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Old 10-07-2007, 09:57 PM   #1
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help egtting out bumper torx bolts

Just bought a new tubular bumber for my 03 wrangler. Have gone through two bits already from craftsman. Any sugestions?????

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Old 10-07-2007, 10:09 PM   #2
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Impact wrench and perseverance... maybe a case of Oberon or PBR.

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Old 10-07-2007, 10:10 PM   #3
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nigilcv, Try hitting them with a ball pein hammer real good first, alot of times this will break any rust or locktite loose and will alow them to be removed. Also, make sure to use a good bit like a Snap-on or Proto, they worked for me.

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Old 10-07-2007, 10:11 PM   #4
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Hammer.














BIG Hammer.















REALLY BIG F'N HAMMER!!!!













Oh, then you just use an impact gun and about a half a can of penetrating oil per bolt, cuz they might as well be welded by rust! But be patient, they'll come loose, you just need to apply overwhelming force! Hold the bit in place w/ some pliers, give a few good smacks, try the impact, then re-beat as needed! Rotsa ruck!
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Old 10-07-2007, 10:13 PM   #5
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those bits are trying to tell you something.
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Old 10-07-2007, 10:15 PM   #6
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mine came right out with no trouble...just used a breaker bar
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Old 10-07-2007, 10:21 PM   #7
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those bits are trying to tell you something.
yeah, they're saying Craftsman.
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Old 10-07-2007, 10:30 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nigilcv View Post
Have gone through two bits already from craftsman. Any sugestions?????
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Originally Posted by orange05tj View Post
yeah, they're saying Craftsman.
huh?


I think more like tubular bumpers are worse than stock as far as strength goes? Whats even worse about them is no tow hooks..
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Old 10-08-2007, 05:16 PM   #9
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Quote:
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huh?


I think more like tubular bumpers are worse than stock as far as strength goes? Whats even worse about them is no tow hooks..
I'll agree with you on tin donkey bumpers, wait, I think they're called steel horse? but a tubular bumper from a company like OR Fab is amazing and can still maintain tow hooks mounted in the factory position.
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Old 10-08-2007, 05:57 PM   #10
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mine came right out with no trouble...just used a breaker bar
x2

used a good 1/2" drive breaker.
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Old 10-08-2007, 06:10 PM   #11
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a normal wrench will not work.

i used a 5 feet metal tube to extend the wrench. that worked.

an impact wrench will do it much better.
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Old 10-08-2007, 06:24 PM   #12
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i used a 5 feet metal tube to extend the wrench. that worked.
jeez, long enough for ya? lol
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Old 10-08-2007, 06:26 PM   #13
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If the bits are breaking, get higher quality bits.

Torx are the devil, weld a nut to them take them off with something evil and air powered, or something evil and oxy/act powered

Or just stop hitting them with your purse
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Old 10-08-2007, 06:27 PM   #14
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that was the only one we could find.

my buddy used his weight to press the T55 nut down into the torx bolt and i needed not much power to loosen it with the extension.
but that only worked with a high quality T55 nut. we broke one cheap nut before.
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Old 10-08-2007, 06:35 PM   #15
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Anarchy, your avatar is a picture of a rim w/ a bead locks right?

I'd go to a shop and ask them for an oil change and while they are at it ask them to unscrew them w/ an air gun. They might even do it for free.

I got my RC lower control arms filled w/ grease for free at the shop i went to when waiting for the oil to drain.

Nico i'm just teasing ya
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Old 10-08-2007, 06:59 PM   #16
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Anarchy, your avatar is a picture of a rim w/ a bead locks right?
Correct, they are my hummer 12 bolts I re-centered for mine.


a better pic
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Old 10-08-2007, 07:29 PM   #17
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Ohh now thats cool Love the skulls
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Old 10-08-2007, 07:43 PM   #18
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Anarchy, your avatar is a picture of a rim w/ a bead locks right?

I'd go to a shop and ask them for an oil change and while they are at it ask them to unscrew them w/ an air gun. They might even do it for free.

I got my RC lower control arms filled w/ grease for free at the shop i went to when waiting for the oil to drain.

Nico i'm just teasing ya
they would probably do it for you...btw, we grease everything that has a grease fitting...

your too late to use the torx socket if you've already started drilling out the bolt. have someone weld a nut on the top
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Old 10-08-2007, 08:04 PM   #19
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your too late to use the torx socket if you've already started drilling out the bolt. have someone weld a nut on the top
Huh?
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Old 10-08-2007, 08:11 PM   #20
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bits

Go to your local NAPA and get your bits there,they are heavy duty,boke some regular ones when I was putting on my windsheild light mounts on,went to napa and finished without a hitch!
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Old 10-08-2007, 08:40 PM   #21
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I just took mine off 1 hour ago. With a 1/2 inch drive. If it was any easier they would come off by them self. Maybe b/c mine has low miles?
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Old 10-08-2007, 08:53 PM   #22
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long breaker bar
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Old 10-08-2007, 09:11 PM   #23
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I had the same problem but it was for the torx bolts for my rear seatbelt mounts. I broke a cheap bit bought a higher quality one for my 1/2" drive socket andpoured some PB blaster on it and I did not have a breaker bar but the kids horse shoe pipe worked awsome I could feel the rust fighting me but it lost. Anyway more leverage and good tools make a hell of a difference of course a few whacks with the BFH never hurts.
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Old 10-08-2007, 11:32 PM   #24
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btw for the people that use "breaker bars" i use a hammer to brake stuff
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Old 10-09-2007, 11:53 AM   #25
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll try them this weekend. Nappa sells the good stuff, Huh? If not Napa where can I get really good torx bits that won't strip as often.
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Old 10-09-2007, 12:18 PM   #26
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll try them this weekend. Nappa sells the good stuff, Huh? If not Napa where can I get really good torx bits that won't strip as often.
Find a mac truck, or a snap on truck
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Old 10-09-2007, 03:25 PM   #27
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Or get Craftsman from Sears. Cheaper and lifetime replaceable.
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Old 10-09-2007, 03:37 PM   #28
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heat,heat,more heat
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Old 10-09-2007, 03:42 PM   #29
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heat,heat,more heat
would work great on the windshield torx don't ya think
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Old 10-09-2007, 03:54 PM   #30
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it is easier there, being vertical and all hehe

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