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Old 11-15-2011, 10:19 AM   #1
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Home Coolant Flush Report

Home Coolant Flush Report

My Wrangler only has 70,000. The coolant system looked clean. I thought I would flush it before winter.

I pretty much took all the good things I read about coolant flushing and put them together. So all of this is regurgitated info, I don't take credit for it.

My manual says to use HOAT coolant. After doing some research I got some Valvoline G-05 compatible coolant at Napa. My manual says my coolant system takes 10.5 quarts of fluid. So if I mix 50/50 I will use 5.25 quarts coolant and 5.25 quarts distilled water.

I am not a mechanic. This is just documentation of what I did. What you do is your own deal.

Supplies
  • 2 gals of G-05 coolant
  • 2 gals distilled water
  • Prestone Super Flush Fluid
  • Prestone Flush 'N Fill Kit
  • Large drain pan
  • 3' of 1.5" ID clear plastic tube. I think it was 1.5".
  • Coolant mixture tester
  • Garden hose with running water
Drain Radiator

1. Put heater on high. Leave engine off.
2. When system is cool remove radiator cap.
3. Open radiator drain petcock and drain radiator. Capture coolant in drain pan.
4. Flush some water through the radiator with a garden hose.

I'm telling ya, my petcock opened without a hitch! When I was a teenager in the 90's I remember how stuck they could get in brass radiators.

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Flush Heater Core

1. Found on the heater core inlet hose where I wanted the TEE fitting. Made 2 cuts removing a 3/4" section. This helps make up for the width of the TEE.
2. Mated garden hose to heater core side of hose and flushed. The coolant will come out the radiator drain. Capture coolant.
3. Disconnected the heater core outlet hose and reverse flush the heater core.

Use the clear plastic tube to direct any coolant flushed from heater core hoses into drain pan.

Flush Engine Block

1. Mated garden hose to engine block side of heater core inlet hose and flushed. The coolant will come out the radiator drain. Capture coolant in drain pan.

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Finish With Heater Core Hoses
1. Install TEE in the already cut heater core inlet hose. Leave the cap off.
2. Reconnect the heater core outlet hose.

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Clean Overfill Tank
1. Remove tank.
2. Clean tank.
3. Install tank.

Back Flush
1. Attached garden hose to TEE via the hose coupler.
2. Turned on garden hose water. Not all the way, just enough so a steady stream of water is pouring out the radiator.
3. Started engine and made sure heater is on all the way. Let idle.
4. Watched the water flow out of the radiator drain. Once draining water was clear or after 5 minutes, whichever is longer, I shut off engine.
5. Turned off garden hose water.
6. Detached garden hose and coupler from TEE.
7. Flushed some water through the radiator.
8. When radiator fully drained I shut radiator drain.

At this point there should be no coolant in system.

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Flush Chemical
1. Added flush chemical to radiator.
2. Filled radiator with garden hose water.
3. When water started coming out of the TEE opening I put its cap on. My flush kit said there was a cap seal, I don't remember seeing one.
4. Started engine and made sure heater is on all the way. Let idle.
5. Squeezed the upper radiator hose a few times trying to expel any trapped air.
6. Made sure radiator was full of water and installed radiator cap. Instructions say to wait until you see water circulating before installing radiator cap. I didn't for some reason.
7. Ran engine for 10 minutes after it hit running temperature.
8. Stopped engine and let cool.
9. Removed radiator cap and opened radiator drain. Removed TEE cap. Let radiator drain. Captured chemical in drain pan.
10. Connected garden hose to TEE and flushed some water through.
11. Disconnected garden hose from TEE and flushed some water through the radiator.
12. After radiator finished draining I closed its drain. Repeated steps 2-11.

Back Flush Again
1. Followed steps above for back flushing.

At this point there should be no coolant or flush chemical in system.

Filling With Coolant
1. Added 5.25 quarts straight coolant to radiator. Topped off with distilled water.
2. Once coolant started coming out the TEE I screwed on its cap.
3. Filled coolant reservoir half way between Full and Add lines with premixed coolant/distilled water.
4. Started engine and let idle.
5. Squeezed the upper radiator hose a few times trying to expel any trapped air.
6. Made sure radiator was full of water and installed radiator cap. Instructions say to wait until you see water circulating before installing radiator cap. I didn't for some reason.
7. Ran engine for 20 minutes after it reached running temp.
8. Checked for leaks.
9. Stopped engine and let cool.
10. Checked coolant level and mixture ratio.

All Done!
Now wasn't that rewarding?

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Old 11-15-2011, 10:36 AM   #2
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Excellent tutorial! This one needs to be a sticky!

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Old 11-15-2011, 10:52 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by ipleadda2nd View Post
[SIZE=4][B]My manual says my coolant system takes 10.5 quarts of fluid. So if I mix 50/50 I will use 5.25 quarts coolant and 5.25 quarts distilled water.
Trapped flushing water will further dilute a 50/50 mixture.
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Old 11-15-2011, 12:00 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
Trapped flushing water will further dilute a 50/50 mixture.
Exactly! That's why I put in 5.25 quarts of coolant in radiator and just topped off with distilled water. I estimate there was around 4 quarts of water still in system. That means I only used around 1.25 quarts of distilled. If I had thought of a way to remove all the tap water I would only have distilled, which is preferable.
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Old 11-15-2011, 12:11 PM   #5
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What did you use to cut the heater hose to make it nice and clean?

What do you do with all the fluid that you have drained into the pans...take it to Autozone for recycling?

Can you use regular old Prestone 50/50 instead of the HOAT? I need to do this so I greatly appreciate your write up.
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Old 11-15-2011, 12:21 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doolyd
What did you use to cut the heater hose to make it nice and clean?

What do you do with all the fluid that you have drained into the pans...take it to Autozone for recycling?

Can you use regular old Prestone 50/50 instead of the HOAT? I need to do this so I greatly appreciate your write up.
I just did a flush on my jeep HOAT is hard to find around me. Pepboys autozone and advance doesn't care HOAT and the dealer wants to much for it so I just used prestone. I'm sure it's fine people use it all the time.. Guess everyone has their own opinion if I had HOAT around me and wasn't do hard to find I would use that but I'm not paying an arm and a leg at the dealer or trying to travel the world looking for it. Just my 2 cents tho. Sure people would disagree with me.
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Old 11-15-2011, 12:23 PM   #7
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Seems like what you removed was pretty damn clean to me!
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Old 11-15-2011, 12:59 PM   #8
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I have also read of failures in the T that comes with the kit. Has anyone had one installed for a long time without issue? It seems you are adding two more failure points to your system and the plastic T can't hold up to the heat?
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Old 11-15-2011, 02:19 PM   #9
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What did you use to cut the heater hose to make it nice and clean?
I used a utility knife. I'm sure there are better ways. I was very careful not to cut myself, since it took quite a bit of force.

Quote:
Originally Posted by doolyd View Post
Can you use regular old Prestone 50/50 instead of the HOAT? I need to do this so I greatly appreciate your write up.
On other threads people said regular ethylene-glycol is fine. I happen to find some HOAT at Napa and thought why not?

Quote:
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I have also read of failures in the T that comes with the kit. Has anyone had one installed for a long time without issue? It seems you are adding two more failure points to your system and the plastic T can't hold up to the heat?
Napa sells their own brand of TEEs. It appeared to be a little stronger. I actually used it instead of the one that came with the Prestone kit.
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Old 11-15-2011, 02:21 PM   #10
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You never drained the block. If you had you could get all distilled water in there.
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Old 11-15-2011, 02:28 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by ipleadda2nd View Post


On other threads people said regular ethylene-glycol is fine. I happen to find some HOAT at Napa and thought why not?


HOAT is 95% ethylene glycol. It's the remaining 5% that makes it different.
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Old 11-15-2011, 03:46 PM   #12
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You never drained the block. If you had you could get all distilled water in there.
Is there a way of doing that without removing a core plug?
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Old 11-15-2011, 04:53 PM   #13
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There is a drain plug on the block, under the intake/exhaust manifolds.
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Old 11-15-2011, 05:26 PM   #14
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There is a drain plug on the block, under the intake/exhaust manifolds.
I can't believe I didn't know that! To late now....
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Old 11-21-2011, 06:27 PM   #15
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I can't believe I didn't know that! To late now....
Do you have any idea how much distilled water you "topped it off" with? I just flushed mine and put 5 quarts straight antifreeze and was only able to get 2 quarts of distilled which seems to mean there was 3.5 quarts of water left in the system which is most likely tap water. This excludes the overflow tank.
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Old 11-21-2011, 06:30 PM   #16
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You can by 50/50 premixed. Just saves some time and measuring.
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:42 AM   #17
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Do you have any idea how much distilled water you "topped it off" with? I just flushed mine and put 5 quarts straight antifreeze and was only able to get 2 quarts of distilled which seems to mean there was 3.5 quarts of water left in the system which is most likely tap water. This excludes the overflow tank.
I was only able to put about 2 quarts in as well. The engine drain plug mentioned above would help solve that.
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:49 AM   #18
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I was only able to put about 2 quarts in as well. The engine drain plug mentioned above would help solve that.
Well I read on here that the block only held a pint and according to what I put in there was still 3.5 quarts of water left in the system. Not sure if that is all in the block but definitely more than I had anticipated. Getting the block plug out is a PITA.
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Old 11-22-2011, 12:00 PM   #19
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You did a better than average job.
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Old 11-23-2011, 11:19 AM   #20
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Well I read on here that the block only held a pint and according to what I put in there was still 3.5 quarts of water left in the system. Not sure if that is all in the block but definitely more than I had anticipated. Getting the block plug out is a PITA.
I hear ya! I guess I choose tap water in the system over removing a core plug.

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You did a better than average job.
Thanks!
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Old 02-23-2012, 04:56 PM   #21
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Reviving this one from the dead

Do you know what NAPA Part you used for the beefier tee? I'm pricing everything out now and they seem to have a bunch of these online

NAPA AUTO PARTS
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Old 02-24-2012, 08:54 AM   #22
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Reviving this one from the dead

Do you know what NAPA Part you used for the beefier tee? I'm pricing everything out now and they seem to have a bunch of these online

NAPA AUTO PARTS
No problem!

I don't remember. What I do remember is:
  1. It's black and not a universal fit. It was sized for a specific hose size.
  2. It's the correct size for the heater core inlet hose. What size is that? I don't remember. I do know it's bigger than the heater core outlet hose.
So I would find out the size of the heater core inlet hose and get the appropriate sized Napa TEE. Make sure you get the adapter to connect a garden hose to the TEE. The yellow thing pictured here:
NAPA AUTO PARTS

Just remember, that link goes to a universal fit TEE. I used one specific to the hose size.
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Old 02-24-2012, 11:11 AM   #23
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Is there a way of doing that without removing a core plug?
if you don't want to drain the block, the other way to do it is fill the entire system with only distilled water, get the Jeep warm...go for a drive, whatever. now drain it. if you want to be real thorough, you can rinse and repeat as many times as you like.

now, just like you did, refill with straight coolant, then top it off with distilled water.

the idea is to just dilute the mineral concentration a bunch....so the more rinse & repeats, the more dilute the mineral concentration from the tap water.
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Old 03-28-2012, 07:42 AM   #24
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There is a drain plug on the block, under the intake/exhaust manifolds.
Thanks for posting this pic - I never would have found the drain plug by myself.
On my '97, the plug is in a slightly different position but was easy to work out from the posted pic.

What's not obvious though is how to loosen the drain plug. I thought a square drive on a ratchet would fit - but unfortunately not.
1/4 is too small and 3/8 is too big.
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:19 PM   #25
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Thanks for posting this pic - I never would have found the drain plug by myself.
On my '97, the plug is in a slightly different position but was easy to work out from the posted pic.

What's not obvious though is how to loosen the drain plug. I thought a square drive on a ratchet would fit - but unfortunately not.
1/4 is too small and 3/8 is too big.
So what did you use to remove the engine block drain plug?
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Old 08-15-2012, 02:44 AM   #26
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Decided to flush my coolant system and replace system with zerex while I was changing my thermostat. What I did was spray water down the thermostat housing while the t stat was removed till the fluid came out clear at the radiator drain. Now my question is was this a proper way to have flushed the system? Do I have to be worried about any old coolant in my heater core since I did not flush it in the way I've read when people use those flush n fill kits?
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Old 08-15-2012, 10:03 AM   #27
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Old 08-15-2012, 09:00 PM   #28
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Do I have to be worried about any old coolant in my heater core since I did not flush it in the way I've read when people use those flush n fill kits?
No kit required. Just disconnect the heater hoses at the thermostat housing and water pump. To back flush, use hose that connects to water pump.
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Old 08-15-2012, 10:06 PM   #29
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Yep, just the way I did it. Not fond of cutting any hoses, and not putting any city water in my block. Drained, filled with distilled, drove with heater on high; repeat; repeat; fill with 5.25 qts HOAT then top with distilled. Bingo

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Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
if you don't want to drain the block, the other way to do it is fill the entire system with only distilled water, get the Jeep warm...go for a drive, whatever. now drain it. if you want to be real thorough, you can rinse and repeat as many times as you like.

now, just like you did, refill with straight coolant, then top it off with distilled water.

the idea is to just dilute the mineral concentration a bunch....so the more rinse & repeats, the more dilute the mineral concentration from the tap water.
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Old 08-24-2012, 09:28 AM   #30
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Reviving this dead thread again.

Orange HAOT coolant is available at Amazon.com. It's even cheaper than buying a quality green coolant at an auto parts store. It's even free shipping and tax free.

It's NOT the same stuff! Yeah, It's 95% glycol but the other 5% is rust inhibitors specific to the metals used in these cooling systems. Mainly aluminum and cast alloys.
It doesn't make sense not to use it.

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