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Old 10-19-2007, 04:33 PM   #1
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 10
HELP!! Dana 35 Ring Gear has broken teeth

I have a 98 Wrangler with a Dana 35 and 3.73 gears in the rear with a couple of broken teeth. Is there an easy way to change out the ring gear? Does anyone has a guide or instructions for this?

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Old 10-19-2007, 05:13 PM   #2
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If you've never done it, I highly suggest taking it to a shop. Because if you screw it up you only have yourself to blame. If they mess it up, you can yell at them.

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Old 10-19-2007, 05:40 PM   #3
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A ring a pinion are machined as a matched set, you can't replace one without replacing the other.
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Old 10-19-2007, 06:11 PM   #4
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Ebay, and a friend that goes to Wyotech or other automotive school
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Old 10-19-2007, 07:54 PM   #5
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Myths Regarding Differentials
Over the years I have heard a lot of myths regarding the setup and design of differentials.
Anyone with a little experience can fix a diff.
I have heard time and time again that the following situations make a person a qualified differential expert:

1. They are an old-timer, a grizzled guy with stained overalls.
2. They are a machinist.
3. They are in a four-wheel drive club.
4. They have built a few rearends for their buddies.

I believe there are only a few people who really know how to setup a rearend correctly, and they have learned from years of experience and collecting facts.

The gear ratio in the front of a four wheel drive has to be different from the rear so the front wheels will pull more.
There have been many different ratio combinations used in four-wheel drive vehicles, but not so that the front will pull more. Gear manufactures use different ratios for many different reasons. Some of those reasons are: strength, gear life, noise (or lack of it), geometric constraints, or simply because of the tooling they have available. I have seen Ford use a 3.50 ratio in the rear with a 3.54 in the front, or a 4.11 in the rear with a 4.09 in the front. As long as the front and rear ratios are within 1%, the vehicle works just fine on the road, and can even be as different as 2% for off-road use with no side effects.

1 point difference in ratio is equal to 1%.
To find the percentage difference in ratios it is necessary to divide, not subtract. In order to find the difference, divide one ratio by the other and look at the numbers to the right of the decimal point to see how far they vary from 1.00. For example: 3.54 ÷ 3.50 = 1.01, or 1%, not 4% different. And likewise 4.11 ÷ 4.09 = 1.005, or only a 1/2% difference. These differences are about the same as a 1/3" variation in front to rear tire height, which probably happens more often than we realize.

A difference in the ratio will damage the transfer case.
Any extreme difference in front and rear ratios or front and rear tire height will put undue force on the drive train. However, any difference will put strain on all parts of the drivetrain. The forces generated from the difference have to travel through the axle assemblies and the driveshafts to get to the transfer case. These excessive forces can just as easily break a front u-joint or rear spider gear as well as parts in the transfer case.

Positraction is better than limited slip.
I have heard many people call a standard open differential a "limited slip" and I have been asked for a limited slip instead of a positraction because they wanted something that was not too aggressive. From my experience positraction and limited slip are just two different names for the same thing. If anyone can find a SAE standard or printed definition please let me know and I will gladly correct myself.
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Old 10-19-2007, 08:00 PM   #6
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Location: pahrump Nevada
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after you buy your new ring and pinion this might help with the install
but if you are missing teeth then you do have to order up a new gear set dont forget the master install kit
I would say its time to upgrade maybe an 8.8 or a dana44
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Old 06-18-2011, 12:07 PM   #7
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 4
My starter won't engage, only whines when I turn the key. Have already replaced; starter (after AutoZone said it failed testing), the solenoid & ignition switch. I am looking to replace the ring gear attached to the flywheel, since the tips of all the teeth are worn (though just slightly), and really seems that is the last thing it could be.
My Two Questions:
1) Is there anything else I may be missing?
2) Can I replace just the gear or do I need to replace the gear & flywheel as one assembely? (I've heard the gears on some vehicles are heated before install, effectively becoming a pressed fit to flywheel and a beast to remove!).

Anyone know if this applies to my 1987 Wrangler, 4.2L w/ Peugeot 5 speed?
Oops, guess that's three questions!!

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