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Here is a Shock Bolt PN List...

13K views 7 replies 4 participants last post by  MI Smiley 
#1 ·
In case anyone is looking for these to do a complete replacement, here are the part numbers for all the shock hardware save for the stock upper front nut, since these usually come with new shocks.

Mine were so badly rusted that I no longer trusted them. The threads crumbled off in spots.

I do not have a dealer within 60 miles of a dealer, so I used an online Mopar parts website (one of several I know of) and ordered them new from them.

TJ SHOCK HARDWARE

Front, Flange Bolt - M8x1.25x30
6502 555 (lower) - 4

Front, Lock Nut - M8x1.25
6101 695 (lower) - 4

Rear, Flange Bolt - M12x1.75x65
6502 473 (lower, has a long shoulder) - 2

Rear, Lock Nut - M12x1.75
6502 835 (lower) - 2

Rear, Flange Bolt - M8x1.25x30
3420 2467 (upper) - 4

Hope this list can help out a fellow TJ wheeler...
 
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#3 ·
Well, it took almost two years to be of much use, but you're quite welcome, man! In the two years since I posted this I have replaced nearly every fastener in the suspension with brand new, either Mopar or aftermarket known-good quality Grade 8 stuff. My stress levels are much lower now because of it. HAHAHA!!!

Let me know how the install goes. (Actually, that ought to go great with brand new stuff. I am more interested in the REMOVAL of all that. The upper rear bolts are a nightmare if rusted!)

Good luck! :thumb:
 
#4 ·
Ha! I'm sure people have used this as a reference in those 2 years and not posted anything. I already removed the stock rear bolts when I did my lift install last year. Replaced with grade 10.9, antiseized the threads and such. All 4 came out fine, but I was prepared in case of breakage. My jeep has lived it's whole life in SoCal so rust is not an issue for me, thank goodness. I used your post to confirm the front lower shock bolts were the same size as the rear uppers. I'm fabricating 1.5" shock "lifters", if you will for the fronts and 1" for the rears. I'm swapping in OME nitrochargers for my current zone hydros. Looking for a smoother ride. The OME's are too short though so by doing the lifters out of 3mm thick steel tubing I'll be able to gain all my droop back on the rear and all but about 3/4" on the front and not have to change my bumpstops. For me it's worth it to improve the ride.
 
#5 ·
In case anyone is looking for these to do a complete replacement,

TJ SHOCK HARDWARE

Front, Flange Bolt - M8x1.25x30
6502 555 (lower) - 4

Front, Lock Nut - M8x1.25
6101 695 (lower) - 4

Rear, Flange Bolt - M12x1.75x65
6502 473 (lower, has a long shoulder) - 2

Rear, Lock Nut - M12x1.75
6502 835 (lower) - 2

Rear, Flange Bolt - M8x1.25x30
3420 2467 (upper) - 4

Hope this list can help out a fellow TJ wheeler...
This is perfect, I spent an hour or so trying to get the front shocks free on my LJ to stick a budget boost spacers in... yeah I managed to round off the heads on those, so round 2 will require a grinder and some fresh hardware, thanks
 
#6 ·
This is perfect, I spent an hour or so trying to get the front shocks free on my LJ to stick a budget boost spacers in... yeah I managed to round off the heads on those, so round 2 will require a grinder and some fresh hardware, thanks
Get a good set of 6 point sockets. You'll round less bolts.

Definitely DO NOT use the M8 OEM Service Bolts. The fronts are Class 9.8 which is between a grade 5 and grade 8 on strength. The rears are actually a torque retaining Class 8.8 (grade 5 equivalent) "tri-roundular" screw that corrodes into a tri-roundular hole in the frame which is why so many break in the frame.

You can get class 10.9 M8 x 30mm flange head screws and also class 10.9 flange head nuts at most auto supply shops (i.e. Autozone) but if you can wait, my go to place for flange head class 10.9 hardware is Boltdepot.com. They will also have the 12 mm lower rear bolts and nuts as well.

Use anti-seize and use standard Lubricated Class 10.9 tightening torques. If you can't find it on the Web, use 5/16 grade 8 non-lubricated and deduct 20%.

Read the entire thread below before you embark on the rear bolts. The fronts can be cut off. Not so lucky with the rears. Sadly, you can see many who still think the solution is to break them by impacting them out without soaking in penetrant. They then offer up all kinds of solutions of how to fix the broken parts. If only they had followed the lessons learned.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/b...ock-without-breaking-upper-bolts-1707306.html
 
#7 ·
Get a good set of 6 point sockets. You'll round less bolts.

Read the entire thread below before you embark on the rear bolts. The fronts can be cut off. Not so lucky with the rears. Sadly, you can see many who still think the solution is to break them by impacting them out without soaking in penetrant. They then offer up all kinds of solutions of how to fix the broken parts. If only they had followed the lessons learned.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/b...ock-without-breaking-upper-bolts-1707306.html
Noob raises hand "Guilty of a shiny set of kobalt 12 point, 1/2 drive sockets" enough leverage to round any bolt. learning, thank you, that second thread is super helpful, I didn't know ATF was as good or better than the box store liquid wrench products, very helpful.
 
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