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Old 02-06-2011, 09:44 AM   #1
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HEAVY DUTY TIE ROD...Currie,Rugged-Ridge??

Hello everybody! So I'm looking to replace my tie rod system with a heavy duty one.... Which one should I go for? Any advice would be much appreciated!

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Old 02-06-2011, 11:19 AM   #2
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Currie or Crown (V8 ZJ setup). Don't go with rugged ridge unless you like massive dead spots in your steering.

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Old 02-06-2011, 11:24 AM   #3
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Save up your pennies and go for Currie's, you can't go wrong with it.
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Old 02-06-2011, 03:35 PM   #4
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I have the ZJ steering on my TJ and it's surely more solid than the stock setup. You can get it all at a junkyard for pretty cheap. The Currie setup is definitely on my list though.
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Old 02-06-2011, 04:49 PM   #5
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I've also seen this one mentioned:

Crown Automotive Steering Assembly Upgrade Kits - JCWhitney

From what I understand, this might not be super-HD like Currie, but it is beefier than stock. As always, it just depends on the application/usage.

UPDATE: Sorry, UnlimitedLJ04 and drewcipher88 - didn't mean to step on your toes. I should have read the thread more carefully.
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Old 02-06-2011, 05:24 PM   #6
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UPDATE: Sorry, UnlimitedLJ04 and drewcipher88 - didn't mean to step on your toes. I should have read the thread more carefully.
no toes have been stepped on. the crown setup is a good one, its just the V8 ZJ steering....and the crown price is pretty darn good for everything you get.
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Old 02-06-2011, 05:35 PM   #7
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Will this improve the handling of the TJ? Is this the kit? Thanks. Crown Automotive Steering Assembly Upgrade Kits - JCWhitney
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Old 02-06-2011, 06:15 PM   #8
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Will this improve the handling of the TJ? Is this the kit?
are your tie-rod ends worn out? are the drag link ends worn out?
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Old 02-06-2011, 07:15 PM   #9
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I had the rugged ridge on my tj with a 4" lift and with my new 6" and ill be nice but it dam near killed me with 2" dead spots from left to right .and I change dust boots every oil change. I had it for less then a year and now im using the stock steering.
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Old 02-06-2011, 07:41 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by just4fun
I had the rugged ridge on my tj with a 4" lift and with my new 6" and ill be nice but it dam near killed me with 2" dead spots from left to right .and I change dust boots every oil change. I had it for less then a year and now im using the stock steering.
X2 on that Rugged Ridge...it is junk. Wish I could say something nice but I'll just say, save for the Currie or rebuild your OEM.
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Old 02-06-2011, 08:10 PM   #11
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Currie has been flawless for me so far.
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Old 02-06-2011, 09:46 PM   #12
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I am really thinking about this crown set up. I have heard a lot of good things about their company. Wish they were easier to buy from. I always have to go through a vendor and I never know if they are ripping you off or what.
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Old 02-06-2011, 10:33 PM   #13
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Currie or bust (that might be a pun)
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Old 02-07-2011, 02:45 PM   #14
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If you want to do it right, you can't beat GenRight. I have their steering kit and I can tell you it defines beefy. The knuckles would split, the steering box would shear off, and the axle tube would bend before this kit would give a centimeter.

Jeep Steering Kit, 5/8
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Old 02-07-2011, 07:58 PM   #15
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If you want to do it right, you can't beat GenRight. I have their steering kit and I can tell you it defines beefy. The knuckles would split, the steering box would shear off, and the axle tube would bend before this kit would give a centimeter.
Based on that, I would definitely avoid the GenRight kit then. I'd rather have the tie rod bend like Currie's is designed to do before something serious upstream breaks because any of those you mention breaking would leave your Jeep undrivable. You can drive on a bent tie rod (though it would take a massive force to bend Currie's) but you can't drive home if anything breaks.
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Old 02-08-2011, 02:53 PM   #16
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Based on that, I would definitely avoid the GenRight kit then. I'd rather have the tie rod bend like Currie's is designed to do before something serious upstream breaks because any of those you mention breaking would leave your Jeep undrivable. You can drive on a bent tie rod (though it would take a massive force to bend Currie's) but you can't drive home if anything breaks.
When you're on the rocks, you takes yer chances.

Of course you need to evaluate your setup and identify possible failures, etc. All I'm saying is the kit is beefy.
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Old 02-08-2011, 04:22 PM   #17
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Big thanks for all the replies! I am for sure going to eliminate the Rugged Ridge thought... I think I will go for the Currie. It would have been my initial choice,but I wanted to rule out the doubt of something cheaper being as good...Thanks again,and HAPPY JEEP'N
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Old 02-08-2011, 05:30 PM   #18
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The Genright uses tubing, not solid like the Currie.

The Genright uses Heim joints - they are good but don't last as long as a standard TRE.
I've heard Heims are not legal for street use - they tend to come apart unless they are the "trapped" type.

The GenRight requires you to determine how long the tie rod will be, then cut and weld it.

The Genright has to have the tapered holes drilled out for the regular Heim bolts can bolt on.

The Currie is essentially a plug and play unit.

The Currie drag link is a forging - I couldn't believe it when I snapped one. Forgings don't like to bend. It was probably a fluke, Currie said thry'd never jheard f one breaking before.

Currie all the way!

The stock tie rods bend if you just look at them wrong!
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Old 02-08-2011, 06:52 PM   #19
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I went with Crown but that's only because I only have 2.5" of lift. You have 4" so I suggest you go Currie. You have to have at least 4" for their set up.
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Old 02-08-2011, 06:57 PM   #20
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The Genright uses tubing, not solid like the Currie.

The Genright uses Heim joints - they are good but don't last as long as a standard TRE.
I've heard Heims are not legal for street use - they tend to come apart unless they are the "trapped" type.

The GenRight requires you to determine how long the tie rod will be, then cut and weld it.

The Genright has to have the tapered holes drilled out for the regular Heim bolts can bolt on.

The Currie is essentially a plug and play unit.

The Currie drag link is a forging - I couldn't believe it when I snapped one. Forgings don't like to bend. It was probably a fluke, Currie said thry'd never jheard f one breaking before.

Currie all the way!

The stock tie rods bend if you just look at them wrong!
Have you ever seen the GenRight kit in person? The tubing is DOM Cromoly in 5/8" OD. Plus it has no holes, threads, flatspots, etc. like the stock Y-link design. It's awesome.

My second point is one that is not obvious if you are not technically inclined, but given the same amount of metal, a tube is actually STRONGER than a solid rod. It doesn't apply here because the Currie tie rod is 1 1/4" so it's friggin bulletproof, but has to weigh a ton.

Heims don't last as long as rod ends????? I am not going to insult your intelligence by assuming that you really believe that.

The Currie unit is a good unit and is 1000% better than stock, but the GenRight kit is better. That's all I'm sayin'.
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Old 02-08-2011, 07:27 PM   #21
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I went with Crown but that's only because I only have 2.5" of lift. You have 4" so I suggest you go Currie. You have to have at least 4" for their set up.
i just installed my currie kit a couple weeks ago and love it. i only have 2.5 inches of lift and it worked out fine.
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Old 02-08-2011, 07:34 PM   #22
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i just installed my currie kit a couple weeks ago and love it. i only have 2.5 inches of lift and it worked out fine.
Huh. I emailed their tech and he told me I would have binding trouble with that low of a lift. Oh well, no worries. the Crown is heavy duty enough so far and I've beat it up pretty good.
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Old 02-08-2011, 07:34 PM   #23
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Heims don't last as long as rod ends?????
No, they don't which is why you don't see ANY factory installed heim joints used for steering and only a few aftermarket companies use them for steering. Heims wear faster than TREs and they get sloppy faster. And when they wear enough, they come apart... not what you want in your steering system. Which is, again, why heims are so seldom seen in steering systems and NEVER in factory installed steering systems. And never seen in vehicles that are designed for daily driver use.

And if you need more evidence, do a little research and you'll find that heim joints are not even legal for use on steering systems in some states. So sure heim joints would be fine for an offroad vehicle but few in this forum have Jeeps that aren't mostly daily drivers.
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Old 02-08-2011, 10:20 PM   #24
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They GenRight says it made of "heavy wall 5/8 DOM tube."
Heavy wall? The heaviest Walled 5/8 DOM tube I can find is only 3/16 thick!

Speedy Metals Information for DOM Steel Tube

3/16 is only slightly heavier than the stock wet spaghetti stuff. But they do use DOM where stock isn't.

The DOM - Drawn Over Mandrel makes it harder - from work hardening. The steel is the same thing as regular ERW tube - it started out as ERW before being drawn through the mandrel, which work hardens it.

DOM needs to be welded with TIG welding to retain the strength and reduce stress cracks. Even then, the welds should be stress relieved (heat treated,) otherwise right next to the welds are failure points.

The Currie Solid rod is a bit heavier, but being solid compared to 3/16 hollow tube it's a world stronger. Try it yourself with a press, the hollow tube collapses, then bends.

And - notice the GenRight tie rod runs the entire width of the Jeep - a very long span. The Currie's spans are shorter.
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Old 02-08-2011, 10:25 PM   #25
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Huh. I emailed their tech and he told me I would have binding trouble with that low of a lift. Oh well, no worries. the Crown is heavy duty enough so far and I've beat it up pretty good.


That was the same answer I got from them also Gus.
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Old 02-08-2011, 10:52 PM   #26
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You have to have at least 4" for their set up.
I've been running the Currie setup with OME 2" lift and no binding, works perfect so far.
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Old 02-08-2011, 11:40 PM   #27
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They GenRight says it made of "heavy wall 5/8 DOM tube."
Heavy wall? The heaviest Walled 5/8 DOM tube I can find is only 3/16 thick!

Speedy Metals Information for DOM Steel Tube

3/16 is only slightly heavier than the stock wet spaghetti stuff. But they do use DOM where stock isn't.

The DOM - Drawn Over Mandrel makes it harder - from work hardening. The steel is the same thing as regular ERW tube - it started out as ERW before being drawn through the mandrel, which work hardens it.

DOM needs to be welded with TIG welding to retain the strength and reduce stress cracks. Even then, the welds should be stress relieved (heat treated,) otherwise right next to the welds are failure points.

The Currie Solid rod is a bit heavier, but being solid compared to 3/16 hollow tube it's a world stronger. Try it yourself with a press, the hollow tube collapses, then bends.

And - notice the GenRight tie rod runs the entire width of the Jeep - a very long span. The Currie's spans are shorter.

A hollow tube is more resistant to bending than a solid rod. Period. It has to do with the moment of inertia. In a hydraulic press, it would deform the tube before the rod, but in a steering linkage setup, who cares?

I did some research and can't find any statute at all concerning any type of joints in steering setups. If you can find anything specific, please point it out. Also just because something is not specifically DOT approved, does not make it illegal.

Heims seem to work just fine on either end of aftermarket control arms. And as far as the steering goes, I've broken 2 rod ends so far, but no heim joints... Weird.
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Old 02-08-2011, 11:57 PM   #28
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another vote for CURRIE
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Old 02-09-2011, 01:08 AM   #29
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Agreed - Pound for pound hollow is more resistant to bending - at least at the very start. When it starts to bend, it collapses, then it has very little strength. A solid rod continues to have about the same resistance throughout the entire bend.
A solid rod of the same diameter has the same moment arm as the hollow one, but it also has the material inside adding to the strength.

The only difference between the GenRight and stock is it's DOM - work hardened, stronger yet more brittle.

The big difference here is the diameter, the solid Currie is much larger than the others.

Tie rods are subject to impact too, an impact dings the tube, making it the collapse point.

I've seen the statutes somewhere, keep looking, you'll find them.
To be safe and reliable Heims have to be "trapped." Both sides of them have to be supported. Look at the GenRight site - notice the "Twisted Pitman Arm" they sell "traps" the joint, but the connections to the spindle arms are not "trapped" - just single sided.

I'm sure being such an enthusiast you TIG welded yours and had it heat treated after welding. Most people would rather have something that's "Plug and Play."

In any case, if you decide to switch to Currie or anything else when you break yours, you'll need new spindles and a new Pitman arm after drilling the holes straight.

Good Luck with it.
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Old 02-09-2011, 02:58 AM   #30
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im with rubi cobra

Jerry do more research on heims. a quality heim like an FK is very strong, long lasting and is widely used in motorsports of all kinds in suspension and steering. OEM guys dont use them more likely due to cost and production then a safetly or other issue. built right with a double shear setup and you wont see a tie rod falling off. I have FK heims in multiple long travel trucks i work on and heim failure in the steering really isnt a big concern at all. rack and pinions and knuckles usually die first. 2 of the trucks are daily driven for the last 3 or more years with no issues.

rrich the gen right kit is IMO superior to the Currie kit. BUT the currie kit is far more versitile in cost, ease of install and can fullfill the needs of the vast mojority of weekend wheelers and then some. the currie steering still has the same draw backs in parts "IF" you break them. nothing can be bought over the counter.

as far as metals... 1020 or1026 3/16s wall DOM is far superior to the thin mild steal used in the stock tie rod. i wouldnt even put them on the same table.

"To be safe and reliable Heims have to be "trapped."" no they dont. look at rubicon express trac bars. Ive run mine for years very hard and no issues. ive yet to see a sheared quality heim before the trac bar mount rips off the frame. I run FK heims and never have issues.

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