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Old 02-08-2011, 12:45 PM   #1
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Herculiner!

When you guys are applying Herculiner, what is the best way to apply.Do you recommend the roller kit they offer or is there a better/easier way? Going on my bumpers BTW.

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Old 02-08-2011, 01:47 PM   #2
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I used the spray cans for my bumpers, just taped off everything, cleaned them really well with degreaser...and sprayed away!

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Old 02-08-2011, 01:54 PM   #3
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I did a tub, used a brush to get into corners then rolled it out never did a bumper
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Old 02-08-2011, 02:03 PM   #4
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What?!?! A Herculiner thread and no one has mentioned the word Hootus. Well there you have it.


When I did my frame and tub with Herc on my old YJ I used a wire wheel on an angle grinder to really rough up the surface. It is important to rough up the surface that way you get good adhesion of the product. It gives it something to hold on to. The directions say that you should wipe the surface down with xylene before applying it but I didn't have any so I used lacquer thinner.
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Old 02-08-2011, 04:24 PM   #5
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I just did the tub of my 99 Sahara. Prep was the key and was the longest part of the project. I was going to do my bumpers but I am concerned that the herculiner will hold the dirt and look crappy? Anyone tried this on bumpers/body ? Oh and I followed the directions to the t,sanded,washed with soap and water,xylene and rolled(flat aeras) and brushed(corners). Came out awesome. If I had to do it again I wouldnt have painted bottom of the roll bar right behind the front seats,the stuff is so rough it scrapes/cuts my knuckles when I reach back for the lever to pull/tilt the front seat forward.
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Old 02-08-2011, 06:39 PM   #6
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Here is my write up
herculiner and pictures
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Old 02-08-2011, 06:43 PM   #7
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Can i get away with a little 3" paint roller or do i need to use their roller. Reason for asking i have the material but not the kit.
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Old 02-08-2011, 06:46 PM   #8
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Their roller has huge gaps in it, like a sponge, and feels like its made of plastic.
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Old 02-08-2011, 06:47 PM   #9
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When I did my tub I used the roller kit. As stated earlier prep is key. IMO it was the longest and most difficult part of the process. My best advice would be to TAPE AND COVER EVERYTHING YOU DON'T WANT HERCULINED! I put it in caps so I wouldn't have to say it twice. No matter what method you use to put it on it will be messy. If you don't wear gloves it will be on your hands for 2 weeks (personal experience there) and it will drip on the garage floor. It comes off great with Acetone but be careful not to track it inside. I didn't do my bumpers so I don't know how that will look but my tub turned out great. Post some pics of your process!
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Old 02-08-2011, 06:48 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WVRUBI View Post
Can i get away with a little 3" paint roller or do i need to use their roller. Reason for asking i have the material but not the kit.
I used a regular paint roller from the hardware store.
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Old 02-08-2011, 07:12 PM   #11
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jgorm did you do your fender flares in those pics? they look different from body paint. not glossy, cant tell if its line or just flat black. thanks
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Old 02-08-2011, 07:22 PM   #12
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Go for it. Like said above, prep is everything!!! I did my flares and they turned oit great. People look twice. An easy weekend job.. Prep, prep, prep. It'll turn out good. No more worries of water in the tub.


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Old 02-08-2011, 07:49 PM   #13
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jgorm did you do your fender flares in those pics? they look different from body paint. not glossy, cant tell if its line or just flat black. thanks
No, just armor all. It worked great and turned them from gray to black (but it will drink it up on the first application). Then I would do it once a year to keep them black.
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Old 02-08-2011, 08:46 PM   #14
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so they were gray then you used armor all? haha I see! thanks
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Old 02-11-2011, 08:14 AM   #15
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Grinder with wire brush helps ease prep work alot!
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Old 02-11-2011, 10:59 AM   #16
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Grinder with wire brush helps ease prep work alot!
That is overkill for this. The goal is to get the paint off, but leave the protective primer. I used 60 or 80 grit sand paper to rough it up. Worked great and didn't take long.
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Old 02-13-2011, 08:43 AM   #17
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I agree it was a little over done however i got tired of the scuff pads that came with the kit loading up so i decided to turn to power tools to give the service a tooth to hold on to, I didnt strip the paint altogether just etched so to speak.but it seemed to go really quick this way.
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Old 02-25-2011, 10:51 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WVRUBI View Post
When you guys are applying Herculiner, what is the best way to apply.Do you recommend the roller kit they offer or is there a better/easier way? Going on my bumpers BTW.
Having that brand to used up, you need to determine up if what kind of application would you do in order to make things work out on your vehicle. I hope that things would work out well by using that one!
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Old 02-25-2011, 11:20 PM   #19
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you could have got a professional line-x job for around 650.00 and it wont chip factory paint is better than herculiner
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Old 02-26-2011, 09:50 AM   #20
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you could have got a professional line-x job for around 650.00 and it wont chip factory paint is better than herculiner
Herc doesn't chip the paint and binds STRONG. For an additional $550 it better be better! It better do magic tricks or something else to spend that much extra.
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Old 08-27-2011, 06:53 PM   #21
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do you guys thing herculiner is good to use on the frame? im looking to do mine soon. any good ideas on ruffing up the frame suffice n gettin around it?
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Old 08-27-2011, 10:10 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05wrangler View Post
do you guys thing herculiner is good to use on the frame? im looking to do mine soon. any good ideas on ruffing up the frame suffice n gettin around it?
Herc worked good on my frame. I used an angle grinder and a wire wheel as well as one of those flap type sanding discs.




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Old 08-27-2011, 10:15 PM   #23
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I just finished my herc a few hours ago and the factory roller worked really well when I didn't apply pressure. If i pushed down at all it looked bad and looked streaky, but when I just made sure to have a good wet roller, it applied very well. I used the gray kit and love it!
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Old 08-28-2011, 01:11 AM   #24
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Herc worked good on my frame. I used an angle grinder and a wire wheel as well as one of those flap type sanding discs.




that looks good! but my problem is my body is still on the frame n im not wantin to take it off, how "ruff" does it need to be? and how much did it take to cover ur frame? ik prep is everthing when working with coating n body work
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Old 08-28-2011, 06:49 AM   #25
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I have been considering doing my frame, and this has convinced me to proceed. Looks amazing. I'm sure ther are hundreds of threads on this, but how much work and what gotcha's did you run into lifting the motor and body? Did you consider sand blasting, or was it easy enough with grinder?
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Old 08-28-2011, 07:03 AM   #26
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Didnt have the cash to re-paint the jeep so being a cheap skate I herculined the whole thing. I bought 3/4 inch nap rollers from Lowes and used them to roll on, and sponge brushes in the tight spots. My only regret was not sealing it bc now my hood has faded. Oh well, just a reason to strip it again and paint it!

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Old 09-29-2011, 08:10 PM   #27
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Didnt have the cash to re-paint the jeep so being a cheap skate I herculined the whole thing. I bought 3/4 inch nap rollers from Lowes and used them to roll on, and sponge brushes in the tight spots. My only regret was not sealing it bc now my hood has faded. Oh well, just a reason to strip it again and paint it!

Attachment 65169
what do u mean seal it. im about to do mine in a couple days for the tub. i have the top off most of the time and dont really feel like having the sun saying screw u
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Old 09-29-2011, 11:38 PM   #28
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Didn't see these posts earlier. Sorry.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 05wrangler View Post
that looks good! but my problem is my body is still on the frame n im not wantin to take it off, how "ruff" does it need to be? and how much did it take to cover ur frame? ik prep is everthing when working with coating n body work
Fairly rough. I would use 120 grit or lower. It's been quite a while but I think it took one or two cans to do the frame.
Quote:
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I have been considering doing my frame, and this has convinced me to proceed. Looks amazing. I'm sure ther are hundreds of threads on this, but how much work and what gotcha's did you run into lifting the motor and body? Did you consider sand blasting, or was it easy enough with grinder?
Myself and a friend (distortedtj) went from a running fully assembled jeep to this in about 8-10hrs.






The body was fairly easy. Once it was completely stripped it was light enough for two people to pick it up and carry it. I pulled the axles, transfer case, and transmission and everything else so that the only thing attached to the frame was the engine. I didn't have a cherry picker so I moved the frame and engine with a roll around floor jack to where I wanted the engine to sit and set the engine on stands. Then I unbolted the frame from the engine and lifted the frame by hand up and over the engine and away. I think sand blasting with some course media would be easier but I didn't have access to that at the time so I used a grinder and those flappy paddle sanding discs to take it to bare metal.

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