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Old 04-22-2011, 01:58 PM   #1
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Installed KCs Now Jeep Won't Start!!!!!

Ok, I removed the battery and cleaned up all the terminals. I wired my new KC long range driving lights. Didn't touch anything else in the jeep. Put in a brand new battery, hooked up the terminals. Light under the hood goes on, turn the key to aux and check the KCs, they work. Go to crank the jeep up and nothing. One click, i think i heard, and it does absolutely nothing. No clicks nada.

I pull up my wife's MDX and try a jump. Cables on lights come on. Go to start, it tries but just doesn't seem to have enough juice to turn it over.

Now heres my issue. I figure they sold me a bad battery so I reinstalled the old one (it was still cranking fine just old and corroded so I figured swap it out while I was under there). Same thing lights come on, go to start, click and nada??? WTF! Any ideas? I really didn't touch a damn thing other than the battery!!

Thanks guys and gals.

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Old 04-22-2011, 02:01 PM   #2
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Hmmm...Let me do some research and I'll get back to you. It might be a bad cable somewhere.

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Old 04-22-2011, 02:05 PM   #3
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What is the thing under the battery, looks like some sort of pressure sensor? Could that be something??? I did remove it to clean the battery tray.
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Old 04-22-2011, 02:06 PM   #4
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Check your fuses. Not sure how this relates to a Jeep, but on a Ford I was working on once, I had a similar problem. After installing some lights the motor would turn over, but wouldn't crank. There was an ignition fuse that had blown.
Hope this helps
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Old 04-22-2011, 02:31 PM   #5
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I don't know about a fuse, when I swapped out the new battery with the old one the lights back on and it make the same one click sound and thats it. Side note: I did put the ground for the lights under the relay box that I screwed to the firewall.
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Old 04-22-2011, 02:37 PM   #6
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I would still check fuses.....there could be a small chance that a fuse blew and its preventing the jeep from starting. You didnt specify, but where did you get power for your lights?
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Old 04-22-2011, 02:54 PM   #7
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I hooked the white and yellow wires into the positive (+) red side of the battery. I didn't wire them into the highs or anything.
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Old 04-22-2011, 03:26 PM   #8
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OK 4:23 update. I'm in finance and I have today off since its good friday and markets closed so working on the jeep was suppose to be the perfect day!

I disconnected the battery cables, removed the KC light connections, and put the cables back on. Light under the hood comes on and key in aux mode lights up the dash. Go to start, one click and then nothing..................
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Old 04-22-2011, 04:22 PM   #9
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I'm freaking out now! Did I fry my ECU??!!

I can turn on all the lights on the jeep in aux position then go to start and click, then nada. I read something about the neutral safety switch???? I did move the center consol to install my switch and messed with the shifter (i have an automatic by the way) ERRRR!!
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Old 04-22-2011, 04:30 PM   #10
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First, the sensor that is underneath the battery is nothing more than a temperature sensor. Its job is to insure the alternator doesn't overcharge the battery which would make the battery get hot. When the battery starts getting warm, the sensor alerts the PCM which slows the alternator's charging rate.

Next, turn your headlights on with the engine off. Do they turn on with full-brightness? Next, with the headlights on, have a helper try to start the engine while you watch what the headlights do. If the headlights dim or go out completely while the ignition switch is in the Start position, the battery is either nearly dead, defective, or one of the two connections going to the battery is defective.

If the headlights stay on at full brightness while you try to start the engine, then we can try some more ideas.
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Old 04-22-2011, 04:53 PM   #11
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Did as you said. Lights stayed on and bright until trying to start then everything went dead.
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Old 04-22-2011, 04:59 PM   #12
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check your obdii for any codes

what is your odometer mileage?
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Old 04-22-2011, 05:11 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sahara13 View Post
Did as you said. Lights stayed on and bright until trying to start then everything went dead.
That the headlights go out when you turn the ignition switch to Start means the electrical system is not getting enough current (power) from the battery. That could be caused by a defective battery, a weak battery, a dead battery, a bad cable going to the battery, or a bad (loose/weak/corroded) connection on one or both of the battery's posts. At this point, I would suspect nothing else beyond those specific potential sources for the problem.
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Old 04-22-2011, 05:12 PM   #14
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Will do. What is my obdii, how do I check it and what am I looking for? 128k milage. 4.0L 98 automatic.

Bransford, once my system reset (or whatever, when I'm able to connect the terminals and get lights again) I had my wife just try to start it while I had my head in the engine bay and heard a snap and got a puff of smoke from the red (positive) terminal, then all dead.
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Old 04-22-2011, 05:14 PM   #15
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To me, that indicates you have a weak/bad/defective connector at the battery, most likely the one going to the + post on the battery.
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Old 04-22-2011, 05:25 PM   #16
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Thanks for the help! Makes sense, the connection was pretty nasty when I removed it this morning. I cleaned it up until the shine came back on the post and the cable end. Is it difficult to replace the red wires? One goes to the fuse box and the other to the starter I believe. Anything tricky? Any best practices would be appreciated.
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Old 04-22-2011, 05:30 PM   #17
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Without being able to see it first-hand, I dunno if cleaning the connectors and getting them connected TIGHT onto the battery posts will be enough to fix the problem, or if you need a new cable or two. It can't hurt to wire brush both the connector and post bright and shiny and make a good connection between them. Once you get the connector's bolt tight, see if you can move the connector around on the post with your hand. It should not move at all with even some force put into it. If it can be moved and you can't tighten it enough with the nut and bolt on the connector to stop it from moving, that indicates the connector or post has worn enough that it needs one additional step to make it tight.

If it is TIGHT and can't be moved, that is good. If you can't get the connector tight enough onto the battery post, post that info up and I'll tell you how you can get it tight again without replacing the connector.
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Old 04-22-2011, 05:33 PM   #18
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Need to clean the terminals and connectors very very good and grease them before hooking up, sounds like a bad connection at battery, and remember unhook negative first and reconnect last!
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Old 04-22-2011, 05:40 PM   #19
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Ok, I'll crank it down. I did have it tight, well that was some hours ago!!!, but I can't remember if it was ridiculously tight!! I put on that clear lube stuff that came with my new battery on the connectors when I reinstalled it, not a good idea??
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Old 04-22-2011, 05:49 PM   #20
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That "lube" should not go between the battery post and its connector, it only goes on over the top of the connection to try to keep the corrosion down. The connections between the battery and connectors should be pure clean lead to pure clean lead.
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Old 04-22-2011, 06:12 PM   #21
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ITS ALIVE!

Bransford is a a genius!

I cranked the positive terminal down with every bit of force I could! (after recleaning it) and it fired up!

I'm a moron, can't believe it was just a wimpy bolt tighten by me.

I shall sleep well tonight.
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Old 04-22-2011, 07:34 PM   #22
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glad we could (kkinda for me) help!

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