So I just got my mail, and sure enough, the coil spacers are just as advertised from a gentleman on the forum. Now I will get them in tomorrow and will run the stock lenght shocks for a little bit. The spacers are 2 1/4 or so.
My plan is this:
1. Pull a shock from the jeep and measure it against my soft ride nitro shocks that I have.
2. Build bump stop extensions to compensate for the difference in collapsed lenght of shocks to keep from bottoming out the shock and bumping the fenders with the 33's.
3. Enjoy the added droop from the longer shocks.
This is my thought process exactly, My soft ride shocks are much longer and that won't be a big deal because I am certain the tires will hit the fenders when flexing before the shocks bottom out. I also plan on having that keep the coils from binding. I will still have enough room to handle road driving and such without bashing on my bump stops all the time as well. The drastic length difference will allow for more droop and stability off road.
I know this will lead into the whole usable traction/unseating coils/lockers/disco/don't disco/ blah blah blah. please for my sake lets stay away from those subjects. This is a budget lift in progress with new parts added continually and will end up in a couple of years with antirock, coilovers, lockers, and triangulated three link.....you get where I'm going so there is no reason to try to convince me to go other ways just yet. I will beat you all up for that when $$$$ allows.
Am I off my rocker or are there just a couple things I'm missing. Also, anyone have a pieced together budget lift that has served them well?
I'm with you man, I ran spacers for a year or so and didn't like the way I could see the bright red spacer under the front end, so I got on the hunt and found 4" longer coils by Rancho on quadratec for $80 a pair, so now I have them in the front, spacers in the back, absolutely nothing else!! No TC drop, no shocks, and its been riding great now for 4 years, and I can disco and have tons of fun off-road, but don't forget to get an alignment after you lift it
ok, so gearing, the point of gearing your axles is to find the optimum rpm vs speed traveled. that way you don't bog your engine and ruin components or burn your clutch when trying to start on a hill or something to that effect. past that, it is a beauty is in the eye of the beholder situation. If you want to race everywhere you go, gear down and burn through the gears between stop lights, if you want to improve fuel economy, tweak your engine and powerband so you are at or near your tq peak at hwy cruising rpm. If you plan on changing things in your drivetrain, such as tranny or bigger tires or new axles, engine work......its all a waste of time.
My experience is this, my old F250 sitting in my driveway hasn't been regeared and is running 35's. many said first things first, gear the truck. Not realising the situation and the tq available from the 460. I could chirp 35's simply by rolling on the throttle too hard in third gear. People jump to conclusions pretty quickly. Now for the 37's on the truck, that threw them for a whirl and said before anything else regear the truck. I chose not to again because I built a 514 stroker that makes 600~650 lb-ft.
Granted the reason that works without any arguement is because the truck makes more torque than I can put to the ground at any given time but it is the same principal.
For the my jeep, no point in regearing when I get to 33's cuz I have the six speed that helps. I also happen to have a built 350 sitting in my garage waiting for me to bite the bullet and go ahead with the swap. No gearing issues with that much hp/tq either.
So I kinda got on a rant, easy for me to do. The biggest thing to keep in mind is that many people have their oppinions and stand by their beliefs firmly. I am the same way, my priorities are not the same as many others but the end result as long as you are the one calling the shots will be a bad @$$ rig regardless of how many people disagree with how you got there.