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Old 10-23-2009, 10:17 PM   #1
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Exclamation Installed JKS 1.25" BL.... Shifting Problem!

Ok guys, I ran into a problem and Iím about to pull my hair out. So I installed my BL no problems at all. Maybe an hour to install the BL and went straight to installing the JKS 1" motor blocks and that gave me a lot of trouble but ended up getting it on after 3 hours. Thinking everything is all fine and dandy I get in my jeep start it up and tried to shift gear and none of my bottom gears will go into gear. They hit the console where the boot connects at the bottom. Can anyone explain what I can do to fix this?

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Old 10-23-2009, 10:33 PM   #2
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Trim the console?

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Old 10-23-2009, 10:33 PM   #3
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I do have the drop bracket for the tcase shift linkage but I’m not exactly sure how to install that, any suggestions?
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Old 10-23-2009, 10:35 PM   #4
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lol id like to avoid trimming the console if possible.
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Old 10-23-2009, 10:49 PM   #5
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Thats odd. I did an OME suspension with the JKS 1.5" BL and 1" bombproof MML and didnt have an issue at all. Sometimes 2nd is a little tough to find but not often. I didnt even bother with the linkage kit or Tcase drop.
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Old 10-23-2009, 10:54 PM   #6
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^^^^ ditto.

A simple thing to do is pull the foam padding off of the shifter rod.

Will look like a piece of pipe foam over the shifter rod under the shift boot.
Pull the boot off and remove the foam.
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Old 10-23-2009, 10:58 PM   #7
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Yeah that's what iv been reading on other threads that have installed a BL and MML without any problems. I do have a 4" suspension lift if that helps any with resolving this.
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Old 10-23-2009, 11:00 PM   #8
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I would imagine that might be the issue....
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Old 10-23-2009, 11:01 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by distortedtj View Post
^^^^ ditto.

A simple thing to do is pull the foam padding off of the shifter rod.

Will look like a piece of pipe foam over the shifter rod under the shift boot.
Pull the boot off and remove the foam.
Alright thanks I'll take a look and give that a try tomorrow.
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Old 10-23-2009, 11:05 PM   #10
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No difference due to the suspension. The drive train "trans/engine" remain unmoved with a suspension lift. Only the the lifting of the body or a "tummy tuck" will change the location of the engine/trans in relation to the body of the vehicle.

The bracket for the T-case shift linkage will not help the shifter from hitting the consul either. It is just to raise the t-case linkage up to be adjusted to operate properly. Most with the JKS 1.25 don't even need the t-case bracket.


Only solutions for the issue you are having....
1 remove the foam from the shifter rod.
2 trim the consul.
3 heat and bend the shifter rod.
4 remove the body lift.

Hope that helps bud.
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Old 10-23-2009, 11:22 PM   #11
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Alright I appreciate the help!
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Old 10-24-2009, 06:08 AM   #12
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Do you have a transfer case skid plate drop? I installed a JKs 1 1/4bl and 1" mml a few months back and had the same problem.Could not hit 2nd gear with the boot on.Ended up reducing the t-case drop from 1" to 3, 7/8ths flat washers (about 1/2 inch thick) and have no problems now.I did use the transfer case adapter plate and ended up adjusting the linkage on that also.But this has nothing to do with the transmission shifting.
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Old 10-24-2009, 10:32 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willysmb View Post
Do you have a transfer case skid plate drop? I installed a JKs 1 1/4bl and 1" mml a few months back and had the same problem.Could not hit 2nd gear with the boot on.Ended up reducing the t-case drop from 1" to 3, 7/8ths flat washers (about 1/2 inch thick) and have no problems now.I did use the transfer case adapter plate and ended up adjusting the linkage on that also.But this has nothing to do with the transmission shifting.
I'm not sure if it has a transfer case skid plate installed on it, I would assume no that I don't. And that is the same problem, I bet if I took off my boot it would go all the way in 2nd and 4th. Could you give me direction on how you fixed it with adding washers? Sorry I don't have a clue where to start when it comes to something like that.
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Old 10-24-2009, 10:41 AM   #14
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I am very interested in this post also.
I posted something similar before but never got an answer......that helped!

I added a 4 in lift with Tcase drop, NO body lift.
I can BARELY get into 4th. it goes in like an inch.........then if i cruise and let off the gas a little going up to a light it pops out.
I bent the Rod also........no help.
pulled off case......nothing is hitting anywhere.

i am watching this thread.......sorry for adding a little to it.!

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Old 10-24-2009, 11:27 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dman23 View Post
I'm not sure if it has a transfer case skid plate installed on it, I would assume no that I don't. And that is the same problem, I bet if I took off my boot it would go all the way in 2nd and 4th. Could you give me direction on how you fixed it with adding washers? Sorry I don't have a clue where to start when it comes to something like that.
Take a pic of where your t=case skid meets to your frame. We'll let you know if you have a t-case drop.
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Old 10-24-2009, 11:29 AM   #16
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If it's only hitting the console, I'd move the console back and redrill the mounting holes.
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Old 10-24-2009, 12:21 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by distortedtj View Post
Take a pic of where your t=case skid meets to your frame. We'll let you know if you have a t-case drop.
10-4, ill get a pic of it as soon as I get back to the house. Thanks for the quick replys
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Old 10-24-2009, 02:06 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dman23 View Post
I'm not sure if it has a transfer case skid plate installed on it, I would assume no that I don't. And that is the same problem, I bet if I took off my boot it would go all the way in 2nd and 4th. Could you give me direction on how you fixed it with adding washers? Sorry I don't have a clue where to start when it comes to something like that.
Im pretty sure you have a skid plate,there huge,hard to miss,looks like a masons concrete mixing pan.There bolted to the frame with 6 ,1/2 inch bolts,3 on each side.You need to look to see if the pan is bolted up flush to the frame,or has some type of spacer between it and the frame rails.Most are square tubing rails (2).There about an inch thick,and come with alot of suspension lift kits 3" and higher.What I did with mine,was after the body lift and motor mount lift,I was able to remove the spacer and replace with standard 7/8 inch flat washers.I used 3 at each mounting bolt,stacked on top of each other.They totaled 1/2 inch thick.This new size was all I needed to get my rear driveshaft pretty straight,and lifted my trans/transfer case up over a 1/2 inch.So the stick shifts in my cab came up higher,which solved the stick shift hitting the console hole problem completely.....
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Old 10-24-2009, 03:30 PM   #19
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Old 10-24-2009, 05:12 PM   #20
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I could be wrong and its pouring rain outside so Im not going to look but that bar between the frame and plate looks like it was added as a drop kit.
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Old 10-24-2009, 05:21 PM   #21
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I just looked at my neighbors stock jeep and mine does have a drop kit on it.
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Old 10-24-2009, 06:55 PM   #22
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Quote:
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I just looked at my neighbors stock jeep and mine does have a drop kit on it.
Its got one alright,what suspension lift do you have? you probably still need some skip plate drop,but a MML helps to reduce the amount of drop.The flat washers might do the trick.The best fix is a slip yoke eliminator and custom Tom woods driveshaft with double joint.
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Old 10-24-2009, 07:06 PM   #23
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Damn sounds expensive, I have a 4" Superlift suspension. I decided to take off my middle consol for now expecting all my gears to go in and what do you know Reverse won’t even go all the way into gear, it pops out. Is it possible you could send me a picture of where to place the washers at, hope im not askin to much.
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Old 10-24-2009, 07:10 PM   #24
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Here are a couple of pics where its hitting. Sorry phone camara, kinda to dark for it.



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Old 10-24-2009, 07:24 PM   #25
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Dman,
Id run out right now but its pouring out,and dark.You remove the 6 1/2" bolts that hold the skid plate on,and replace them with the washers between the skid plate and frame rails.You might need shorter bolts like 1 1/2 " long.The bolts go thru the washers.I can take some pics tommorow.What worries me is if your rear driveshaft can handle a smaller drop with the washers.My lift is a boosted OME 2.5" kit.It has poly spacers on top of the springs bringing it close to 4". Im good with only maybe 1/2" drop,you may or may not.
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Old 10-24-2009, 08:08 PM   #26
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Quote:
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You remove the 6 1/2" bolts that hold the skid plate on,and replace them with the washers between the skid plate and frame rails.You might need shorter bolts like 1 1/2 " long.The bolts go thru the washers.I can take some pics tommorow.What worries me is if your rear driveshaft can handle a smaller drop with the washers.My lift is a boosted OME 2.5" kit.It has poly spacers on top of the springs bringing it close to 4". Im good with only maybe 1/2" drop,you may or may not.
That's the ticket. Just to add a little that might help clarify it:

Get a good jack and use it to support the skid plate while you are working (one of those Justin Case things). Remove the bolts that hold on one side of the skid plate. Now remove that square piece of tubing that is between the skid plate and the frame. Set it aside... you won't reuse it. Now replace the bolts to reattach the skid plate to the frame but instead of bolting the skid plate directly to the frame, put three washers on the bolt, positioning the washers between the skid plate and the frame so that you now have less space there than was created by that square tubing. Don't tighten the bolts all the way but just enough to hold everything in place.

Now do the other side the same way. When you've done both sides, go back and cinch all the bolts up tight.
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Old 10-24-2009, 08:33 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willysmb View Post
Dman,
Id run out right now but its pouring out,and dark.You remove the 6 1/2" bolts that hold the skid plate on,and replace them with the washers between the skid plate and frame rails.You might need shorter bolts like 1 1/2 " long.The bolts go thru the washers.I can take some pics tommorow.What worries me is if your rear driveshaft can handle a smaller drop with the washers.My lift is a boosted OME 2.5" kit.It has poly spacers on top of the springs bringing it close to 4". Im good with only maybe 1/2" drop,you may or may not.
Thanks willysmb! Donít worry about the pics I understand now. Iíll let you know how it turns out when I do it tomorrow. Again I appreciate the help.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Froggy View Post
That's the ticket. Just to add a little that might help clarify it:

Get a good jack and use it to support the skid plate while you are working (one of those Justin Case things). Remove the bolts that hold on one side of the skid plate. Now remove that square piece of tubing that is between the skid plate and the frame. Set it aside... you won't reuse it. Now replace the bolts to reattach the skid plate to the frame but instead of bolting the skid plate directly to the frame, put three washers on the bolt, positioning the washers between the skid plate and the frame so that you now have less space there than was created by that square tubing. Don't tighten the bolts all the way but just enough to hold everything in place.

Now do the other side the same way. When you've done both sides, go back and cinch all the bolts up tight.
Thanks that really helped me understand, at first I was thinking that I to leave the square tubing on for some reason . But that really helps clarify everything for me. Thanks guys!
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Old 10-25-2009, 10:03 AM   #28
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Hey guys, I got up early this morning and installed everything like above and all my gears go in no problem! I took it out for a test drive and didn’t have any vibrations and all gears go in perfectly. Thanks guys for the expert advice yall are awesome!
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Old 10-25-2009, 01:29 PM   #29
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sorry to bring up whats been fixed, i was reading in the thread because I'm going to buy either a 2" or 1 1/4" BL and i want to know exactly whats up.

so the square tubing in the pictures were a drop kit for the Skid plate?? I'm a newb.

so making the drop less, would raise the skid plate? resulting in what? moving the T-case up? making the shifter raise up as well, allowing it to clear the consul and shift correctly?
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Old 10-25-2009, 02:30 PM   #30
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Yeah that's correct, remove the square tubing and replace it with the size washer as above and it raises the t-case up which raises the shifter up allowing you to clear the console.

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