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Old 10-08-2013, 05:12 PM   #1
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How would you build it...the right way..

I have a 1997 TJ 4.0L 5 speed. I bought it last week because I wanted to build a toy for the trails and am too chicken to take my '14 JKUS on that kind of stuff since it's new.

The Jeep is essentially stock at the moment, other than a 2" budget boost and Spyder wheel spacers to run 17" JK wheels (previous owner install). I have been tinkering with it replacing common things like brake pads, repainted the flares etc

I am wanting to run 35" tires on 15" steel wheels.

I know I will need the obvious things such as an eventual regear front and back (4.88)

If you were going to run this setup, which parts would you pick to do the job right and also maintain a nice ride while on street. This will not necessarily be my daily driver, but I will be driving to my destinations to wheel.

I currently have no drive shaft, as the previous owner removed it when the jeep became his daily driver to attempt to maintain gas mileage.

So how do I know what size drive shaft I need? (front and rear?) Also are the SYE's pretty universal?

I am basically looking for a build sheet of what I would need to do the job right, or what parts you would use to build it correctly from stock. Listing brands are not important, just parts. Or feel free to link specific parts if you recommend them.

things such as control arms? steering tie rods...etc etc

Also consider that I will eventually have a heavier front and rear bumper and 35" spare on the rear.

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Old 10-08-2013, 05:37 PM   #2
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First thing I would do to run 35's is make sure the rearend is at least a Dana 44 or a Ford 8.8. Then I would get chromoly axle shafts for the D30. Upgrade the steering components.

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Old 10-08-2013, 05:37 PM   #3
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Savvy/Currie 4" JJ aluminum arms kit with antirock and a 1" body lift.

Currie Currectlync steering kit.

AA SYE and Tom Wood driveshaft
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Old 10-08-2013, 05:39 PM   #4
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To properly run 35s you should expect to spend in excess of $6,000. What is your budget?
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Old 10-08-2013, 05:45 PM   #5
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Quote:
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To properly run 35s you should expect to spend in excess of $6,000. What is your budget?
Budget is not an issue, as I bought this Jeep with plans to build it up. I will of course not be buying everything all at once, but I am planning to buy pieces at a time and set them aside, and start the build once I collect all of the parts. I plan to do this build over the course of the winter basically, as I have my other Jeep to drive for now, and have it ready by next spring to hit the trails.
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Old 10-08-2013, 05:46 PM   #6
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I have about 10K in my 97 and I am running 33's. I will step up to 35's when I wear out the tires on it now.

***10K for just the upgrades needed for 33's - 35's, not counting wheels and tires, seats, or other upgrades***

rear end upgrade to Ford 8.8 or Dana 44 (yours most likely is a Dana 35), regear, brake upgrade, steering upgrade, + lift and bumpstops, adj. control arms, SYE and CV driveshaft.
There is a great thread that I am sure someone will post a link to. 33's are nice and a lot less expensive, once you jump to 35's it gets quite expensive.

You can check out my profile a lot of good quality parts in it...
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Old 10-08-2013, 06:42 PM   #7
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Jeez...I was reading about the rear end upgrade. How necessary is it to have a Dana 44 in the rear for moderate trail riding (not rock crawling)?
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Old 10-08-2013, 06:46 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ed0985587 View Post
Jeez...I was reading about the rear end upgrade. How necessary is it to have a Dana 44 in the rear for moderate trail riding (not rock crawling)?

If you're going to be running 35's its extremely necessary...i have 35's and run a ford 8.8

when i did my 35's i did these upgrades all at once:

35" bfg's
ford 8.8
front chromoly shafts
4.88 gears
upper adjustable control arms front and rear
fixed lower control arms front and rear
adjustable track bars front and rear
new front brake lines
new front springs to level out from the rear 8.8
slip yoke elim
cv driveshaft

umm, i think that was it all at once...of course had prior lift and other things before i did these.

good luck, man
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Old 10-08-2013, 06:49 PM   #9
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Good grief...1997 jeep for sale...pm me

Haha j/k..
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Old 10-08-2013, 06:53 PM   #10
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I did these all last month as well lol...

you'll like the TJ better than your JK

but yeah...you'll get there...i'm attempting to build mine as a good cross between an onroader and offroader. So far its goin well but still plenty to go.

you can do a lot on 33's, though! Might just consider that option...
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Old 10-08-2013, 06:54 PM   #11
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Ok so would I benefit from going with a 4" short arm kit from teraflex over a standard 4" coil kit without the arms?

As far as shocks - I wanted to pair the bilstein 5100s with it since everyone seems to love them...will I need some sort of shock extensions to accommodate tje lift?

Do I need a certain length of cv drive shaft or are they all the same for the tj (specific tom wood part number?) Also any specific SYE or are the universal just different brands?
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Old 10-08-2013, 06:57 PM   #12
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Ya a buddy of ours runs 33s (although he has arb lockers) and he can go over almost anything.

It's not out of the question entirely, but I dont want to do it and decide later on I want to go bigger and have to start from scratch lol. I'd rather just invest what I need to in order to get the build I want and call it done.
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Old 10-08-2013, 08:42 PM   #13
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Also...when we're talking axle replacement, you're talking about Dana 44 / Ford 8.8 only in the reae right? Does the Dana 30 still work in the front or no?
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Old 10-08-2013, 09:55 PM   #14
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Wow...is it really about 3k per axle for a new Dana 44? That looks like with built in lockers...but I didn't realize it was that much. And I would need TWO of them for front and back?
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Old 10-08-2013, 10:09 PM   #15
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I'd definetly pass on the 3k a piece and do some more research, then swing by the local tool store on my route back from the junkyard
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Old 10-09-2013, 04:50 AM   #16
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The D30 is a good solid axle. The G2 is pricy. That is why I ended up going with the 8.8 axle. I bought mine from East Coast Gear Supply. (google this will take you to their website) I actually had them do the install and regear as well. I paid less for the rear, the regear of the front, the lift and labor for all than the base price of the G2

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