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Old 09-26-2010, 05:09 PM   #1
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how to make a jeep more durable

what parts help make a jeep less prone to break on the trail...like preventative measure.. does a sye make a jeep more offroad worthy?

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Old 09-26-2010, 05:17 PM   #2
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Adding under body armor is the best way to protect things from breaking, Having a big honking rock hit any part of the drive train is bad. SYE's will only decrease the angle of your rear drive shaft which lessens the chance that you'll bind it up which could cause it to snap

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Old 09-26-2010, 05:20 PM   #3
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All depends on which Jeep your talking about & what type of wheeling you plan to do, all are pretty good but they all have their weaknesses. It's kind of a hard question to answer.
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Old 09-26-2010, 05:28 PM   #4
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2002 sahara 4.0
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Old 09-26-2010, 05:43 PM   #5
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In my opinion SYE is probably the most important. I've learned that the hard way. That's one common thing that can leave you stranded.
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Old 09-26-2010, 06:26 PM   #6
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What does/is a SYE do?
Just curious. Thanks.
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Old 09-26-2010, 07:27 PM   #7
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If you really want a durable Jeep don't wheel it. It will last forever. The preceding was a funny and should not be taken seriously.
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Old 09-26-2010, 09:19 PM   #8
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install a Hemi,Dana 60s front and rear,and you will be bullet-proof!
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Old 09-26-2010, 09:25 PM   #9
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What does/is a SYE do?
Just curious. Thanks.
The transfer case in a TJ has a slip yoke driveshaft where the driveshaft is the "male" piece that when suspension is compressed, pushes into the transfer case and vice versa... pulls out when at full flex.

Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) eliminates the slip inthe transfer case by locking the shaft in one position while all of the flex comes from an also purchased/built CV driveshaft.
Thus added strenth and will fix vibration for road driving when installed properly.

i know ttiwwp


Back to the OP: Skid plates and anything but a dana 35 rear axle oop:
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Old 09-27-2010, 12:10 AM   #10
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Ok guys call me hans gruber cuz Im going to hijack this thread. Ive got a rubi with a tc drop. I pretty sure I wouldnt be able to do the labor (sye install + cv ds´s to eliminate the tc drop) aside from parts how much would you guess in labor that would be?... also what are the first pieces of under armor to get. (Az = ROCKS) soo oil skidplate? diffs? gas tank skid? which are most important.

Ive got a slight DW at 48 mph. is there any chance in hell that getting rid the sye and cv´s could fix that. thanks
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Old 09-27-2010, 01:45 AM   #11
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Ok guys call me hans gruber cuz Im going to hijack this thread. Ive got a rubi with a tc drop. I pretty sure I wouldnt be able to do the labor (sye install + cv ds´s to eliminate the tc drop) aside from parts how much would you guess in labor that would be?... also what are the first pieces of under armor to get. (Az = ROCKS) soo oil skidplate? diffs? gas tank skid? which are most important.

Ive got a slight DW at 48 mph. is there any chance in hell that getting rid the sye and cv´s could fix that. thanks
I just got a 4.5 inch lift, slip yoke elim, new drive shaft and realignment done for 500 out the door. So I'd say labor for just that can't be any more than 100 if you find a good specialist. Don't quote me thou just my guess. And I think the sye and drive shaft along with a decent steering stabilizer should fick the wobble. I had a slight one at high speeds (60+) but now I can go 80 and it's as smooth as my gf's ml320. No joke
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Old 09-27-2010, 05:52 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EdJonesJeeper

The transfer case in a TJ has a slip yoke driveshaft where the driveshaft is the "male" piece that when suspension is compressed, pushes into the transfer case and vice versa... pulls out when at full flex.

Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) eliminates the slip inthe transfer case by locking the shaft in one position while all of the flex comes from an also purchased/built CV driveshaft.
Thus added strenth and will fix vibration for road driving when installed properly.

i know ttiwwp

Back to the OP: Skid plates and anything but a dana 35 rear axle oop:
Alright. Thanks man.
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Old 09-27-2010, 08:05 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by bobjenkins
Ok guys call me hans gruber cuz Im going to hijack this thread. Ive got a rubi with a tc drop. I pretty sure I wouldnt be able to do the labor (sye install + cv ds´s to eliminate the tc drop) aside from parts how much would you guess in labor that would be?... also what are the first pieces of under armor to get. (Az = ROCKS) soo oil skidplate? diffs? gas tank skid? which are most important.

Ive got a slight DW at 48 mph. is there any chance in hell that getting rid the sye and cv´s could fix that. thanks
Rubi already have sye and only with big lifts do u have to replace a longer driveshaft. Diff covers are very important and stock rubi rocksliders are poop. U already have tranny skid from factory and if I'm not mistaken a stronger gas tank skid.

None of Which cause dw. Switch tires front to back to see if prob persist.
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Old 09-27-2010, 08:47 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by bobjenkins View Post
Ok guys call me hans gruber cuz Im going to hijack this thread. Ive got a rubi with a tc drop. I pretty sure I wouldnt be able to do the labor (sye install + cv ds´s to eliminate the tc drop) aside from parts how much would you guess in labor that would be?... also what are the first pieces of under armor to get. (Az = ROCKS) soo oil skidplate? diffs? gas tank skid? which are most important.

Ive got a slight DW at 48 mph. is there any chance in hell that getting rid the sye and cv´s could fix that. thanks
Rubi's don't have a Slip yoke to Eliminate. You really shouldn't need a TC drop kit.

A guy who I consider to be very wise in the art of armoring a Jeep once told me to start from the bottom and work your way up.

DIffs are the lowest thing on the Jeep, most likely to get smacked. armor them.

Tie rod is hanging out in front of the diff pretty low, stock one is tiny, get a larger one.

The Steering Gear box is hanging off the front begging to be smashed up (its rather tough, but its in a spot that begs for issues with rocks) so add a plate for it.

Oil pan is important, if it receives a hole in it, it has problems working. and you are stranded.

Lower control arm mounts seem to get damaged, so armoring them can't hurt.

Rockers beg to get bashed up if you are crawling over large objects

gas tank has an OEM skid, but its 87% worthless - and many aftermarket skids add to your rear ground clearance.

Your vibration is likely a loose suspension component, or a tire in need of balancing.
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Old 09-27-2010, 09:55 AM   #15
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Sooo if i only have a 2" budget boost and a 1" body life and i were to purchase a sye do i need a to also purchase a dive shaft
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Old 09-27-2010, 10:17 AM   #16
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Sooo if i only have a 2" budget boost and a 1" body life and i were to purchase a sye do i need a to also purchase a dive shaft
Only rubis and jks have the sye from the factory. So yes if u have a reg old tj. But with ur setup if u have vibrations a tcase drop kit would b a much cheaper route. Lowers the tcase with simple bushings to correct angle. I'll sell u mine if needed.
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Old 09-27-2010, 10:39 AM   #17
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If you do a 2'' BB and a 1'' BL, also do the 1'' Motor mount lift. you likely won't need any sort of adjustment to the T-case skid

If you do, goto ACE hardware and buy a handful of washers...add washers until the vibes are gone. (in reality with a MML this shouldn't be necessary)

TO clarify on your question though, if you buy an SYE, you will have to change to a CV driveshaft.

and fwiw - Rubi's do not have an SYE, as there was never a SY to E...this is a common misquote, and Education of what these parts are seems to be needed for many.
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Old 09-27-2010, 10:48 AM   #18
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Ive got a slight DW at 48 mph.
There is no 'slight' for death wobble. When you have it, it's enough to shake the fillings outta your teeth.
Sounds more like outta balance tires or maybe wore out U-joint or loose suspension parts.

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