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Old 02-04-2007, 09:24 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockodile View Post
I was never to worried about it as it isn't a DD and the GPS has kept me from getting pulled over for speed. But spewing bs numbers is not a good thing to do even if it doesn't matter. The above mention of the gear was the first I had heard of, I had heard all the fellers over at ROF complaining about the stealership and recalibration but really wasn't paying all that much attention (foolish). My question would be if I can get to that part of the TCM with a Modis or is it only accessable with the manufacturers scan tool equipment? Once again I am not overly concerned, the mileage on the computer doesn't matter to me nor does speedo accuracy, as I will keep using my GPS. But it would be nice to be able to go and figure out what kind of mileage I am really getting as 14 MPG's is sounding false to you guys. I really don't have anyone with a similar set up to compare notes with so I was just going with most likely bad input data which brought bad output data into my post thus making me look like an dumbarse. :o

EDIT: Not that I have ever had a hard time looking like a dumbarse!!
I was not implying that you were wrong about your fuel economy, actually quite the opposite, as I know many people with >33's getting above 14 mpg. At stock I find I get 12 consistently, but I know that many get much better. GPS and tank volume are the best method for an accurate accounting of fuel economy, especially with our electronic odomoters and speedometers which it appeared that was what you were doing.

-Chuck

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Old 02-04-2007, 10:10 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRubiTJ View Post
I was not implying that you were wrong about your fuel economy, actually quite the opposite, as I know many people with >33's getting above 14 mpg. At stock I find I get 12 consistently, but I know that many get much better. GPS and tank volume are the best method for an accurate accounting of fuel economy, especially with our electronic odomoters and speedometers which it appeared that was what you were doing.

-Chuck
I was not implying that you were implying. But concidering that my stats are based on 1500-2K miles, it might be a good idea to check it out again. Instead I gave numbers that might not be correct, maybe I should have done a bit more research.

It is all good!!! No harm No foul in my book!!

Now that we have solved that lets get back to the Convict's situation as we are hijacking his thread.


By the way Convict.....I would second the comment to not touch an OME kit, based on my exp. and others that their springs are really soft....maybe too soft??

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Old 02-04-2007, 11:26 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by erickpl View Post
x2 what Andy said.

I bought the basic kit from DPG for my OME lift, but have since added the JKS Body and motor lift, JKS adjustable trackbars as well, so basically have the ultimate kit (I just did it a bit at a time) and am really only missing the adjustable control arms to have the super ultimate kit.

My onroad ride is EXCELLENT, and was one of my primary goals when doing my lift/upgrade. That it works great offroad is a great bonus! JKS and OME are excellent (OME is brought to this country by ARB, as is IPF lighting) and I've been extremely happy with the results.

That body lift and motor lift also set you up great for a belly up, if you choose to go THAT route down the road/trail.

Andy knows Dirk a LOT better than me, but as a customer, I have been EXTREMELY satisfied with any dealings with them.

I've heard great things about Northridge and their pricing is pretty good, but DPG is closer, so shipping is usually a REALLY good deal, and my wife is from Wichita, where he is based, so I support him.

One thing to keep in mind, if you are going to go to 35's, your Jeep will feel a serious power loss, even on a Rubicon. Regearing becomes an issue at that point and for the 4.0 engine, 4.56 is recommended for 33's and 4.88 for 35's. That can be a pricey upgrade if you can't do the differential regearing yourself. Figure about 1000 for that.

33's would be bearable at the stock 4.10's on your Rubicon, but you'd still feel a power hit. 33's, to me, are a great all around size. Big enough to look nice and aggressive and capable offroad, but not so big as to be a PITA to get in and out of the Jeep. If this is a daily driven Jeep, that is something to consider.

Here's my rig built with a LOT of DPG purchases.







In suspension lifts, you will get what you pay for. JKS/OME is not a cheap solution, but it is probably one of, if not the best solution out there.
hey just wondering where did you get your rear cornor gaurds. i really like them with the bar around them. thanks
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Old 02-05-2007, 06:07 AM   #34
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Question Which option?

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Originally Posted by Absolute Offroad View Post
This sounds like the same request I get from my local dealer that I do lifts for. I use a 2" Budget boost, 1" Motor mount lift and a 1" body lift. It will clear 33's and work pretty good off road also. Good points are the ride does not change at all (you keep stock shocks and springs) and the driveshaft does not vibe (hence the 1" Motor mount lift) No need for sway bar disconnects unless you want them. No need for a t-case drop either. I install about 3-4 of these set ups a month for a local dealer who "Does not want any problems" I have had none yet... Stay with the 33" tire and you wont have to re-gear either....
Ok, I WAS leaning towards a RE 3.5" Standard lift with 285's (33 x 10.5). I like what I hear about RE and the silver springs would actually match perfectly. The RE lift would run me about $570. If I went with your option I am finding that the 2" budget boost would run about $234, the 1" motor mount lift about $50, and the 1" body lift about $120. This would save me about $165. Would I be able to install this myself? Any special tools needed?

Which would be the "better" option. Which would look best and be less stress on the Jeep? Also, I was thinking about keeping the unused spare on the back (31") instead of upgrading to 33" in order to save a couple hundred beans. Any opinions on this?
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Old 02-05-2007, 07:41 AM   #35
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i went the OME HD/LJ route. have the BL and BMML stuff ready to go on, but not now.

then put 285/75/16 Toyo MTs on

washers on the steering stops to control some rub until the bl

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Old 02-05-2007, 08:05 AM   #36
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Trailblazer lift

Also stumbled across a full TJ trailblazer kit which sounds nice. Opinions on this?

http://www.rocky-road.com/tjtrailblazer.html
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Old 02-05-2007, 08:57 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by RUBICONVICT View Post
Ok, I WAS leaning towards a RE 3.5" Standard lift with 285's (33 x 10.5). I like what I hear about RE and the silver springs would actually match perfectly. The RE lift would run me about $570. If I went with your option I am finding that the 2" budget boost would run about $234, the 1" motor mount lift about $50, and the 1" body lift about $120. This would save me about $165. Would I be able to install this myself? Any special tools needed?

Which would be the "better" option. Which would look best and be less stress on the Jeep? Also, I was thinking about keeping the unused spare on the back (31") instead of upgrading to 33" in order to save a couple hundred beans. Any opinions on this?
you can do either one. for your use (not much offroading) i would definitely go the BB+1"BL/1"MML because it will look great and perform nicely on the road along with it being super cheap. you don't need the flex that the RE gives. i say if your just doing mild offroading then the BB+BL/MML will work fine and it will look about the same as RE...minus the spring color and the RE gives a little more height.

you can install it yourself and i see no need to go RE when this setup clears it fine for cheap and your not doing a lot of offroading. to keep a good ride though you should get some good shocks...so i recommend buying the spacers seperately so that you can pick your shocks. i'd buy the 2.25" spacers from 4 wheel customs (also comes with bumpstop extensions) and then i'd buy some OME shocks.
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Old 02-05-2007, 08:58 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by RUBICONVICT View Post
Also stumbled across a full TJ trailblazer kit which sounds nice. Opinions on this?

http://www.rocky-road.com/tjtrailblazer.html
this kit looks nice minus the shocks. but if your gonna spend that much i'd also do some research on the other kits like the OME kit from DPG.
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Old 02-05-2007, 10:35 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by 94redwrangler View Post
hey just wondering where did you get your rear cornor gaurds. i really like them with the bar around them. thanks

Toys by Troy side sliders and corner guards. Got them from www.4x4groupbuy.com.
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Old 02-05-2007, 09:27 PM   #40
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First off...234.00 for a Budget Boost??? The spacers would cost about 15-20 bucks each. You dont need the "full" Budget boost (with shocks and disconnects) You are gonna have it on the street for 98% of the time, so the other 2% you will be having too much fun to worry about it. The motor mount kit is about 80-100 bucks, or you could use the JKS Motor mount spacer for the same effect for about 50 bucks, and keeping your rubber motor mounts. There are no special toos needed other than basic hand tools and a little bit of knowledge. As for the least amount of stress on the Jeep, you are keeping almost all stock parts!!! Thats the good thing of this system set up, and thats why I do so many for the dealers. All you would have to do is get it aligned after the budget boost (and I dont mean center the wheel, I mean get it aligned). As for the spare tire, I would change it to the same size you have, just for safety and looks. It LOOKS like you are cheap if you have 33's and a stock spare....


Quote:
Originally Posted by RUBICONVICT View Post
Ok, I WAS leaning towards a RE 3.5" Standard lift with 285's (33 x 10.5). I like what I hear about RE and the silver springs would actually match perfectly. The RE lift would run me about $570. If I went with your option I am finding that the 2" budget boost would run about $234, the 1" motor mount lift about $50, and the 1" body lift about $120. This would save me about $165. Would I be able to install this myself? Any special tools needed?

Which would be the "better" option. Which would look best and be less stress on the Jeep? Also, I was thinking about keeping the unused spare on the back (31") instead of upgrading to 33" in order to save a couple hundred beans. Any opinions on this?
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Old 02-06-2007, 08:07 AM   #41
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I think that 234 price included slightly longer shocks along with the spacers. That would help prevent reaching the end of travel on those stock shocks after adding the 2" spacers.

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