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Old 01-26-2011, 04:22 PM   #1
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Gear oil for rear Rubi D44

Should I buy the Mopar gear oil or Royal Purple gear oil? Is RP a fab now or just that great of a product.

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Old 01-26-2011, 04:42 PM   #2
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royal purple i use it in my jeeps diffs. works great so far

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Old 01-26-2011, 04:51 PM   #3
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OMG...the local dealership quoted me $30/qt of 75w-140 and $8 for the additive. I will need 3 quarts plus the additive. That is insane!
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Old 01-26-2011, 04:55 PM   #4
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We use oreillys basic gear oil and one bottle of friction additive
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Old 01-26-2011, 05:03 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oIIIIIIo
Should I buy the Mopar gear oil or Royal Purple gear oil? Is RP a fab now or just that great of a product.
Royal purple is that damn good!! There one and only plant is right down the road from me and the stuff is just awesome!!
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Old 01-26-2011, 05:10 PM   #6
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Do I need to add friction modifier with Royal purple 75w-140 lube oil? I have an '05 Rubicon rear axle.
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Old 01-26-2011, 05:12 PM   #7
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I don't think so!! Royal purple is full synthetic and I believe has everything already in it for what you need!!
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Old 01-26-2011, 05:23 PM   #8
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like i said it works great but i never said it was cheap. worth the price though
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Old 01-26-2011, 07:46 PM   #9
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Do I need to add friction modifier with Royal purple 75w-140 lube oil? I have an '05 Rubicon rear axle.
The quick answer is no! The left over bottle I have states that it has a limited-slip modifier in it. But, since your Rubicon axle does'nt use clutch packs
you'll be good to go.
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Old 01-26-2011, 07:54 PM   #10
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Like Zeep said don't use a friction modifier in your Rubicon axles.
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Old 01-26-2011, 08:06 PM   #11
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It doesn't matter if the gear lube you use has a friction modifier or not. Neither Rubicon axle needs the friction modifier additive but its presence will in no way cause any problem. The friction modifier additive is 100% compatible with all axle designs which is why the vast majority of gear lubes come with a friction modifier additive for just in case the axle it is going into has a clutch-based limited slip differential.

That said, the Rubicon axle (and any Wrangler axle) will be fine with either a conventional or a synthetic gear lube. Personally, I run Torco 85W-140 in my Rubicon axles which is an extremely high quality conventional gear lube. It's the opinion of a lot of axle manufacturers like Currie that the ring & pinion gears run cooler when bathed by a conventional gear lube than they do with a synthetic. Hard to believe, yes, but their tests confirmed it.

But, again, using a gear lube in the Rubicon's or any Wrangler's axles that already contains a friction modifier additive is fine and will cause no issues whatsoever.
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Old 01-27-2011, 12:22 PM   #12
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Thanks for all the good advice as always.
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Old 01-29-2011, 01:20 AM   #13
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It doesn't matter if the gear lube you use has a friction modifier or not. Neither Rubicon axle needs the friction modifier additive but its presence will in no way cause any problem. The friction modifier additive is 100% compatible with all axle designs which is why the vast majority of gear lubes come with a friction modifier additive for just in case the axle it is going into has a clutch-based limited slip differential.

That said, the Rubicon axle (and any Wrangler axle) will be fine with either a conventional or a synthetic gear lube. Personally, I run Torco 85W-140 in my Rubicon axles which is an extremely high quality conventional gear lube. It's the opinion of a lot of axle manufacturers like Currie that the ring & pinion gears run cooler when bathed by a conventional gear lube than they do with a synthetic. Hard to believe, yes, but their tests confirmed it.

But, again, using a gear lube in the Rubicon's or any Wrangler's axles that already contains a friction modifier additive is fine and will cause no issues whatsoever.
With that said the rear axle in a rubicon has a limited slip built into the locker wouldnt it have to have the friction modifier?
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Old 01-29-2011, 01:51 AM   #14
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With that said the rear axle in a rubicon has a limited slip built into the locker wouldnt it have to have the friction modifier?
It's not a clutch type LSD. It uses worm gears instead, so no need for a friction modifier.
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Old 01-29-2011, 12:51 PM   #15
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ok i wasnt sure i just knew it had a lsd in it thanks.
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Old 01-29-2011, 05:26 PM   #16
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Friction modifier : Non Friction modifier: Royal Purple vs O Reilly's Dinosaur gear oil.

Can anybody report first hand a differential failure that could be DIRECTLY attributed to the brand of gear oil in it? I don't think so.

I believe that so long as you use the proper lube (viscosity SAE rating etc..) That the life span of one over the other is unable to be differentiated.

I bet that 99% of all lube related failures coud be determined to be caused by:

1) LACK of lube
2) Contaminated lube.
3) Wrong viscosity lube
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Old 01-29-2011, 05:35 PM   #17
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Friction modifier : Non Friction modifier: Royal Purple vs O Reilly's Dinosaur gear oil.

Can anybody report first hand a differential failure that could be DIRECTLY attributed to the brand of gear oil in it? I don't think so.
I essentially agree 100% with you. But one caveat... after an excessive number of unexplained ring & pinion gear failures in their extreme-duty axles, Currie finally isolated the cause down to the use of synthetic gear lubes that some of their customers used to replace the factory installed conventional gear lube. It shocked everyone. Once Currie changed their warranty requirement to require (!) the use of conventional gear lubes and that the warranty would be voided with the use of a synthetic gear lube, their failure rate went way back down to the normal rare failure. Their tests eventually found that synthetic gear lubes do run cooler but for a TOTALLY unexpected reason... that synthetic gear lubes don't "sink" (extract) the heat from the ring & pinion gears as well as conventional gear lubes do. They had to build a special axle so the heat at the ring & pinion gears could be measured directly to confirm what their other tests were indicating. That's why an IR gun pointed at a differential housing indicates the housing is cooler running synthetic lube, because the synthetic isn't extracting the heat out of the R&P gears as well as a conventional gear lube does. That was a long-unexplained mystery that was finally solved. Again, it totally surprised everyone in the aftermarket axle industry. Other aftermarket offroad axle manufacturers besides Currie have also started requring the use of conventional gear lubes in their axles to maintain the warranty.
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Old 01-29-2011, 05:47 PM   #18
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Is it going to hurt swapping my 75-140 synthetic out for the conventional 80-90? I asked the dealer once and they said it wouldn't hurt anything to switch back. Just want others thoughts.
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Old 01-29-2011, 06:37 PM   #19
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Dad Blame Jerry Bransford blows my theory

LOL.... Yes that really does make sense Jerry! I cave to the superior knowledge of axle trivia! So there really IS a case of diff failure related to the use of a specific oil (not totally a brand thing).

I bet that was a tough one to prove at first but it completely jives with logic.

All friction creating devices have to have the ability to dissipate heat.

I wonder what the engineering explanation is for Synthetic NOT sinking as opposed to Dino oil sinking better: Bet your next 12 pack that the synthetic oil gurus figure what to add pronto!
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Old 01-29-2011, 06:42 PM   #20
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I just completed the rear diff lube change. It took 3.25 quarts of Royal Purple lube 75w-140 gear lube. Man that is a lot. I have the SOLID diff cover and took more lube than stock.

Thank you all for your help.
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Old 01-29-2011, 09:33 PM   #21
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Ok Jerry I have a question? I have a 05' tj with D35 rear and D30 front what lube should I go with and what weight? I live in Houston Texas! Also what tranny fluid and t-case fluid and weight I should use? Tranny is a 6spd manny. Haha lol
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Old 03-01-2011, 02:00 PM   #22
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I am in houston also.. after reading many posts about syn vs dino in the gears.. i think i will just roll some 80w90 Lucas oil in my D30 and D44 with a friction modifier. I wanted to use mobil 1 as its in our subaru.. but i guess not in the TJ. Got RP in the diesel axle and have alot of it around so it tears me up that its not the best to use on the TJ.. now i gota go buy more stuff...
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Old 03-01-2011, 02:48 PM   #23
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I have a 04 LJ with a Dana 44 rear (duhh) want to use royal purple as well but oem uses 80-90 would it b better if I use 75-90 or 70-140? Only two RP oils I find in stores!
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Old 03-01-2011, 03:05 PM   #24
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I just completed the rear diff lube change. It took 3.25 quarts of Royal Purple lube 75w-140 gear lube. Man that is a lot. I have the SOLID diff cover and took more lube than stock.

Thank you all for your help.
That sounds like a lot of fluid in there . . . are you sure you didn't over fill it? I only put 3L in the D60 on my E350 van. Some of the aftermarket covers come with raised fill holes to allow for the rotation of the diff depending on your set up, and if filled to the point that fluid comes out the fill hole, it may be too full and end up ruining your seals.
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Old 03-01-2011, 09:46 PM   #25
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That sounds like a lot of fluid in there . . . are you sure you didn't over fill it? I only put 3L in the D60 on my E350 van. Some of the aftermarket covers come with raised fill holes to allow for the rotation of the diff depending on your set up, and if filled to the point that fluid comes out the fill hole, it may be too full and end up ruining your seals.

You're probably right..it is coming out of the vent hose from my axle. Should I drain some out?
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Old 03-01-2011, 11:47 PM   #26
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You're probably right..it is coming out of the vent hose from my axle. Should I drain some out?
Yes, differentially
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Old 03-02-2011, 09:37 AM   #27
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You're probably right..it is coming out of the vent hose from my axle. Should I drain some out?
Sounds like it . . . do it quick and maybe you'll get lucky if it hasn't gone past your seals . . . otherwise you'll have a bigger job ahead of you. Do some checking/searching . . . I can't recall right now but there is a point on the axle tube that the fluid level shouldn't go past . . . I recall using a popsicle stick to see where the fluid was at on mine as I too have a raised fill hole on my Riddler cover. Good luck!
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Old 10-23-2013, 12:56 AM   #28
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WOW, just read this after I changed the Diffs using Red Line. Used this product in hot rods and dragsters for years with no problems. Maybe my off road jeeping, mostly under 25mph won't heat up the gears much and it may not matter..
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Old 10-23-2013, 01:56 AM   #29
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I just completed the rear diff lube change. It took 3.25 quarts of Royal Purple lube 75w-140 gear lube. Man that is a lot. I have the SOLID diff cover and took more lube than stock.

Thank you all for your help.
Stock D 44 capacity is 1.9L, with a Solid diff cover, the capacity is only increased to 2.2L. You definitely overfilled. I would just undo the fill plug and let is drain until it stops and you should be good.
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:20 AM   #30
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Stock D 44 capacity is 1.9L, with a Solid diff cover, the capacity is only increased to 2.2L. You definitely overfilled. I would just undo the fill plug and let is drain until it stops and you should be good.
Back from the dead. My bet is he already took care of it, the post you responded to was 2 1/2 years old.

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