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Old 06-17-2012, 05:14 PM   #1
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Going for a bigger lift, got a few questions.

I have a 2000 TJ 4cyl. I currently have a 3" body lift on 33's. My goal is 35's with enough clearance for flex and no rubbing. Im thinking about taking off my body lift and putting on a 6" Rough Country X-series lift. Will I be able to get away with a smaller lift than 6"? Maybe a 4" and cut my body lift down to 1"? I'll be doing all the work myself. Im curious to know if there's anything else I need to be aware of such as driveshaft mods, SYE kits, cost estimations, etc.. Any help is greatly appreciated.

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Old 06-17-2012, 05:34 PM   #2
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Ditch the 3" BL....

4" lift and above you will need:
SYE
CV rear shaft
Adjustable rear upper CA's ( I recommend lowers too)
CV style rear trackbar bracket
adj. trackbar front and rear
Longer brakelines
4" coils
shocks

all that just to run your 33's.... ( which should be all you need with a 4 banger)

now... you want 35's....

5.5" -6" lift but going that big, I suggest a long arm kit... high clearance style

HD steering and brake upgrades
regear ( you are gonna need it )


If you have a Dana 35 rear... do a super35 kit (or ditch for the 8.8 or D44)
Dana30... same... chromos ( or ditch it for a D44)

This goes on for options and ugrades... this is a start.. others will chime in I'm sure.
What is your budget.... please give us a clue.....

and one BIG must....

a winning lottery ticket......


Welcome to WF....

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~Todd~ 2004 X 4.0 5 speed---SOLD
4" Lift, 4.56's, 33" Duratracs on M/T Classics
RR SYE, Tatton CV, MML, BL, TT, Dynomax Exhaust
Hella Lighting: Driving, Fogs and H4 E-Codes
NOPE! ... and NEVER will be...
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Old 06-17-2012, 06:01 PM   #3
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In addition to what TnDz said, you'll probably need something to correct you t-case linkage (Advanced Adapter's bracket, Novak system, etc).

Going to 35s is very costly to gain that 1" of clearance under the axles. Just make sure you're prepared to spend a lot of money to get it.

Several people run a low center of gravity (LCoG/LCG) build and fit 35's with about 3.5 total lift. You'll need to adjust your bumpstops and/or modify your fenders/flares to make it work well. Do a search and see if it's something that would work for you.
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Old 06-17-2012, 07:05 PM   #4
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Speaking of LCG builds....You could always do Metal Cloak Overlines, corners and flares with a 3.5" and run 35's as well...

Here is a prime example... my friend Eric's Rubicloak....

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~Todd~ 2004 X 4.0 5 speed---SOLD
4" Lift, 4.56's, 33" Duratracs on M/T Classics
RR SYE, Tatton CV, MML, BL, TT, Dynomax Exhaust
Hella Lighting: Driving, Fogs and H4 E-Codes
NOPE! ... and NEVER will be...
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Old 06-17-2012, 07:27 PM   #5
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The BL will be coming out. I'm leaning more towards the 4" rcx lift with high clearance fenders and some custom mod work if necessary. The rcx comes with almost everything you listed minus a rear adjustable trac bar. I will be re gearing for the 35's and beefing up my axles accordingly. For the time being I am staying with my 33's because they are fairly new. The only things that I am not familiar with are SYE kits and driveshafts. Which brand is the best bang for your buck. Will any old SYE kit do? I know rough country makes one but I'm not sure. And driveshafts, Where to get one and how long it needs to be. I'm trying to stay around $1500 for the lift and components not including axle parts and gears. TnDz, that is almost exactly what I am going for in the above post.
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Old 06-17-2012, 08:10 PM   #6
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I don't think you'll be able to properly run 35s for $1500. You can probably cover the lift components and the SYE/DC driveshaft, but you'll be skipping everything else (brakes, steering, etc).

I wouldn't consider all brands of SYEs the same. Advanced Adapters and JB Conversions get great reviews. Rugged Ridge and other seem to have problems will leaks. Do a search and you'll get a good idea. Tom Woods is highly praised when it comes to driveshafts. Length will obviously vary depending on the final lift and distrance from the t-case to axle. Also, you may want to consider a 1" BL if you ever decide to do a tummy tuck.
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Old 06-17-2012, 08:41 PM   #7
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This will be a step one deal. There will be other steps covering the building of my drivetrain, steering, and brakes. I won't be switching to 35s until the end of next year or later. Just want to get on the right track to run 35s so I won't have to do things twice.
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Old 06-17-2012, 08:55 PM   #8
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Are you going to be doing an engine swap? Is this a DD? Why are you wanting 35s? Knowing what your ultimate goal for your rig will help with part selection. I see a 4 cylinder really straining to turn 35s faster than around town speeds.
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Old 06-17-2012, 08:59 PM   #9
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DD/Weekend trail rig. Don't do much rock crawling, live in south Mississippi, mainly mud and hills. I will be re-gearing for the 35's and beefing up my drivetrain when funds allow it.

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