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Old 02-25-2012, 09:31 PM   #1
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Future Lift

Im planning all im doing before i actually do it. I wanna go big. Theres no reason not to. Ive always wanted a lifted jeep. I was thinking a 6 inch suspension lift with a 1 to 2 inch body lift. I dont know much about wranglers and lift so any input, concerns, questions? Itll be my DD and weekend wheeler. With prrtty much all terrain from deep mud to water to rock crawling.

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Old 02-25-2012, 10:01 PM   #2
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That's a lot of lift, you going to need a lot of extra stuff to run it, what size tires you want to run

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Old 02-25-2012, 10:11 PM   #3
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wow I hope you have some serious cash in hand to basically rebuild that Jeep to compensate for that much lift and tires to fit and its going to be an extremely high center of gravity rig thats what you don't want in all honesty.
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Old 02-25-2012, 10:18 PM   #4
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Old 02-26-2012, 01:21 AM   #5
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Theres no reason not to.
I could think of quite a few? Poor on road handling due to higher center of gravity, driveline issues due to severe driveshaft angle, harder to get in and out, large expense... the list goes on

Granted these would be considered "necessary evils" for people wanting to run 35-37" tires... but I dont know that the "do it just for the heck of it" attitude is a great route to go
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:31 AM   #6
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You got a couple options but ultimately you are going to want to know what size meats you want to run. An at what wheel speed you are going to need to power through whatever you are building it for. I will tell you the same set-up wont necessarily work with say crawling, as it will with open mud bogs, or just casual trail use. Most folks with Jeeps enjoy the crawling, go anywhere aspect of the Jeep so they gear down as low as possible with the beefiest parts imaginable. Where i live ..there is no rocks...nor anything resembling a hill really...but i got swamps, everglades, and a whole lot of mud. I prefer a bit higher gearing for higher wheel speed in the lower tranny gears. Which requires a lil more umph from the engine so to speak. I was clearing 38's with 7" of lift easily(4"susp, 3"body), but a lot of folks don't like body lifts and good for them. Personally it doesn't bother me, and i run diamond plate across the gaps to dress it up. You could go with a 6" long arm...and a 1 or 2" body lift, but you talking quite a bit more money in that set up. Brake, steering, upgrades at your discretion, but common sense goes a long way. Axles are another obstacle, but i usually just replace and upgrade when i break mine. The D44 is a stout axle and the D30 lasted amazingly long considering what i did to it. Only problem i ran into was after coming out the end of a drag with too much speed the front end caught a lot of air and came down hard turning the upper control arms into pretzels, literally. But was an easy fix. You'll find a lot of conservative "do it right" attitudes on forums, mainly cuz most rednecks aren't smart nuff to find the internet lol. Do the research, learn the "right way", but don't be afraid to experiment. Life would be boring if we all dropped our Jeeps into a cookie cutter mold and built them perfectly the way we aught too. Shoot it the juice, and see what shakes loose :P
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:28 PM   #7
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i live in Baltimore, MD. i have pretty much every terrain you could want fairly close by. im going to research a lot and then research some more. and then ask questions. and then debate. and then decide. lol. im not going to guess with anything. do it right the first time, not slap some shit together and pray. im trying to find a sahara or a sport with a dana 44.
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:05 PM   #8
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i live in Baltimore, MD. i have pretty much every terrain you could want fairly close by. im going to research a lot and then research some more. and then ask questions. and then debate. and then decide. lol. im not going to guess with anything. do it right the first time, not slap some shit together and pray. im trying to find a sahara or a sport with a dana 44.
Illegally. There is nowhere legal to wheel here in MD. Well, anywhere close to the city. Especially around Baltimore. Expect issues from the local authorities.
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Old 02-27-2012, 09:37 AM   #9
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theres a few secret places around Edgemere. as well as my muddy shore property in Dorchester. im not afraid of travel either.
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Old 02-27-2012, 09:59 AM   #10
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You don't even need (and in many cases, want) half that much to easily clear 35's with plenty of up travel. If you wheel, you care about COG. If all you want to do is look big and bad (it doesn't look so bad to those in the know) then lift it to the sky.
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Old 02-27-2012, 01:23 PM   #11
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i plan to be around the knowledgeable. whats an option to clear 33s to 36s?
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Old 02-27-2012, 03:36 PM   #12
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33's, 3" suspension and 1.25" body. The less expensive way to run 33's easily.

35's, 4" suspension and 1.25 body. Getting into 4"/35's look really hard at steering, brake, driveshaft, sye, gearing, axle, etc. upgrades... going to be much more expensive.


You could do 3" with 1.25BL and fender modifications to run 35's. Much cheaper alternative that's still respectable.. would still want gearing/axles..
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Old 02-27-2012, 03:44 PM   #13
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You could do 3" with 1.25BL and fender modifications to run 35's. Much cheaper alternative that's still respectable.. would still want gearing/axles..
I assure you, there's nothing cheap about properly and reliably running 35's regardless of suspension height.
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Old 02-28-2012, 07:05 AM   #14
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so my jeep fanatic friend has a sport with a dana 44 and he has 37" tires.with a 6.5" suspension lift. he also has a 3" body lift at home hes putting on in warmer weather. he says his COG is fine he just has to take turns slower. i mean, i dont even drive my XJ like nascar so i wont when i have a lifted TJ. he also has 4.10 gears.
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Old 02-28-2012, 07:33 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by alecshirey View Post
so my jeep fanatic friend has a sport with a dana 44 and he has 37" tires.with a 6.5" suspension lift. he also has a 3" body lift at home hes putting on in warmer weather. he says his COG is fine he just has to take turns slower. i mean, i dont even drive my XJ like nascar so i wont when i have a lifted TJ. he also has 4.10 gears.
Because D44's on 37's with 10" of lift (3" of it being a body lift) and 4.10 gears is the right way to do it? Let me guess--stock steering and belly pan, as well?

Listen to who you want man. But when you get around to looking at some well-built rigs on here and other forums, you won't see ONE that's sitting even close to that tall and you'll see NONE using a 3" body lift....and that's just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to running 37's.
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Old 02-28-2012, 07:38 AM   #16
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i never said i was listening solely to him. as i said earlier in my thread, i am researching everything from multiple sources (i.e. him, this forum, offroad suppliers, and online sites) before i make any decisions. for example i just learned i want a short arm lift kit because you have to cut the frame for long arm lifts.
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Old 02-28-2012, 08:12 AM   #17
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for example i just learned i want a short arm lift kit because you have to cut the frame for long arm lifts.
Now I'd recommend using some common sense and quit listening to sources that give you blanket statements like that. I run short arms in a somewhat unique fashion and have cut and welded to my frame.

Arm length and "cutting the frame" have nothing to do with each other. There are bolt on long arm kits (not that I would recommend them) that don't require any cutting or welding.

If you're after maximized performance those are two things you won't be able to escape so if it scares you, I recommend getting over it.
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Old 02-28-2012, 09:40 AM   #18
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it doesnt scare me. its that in the state of maryland you cant resell something with a cut frame. it wont pass inspection.
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Old 02-28-2012, 09:49 AM   #19
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What are the definitions of "cut frame" in MD? I know several MD residents with outboarded shock mounts and modified link mounts that have had no issues with inspection.
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Old 02-28-2012, 10:32 AM   #20
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there is no set definition of 'cut frame '. i think its more of an endangered or modified frame.
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Old 02-28-2012, 10:42 AM   #21
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So you're talking 8" of lift?? You'll need dual shocks at each corner.





LOL! I was actually only half joking though..
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Old 02-28-2012, 10:49 AM   #22
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there is no set definition of 'cut frame '. i think its more of an endangered or modified frame.
How astute do you really think the inspectors are? There are PLENTY of modified rigs out there that have no issues.
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Old 02-28-2012, 11:10 AM   #23
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I'm running a 6" long arm and 37's. 538 gears.

40's would fit no problem.

Cog is no problem. I go everywhere easier than anyone else I wheel with.

I don't think additional body lift would be necessary unles you wanted to run 42 or bigger tire.
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Old 02-28-2012, 11:13 AM   #24
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Sorry I just realized I was in the TJ forum. So I don't have anything to share with you from experience.
Good luck.
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Old 02-28-2012, 01:11 PM   #25
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is your jeep street legal? it looks like it is...
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Old 02-28-2012, 01:21 PM   #26
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is your jeep street legal? it looks like it is...
He's also got a JK and not a TJ

you can run 35's on a JK with 3" lift whereas you need 5" lift for a TJ...

As the others have said...

To run everything "right" as you've stated, you're going to be throwing like 10k easy into doing this...
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Old 02-28-2012, 01:25 PM   #27
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if 10k is what it takes to do it right, then so be it. but itll be my DD too. i have to do it right. i don't wanna half ass anything.
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Old 02-28-2012, 02:17 PM   #28
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is your jeep street legal? it looks like it is...
Yes. Tinted windows and no mud flaps could get pulled over in ca. But so far so good
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Old 02-28-2012, 02:18 PM   #29
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He's also got a JK and not a TJ

you can run 35's on a JK with 3" lift whereas you need 5" lift for a TJ...

As the others have said...

To run everything "right" as you've stated, you're going to be throwing like 10k easy into doing this...
To do it right is not cheap. For surr
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Old 02-28-2012, 02:35 PM   #30
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you can run 35's on a JK with 3" lift whereas you need 5" lift for a TJ...
That's very false.
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Originally Posted by Owen_TJ View Post
To run everything "right" as you've stated, you're going to be throwing like 10k easy into doing this...
That's pretty true. I'm not gonna tell him how to spend his money or what he needs to spend his money on. But that's a fairly accurate number.
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if 10k is what it takes to do it right, then so be it. but itll be my DD too. i have to do it right. i don't wanna half ass anything.
You've got $10k to throw into it right now? Before committing such an amount, perhaps you should think about what you really want out of this rig and really want to do with it.

Here's my build thread--I think it could help you out quite a bit: Float Test Build - JeepForum.com

I haven't kept track of all the dollars and hours spent, but I've probably got about $15k in it, not including the price of the vehicle. It's stupid reliable, stupid durable, and can be DD'd every day of the week, wheeled on the toughest trails I can find on the weekends, and driven to work the following day. That's what I built it to do and it's still not done. It's a long read but there's a ton of good tech in there. The condensed version is in the build section here.

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