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Old 03-28-2008, 05:37 PM   #1
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Question Getting from stock to 35s the right way.

Ok, so I have a stock 98 wrangler sport. I would like to put 35" tires on it for mild/medium off-road occasions. So I will need some sort of SL kit. I have heard that while you can put 35s on a 4" lift, you should really have 6". Does anyone have any recommendation (size/brand/model/etc.)? Anything to stay away from? I've been looking on quadratech and they have kits ranging from $500 - $3000 to get to 35s. I decided against the long arm route due to cost. I would like something that rides on road well... or at least doesn't make the ride worse... if possible. Doing further research I than came across something that said my rear dana 35s would be too weak to use with 35" tires and that I should get a super 35 kit. How needed is this for moderate off-road use? And than there is the issue of gear ratios? Something about 4.88??? If you change gear ratios in the rear do you also have to change gear ratios in the front? And are the front dana 30s ok with 35" tires? Phew...

I got more questions, but I'll stop there.

Thanks for any advice.

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Old 03-28-2008, 06:24 PM   #2
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what are you looking to spend on a lift? Ive heard and seen very good things about Rock Krawler's 4" lift and Rubicon Express' 4.5" super flex kit. Both are very sturdy, reliable kits. As for your D35, it is most likely too weak. Some people can run 35s on a D35 (they are just lucky ), but for most they are too weak. You should be ok with your D30 up front, espically if it is a HP D30. And for gears, do you have a 4cyl or an I6...4cyl you should run at least 4.88s with 35s. With an I6 4.88s are ideal for 35s

just my .02

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Old 03-28-2008, 06:42 PM   #3
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just so you know with either of those ^^^ you could get either 1" spacers front and rear..a 1" BL..or both to help properly clear your 35s
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Old 03-28-2008, 07:46 PM   #4
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- 35's
- 4.56's for I6 or 4.88's for 4cyl
- Super 35 with ARB
- D30 with ARB is fine
- 5.5 Rubicon Express Long Arm
- SYE

Done. That will serve you well.

Quadratec is good, but typically pricey. I use them to find part numbers and then surf around to find the deals.
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Old 03-28-2008, 08:18 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rketr View Post
- 35's
- 4.56's for I6 or 4.88's for 4cyl
- Super 35 with ARB
- D30 with ARB is fine
- 5.5 Rubicon Express Long Arm
- SYE

Done. That will serve you well.

Quadratec is good, but typically pricey. I use them to find part numbers and then surf around to find the deals.
Wow. I'm going to disagree with 80% of what you just said.

4.88s for 35s with the I6. 35s shouldn't put behind a 4 cylinder.

5.5 coils are too tall for 35s. They are almost too tall for 40s. RE3.5s with a 1.25" BL is about perfect to fit any 35" tire you can find.

Quadratec is over priced on everything. There are better companies to buy from that will cater to your personal vehicle until the last bolt is tight and you climb over your first rock.

I, personally, wouldn't put 35s on a Dana 35 without the super 35 kit. I wouldn't waste the money either way on a dana 35. There are tons of different ways to clear 35s on your jeep. You are already in the 5-6k dollar range depending on which options you go with to do it properly.
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Old 03-28-2008, 08:31 PM   #6
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personally, i hate tires that are stuffed, mr.cliffords recommendation is a little close imo, will clear but might look stuffy, i could be wrong. personally don't like body lift either, i would rather do all suspension. since we're obviously not talking about body modification, 35's need some room even under moderate off road use.i think 5.5 is a good fit.
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Old 03-28-2008, 08:36 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by jpdocdave View Post
personally, i hate tires that are stuffed, mr.cliffords recommendation is a little close imo, will clear but might look stuffy, i could be wrong. personally don't like body lift either, i would rather do all suspension. since we're obviously not talking about body modification, 35's need some room even under moderate off road use.i think 5.5 is a good fit.
Stuffed how? How about I back up my statement with some facts?

35s. 3" coils and 1.25" body lift.



Yes. It works.



Tell me how the negatives of a body lift out weigh the positives.
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Old 03-28-2008, 09:19 PM   #8
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You can also look at running tube fenders. That will give you more clearance for the wheels.

The D35 is too weak but a cheaper option would be to look at getting a Ford 8.8. I got one for $75 and it has 31 spline axles so it hold 35's easy. Nothing wrong with body lifts, I just didn't use one.

My lift is a Rubicon Express 3.5 but with the 4.5 springs and tube fenders I could easily fit 35's, which is my plan for the future.

And as stated by Mr. C run 4.88's and yes, you will have to change the rear AND front gears. Only if you plan on going into 4WD anytime.

The LA 5.5 would look good with 35 but it will be really tall. I like that look however.



3.5 RE w/ 33's
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Old 03-28-2008, 09:22 PM   #9
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Stuffed how? How about I back up my statement with some facts?

35s. 3" coils and 1.25" body lift.



Yes. It works.



Tell me how the negatives of a body lift out weigh the positives.
looks good to me, i've seen yj's w/ 4" newer lifts, and 35's that just didn't look good. i can't go back to see pic now, is everything stock on the body, besides lift stated?
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Old 03-28-2008, 09:23 PM   #10
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how wide are those 35's?
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Old 03-28-2008, 09:33 PM   #11
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Contact Jason at 4x4Groupbuy on his "Ultimate" lift kits. The come with everything, lift, wheels, tires. They might not have a built kit on the site like you want(all are long arms), but if you contact him, I'm sure he can work out some kind of deal for you.

But I'm heading in the same direction this summer hopefully. I have an RE 3.5 lift and plan on getting a 1" BL and new rear axle to end up running 35's. I've seen a number of people go this way and it works really well.
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Old 03-29-2008, 12:57 AM   #12
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3.5" RE ( in real over 4.25") and 1.25" BL wouldn´t look stuffed IMO.
I have 4.5" lift and 2" BL and it looks good.
pics:

http://runicon.de/viewer.php?albid=5...e=3&imgid=4175
http://runicon.de/viewer.php?albid=5...e=3&imgid=4143
http://runicon.de/viewer.php?albid=5...e=3&imgid=4041
http://runicon.de/viewer.php?albid=5...e=3&imgid=4042







wow, that TJ flexes good.
is that with the N66L/N67L long OME shocks?
i hope that my flex will be like this when i installed that longer shocks.
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Old 03-29-2008, 01:41 AM   #13
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going off what these guys said, you should definently get something stronger than a D35. A ford 8.8 rear is very strong, there are tons of them out there and even if you dont have good fab skills, taking it somewhere to get the mounts put on properly will still probably be less than buying a super 35 kit...which still may break with 35s on it
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Old 03-29-2008, 02:30 AM   #14
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5.5 coils are too tall for 35s. They are almost too tall for 40s.
what!? i have 6" coils with 3" pucks and run 37" tires. no way 5.5" coils are too tall for 40's !


just curious, do your tires rub inside your fenders at all ?

BTW... nice looking rig!!
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Old 03-29-2008, 08:53 AM   #15
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I have I6, 3 speed auto with the DANA 35 and the 30 with Superior Axle kits with ARB lockers both front and rear with 4.88 with 35" x 12.50 x 15" tires and yes I have been very lucky with this set up, but I don't do any major rock crawling eaither, and as far a lift goes, Currie 4" with a 1" body lift and a currie antirock swaybar, SYI and new drive shaft, and when I put my winch and bumper I added a 3/4 spring spacer up front for the extra weight it sag just a bit,
I'm happy with this set up for
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Old 03-29-2008, 09:57 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpdocdave View Post
how wide are those 35's?
35x13.50x15 Toyo Open Country MTs

Quote:
Originally Posted by nicolas-eric View Post
wow, that TJ flexes good.
is that with the N66L/N67L long OME shocks?
i hope that my flex will be like this when i installed that longer shocks.
We did install the long travel shocks. The regular OMEs are too short for that amount of lift. Your jeep should ride better and perform better off road with the amount of lift you are running.

Quote:
Originally Posted by spanky View Post
what!? i have 6" coils with 3" pucks and run 37" tires. no way 5.5" coils are too tall for 40's !
RE 5.5s in the front with a 1.25" JKS body lift and 40" MT/Rs.



This is RE3.5s with 1.25" JKS body lift and 37" Trxus MTs




Quote:
Originally Posted by spanky View Post
just curious, do your tires rub inside your fenders at all ?BTW... nice looking rig!!
Thanks! There is no rubbing on anything. That's what bumpstops are for.
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Old 03-29-2008, 10:09 AM   #17
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Definitely 4.88 not 4.56 for 35" tires. A Super 35 kit with a Detroit Locker or ARB Air Locker is fine for 35" tires and it will hold up to some serious trail use too. I know guys that run some of the toughest trails in the US at Johnson Valley California with a Super 35 upgrade.

Yes the front Dana 30 will hold up to 35" tires and being locked, though alloy axleshafts are a good upgrade if you plan on really pushing it hard. I broke one front axleshaft (actually the axleshaft just couldn't hang onto the u-joint so it spun out and busted up the u-joint ears) but it's been great for years after installing Warn's chromolly axleshafts.

Steering-wise, you'll need to upgrade your tie rod and drag link for 35" tires. Currie's heavy-duty steering kit is very beefy and more than up to the task. Don't wait too long to do this after installing 35" tires, that tie-rod you have now is downright skinny and it's not up to the task.

Brakes! 35" tires are MUCH harder to stop and the OE brakes really aren't up to it. I drove mine for a couple years with the OE brakes and 35" tires and I had to drive extra carefully because I knew the brakes were really not good enough for a major emergency stop situation. I ended up with the VANCO Big Brake kit which installs a set of beefed up knuckles and big dual-piston calipers which made a VERY dramatic improvement in braking.

Lift-height wise, my Rubicon Express 4.5" long-arm suspension is perfect for my 35" tires. That said, RE's 4.5" lift height is more like 5.5" in reality so don't think a 4" suspension lift is going to be enough, it won't. Going too high and your center-of-gravity will be too high making the Jeep tip-prone. Depending on the brand of lift you choose, I'd shoot for 5-5.5" of actual lift height, no matter what the advertised lift height is.

And just so you know... if you look at the pics on my website, the last pics from Johnson Valley show my rig with a 1" body lift in addition to the 4.5" Rubicon Express lift so it's actually 1" taller than you'd get with just the 4.5" of suspension lift.

Good luck with your project... and don't forget you'll also need a SYE kit and longer CV driveshaft to counteract the effects on the drivetrain angles caused by such a tall lift.
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Old 03-29-2008, 03:21 PM   #18
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heres mine with what was ordered as a 3.5" but was more of a 5-51/2" with 33's, And yes I had to use adjustable upper ca's as well as a SYE and TW DS[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 03-29-2008, 03:31 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR.CLIFFORD View Post
We did install the long travel shocks. The regular OMEs are too short for that amount of lift. Your jeep should ride better and perform better off road with the amount of lift you are running.
my flx isngt´t really bad with the standard OME shocks, but i hope it will become better with the long travel shocks.

will it really ride better with the new shocks?

my maximum flex:

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Old 03-29-2008, 03:50 PM   #20
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will it really ride better with the new shocks?
depends on how tall you really are. It doesn't look like you are at a risk of maxing out your shocks while just riding around but it should allow you more suspension travel. The ride quality should be the same when you compare the N66/N67 to the N66L/N67L.
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Old 03-29-2008, 04:04 PM   #21
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Stuffed how? How about I back up my statement with some facts?

35s. 3" coils and 1.25" body lift.



Yes. It works.



Tell me how the negatives of a body lift out weigh the positives.
enough said
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Old 03-29-2008, 06:46 PM   #22
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Thanks for all the information, guys. This helps alot... especially with the pictures I can get an idea of what different setups look like. Nice looking rigs btw.
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Old 03-30-2008, 10:51 AM   #23
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4.88s for 35s with the I6. 35s shouldn't put behind a 4 cylinder.
4.88's vs 4.56's are debatable. Would say it depends on how much onroad he'll be driving...

35's behind a 4 cyl? drop 37's if you want. it all comes down to gearing. we have a guy in our club that runs 37's behind his 4cyl (& 7.17 gears) w/ no problems...of course to do 70 he has to run at like 4K rpms's.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MR.CLIFFORD View Post
5.5 coils are too tall for 35s. They are almost too tall for 40s. RE3.5s with a 1.25" BL is about perfect to fit any 35" tire you can find.
You may start off a little high, but when the springs start to settle down 5.5's are perfect for 35's.

First installed:


A year later:



In action:


Quote:
Originally Posted by jpdocdave View Post
personally, i hate tires that are stuffed, mr.cliffords recommendation is a little close imo, will clear but might look stuffy, i could be wrong. personally don't like body lift either, i would rather do all suspension. since we're obviously not talking about body modification, 35's need some room even under moderate off road use.i think 5.5 is a good fit.
x2
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Old 03-30-2008, 11:21 AM   #24
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4.88's vs 4.56's are debatable. Would say it depends on how much onroad he'll be driving...

35's behind a 4 cyl? drop 37's if you want. it all comes down to gearing. we have a guy in our club that runs 37's behind his 4cyl (& 7.17 gears) w/ no problems...of course to do 70 he has to run at like 4K rpms's.




You may start off a little high, but when the springs start to settle down 5.5's are perfect for 35's.

First installed:


A year later:



In action:




x2

i was starting to think i was all alone here. are you runnin 5.5? looks just right to me.
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Old 03-30-2008, 11:30 AM   #25
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4.88's vs 4.56's are debatable. Would say it depends on how much onroad he'll be driving...
As one whose TJ with 4.88 gearing and 35" tires is a daily driver, I certainly wouldn't say it's debatable. I probably have 80-90K miles on that combination and it's ideal, the RPMs on the trail and highway are perfect. I'd hate to have 35" and 4.56, it'd be like when I had 33" tires and 4.10 and I regretted that combo every day I drove it.
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Old 03-30-2008, 01:33 PM   #26
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My build sheet specifies 3.73s on my 05 X...I hated it when new and immediately put 33s on and still could start in 2d and drive all day 2-4-6...pulling 2500 in 6th at 68-70...now with 35s i think it is perfect...no longer start in 2d and 6th is for over 60...I think the X has different transmission gears than others. It does say the X comes with close ratio 6spd. I coudnt imagine my jeep with 4.56 or more...do I really have 3.73? Cannot believe how happy I am going from 215/75s to 35s without changing gears!! should be impossible.
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Old 03-30-2008, 02:09 PM   #27
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Still, it would perform better on and offroad if you regeared to a gear ratio more appropriate to that tire size, like 4.88.
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Old 03-30-2008, 05:30 PM   #28
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Still, it would perform better on and offroad if you regeared to a gear ratio more appropriate to that tire size, like 4.88.
better how?

Maybe better crawling, deffinitely not better on road. Stock, it was at 3000 rpms when driving under the speed limit on interstate. Stock I could start from stop in 3d gear. That was OK since I knew 33 were close behind. I can only assume that is was that way stock in preparation for a lift without gear change....that makes sense to me...not 4.88s. Now I am around 2000 rpms at 60 I think. No idea how bad speed is off...still waiting on new speedo gear.
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Old 03-30-2008, 06:31 PM   #29
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Do what you want, those with experience will tell you what RPMs are appropriate for 35" tires and the 4.0L engine. You do not want to gear a Jeep to cruise at the same RPMs as a car which is geared for different purposes. 2000 RPMs at 60 are too low, the engine is lugging. Just telling you what guys running 35" tires choose for their ratios, even the ratio guides will suggest 4.56-5.13 as optimal all-around ratios for 35" tires.

To me, you're trying to gear to obtain RPMs you're used to seeing with a car... and you're not driving a car now.
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Old 03-30-2008, 06:43 PM   #30
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i live i an area without hills and mountains. for me my 4.56 gears are perfect. i have 2000 rpm at 65 mph and that gives me a good gas mileage.
in the mountains 4.88 would be too low.

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