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Old 05-06-2011, 04:37 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendog View Post
OK master of all that is offroad, lets assume that we dont all have an unlimited budget like you. Do you have some constructive advice as to what I should do?

I have asked about this idea for the rear sense I have to regear and get a locker/limited slip anyway:
G2 Axle & Gear D44TJTT373 - G2 Axle & Gear Rear 30 Spline Dana 44 Assembly with Detroit Truetrac for 97-06 Jeep® Wrangler TJ & Unlimited - Quadratec

I have also asked about the Super 35 kit but it doesn't come with gears.

I would value your advice but you assuming that I'm "splashing in a couple mud holes" because I don't have the money to build a dedicated rock crawler isn't very helpful.
Calm down. I think you may have taken that the wrong way. My "dedicated" rock crawler is also my "dedicated"daily driver. Unemployment is far from an unlimited budget! I was just trying to find out how hard you are going to beat on your rig. Some peoples idea of 4 wheeling might be a lot more extreme, or a lot less extreme than mine. I would love to help you out, just wanted a little more info so you don't piss money away on stuff you won't be happy with. Since you mentioned rockcrawling, I will give you this just off the top of my head, I haven't run the prices.
8.8 rear with 4.88's and Detroit or other non selectable locker, no Tru-Trac.
Keep the 30 up front, 4.88's with a Detroit and Cro-Moly shafts.
4:1 kit for the transfer case.
Now wheel the piss out of it!!
One way I saved a buttload of money was to have a friend set up the gears. I know not everyone knows a mechanic capable of this, but ask around and you will probably find a laid off mechanic that will set the gears for under $200 each. I paid $100 for my 9", and $150(?) for the 44 front. I am not at all a Jeep guru, but I have learned the hard way ($$$$$) a few times and don't want to see someone spend 5k on something and be unhappy or broken on the trail.

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Old 05-06-2011, 05:24 PM   #32
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Does a Detroit Locker hurt snow performance?

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Old 05-06-2011, 05:27 PM   #33
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I would not build the M35. If you lock it and run 35s you will break something or bend the housing. Then have to do it again. The 8.8 is a solid option. The G2 axle is built with set 10 factory bearings and their brand of gears. I don't see why you would want to keep the rear drums. You can upgrade to rear discs for that unit for $552.32 (given the G2 unit is actually going to allow the original D35 drum brakes).

Then I would do a matching R&P for the front with alloy shafts. You will need a new carrier in the front if you don't go to a locker. Do the locker and only pay set up costs once. Don't forget the new seals, unit bearings, and ball joints. I would do an upgrade to your steering; see here and the body/motor lift to stay away from the SYE and CV issue.

so far you are at a tick above $2800. Then get you choice of f/r bumpers/tire carrier and your front gears, TruTrac etc (about $2035 for locker/gears/misc total rebuild).

Good Luck

Namaste,

Allen
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Old 05-06-2011, 05:28 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendog
Does a Detroit Locker hurt snow performance?
Being locked os tricky in snow.
LSD or selectable lockers are best for snow.
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Old 05-06-2011, 05:35 PM   #35
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You need to be more careful on snowy roads, yes. A lot of times (75%), I have better luck with open diffs in the snow, and use the lockers when I get stuck just to get backed out, then I go open again. Two weeks ago I needed both lockers in 1st gear and low range (4:1) to barely idle through the snow. Any amount of throttle would get you stuck. Plenty of people do just fine locked front and rear in the snow, and I have had people argue that 4 tires spinning is always better than 2, as I pulled them out and drove around them open. There are a lot of variables. I have an idea as to why being open works better in snow sometimes, but it would be hard to put into words without going on a lot longer than I already have. It should, in no way, deter you from putting lockers in your Jeep. You just have to learn how to drive with them, if that makes any sense?
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Old 05-06-2011, 06:02 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AOR View Post
I would not build the M35. If you lock it and run 35s you will break something or bend the housing. Then have to do it again. The 8.8 is a solid option. The G2 axle is built with set 10 factory bearings and their brand of gears. I don't see why you would want to keep the rear drums. You can upgrade to rear discs for that unit for $552.32 (given the G2 unit is actually going to allow the original D35 drum brakes).

Then I would do a matching R&P for the front with alloy shafts. You will need a new carrier in the front if you don't go to a locker. Do the locker and only pay set up costs once. Don't forget the new seals, unit bearings, and ball joints. I would do an upgrade to your steering; see here and the body/motor lift to stay away from the SYE and CV issue.

so far you are at a tick above $2800. Then get you choice of f/r bumpers/tire carrier and your front gears, TruTrac etc (about $2035 for locker/gears/misc total rebuild).

Good Luck

Namaste,

Allen

Thanks for all the helpful info. I'm not sure I follow you on the G2 though. Do you or don't you recommend it?
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Old 05-07-2011, 10:40 AM   #37
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OK everyone. I'm getting real close to pulling the trigger.

I'm up in the air about getting a Trutrac for the front. Does anyone have one (front)? Is it worth it?
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Old 05-08-2011, 10:39 AM   #38
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high 44 up front, 8.8 out back 4.56/4.88 gears and put the rest away until you can afford to go 4 link front and rear (Y)
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Old 05-08-2011, 01:21 PM   #39
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I wouldnt worry about the fenders. I'm in MD and all you need those for is inspection, just swap the stock tires back on for a day. If you ever get pulled over ( I'm in Montgomery County so this is rare) they'll issue you a fix it ticket and just swap the stock tires back on and you're set.
My excuse for this used to be."i just put these tires on and ordered the flares they will be in tommorow".
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Old 05-08-2011, 07:50 PM   #40
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Just some advice from what i have. My setup is a 8.8 from a explorer that already had 4.10 gears in it with an aussie locker. you will have to buy the mounting brackets for the axle and have them welded on the axle and it is some work but it is alot cheaper than some of the ready to run axles plus if you get it locally you can save on shipping as well. for the front axle of mine i got a hp d30 from a xj that had 4.10s to start with and that just bolted right in. so far it seems to be a good fairly inexpensive setup. just something to think about because i believe that was both axles with a rear locker(no front yet) for just over 1k i believe. from there you can add the 600 super88kit and have a decent non c-clipped rear end. btw my jeep is 6cyl 5speed just my.02

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