Jeep Wrangler Forum banner

Highline fenders instead of a lift?

16K views 32 replies 14 participants last post by  Plumber1 
#1 ·
Was talking Jeeps with a buddy of mine and he was talking about running the Metal Cloak front overline tube fender and the 6" rear flare with 35's and no lift? Maybe 1.25" BL? Has anyone heard of or done something like this before? At first I kind of laughed but then it seemed like a great idea...
 
#2 ·
First off, Metalcloak fenders aren't highline. They do not move the hoodline, which is the major limiting factor. They only move the exterior of fender & flares, which does help give some clearance, basically the same as you can get by trimming the fenders & running no flares...but it's still not as much clearance as actual highline fenders.

Second, the point of a lift should be to gain suspension travel. If you don't want or need more travel, then yes, actual highline fenders would be one way to fit larger tires under your Jeep. But also keep in mind you'll still need the supporting mods to handle the larger tires like gears, speedo correction and brake/steering upgrades.
 
#3 ·
I ran MC Overlines with 35's and no lift for about a year. I was getting a very slight amount of rubbing when fully stuffed and crossed up, but not enough to worry about. My suspension was getting tired and starting to sag, which may have accounted for at least some of the rubbing. I recently installed an OME 2.5" lift which eliminated the rubbing and gave me just a bit more uptravel. I'm liking it.

Before and after the lift (and don't even ask about the tow hooks in the second pic):



 
#5 ·
For clearance a HighLine does add clearance and improve articulation without modifying the suspension. Even the MetalCloak "HighLine" does this. Although the hood remains stock when you flex and articulate the major area of interference is the outside lip of the flare. The MC fenders raise that point. When you flex one tire drops, one rises up. The angle means there is no need to raise the hood.

There are HighLine choices which will give more clearance than the MC but the MC is a huge improvement over stock

A 4" lift gives the same clearance as a 2" lift plus a HighLine. BUT with the combo lift/highline your centre of gravity remains lower and you might be able to keep your driveline stock.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Let's not confuse types of clearances here... a 2" lift plus a Highline may give the tire 4" additional clearance around the tire but it still only gives 2" of additional ground clearance. A 4" suspension lift gives 4" additional tire clearance and 4" additional ground clearance. If you're doing trails more difficult than easy mostly level trails, 4" of suspension lift will work better than 2" of suspension lift.

To me, a low COG build with minimal suspension lift build only works well on easier trails that don't have a lot of significant obstacles to make it over. Beginners seem to gravitate to the COG theory since they're sweating rollovers which isn't nearly the issue that some fear it to be.
 
#8 ·
There is a balance between clearance and centre of gravity and no one solution works for all. Me I like a bit more stability for speed and no I do not "rock crawl". Jerry, I've seen what you can do to a wheel and for your wheeling yeah, break over is an issue. Me, I rarely drag the frame/skidplate. Most of my obstacles are logs... and a chainsaw solves that issue.

Everyone has different needs. And build it accordingly.
 
#9 ·
Once i get the funds in june, I plan on getting a set of poison spyder defender negative fenders highland version. I wasn't planning on getting the highland but after looking at the amount of clearance in the wheel well I'm going to gain i think its worth it. Im moving up to a 3" currie lift for this year, maybe next year i will get the 4" springs to put in. Im looking for the most flex kit I can get
 
#10 ·
Right on. ^^^ I call that the best way to get it all. Right now I have a HighLine with a 2"BB. But I am looking for a 2"-3" lift to replace the BB.

Here is my TJR with 33s, AEV HighLine and no lift. Completely stock suspension.
 
#12 ·
Do you have a shot of the hood cut?
Right now i have a 2" bds and 1.25bl on 33s. My suspension is limited by the shocks, but since I want to do all new control arms and everything, Im pretty set on just getting the currie 3". That way ill have 4" of lift total, and i believe ill have a well built rig



It does pretty good with 33s and 3" of lift
 
#13 ·
The hood is the AEV HighLine...

There is a TJ build thread on Jeep Forum from someone who cut theirs. Basically the AEV one lines up with cowl line.

I just went to the AEV site and they no longer sell anything for the TJ. Wonderful support. Love to hear from the guys who spent $100K on their JK Brutes in 10 years when AEV drops everything JK/JKU.
 
#14 ·
Oh ok, i will be cutting mine
 
#15 ·
I have a 3" SL and a 1.25" BL with Rokmen Hi-Lines. Travel was decent with standard tube fenders but I still had some rubbing. I haven't had a chance to take it out since the Hi-Lines but rubbing is no longer an issue and I feel that my COG is low enough. I think this setup will do me well for a while.



 
#17 · (Edited)
I've posted this photo of a Jeeper I know here once or twice but it's a good illustration of just how far a non-LCG TJ can get over on its side without rolling flopping or rolling.

Building a LCG for looks is one thing and fine, building a LCG because of excessive fears of a rollover from insufficient offroad experience is quite another.

 
#20 ·
As I've mentioned before when you posted this photo - that rig actually meets all the requirements for a LCG rig, IMHO. It's a great example of maximizing suspension travel and clearance with comparatively big tires. Heck, it's even got highline fenders...and we're in a thread about highline fenders...so how can you discount LCG when you yourself post the picture of a LCG rig with highline fenders? :rolleyes:

Here's the build specs for anyone interested:
Everyone is a critic, critique this one.
 
#22 ·
That rig is taller than 4" over stock for sure. But as I recall it's running something like 39" sticky crawlers, and some obscene amount of travel front and rear with the coil-overs and massive amounts of fabrication.

By comparison most TJ's needs major mods & fabrication to fit 35" tires on 4" of lift with 12" of travel (outboarded shock mounts).

LCG for 35" tires is generally considered 3" or below, with major body mods...and assuming a good 50/50-ish travel ratio.

Extrapolate the same logic and LCG for 38s-40s is in the 4" lift range. The blue rig is a LCG rig when you consider everything involved, and a very nice one at that.
 
#24 ·
I can agree with the last 2 posts. Being a "new" wheeler I'm still learning. I went up my first double black trail 3 years ago in a 2006 tj 4" currie lift, 5:13 gears, 5 speed and it worked very very well. Cut to my 2006 LJ that came with, 5.5" RE long arm, auto, 5:13's, sitting much higher it was downright scary off camber. Once Dave lowered it 2 1/2", blah blah blah, outboard it works night and day difference. Off camber so much easier and makes wheeling hard stuff fun. Lcg I believe is the best way but also believe you need at least a good amount of lift to really play hard. As said still learning but my experience as of now leads me to believe,,,,, always hi line! Save your money, do it right the first time!
 
#25 ·
...Cut to my 2006 LJ that came with, 5.5" RE long arm, auto, 5:13's, sitting much higher it was downright scary off camber
Keep in mind RE's 5.5" height is always closer to 6.5" which is stupid-tall, too tall which would indeed be scary. Not to mention their long-arm suspension doesn't have a great reputation. My previous TJ had that suspension and it did nothing but cause me problems when on the rocks.
 
#29 ·
I've been a lurker for a while. This is my first post. I was sold on the LCG theory after seeing my brother's TJ on tons and 40's with hardly any lift tackle some good obstacles. The progress I have made on my own TJ is greatly due to inspiration from his Jeep. So far I'm at 2" spring lift, 1" body, and highline fenders. I 4-linked the rear and am planning to 3-link the front. I am running 35" MT/R tires.

My issue now is that in order to take full advantage of the highlines, and keep a 50/50 travel ratio, I need to move the shock mounts up. I have everything needed to outboard my rears, but I'm hesitant and trying to find a solution without cutting my frame.
 

Attachments

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top