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Old 06-19-2011, 11:05 AM   #1
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Installed LJ rockers on my TJ---L@@K!

One of the local wheelers changed out his stock LJ rockers for some aftermarkets and put these up for free on our local forum.... I couldn't pass it up!

Here is what I started with...


I removed the plastic filler panel just behind the front flare, held up the LJ rocker and marked the rocker for the cut...

I then place them on a jack for support to find out that the body mounting holes on the rockers lined up with octagonal holes under the body!!! WOOHOO!!!

I got the proper size drill bit and drilled out the octagonal holes under the body to accept 3/8x16 nutserts. This is where the rockers bolt to the underside of the body.

I then installed the rockers to find the placement of the 5 holes and marked them on the sides.. removed the rockers and drilled them out for 1/4x20 nutserts. I used touch-up paint on the bare metal on the holes to prevent rust prior to installing the nutserts. (the original nutserts I left alone... no need to remove them)

Here is a pic of all the nutserts in place


After I cleaned them up, I shot them with several coats of Plast-Dip ( I love that stuff)

Here is the rocker installed...





About two hours total time on the install. I couldn't be happier!

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4" Lift, 4.56's, 33" Duratracs on M/T Classics
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Hella Lighting: Driving, Fogs and H4 E-Codes
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Old 06-19-2011, 11:52 AM   #2
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Great job...It looks great..

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Old 06-19-2011, 11:58 AM   #3
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Nice work.
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Old 06-19-2011, 12:03 PM   #4
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Sweet
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Old 06-19-2011, 12:12 PM   #5
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Bookmarked... Thanks, I still have not installed mine
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Old 06-19-2011, 02:30 PM   #6
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looks great!
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Old 06-19-2011, 03:04 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Bookmarked... Thanks, I still have not installed mine

Anytime!! I will tell you to ensure you get the right size bit for the nutserts as too big will allow them to spin. They should fit snug.
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4" Lift, 4.56's, 33" Duratracs on M/T Classics
RR SYE, Tatton CV, MML, BL, TT, Dynomax Exhaust
Hella Lighting: Driving, Fogs and H4 E-Codes
NOPE! ... and NEVER will be...
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Old 06-19-2011, 04:06 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TnDz TJ

Anytime!! I will tell you to ensure you get the right size bit for the nutserts as too big will allow them to spin. They should fit snug.
I bought some rubi take offs. Was going to
have a body shop install, actually they still have 1. The guy keeps putting me off. This
Is good for I should just do it myself.

~ Ken
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Old 06-19-2011, 05:34 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
I bought some rubi take offs. Was going to
have a body shop install, actually they still have 1. The guy keeps putting me off. This
Is good for I should just do it myself.

~ Ken
It's up to you whether you want to install yourself or not. Biggest thing is getting them lined up using the floorjack and a few vice clamps underneath to get a snug fit when marking for holes in the side of the body. It's not hard, just getting it set right prior to drilling is key... as well as the proper size bit for nutserts.

You NEED a nutsert tool...
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4" Lift, 4.56's, 33" Duratracs on M/T Classics
RR SYE, Tatton CV, MML, BL, TT, Dynomax Exhaust
Hella Lighting: Driving, Fogs and H4 E-Codes
NOPE! ... and NEVER will be...
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Old 06-19-2011, 05:40 PM   #10
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Very nice writeup!
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Old 06-19-2011, 05:43 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Very nice writeup!
Thanks Jerry!
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4" Lift, 4.56's, 33" Duratracs on M/T Classics
RR SYE, Tatton CV, MML, BL, TT, Dynomax Exhaust
Hella Lighting: Driving, Fogs and H4 E-Codes
NOPE! ... and NEVER will be...
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TnDz TJ
It's up to you whether you want to install yourself or not. Biggest thing is getting them lined up using the floorjack and a few vice clamps underneath to get a snug fit when marking for holes in the side of the body. It's not hard, just getting it set right prior to drilling is key... as well as the proper size bit for nutserts.

You NEED a nutsert tool...
Thanks, and ya I knew that, I will rent one.
I have seen other write ups but this one seems to give me the confidence to do it myself

Good job!!


Ken
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:10 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Thanks, and ya I knew that, I will rent one.
I have seen other write ups but this one seems to give me the confidence to do it myself

Good job!!


Ken

I appreciate that, Ken! I try to do my best in writing up what I do to give the most detail for anyone to try to accomplish their goals. Glad to help!
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~Todd~ 2004 X 4.0 5 speed---SOLD
4" Lift, 4.56's, 33" Duratracs on M/T Classics
RR SYE, Tatton CV, MML, BL, TT, Dynomax Exhaust
Hella Lighting: Driving, Fogs and H4 E-Codes
NOPE! ... and NEVER will be...
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:11 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Thanks, and ya I knew that, I will rent one.
What do you think it'd cost to rent a $2 nutsert tool? It takes nothing but a bolt and a spacer between the bolt and nutsert to easily set a nutsert.

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Old 06-19-2011, 07:21 PM   #15
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that's a great idea!!! I had access to a nutsert tool from work... but that seems like a great alternative.. as long as it doesn't spin out on ya!
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4" Lift, 4.56's, 33" Duratracs on M/T Classics
RR SYE, Tatton CV, MML, BL, TT, Dynomax Exhaust
Hella Lighting: Driving, Fogs and H4 E-Codes
NOPE! ... and NEVER will be...
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:27 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
What do you think it'd cost to rent a $2 nutsert tool?
FREE at AZ
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Old 06-19-2011, 09:04 PM   #17
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zerk nut tool made this weekend to install my side steps cost me 7.30$ total and i can also double as mending plate, bolt and M8 long bolt lol
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Old 06-19-2011, 09:13 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by 06GoldenEagle View Post
zerk nut tool made this weekend to install my side steps cost me 7.30$ total and i can also double as mending plate, bolt and M8 long bolt lol

Great!!! how about a pic.... could help someone out!
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4" Lift, 4.56's, 33" Duratracs on M/T Classics
RR SYE, Tatton CV, MML, BL, TT, Dynomax Exhaust
Hella Lighting: Driving, Fogs and H4 E-Codes
NOPE! ... and NEVER will be...
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Old 06-19-2011, 09:23 PM   #19
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Old 06-19-2011, 09:28 PM   #20
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That's pretty good! Simple and easy... I like it!

I gotta say that this method might be a bit longer to install, but much easier on the forearms when trying to install 3/8x16 nutserts with the handled tool.... IT KILLED ME after 6 out of 10.... needed a break.
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4" Lift, 4.56's, 33" Duratracs on M/T Classics
RR SYE, Tatton CV, MML, BL, TT, Dynomax Exhaust
Hella Lighting: Driving, Fogs and H4 E-Codes
NOPE! ... and NEVER will be...
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Old 06-19-2011, 09:32 PM   #21
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Going to grab my other rocker and hit the depot 2mrw.

Thanks to you, Jerry and Google
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Lifting your JK? Read this!!



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Old 06-19-2011, 11:06 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Going to grab my other rocker and hit the depot 2mrw.

Thanks to you, Jerry and Google

Take pics and post up!!!!
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~Todd~ 2004 X 4.0 5 speed---SOLD
4" Lift, 4.56's, 33" Duratracs on M/T Classics
RR SYE, Tatton CV, MML, BL, TT, Dynomax Exhaust
Hella Lighting: Driving, Fogs and H4 E-Codes
NOPE! ... and NEVER will be...
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Old 06-20-2011, 08:22 AM   #23
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Seems too easy...I love it! Nice work!
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Old 06-24-2011, 12:20 AM   #24
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can you explain how to use the nut sert tool or what you look for to get that thing to stick. I just got Poison Spyder corner armor and i installed the driver side, put the taillight in, and put the gas filler on with RBP cover and now realize one of the bolts is impossible to get to and I guess i was supposed to use the nut sert right there. do i have to take the whole damn assembly back off for one bolt?
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Old 06-24-2011, 05:31 AM   #25
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For example....

5/16 nutserts (this is one size I have) uses a 17/32 hole. Screw the nutsert to the tool (I have the handle type) and place nutsert into 17/32 hole. squeeze the holy crap out of the handle until the handles are completely compressed ( you can't go anymore). Unscrew the tool from the nutsert.

There are charts @ KW for their particular nutserts.



Essentially, what is happening is you have a small gap between the head of the nutsert (flat flange) and the threaded area. When you compress the nutsert, this gap bubbles (just like a pop rivet) and holds to the material.

There are aluminum nutserts and steel.... I only use steels and mine have cross-ribs to grip to not let them spin.... Kimball Midwest- there are charts there as well for assisting.
https://www.kimballmidwest.com/Catal...p=681.454.2612
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4" Lift, 4.56's, 33" Duratracs on M/T Classics
RR SYE, Tatton CV, MML, BL, TT, Dynomax Exhaust
Hella Lighting: Driving, Fogs and H4 E-Codes
NOPE! ... and NEVER will be...
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Old 10-08-2012, 10:23 AM   #26
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thanks for the write up. i scored some rubi rock rails yesterday. dont know if i will have time to do it myself or will i get one of the shops around here to do it
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Old 10-08-2012, 11:25 AM   #27
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thanks for the write up. i scored some rubi rock rails yesterday. dont know if i will have time to do it myself or will i get one of the shops around here to do it

No sweat.... They are easy enough to do yourself, just make sure you have them nice and tight to the body both underside and side before you drill.
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~Todd~ 2004 X 4.0 5 speed---SOLD
4" Lift, 4.56's, 33" Duratracs on M/T Classics
RR SYE, Tatton CV, MML, BL, TT, Dynomax Exhaust
Hella Lighting: Driving, Fogs and H4 E-Codes
NOPE! ... and NEVER will be...
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:38 PM   #28
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No sweat.... They are easy enough to do yourself, just make sure you have them nice and tight to the body both underside and side before you drill.
will gather everything this weekend and go to the hobby shop on base and Patience and get her done! today my fender flares kicked my ass. i gave up on taking them off for re paint

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