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Old 02-03-2013, 12:25 PM   #1
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I'm an idiot and it's gonna cost me.

I'm doing oil changes on all my vehicles today. when I got to my 2006 Unlimited for some reason I got turned around backwards and instead of loosening the plug I was trying to tighten it until it spun on itself. Now it won't comes out, just spins.

My question is did I damage the pan or the plug? I can probably get it out using my impact, but I don't want it out if the pans screwed up and I'm not in a position to finx it right away.

Any help fot this idiot?

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Old 02-03-2013, 12:32 PM   #2
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is it your dd?, id take an impact to it... your changing the oil any way.

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Old 02-03-2013, 12:32 PM   #3
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you stripped out the threads inside the pan. probably be easiest to drill a hole in the pan to drain it, then replace the pan & plug.

you'll need to remove the exhaust downpipe containing the three cats & the t-case skid to get access to replace the oil pan. you need to support the entire drivetrain from the transmission using a jack, in order to drop the t-case skid. it's probably a half day worth of work once you have all the parts & tools.
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Old 02-03-2013, 12:32 PM   #4
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id say its the pan.
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Old 02-03-2013, 12:43 PM   #5
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Grab the plug with some vise grips and pull on it while you turnit out. That might get it to grab. You probably just stripped the last threads. You could also try sliding something behind the plug head to put pressure on the threads while you turn it out.
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Old 02-03-2013, 12:44 PM   #6
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Lefty loosey righty tighty Use a ratchet instead of a wrench next time...it's impossible to get spun around unless you just have it clicked wrong.
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Old 02-03-2013, 12:45 PM   #7
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If it's spinning, what good is an impact wrench going to do? Try a vise grip, and pull down as you turn, maybe a thread will catch. Once out you can see if it's the pan or the nut.
I see someone beat me to it. (neverfastenough1)
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Old 02-03-2013, 12:45 PM   #8
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Once you get out you can get an oversize self tapping drain plug from the auto parts store. Cut the new threads by putting some grease on the plug, turn 1/2 turn then back off 1/8 turn then continue the same way all the way in. The cut metal should be on the plug but pour the drained oil back into the engine to flush out the pan to get anything that may have gotten in.
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Old 02-03-2013, 12:48 PM   #9
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I guess my problem is I need to drive over an hour to use my dad's friend shop and lift to do the work if it's the pan. If I pull the plug at home then I'm screwed for help if I need it and no lift and not the right equipment and don't want to be stranded. I guess I could always buy the pan if I don't use it return it. But my guess is the pan too. Another costly oops!

Are Omix oil pans a decent replacement pan?
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Old 02-03-2013, 12:49 PM   #10
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If you do get it out, run a tap through it to clean the threads. Put some grease on the tap to collect the shavings. Put the plug in to see if it tightens. If it does, then pour the old oil in the engine and let it run out again to make sure the grease caught all the shavings.

I see someone beat me to that.
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Old 02-03-2013, 12:53 PM   #11
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Thanks for all the advice. I found a pan with a no hassle return policy, but I'll talk to my dad first, he's been in the hot rod business for 30+ years. he'll have an answer. well if I can find him! LOL
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Old 02-03-2013, 12:55 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by SoCalRailFan View Post
I guess my problem is I need to drive over an hour to use my dad's friend shop and lift to do the work if it's the pan. If I pull the plug at home then I'm screwed for help if I need it and no lift and not the right equipment and don't want to be stranded. I guess I could always buy the pan if I don't use it return it. But my guess is the pan too. Another costly oops!

Are Omix oil pans a decent replacement pan?
You don't need a new pan unless you just want one. Even if you can't save the threads in the old pan, you can just drill it out and weld in anoth bung. Or like said, use a self tapping plug.
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Old 02-03-2013, 01:51 PM   #13
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When I tried to remove the oil plug on my sons tj for the first time it just spun. Figuring the PO must have stripped it, I tried air ratchet, impact wrench, vise grips, and everything else to remove it. Finally realized it wasnt stripped, the weld nut inside the pan had broken loose. Could have cut plug off with a grinder but wasnt cool with a nut rolling around my oil pan. I bit the bullet and drilled a hole to drain the pan, dropped it, and replaced it. While I had it off a I replaced the oil pump for insurance. Watch the aftermarket pans as some dont have the sump baffle. I could have just welded the nut back to the pan but in my efforts to remove plug, I distorted the pan pretty badly. Good luck.
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Old 02-03-2013, 02:16 PM   #14
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Yeah, funny almost everything in my job fits that quote and I had just changed my other vehicles oil 15 minutes prior. Brain fart!

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Originally Posted by SeVeReDiStOrTiOn View Post
Lefty loosey righty tighty Use a ratchet instead of a wrench next time...it's impossible to get spun around unless you just have it clicked wrong.
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Old 02-03-2013, 02:29 PM   #15
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Once you get out you can get an oversize self tapping drain plug from the auto parts store. Cut the new threads by putting some grease on the plug, turn 1/2 turn then back off 1/8 turn then continue the same way all the way in. The cut metal should be on the plug but pour the drained oil back into the engine to flush out the pan to get anything that may have gotten in.
This is the way to go. Dorman makes the single oversize plug. You would ask for 1/2-20 single oversize.
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Old 02-03-2013, 02:36 PM   #16
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For what its worth, I was a Chevrolet tech for many years. If your on good terms with a dealership or can find one with high customer service ratings I would call and speak with the Service Manager. Not a write up guy but the Manager because in the end he will submit the claim to Chrysler. Be polite, just explain that you were changing your oil and the drain plug WAS VERY TIGHT, AS YOU INCREAED THE PRESSURE ON THE WRENCH THE DRAIN PLUG JUST SPUN. (hint). I've seen drain plugs snapped off in the pan and plugs severely cross threaded. But never in 20 plus years of working on vehicles have I even heard of this happening. And here I see at least two or three with the same model/engine. I would also inform the service manager that several folks on this forum have had the same problem. I would bet the skimped on the welds or the robotisnt set upquite right. Chrysler cant fix what they dont hear about and wont recognize the defect unless enough owners tell them. Last ditch ask the service manager for a one time adjustment or contact customer service directly if he refuses to try and helpout. None of the dealers or companies can risk a black eye nowadays.
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Old 02-03-2013, 03:03 PM   #17
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One way to help get the bolt out. Try a door panel removal tool. If the shaft on the plug bolt isn't too big, you should be able to get the tool to slide behind the head. Now you will have a pry bar of sorts while you spin the bolt. Just be carefull not to put too much pressure on it so you won't warp the oil pan.
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Old 02-03-2013, 03:52 PM   #18
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Well I'll let everyone know what happens in the next few weeks. Thanks for all the advice!
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Old 02-03-2013, 05:44 PM   #19
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I guess my problem is I need to drive over an hour to use my dad's friend shop and lift to do the work if it's the pan. If I pull the plug at home then I'm screwed for help if I need it and no lift and not the right equipment and don't want to be stranded. I guess I could always buy the pan if I don't use it return it. But my guess is the pan too. Another costly oops!

Are Omix oil pans a decent replacement pan?
I don't like either the Omix pans or their gaskets. You are welcome to use either or both just don't expect OEM quality.

What likely happened is you spun the spot welded drain plug insert loose from it's spot welds inside the pan. If you mess with it, you have a very good chance of making a leak that you won't be able to stop.

I'm a bit off the 215 just south of March if you need a driveway to work in and I'm willing to toss you a hand as well. You will need to drop the exhaust to get the pan off and I strongly recommend an OEM pan, Gasket, and a tube of Mopar Diff sealant for your gasket maker.

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Old 02-03-2013, 06:14 PM   #20
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Assuming you can get the plug out - fairly easy - Have you considered a simple tap & die? Very lest costly. Napa or autozone - new plug - just me - sorry been plowing and waiting for more
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:17 PM   #21
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Assuming you can get the plug out - fairly easy - Have you considered a simple tap & die? Very lest costly. Napa or autozone - new plug - just me - sorry been plowing and waiting for more
It's not a tap and die or either type problem. There is a nut plate spot welded into the inside of the pan that has an extruded tapped hole in it for the drain plug. What has likely happened is he broke that loose from the spot welds and now the nut plate is spinning inside the pan.
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:38 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post

It's not a tap and die or either type problem. There is a nut plate spot welded into the inside of the pan that has an extruded tapped hole in it for the drain plug. What has likely happened is he broke that loose from the spot welds and now the nut plate is spinning inside the pan.
As I stated earlier, that's what happened to my son's. Couldn't think of a good repair without dropping the pan. If you don't distort the pan trying to remove the plug you may be able weld the nut plate back in place. I just installed a new one.
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Old 02-04-2013, 02:31 PM   #23
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I don't like either the Omix pans or their gaskets. You are welcome to use either or both just don't expect OEM quality.

What likely happened is you spun the spot welded drain plug insert loose from it's spot welds inside the pan. If you mess with it, you have a very good chance of making a leak that you won't be able to stop.

I'm a bit off the 215 just south of March if you need a driveway to work in and I'm willing to toss you a hand as well. You will need to drop the exhaust to get the pan off and I strongly recommend an OEM pan, Gasket, and a tube of Mopar Diff sealant for your gasket maker.

If you need help today, I'm here.
This is pretty nice of you to offer up like this.
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Old 02-04-2013, 03:33 PM   #24
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This is pretty nice of you to offer up like this.
That is a typical Mr. Blaine, aka, Black Magic Brakes. He has really gone above and beyond with helping me out in the past and my friends problems too.
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:09 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post
I don't like either the Omix pans or their gaskets. You are welcome to use either or both just don't expect OEM quality.

What likely happened is you spun the spot welded drain plug insert loose from it's spot welds inside the pan. If you mess with it, you have a very good chance of making a leak that you won't be able to stop.

I'm a bit off the 215 just south of March if you need a driveway to work in and I'm willing to toss you a hand as well. You will need to drop the exhaust to get the pan off and I strongly recommend an OEM pan, Gasket, and a tube of Mopar Diff sealant for your gasket maker.

If you need help today, I'm here.
If that was me, I would jump on that offer! Oil pan, gasket, sealant, and case of beer or dinner gift certificate for helping hand. Nice! A screw-up has a price, the world is full of them!
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:26 PM   #26
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of all the great advice given the one thing that needs to be said is this
WE HAVE ALL DONE SOME SECRET MAJOR GOOFS>>> DONT BEAT YOURSELF UP.
in fact it takes a big man to say - I SCREWED UP... I know God offers THUMBS up for the HUMBLE PART... maybe we should start a post of our own big screw ups...

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