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Old 02-23-2014, 12:05 PM   #1
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How many cans to spray fenders?

I'm getting ready to paint the fares on my '06 TJ. Will probably also touch up all the other faded parts while I'm at it. Still trying to decide between bedlining and using Krylon Fusion. Right now, I'm leaning towards the Krylon. The question I have that will determine the outcome is: how many cans of spray will I need to finish all 4 flares?

If there's a significant cost difference between the two, then I'll make a choice based on that. If it's pretty similar then I'll figure it out based on other stuff.

For example, I'll probably paint all the other faded parts like the hood hinges, mirrors, license plate holder, etc...

Is there a better product to use for those other parts or would either the Krylon/bedliner work for all of those parts?

Thanks in advance.

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Old 02-23-2014, 12:14 PM   #2
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Krylon is probably almost 1/2 the price of bedliner and what I would prefer. Alot smoother and easier to deal with for painting and touchup. I use that for everything and 4 cans is more than plenty with extra for other small projects or touchups.

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Old 02-23-2014, 12:23 PM   #3
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Great. That's what I needed to know. Thanks
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Old 02-23-2014, 03:18 PM   #4
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Agree with the 4 cans - just recommend satin
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Old 02-23-2014, 05:08 PM   #5
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I did mine a few months ago and only had 2 cans with some left over. I did all 4 flares and front & back milk jugs. I left everything on the Jeep and just masked it off. The only prep I did was clean and then use ammonia, per krylon instructions. It looks great and has no wear yet.
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Old 02-23-2014, 06:45 PM   #6
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I used just under two cans for the six flare pieces.

There's more than one kind of Krylon. Make sure you're getting Krylon Fusion. It's made specifically for plastic.

I pulled my flares off instead of hassling with taping things off. If you do the same, get a ratcheting wrench and a set of needle nose pliers. It'll make removal and reattach meant so much easier.

I've painted other parts here and there as I've had the opportunity to pull them off. The rear plate holder is next this spring.
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Old 02-23-2014, 09:42 PM   #7
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If price is the issue, I bed lined my fenders with 2 cans of the Harbor Freight brand. Used the coupon, got my free flashlight, and it was essentially the same price as the Krylon. The fenders have weathered 6 months CT weather and look great. When I krylon'd something once it peeled on me pretty bad. Based on my experience with the two I'd use the HF stuff again without question.
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Old 02-23-2014, 11:11 PM   #8
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When I krylon'd something once it peeled on me pretty bad.
Are you sure you used Fusion? Did you prep the surface properly, per the label instructions?

My flares are going through their second Chicago winter. This year's winter is record setting in both cold and snowfall. My painted flares are still going strong.
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Old 02-24-2014, 11:45 AM   #9
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Krylon also makes a Bumper / Trim paint. I used less than one can just doing the flairs.
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Old 02-24-2014, 11:51 AM   #10
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4 cans seems like a lot of paint for just a couple of flares. How many coats are you guys putting on? I would say 2 would be more than plenty.
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Old 02-24-2014, 11:52 AM   #11
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I hit my fenders with a propane torch. Turned out pretty good, and no concern about needing to repaint, flaking, etc.
I definitely would not use the rattle can spray bedliner stuff. I used it on a cooler and it flaked off. Works fine on steel, though, since steel doesn't deform as easily.
Krylon Fusion for plastic should work well too.
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Old 02-24-2014, 12:17 PM   #12
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I used the rattle can bed liner on mine. I would NOT recommend. It is very hard to get clean if you get mud on it and now it's flaking off. I'll be redoing them with Fusion in the future.
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Old 02-24-2014, 04:32 PM   #13
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I did mine with the Rustoleum rattlecan from Wally World. I used less than 1 can, $7. I think I bought 2 cans, did flares, steps, both stock bumpers, gas intake insert, etc. I think prep may have something to do with it too (I used a degreasing dish soap myself). I did mine a year ago. The only issue I have had in any of those locations was I got a little bit of wax on them and had a tough time getting it off. I have pressure washed it all several times, and the mud comes right off, no issues. I even busted one pretty badly, and the paint is not coming off at all...
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Old 02-24-2014, 05:16 PM   #14
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try krylon first because it is cheaper and you can always bedline it afterwards if you would like. But going from bedlining to krylon will be a lot tougher.
Thanks
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Old 02-24-2014, 06:16 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffreybomb View Post

Are you sure you used Fusion? Did you prep the surface properly, per the label instructions?

My flares are going through their second Chicago winter. This year's winter is record setting in both cold and snowfall. My painted flares are still going strong.
Oh yeah it was fusion. It didn't seem to cure correctly and has a kind of tacky finish even days later. Granted it was Red and that color always has some quirks to it. I didn't use it on fenders. It was actually to paint my pink Ruger LCP something a bit more manly.
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:23 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by WeekenderATX View Post
I hit my fenders with a propane torch. Turned out pretty good, and no concern about needing to repaint, flaking, etc.
I definitely would not use the rattle can spray bedliner stuff. I used it on a cooler and it flaked off. Works fine on steel, though, since steel doesn't deform as easily.
Krylon Fusion for plastic should work well too.
What is this propane torch technique you speak of? I've never heard of it. But being somewhat of a pyro I usually never need an excuse to torch something, so needless to say I'm interested.
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:29 PM   #17
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What is this propane torch technique you speak of? I've never heard of it. But being somewhat of a pyro I usually never need an excuse to torch something, so needless to say I'm interested.
Take a small bottle propane torch (not a huge torch you pyro) and put the flame to your fenders and move it fast back and forth you will notice the color almost return to 'factory' and the spots you haven't hit yet are still faded , obviously be cautious of how long your holding the flame in one spot to not melt the plastic
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:40 PM   #18
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Pretty neat. I'll practice on the milk jug bumper end caps first and if I burn them ill just take them off.
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:53 PM   #19
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Do you think a heat gun would work similarly? Or is the flame burning off the oxidation in the plastic?
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:28 PM   #20
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Do you think a heat gun would work similarly? Or is the flame burning off the oxidation in the plastic?
I tried a heat gun takes along time , you'll be fine with propane torch , it's thick plastic so it won't melt like a plastic cup or something unless you really hold it for a while
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Old 02-24-2014, 11:08 PM   #21
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I didn't use it on fenders. It was actually to paint my pink Ruger LCP something a bit more manly.
Er, it's not really fair to say it "flakes" when you're not even painting flares with it.
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Old 02-25-2014, 11:37 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Jeffreybomb View Post

Er, it's not really fair to say it "flakes" when you're not even painting flares with it.
My point was that its "plastic paint" it peeled off an item that was plastic with the proper prep work. The OP was looking for experiences with it and that was my experience with it. Other posts in other threads have had similar experiences, the is one in particular about painting the dash that had pretty bad peel to it. After having it peel on me with my LCP I went a different route with using bedliner and that not only didn't peel, it is very sturdy and bonded very well, and gave a really nice texture IMO. But hey, to each their own.
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Old 02-25-2014, 01:02 PM   #23
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Heat gun works too. Takes longer, but easier to control heat direction and coverage. There are several youtube videos on this technique.
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Old 02-25-2014, 01:49 PM   #24
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Yeah I tried it with the propane torch on a small section of fender flare and it seemed to work perfectly. This weekend ill do everything.

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