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Old 04-02-2012, 09:49 PM   #1
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How do you know if the radiator has

The right amount of coolant?


Today when I was back from work, I heard a weird sound coming from the engine... Looked by the radiator and it was leaking coolant.. Opened the hood and found a leak in a hose...



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The top of the radiator is loose so I guess the vibration was moving the hose until it let air escape.. I touched the hose and I felt like if the coolant was boiling.. Checked the coolant reservoir and it was almost empty... I believe I was right on time before it completely drained ... Coolant temperature gauge was never high..

I got the hose back in its position real tight and removed the radiator cap, i saw coolant there.. My question is, how would I know if the radiator has the right amount of coolant and if it's taken coolant from the reservoir as it has to...

I ask cause i remember a car I had, the reservoir was always full but the radiator was not pulling coolant from it...

I let the car on idle for a while, drove like 2 miles, the problem was corrected, no more boiling water sound any more

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Old 04-02-2012, 10:14 PM   #2
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When it's totally cool, fill the reservoir to the full mark and the level in the rad should be just under the filler neck.

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Old 04-02-2012, 10:16 PM   #3
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If you're sure that you fixed the leak, just make sure the radiator is full & put the cap back on. Add water/coolant to the reservoir cold fill level & check the level at the reservoir after you drive it for a while. The radiator will not draw coolant from the reservoir if the cooling system is not sealed.
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:29 PM   #4
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It may just be the way the pic is, but that hose looks like it's bulging slightly. New hoses are much cheaper than a new engine, I'd change them if you're not sure how old they are.
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Old 04-02-2012, 11:02 PM   #5
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All comments received and noted.. Didnt show you the piece that is making the radiator to move and vibrate.. I think it may have been like that for a while causing the hose to finally move and create the leak... Need to fix it..

In general all hoses seems to be old, good time to start replacing them..

Ty!
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Old 04-02-2012, 11:17 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveCR View Post
In general all hoses seems to be old, good time to start replacing them..

Ty!
Good thinking - and keep your old hoses for emergency spares.
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Old 04-03-2012, 04:46 AM   #7
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The recovery tank is actually more what you might call an "expansion tank"

In the days before recovery tanks, you left an airspace above the water line in the radiator..You NEVER filled a radiator to the top like today...In fact many radiators had a raised reference line stamped into teh upper rad tank showing where water level shoud be on cold engine....As engine heated up, pressure in rad would increase and level rise as water swelled in volume...if initial level was too high, then rad cap would lift and relieve excess water to ground via simple rubber hose.

Today, if equipped with recovery bottle, you first fill rad to top, then fill recovery bottle to cold mark.....Once engine is heated up to normal temps the level in recovery tank should read well above cold water line and raditor still max full.

Cold or hot, with a recovery bottle installed, the radiator should always be full to point water spills over spout neck when you install rad cap

And yeah, like the guy said, the system needs to be air tight or it won'twork properly.

As designed, and with tight system and full radiator, as engine warms the rad cap lifts and sends heated-expanded excess water to recovery tank via hose from cap neck to recovery tank...Then when engine cools and tank pressure decreases, excess water from hot rad captured in recovery will be sucked back into radiator via same cap thru and hose on cap neck.

So therefore, when operated and maintained properly, the raditor will always be totally full and level in tank will never be dry when cold, nor above full mark when hot....Thats why recovery tank is vented whereas radiator is not...The level in recovery tank is expected to change and should as engine water temp changes.
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Old 04-03-2012, 08:02 AM   #8
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If you are changing hoses I suggest you change the upper, lower and heater hoses while u have the coolant out of the radiator....personally I changed the thermostat, gasket and put a new radiator cap all at the same time, I have a 2000 TJ and it runs below 210 consistently now! Oh yeah that TPS switch engine light will come on when it gets hot but remember at that point "NO" water going thru the motor...ouch!
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Old 04-03-2012, 10:10 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002TJ View Post
The recovery tank is actually more what you might call an "expansion tank"

In the days before recovery tanks, you left an airspace above the water line in the radiator..You NEVER filled a radiator to the top like today...In fact many radiators had a raised reference line stamped into teh upper rad tank showing where water level shoud be on cold engine....As engine heated up, pressure in rad would increase and level rise as water swelled in volume...if initial level was too high, then rad cap would lift and relieve excess water to ground via simple rubber hose.

Today, if equipped with recovery bottle, you first fill rad to top, then fill recovery bottle to cold mark.....Once engine is heated up to normal temps the level in recovery tank should read well above cold water line and raditor still max full.

Cold or hot, with a recovery bottle installed, the radiator should always be full to point water spills over spout neck when you install rad cap

And yeah, like the guy said, the system needs to be air tight or it won'twork properly.

As designed, and with tight system and full radiator, as engine warms the rad cap lifts and sends heated-expanded excess water to recovery tank via hose from cap neck to recovery tank...Then when engine cools and tank pressure decreases, excess water from hot rad captured in recovery will be sucked back into radiator via same cap thru and hose on cap neck.

So therefore, when operated and maintained properly, the raditor will always be totally full and level in tank will never be dry when cold, nor above full mark when hot....Thats why recovery tank is vented whereas radiator is not...The level in recovery tank is expected to change and should as engine water temp changes.
Great info ! tx for sharing

I filled the reservoir last night when it was cool.. today got to work and checked after a while.. radiator is to the top and reservoir was a bit low, so I just re filled.. checked the hose again, all good..
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Old 04-03-2012, 10:29 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6rings View Post
If you are changing hoses I suggest you change the upper, lower and heater hoses while u have the coolant out of the radiator....personally I changed the thermostat, gasket and put a new radiator cap all at the same time, I have a 2000 TJ and it runs below 210 consistently now! Oh yeah that TPS switch engine light will come on when it gets hot but remember at that point "NO" water going thru the motor...ouch!
roger that!
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Old 04-03-2012, 10:37 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveCR View Post
The right amount of coolant?


Today when I was back from work, I heard a weird sound coming from the engine... Looked by the radiator and it was leaking coolant.. Opened the hood and found a leak in a hose...



Attachment 110560

The top of the radiator is loose so I guess the vibration was moving the hose until it let air escape.. I touched the hose and I felt like if the coolant was boiling.. Checked the coolant reservoir and it was almost empty... I believe I was right on time before it completely drained ... Coolant temperature gauge was never high..

I got the hose back in its position real tight and removed the radiator cap, i saw coolant there.. My question is, how would I know if the radiator has the right amount of coolant and if it's taken coolant from the reservoir as it has to...

I ask cause i remember a car I had, the reservoir was always full but the radiator was not pulling coolant from it...

I let the car on idle for a while, drove like 2 miles, the problem was corrected, no more boiling water sound any more
Your hose looks really short, which could be part of your problem too. It should go almost all the way to where the fitting comes out of the radiator...

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