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Old 09-06-2009, 09:18 AM   #1
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Exclamation Help!! I'm stuck!

I have a 99 Wrangler 4.0L 5-speed. Anyone know if the bellhousing inspection plate has to come off to remove the oil pan. My Haynes manual says to remove it. I removed the starter. Then I removed 3 bolts on the bottom, 2 up on each side and the plate still won't come off. Looks like you practically have to remove the bellhousing to get the plate free.

I just want to know if I can get the oil pan off without removing this plate. It kind of looks like it. I'm just looking for someone who's had the oil pan off before and can tell me for sure before I totally disable my Jeep. Since it's a holiday weekend I have no access to other service manuals (from the library) and can't even ask the dealer.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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Old 09-06-2009, 09:23 AM   #2
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i dont think you need to take the inspec plate off

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Old 09-06-2009, 09:27 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJeepoftheFamily View Post
I have a 99 Wrangler 4.0L 5-speed. Anyone know if the bellhousing inspection plate has to come off to remove the oil pan. My Haynes manual says to remove it. I removed the starter. Then I removed 3 bolts on the bottom, 2 up on each side and the plate still won't come off. Looks like you practically have to remove the bellhousing to get the plate free.

I just want to know if I can get the oil pan off without removing this plate. It kind of looks like it. I'm just looking for someone who's had the oil pan off before and can tell me for sure before I totally disable my Jeep. Since it's a holiday weekend I have no access to other service manuals (from the library) and can't even ask the dealer.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
If you want the FSM (Factory Service Manual) PM me with your e.mail address.
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Old 09-06-2009, 09:27 AM   #4
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hope you have new gaskets and y u taking it off
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Old 09-06-2009, 09:45 AM   #5
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I just pulled my trans yesterday and that dust cover won't come out unless the motor and trans are seperated cause the dowel pins go through the cover. I dont know bout the pan though. It seems to me if you can get the back two bolts out then it should just come straight down.
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Old 09-06-2009, 11:50 AM   #6
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Yeah, I didn't think that inspection plate was coming off without major work. I'm using a Haynes manual for 87-99 Wranglers. That's a lot of years of Wranglers so I was hoping I wouldn't have to take the plate on my 99.

Looks like I can get the rear pan bolts off. I was just wondering about the rubber piece between the plate and the pan. Guess I'll proceed to take the pan off.

To answer the question why I'm removing the oil pan...my pressure release valve in the oil pump is stuck. So when the weather gets cold, even using my winter 5w-30, the oil pressure shoots up to 80 psi at 2000 rpm's. I'm replacing the oil pump, obviously putting new gaskets on the pan, and possibly replacing the rear main seal that is starting to leak. Depends if I can get to the rear main with the inspection cover still on. It doesn't leak bad enough to even drip on the ground and it's been that way for a while. Not worried about it just thought I'd replace it while I'm there. Just worried about getting the pump replaced before winter.
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Old 09-07-2009, 09:05 PM   #7
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Try www.daileydrivenTJ.com. Good right-up on replacing rear main seal, includes removing oil pan, etc. Good luck, do a follow-up, I'm going to have to replace my rms in the future.
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Old 09-09-2009, 01:42 PM   #8
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Thanks for the tip on DailyDrivenTJ.com - Welcome. I just read the write up on rear main replacement--excellent! Very useful info about just removing the pan and doing the gaskets. Sounds like the dust cover on the bellhousing has to come off to do the rear main though. My rear main doesn't leak too bad--doesn't even drip. I'll know more once I get the pan off. Thanks for the info though.
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Old 09-14-2009, 06:57 PM   #9
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Don't think I'll trust the Haynes manual anymore. The inspection plate that they said to take off doesn't come off without removing the tranny but you actually don't need to take it off to get the oil pan loose.

The exhaust that the Haynes manual NEVER mentioned does have to come off. Nice to know now that my pan is hanging loose and sitting on top of the exhaust. On my 99 4.0L I'm going to have to remove the exhaust from right below the header all the way back to the muffler.

So far the front is disconnected from the header with only 1 (of 2) bolts broken because it was so rusty. Thought the front would drop low enough to remove the pan but no such luck. Today I soaked the back bolt behind the cat with oil. Hoping not to break that one but it doesn't look promising after 10 years of corrosion.

Funny how everyone makes dropping the fuel tank and changing a fuel pump sound hard. That was a walk in the park compared to changing out an oil pump. Of course the oil pan and pump have given me no problems. Just the exhaust that's right in the way.

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