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Ftront tire shake / balance

4K views 16 replies 9 participants last post by  Clifford.The.Big.Red.Jeep 
#1 ·
2005 LJ Rubicon.
Lifted 5 inches. JKS track bar, Currie strg linkage. JKS control arms. OME strg stabalizer
With Goodyear 35x1250x15 MTR's W/ Kevlar and with Maxxis Creepy Crawlers 37x1250 x15.
I get front tire shake at 50 mph +/- 3 mph. I've had both sets of tires balanced multiple times by multiple tire shops. One shop suggested putting Dyna Beads in the tires instead of balancing them. Ball joints and all front end was replaced 18 mo. / 2000 miles ago. Nothing helps.
Any and all help and suggestions are appreciated.
 
#2 ·
I had balance issues with my tires as well, 3 different tire shops including 4wheel parts in Denver couldn't get them to balance. I put tyre beads in them and pulked the wheel weights off and it has solved the issue. I used 4oz in each tire initially, still had a slight vibration so i added an additional 4oz. And the vibrations are now gone. There is also a gel substance that works as a balancer and a puncture sealer that will fill up to a 1/4" hole if you don't like the idea of beads
 
#4 ·
Alignment, control arm bushings?
I've been running Centramatic Balancers for about a year. Currently running Trail Ready Beadlocks and 315/75/16 and have NOT balanced individual wheels since I've stared running them...no vibrations whatsoever!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ullnFQD4F1I - Video Tube for YouTube - iPhone/iPad
 
#5 ·
With Tyre Beads did you have to use a special valve core??
Would the liquid work with having to air down to offroad??
The Centramatic balancers only have 4 oz. of weight in the ring and I don't think that's enough weight for the 37s.
The suggestions are appreciated.
 
#6 ·
With Tyre Beads did you have to use a special valve core??
Would the liquid work with having to air down to offroad??
The Centramatic balancers only have 4 oz. of weight in the ring and I don't think that's enough weight for the 37s.
The suggestions are appreciated.
You don't have to use a special valve core, although they do sell a filtered core for 99 cents. From my understanding the the gell substance works just as well when aured down, it's just a huge mess when changing a tire. My concern with the gell was that the website showed a 31x10.50x15 tire would require 21 oz to properly balance. That seemed excessive to me, although the additional puncture resistance would be a good trade off
 
#7 ·
I run 35" kevlar MT/Rs and they balance perfectly if the shop knows what they're doing and will spend the time to get them right. I have had to return to a tire shop twice in one day before they finally figured out I wasn't going to accept a mediocre balance and they finally spent the time to get it right the third time.

If they can't get them balanced, I'd suspect a wheel that isn't running true which is common with steel wheels which dent and bend far more easily than aluminum wheels do. I had nothing but trouble with my steel wheels during a short two year run with them, I went back to aluminum which don't have that problem.
 
#8 ·
Jerry, the 35s were on steel rims, although I had them bal. twice by a competent tire store mgr. once by a truck tire store and once by Grand tire in Moab. The result was the same at all of them. The 37 CRs are on Raceline beadlocks. They have been balanced twice at a truck tire store, once by the mgr. I haven't been as lucky as you to have somebody get them right.

I'm not interested in the gel.

I would like to know peoples opinion of the tire beads.
I do know the beads come in 2 sizes. The smaller requires the filtered valve core.
What about using plastic bee bees??
How many oz. should I use in the 37s??
 
#11 ·
I use the small Dynabeads that can be installed through the tire stem. I've never had a problem with regular unfiltered cores. Ironically, I did have a problem with the special filtered cores I bought from Dynabeads when I first began using their product for balancing. I found the filtered models tended to stick open, which is what they were designed to prevent. So, I installed the regular cores and no problems at all.
 
#17 ·
i had this problem as well. The Person who added my 4in suspension lift, drilled a hole in my track bar, to align it with the orginal hole because whenever you lift it, your track bar no longer lines up (9/10 mechanics do it this way) anyways, the bolt attaching the 2 was slowly coming out, causing that shake. Went and got new track bars for front and rear, plus i also go a new steering stabilizer, and havent had any problems since. Maybe you should look into upgrading your trackbars, stabilizers or upgrading to a better axle?

sorry i just read your post again, seems that you already have upgraded ur trackbar etc. I would think its your axles because your running 35s, which keep in mind are very heavy. I would try a stronger axle and try regearing.
 
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