grande latte with extra coolant in my oil....head gasket replacement - Jeep Wrangler Forum
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Old 01-28-2008, 10:31 AM   #1
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grande latte with extra coolant in my oil....head gasket replacement

ok, dumb title, but it seems many people were correct about my issue (as seen in another thread). the dealership first told me the oil sending unit was bad, then when that wasn't the problem, they told me the oil pump was bad. so i bought a new pump. crawled under yesterday to drain the oil, pull the oil pan, and replace the pump. i watch the oil coming out and sure enough...as many said it would, it looked like a latte/chocolate milk. which i suppose means i have coolant in my oil. which explains where all my coolant is going, and probably what is throwing off my oil pressure gauge.

it has been said that this is generally due to a leaking head gasket.

how do i go about replacing that? what else, if anything else, needs to be replaced at the sametime?
i'm not afraid to try this myself to save some money, but is this something better suited for a shop?

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Old 01-28-2008, 01:02 PM   #2
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it's possible to do, I changed my 84 cj7's head gasket in my driveway during a rain storm......it's not to ungodly hard but it does take time. it took me like 6-7 hours. that was all i changed and the oil & filter. it was a pain in the ass but worth the money i saved......

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Old 01-28-2008, 04:03 PM   #3
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Get yourself a Haynes or Chilton's repair manual at your local car parts shop and read up on "head gasket replacement". It's not that hard if you can read, have some decent tools and are somewhat mechanically inclined. A Jeep shop manual is really nice, but more pricey. Before you re-install the head, locate a machine shop and have them magnaflux it for cracks. If you have over 100k miles, have them tank it (cleaning solution) and replace the valve seals too while they are at it. Fresh coat of paint and a new gasket and you should be OK.

Whatever you do, keep it shutdown until you resolve the issue. You'll kill the motor if you keep driving it that way.

Let us know if you need any further help...

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Old 01-28-2008, 04:21 PM   #4
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I had it done on my Suby just b4 i sold it

Gotta pull the engine so why not do the timing belt and clutch disk too
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Old 01-28-2008, 05:43 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOz View Post
Get yourself a Haynes or Chilton's repair manual at your local car parts shop and read up on "head gasket replacement". It's not that hard if you can read, have some decent tools and are somewhat mechanically inclined. A Jeep shop manual is really nice, but more pricey. Before you re-install the head, locate a machine shop and have them magnaflux it for cracks. If you have over 100k miles, have them tank it (cleaning solution) and replace the valve seals too while they are at it. Fresh coat of paint and a new gasket and you should be OK.

Whatever you do, keep it shutdown until you resolve the issue. You'll kill the motor if you keep driving it that way.

Let us know if you need any further help...

Good luck.
thanks!

i got a copy of a factory service manual so i will be looking that over this evening.

that's the kind of info i was looking for....magnaflux, tank it, etc. the jeep will be down for a while so i would rather get as much 'freshened' up while it's torn apart as possible. i just needed to know of the other things to look into.

guess i'm about to get down and really personal with my jeep's engine.
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Old 01-28-2008, 05:44 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smeghead View Post
Gotta pull the engine so why not do the timing belt and clutch disk too
i hope i'm wrong, but i don't think i will need to pull the engine....??
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Old 01-28-2008, 05:48 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smeghead View Post
I had it done on my Suby just b4 i sold it

Gotta pull the engine so why not do the timing belt and clutch disk too
Why on earth would you need to pull the engine for a head gasket?
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Old 01-28-2008, 07:15 PM   #8
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Oh well thats true this isnt a stupid horizontally opposed japanese wierd thing like my suby was is it? LOL
My bad im still thinking in Subaru mode
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Old 01-28-2008, 08:27 PM   #9
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lol In a subary dont you have to take the engine almost apart to change spark plugs?
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Old 01-28-2008, 10:56 PM   #10
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ya, in a suby maybe, but there is no need to pull the engine for a head gasket replacement.

its actually pretty simple, just a bunch of nuts and bolts, and putting everything back. All good suggestions so far. definatly have it magnafluxed for cracks, since your having issues. not a bad idea to have it cleaned and the valve seals replaced while its out. get a manual, get a standard socket set, a breaker bar, your favorite hammer, and rent a torque wrench.
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Old 01-28-2008, 11:42 PM   #11
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JCS05Rub wouldn't the timing get messed up? I've never done head work on a tj, thats why i'm curious.
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Old 01-29-2008, 12:03 AM   #12
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tj's use a chain, not a belt and if im thinking rite you dont have to touch the chain because a jeep engine is not an ohc motor. if the timing gets messed up some how, big deal. just re-time it.
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Old 01-29-2008, 12:35 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 350chevrolet View Post
just re-time it.
That would make the job harder.. you will have to undo lots of more things in the front wouldn't you?

As my experience for that goes...My miata was DOHC and to correct the timing on that you'd have to remove the crank pulley and the belts... few more covers, the fans, the valve cover, few more hoses and wires... long story short, pain in the butt.
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Old 01-29-2008, 12:45 AM   #14
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it took me about 30 min extra to time my M50 bmw dohc motor after i put S52 cams in it and it was a chain. setting timing is hard if you dont have the proper tools but if you have them its easy. but like i said, i dont think you need to mess with the timing on a jeep engine while removing the head because i dont think it is an ohc motor. if its not an ohc then when you take the head off you just remove the pushrods and keep them in the order they came out, the same thing that you do on v8 and other non ohc motors. BUT, i will agree with you, if you need to adjust the timing you will need to remove more than the head. a jeep is nothing like a miata tho.
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Old 01-29-2008, 06:19 AM   #15
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jeep is not an overhead cam engine, its an old school pushrod inline 6 (as far as I am aware). The camshaft and the crankshaft are both in the block, as far as I know. I have never had one apart, but since the motor is from the 70s, I always assumed it that way..
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Old 01-29-2008, 07:10 AM   #16
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Trip...need to add positive value here if you're "not sure" on what to do...

It's an inline 6, it's the simplest job around... read the manual and you will have your answers. Posing hypothetical questions is one thing, but this is not your Miata so beyond the 4 wheels nothing is the same.
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Old 01-29-2008, 07:25 AM   #17
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i hope i'm wrong, but i don't think i will need to pull the engine....??
No...you don't need to pull the motor and it does not have an overhead cam. It does have an overhead rocker shaft assembly but that's not a big deal to remove. Just make sure you replace it the way you took it off and torque it properly.

Good excuse to buy that new 1/2" torque wrench you had you eye on at Sears.

Let us know how it goes and ask if you have questions. Your feedback is important for future readers on this topic....
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Old 01-29-2008, 09:31 AM   #18
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great help guys! i appreciate it. btw, it's the 2.5L 4cyl. will start tearing into it after work this evening.

good things...i have the FSM for my jeep and i have a healthy supply of tools.

i will have it magnafluxed (as soon as i figure out somewhere to take it). i'll look into having the seals replaced too. i only want to do this once, so if there is a part to have machined, cleaned, gasket or seal to be replaced....i want to do it now.
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Old 01-29-2008, 10:33 AM   #19
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this may sound dumb being the 2.5L 4cyl, but are there any performance mods i can do with this engine while i have some things pulled apart?
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Old 01-29-2008, 01:14 PM   #20
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heheh you're kidding right?

Some say throttle body spacer, Jet chip, or CAI. Some mention a different camshaft.

You won't get much out of it either way.
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Old 01-29-2008, 01:43 PM   #21
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I suppose you could port match the exhaust and intake ports if you really felt ambitious.

(I'm only kidding...waste of $$$)
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Old 01-29-2008, 03:49 PM   #22
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Just use a good torque wrench. Also wouldn't hurt to get new head bolts. I don't think a 2.5 is torque to yeild on the head bolts. So you shouldn't need a degree wheel. If it is torque to yeild you need new bolts.
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Old 01-30-2008, 12:16 AM   #23
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Quote:
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this may sound dumb being the 2.5L 4cyl, but are there any performance mods i can do with this engine while i have some things pulled apart?
IRTBs

Might as well clean the ports so they are nice and clean but actually porting stuff w/ a dremmel tool can be quite tricky especially when there is no info on it.
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Old 01-30-2008, 09:06 AM   #24
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yeah, i just thought i'd ask. like i said, while i am in there...

once this thing is cleaned and sealed up it will probably drive better than it has since i've owned it, so that should be good enough.
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Old 01-30-2008, 09:11 AM   #25
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And it'll hold ya over until you put in that V8 or 4.0.
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Old 01-30-2008, 09:11 AM   #26
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i got working on it yesterday evening. got as much done before the sun went down. i didn't feel like pulling the lights out to continue working, and dinner was ready, so i will work some more this evening.

don't think it's supposed to look like this.....


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Old 01-30-2008, 09:17 AM   #27
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And it'll hold ya over until you put in that V8 or 4.0.
yes sir. i think that, plus replacing the exhaust manifold while it's pulled off anyway, and swapping in the new o2 sensor will wake this thing up a bit.
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Old 01-30-2008, 09:19 AM   #28
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Yup... that's the expresso latte I was referring to.
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Old 01-30-2008, 01:01 PM   #29
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Just change the oil a few times when your done. So the first few times use really cheap oil/filter. Fill with oil drive for a few days change. I would do that on or two times then put good oil in it. If you leave any in there it will kill the cam first then the rod/main bearings and cylinders and more.
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Old 01-30-2008, 03:23 PM   #30
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what is the best way to flush the old stuff (oil/sludge) out? will i need to drop the oil pan and clean it out also? will i still need to replace the oil pump?

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