Installed new clutch. Pedal has little to no resistance.HELP PLEASE - Jeep Wrangler Forum
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Old 04-21-2011, 09:29 PM   #1
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Installed new clutch. Pedal has little to no resistance.HELP PLEASE

I just installed my clutch. i pushed down on my clutch and it was very very firm so i pushed harder and then a heard a loud POP and the clutch pedal went to the floor and i had no resistance,although the pedal did return up.

the slave cyl. was leaking and i realized a busted it, so i just replaced it.my dad and i blead the clutch for about and hour and finally we got some resistance, but not anything like a clutch should be.

WTF is going on. i have been working for not hours, but days on this.

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Old 04-21-2011, 09:36 PM   #2
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I had the same problem w the new slave when I did my clutch. we reinstalled the old slave and called it a day. Since ur old slave was leaking, I guess Im no help to you. sorry

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Old 04-21-2011, 09:40 PM   #3
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Umm, does the clutch disengage? Will it shift?
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Old 04-21-2011, 09:58 PM   #4
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Umm, does the clutch disengage? Will it shift?
yes, it does shift. i can drive it. its just very hard.

also i noticed that when i was driving down my street about to enter my drive way, i was coasting in with the clutch to the floor and i put it into first gear and i could hear my tranny turning like i down shifted, but it wasnt gripping all the way like it would be turning if the clutch was all the way out......i hope that makes sense??
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Old 04-22-2011, 11:50 AM   #5
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anyone else?
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-RC 9500 lb. winch.
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Old 04-22-2011, 03:12 PM   #6
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Sounds like you got a bad slave when you repalced it. I had the same issue on a CJ about 8 years ago...
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Old 04-22-2011, 03:18 PM   #7
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As long as it will go into reverse just drive it and it will work out the air bubbles over time on it's own.
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Old 04-22-2011, 03:29 PM   #8
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Is there any chance the clutch fork inside the bell housing that the slave cylinder pushrod pushes against was not properly reinstalled?

What I would do no matter what is to isolate the problem to either the hydraulic system or the underlying mechanical linkage inside the bell housing.

You can do so by unbolting the slave cylinder from the bell housing, make sure the stainless steel pushrod does not fall out of the slave cylinder and into the interior of the bell housing. Once that is out, have someone step down on the clutch pedal while you push back against the pushrod with your hand and see how well it is working. If it seems to be working ok, or even if you're not sure, the next step is to use something like a large phillips head screwdriver to push against the clutch fork inside the bell housing. You will be pushing against the same piece the slave cylinder's push rod pushes against to disengage the clutch. See how that feels.

Between testing the hydraulic system and the clutch fork mechanism inside the bell housing, you should be better able to diagnose which of the two is responsible for your problem.
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Old 04-22-2011, 04:00 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97wrangler-242 View Post
As long as it will go into reverse just drive it and it will work out the air bubbles over time on it's own.
Or you could just properly bleed the clutch to prevent damaging anything.

Try to bleed the clutch. If that doesn't work, check the hydro system. If you can't see any bend linkages or blown lines, check the slave and master cyl. If that looks good, pull the trans and check the clutch fork.

I doubt it's the clutch fork though. If you heard a pop the TOB would have had to popped out of position or the clutch fork popped off the pivot ball, in either case your clutch wouldn't work at all. From the sounds of it, I think you popped something in your hydro system.
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Old 04-23-2011, 12:47 PM   #10
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OK, now thinking back i remember there was a clip that held the fork to the pivot ball. I remember thinking that it looks weak and not like it was very solid. SO...that being said, if that clip was broke, would it cause all this?(the clip that holds the fork to the pivot ball)
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Old 04-23-2011, 12:58 PM   #11
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If the the clip did happen to break or come off then disengagement of the clutch wouldn't be affected, its re engagement that be off as the throwout bearing/clutch fork tried to return to normal position. However I don't know if that would cause what you are describing.
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Old 04-23-2011, 01:09 PM   #12
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Do what Jerry said. You'll know where the problem is.
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Old 04-23-2011, 01:15 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by banipal19 View Post
Do what Jerry said. You'll know where the problem is.
i plan on it but im just waiting for someone to push on the clutch for me. Now assuming the new slave cyl. and all other hydrolic components are working correctly, then its got to be the fork, Correct?
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Old 04-23-2011, 01:19 PM   #14
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Could be but my bet is on hydraulic components.
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Old 04-23-2011, 01:24 PM   #15
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i hope your right cause i really do not wanna drop the tanny again.
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-RC 9500 lb. winch.
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Old 04-23-2011, 04:49 PM   #16
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results...while my girlfriend was pushing down on the clutch i was pushing on the slave cyl rod. i could not fover power it. when she held the clutch to the floor i pushed the rod aginst the tranny and could not push it in.

second part i stuck a screw driver in the bell houseing threw the slave cyl hole and i was barley able to push the fork in. i maybe moved it in 1/4 of and inch.

so what does this mean?
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-31" BFG T/A KO -1999 durango gear box
-RC 9500 lb. winch.
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Old 04-23-2011, 04:57 PM   #17
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Sounds to me like you just got a bit of bad news... like the problem is more likely to be inside the bell housing.
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Old 04-23-2011, 06:13 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Sounds to me like you just got a bit of bad news... like the problem is more likely to be inside the bell housing.
time to get tearing away...alwell. i bet i can get the tranny dropped in an hour.

thanks for all your help guys i really appricate it ALOT, ill let you know what i find.
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2000 tj sport 4.0 manual
-3 inch lift (teraflex) -KC HiLites
-31" BFG T/A KO -1999 durango gear box
-RC 9500 lb. winch.
-Homemade winch plate
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Old 04-23-2011, 07:59 PM   #19
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got the tranny dropped in 45 min.

b/c this is my first time doing a clutch before i dont reall have much knowledge to go off off but, im pretty sure the clip holding the fork to the pivot ball was broke, not installed correctly, which was not allowing the fork to pivot at all. im heading up to auto zone to see what they have. I really really hope this is it and not just a waste of time.
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2000 tj sport 4.0 manual
-3 inch lift (teraflex) -KC HiLites
-31" BFG T/A KO -1999 durango gear box
-RC 9500 lb. winch.
-Homemade winch plate
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:35 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmiller369 View Post
got the tranny dropped in 45 min.

b/c this is my first time doing a clutch before i dont reall have much knowledge to go off off but, im pretty sure the clip holding the fork to the pivot ball was broke, not installed correctly, which was not allowing the fork to pivot at all. im heading up to auto zone to see what they have. I really really hope this is it and not just a waste of time.
Good luck. I did the clutch on my Mustang this winter. Took my 5 times until i figured out that the input shaft's splines were spun. The good news is that you'll get really good at it.

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