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Old 03-22-2013, 11:31 AM   #1
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front LCA, UCA replacement advice

I should be getting new metalcloak front LCA's and UCA's on Monday!!

Anybody with experience replacing stock UCA's and LCA's? I have been searching for info, but haven't found much. I seems like the uppers might be tricky because of a metal tab that will spin.

Anybody have any tips and tricks to help out? I sprayed the bolts yesterday with pb blaster, and will do so again every day until I install them.

Thanks!!!

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Old 03-22-2013, 12:02 PM   #2
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I've heard and done, that you want to do one at a time so that you don't mess up your axle angle and that it would be easier when trying to get the new bolt lined up.

Are you talking about the metal tab on the frame side of the UCA, that there to help you tighten the bolt once you get in the spot where a wrench can't reach. And when your taking out the bolt, it should catch the frame and should stop spinning.

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Old 03-22-2013, 01:24 PM   #3
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I think he's talking about the axle end on the uppers. I was able to wedge a small pry bar in to hold them in place, wasn't a big deal.
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Old 03-22-2013, 02:00 PM   #4
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I replaced the uppers earlier this week. Like said, do one at a time. The arms come with included hardware for the frame side, but you'll have to use the stock hardware for the axle side I started with the passenger side upper and removed the frame side first. the axle side can be a PITA to get the bolt out and the axle may move a little when you finally release it. When you put the new arm on, get some masking tape and hold the nut and washer on the socket so you don't drop them in the frame.


You may need to use a jack to jack the axle on the track bar lower mount to get the axle side bracket hole to line up. Driver side seemed to go on easier for some reason. Took me 1.5hrs on a lift with air tools to do the uppers.


I was a bit concerned when bolting the axle side cause the stock hardware had a tab used to stop the bolt from spinning when tightening. It worked ok though even though the tab didn't look like it would hold tension on the bolt it did and torqued up fine. If I had known, I probably would have replaced the the stock hardware with some grade 8 bolts/nuts.
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Old 03-22-2013, 02:51 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthetj03 View Post
I replaced the uppers earlier this week. Like said, do one at a time. The arms come with included hardware for the frame side, but you'll have to use the stock hardware for the axle side I started with the passenger side upper and removed the frame side first. the axle side can be a PITA to get the bolt out and the axle may move a little when you finally release it. When you put the new arm on, get some masking tape and hold the nut and washer on the socket so you don't drop them in the frame.

You may need to use a jack to jack the axle on the track bar lower mount to get the axle side bracket hole to line up. Driver side seemed to go on easier for some reason. Took me 1.5hrs on a lift with air tools to do the uppers.

I was a bit concerned when bolting the axle side cause the stock hardware had a tab used to stop the bolt from spinning when tightening. It worked ok though even though the tab didn't look like it would hold tension on the bolt it did and torqued up fine. If I had known, I probably would have replaced the the stock hardware with some grade 8 bolts/nuts.
That helps a lot. Thank you. I don't have air tools to use, so I feel this will be a pita to do. Oh well, it will be worth it!
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Old 03-22-2013, 04:00 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by griffin84184 View Post
That helps a lot. Thank you. I don't have air tools to use, so I feel this will be a pita to do. Oh well, it will be worth it!
You're welcome. Don't know if you have a lift or not, but if you do, adjust your new uppers in just a hair shorter than the stock length so you can gain a little caster back. The improvement in handling will stagger you! I went 1/16" shorter than stock. I have a 2.5" lift.
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Old 03-22-2013, 05:59 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthetj03 View Post

You're welcome. Don't know if you have a lift or not, but if you do, adjust your new uppers in just a hair shorter than the stock length so you can gain a little caster back. The improvement in handling will stagger you! I went 1/16" shorter than stock. I have a 2.5" lift.
I do have a lift, ~4" from p.o. my plan was to install uppers and lowers at factory length, then go to my 4x4 shop and gave them set my alignment
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Old 03-23-2013, 12:14 AM   #8
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As far as ease of installation, does it matter if you do lowers first or uppers first?

What about frame side first or axle side first?

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