MML is not that difficult.......just the driver side is a PITA. I had to take the whole bracket right off the engine (3 Bolts) and snake the bracket and mount (together) out. Then separate and install new MM on the bracket....snake it back up in there....(don't tighten the MM on too much, it's helpful to have it bend while getting it back up through the steering/suspension)...and Done.
'03 TJ Sport on 33's, 2"BB, 1"BL, 1"MML
Location: where I wheel: N 45ș 36.663' W 123ș 20.935'
The MML was the hardest job Ive done on my Jeep, yet I thought it would be the easiest. Towards the end, what really helped me was installing the mounts cross bolts the opposite way, so I could get better access with a torque wrench upon reinstallation.
1998 TJ Moss Green Sahara w/ numerous scratches & dents whose playground is on a tropical island that's 33 miles long and 4-12 miles wide, in year-round 82 degree weather
NY94YJ has it right, remove the entire drivers side bracket from the block along with the stock motor mount. Then with the bracket on your work bench remove the old stock mount and instal the new one onto the bracket then bolt it back up to the block. The currie mml doesnt involve spacers like some of the others like the JKS. The Currie is similar to the MORE and DAYSTAR motor mounts.
I've kept my writeup from when I did the daystar mml install (exactly 4 yrs ago yesterday - July 1 2004). my grammer and spelling aint good but I think it still makes sense.
i just finished the motor mount lift and body lift last night.
THe motor mount I did first and took a little over an hour. I kept hearing about how much of a pain it would be to install but it was really nice.
For the drivers side motor mount:
- the first thing I did was loosen the tranny mount bolts under the crossmember.
- Then I unscrewed the fan shroud from the radiator.
- Then I supported the engine using a hydrolic jack under the tranny bellhousing.
- unbolted the driver side mount from the frame
- I then loosened the nut and long bolt supporting the engine bracket to the engine mount
- Then from undernieth I removed the three bolts holding the engine bracket from the block.
- I took the whole thing out and removed the long through bolt and attached the new mount to the engine mount bracket.
- Then after jacking the bellhousing up another inch I took that whole thing again and put it back in reverse order. It was a snap. no problem at all with holes lining up.
For the passanger side motor mount:
- I kept the hydrolic jack lifted where it was from before.
- unbolted the mount from the frame
- removed the long through bolt from the mount and engine block bracket.
- put in the new mount and loosly put the bolts in through the frame... didn't put the nut on yet though.
- then I raised the jack just a bit to line up the engine bracket bolt hole with the motor mounts hole for the long "through bolt"... this was the only "tricky" part if you can call it that... use a long screw driver or some pry bar and lean the mount a bit so that the hole lines up with the engine mount bracket hole.
- once you get that bolt in then its time to tighten it all up.
- lower the jack
- tighten up the bolts under the transfer case
Then after doing the body lift its time to put the shroud back on.
I wouldn't try it.You are going to run out of travel on the drive shafts the wheel base is going to be way to short with the stock arms and it could cause all kinds of problems.You could throw in some BB spacers to see but that means taking them back out if it causes problems and it may even cause you problems that brake or twist something.IMO i would leave well enough alone.You have been lucky enough so far to have the height you have now with no vibes and just a quarter inch of TC drop.P.S I only have a 4" suspension lift other than the 1.25 BL and I have a 1" MML and a 1" TC drop.BTW the MML is not all that hard I done mine by myself in about an hour.
i already have 2" spacers abovee 2.5" OME springs.
iŽll install some other things in august. perhapos teh rear sags a bit more with the heavy rocker guards and rock crawler rear bumper. then iŽll make some bigger rear spacers on a friends engine lathe to get the height back..
after the last weekend in an offroad park i want as much ground clearance as possible.
but perhaps your right and i should leave it like it is. then iŽll add some extra height in the autumn when i install the belly up skid and the SYE and CV driveshaft.