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Old 09-02-2012, 08:04 PM   #1
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Installing Bushwacker Flat Fender Flares

I have my new Bushwacker Flat Fender Flares in the garage, but I haven't ripped into the box yet (I've been painting and bed lining the front fenders and rocker so far this weekend).

When I pulled the stock fender flares off a couple of weeks ago, I had several nutserts that were rust-welded, so I had to pry/pop them out altogether. Will I need to get a nutsert kit for the Bushwacker flat flare mounts?

I'm planning on doing the flare installation tomorrow, but before I get started I figured I'd check and see if anyone has any lessons learned to pass on.

Thanks.

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Old 09-02-2012, 09:27 PM   #2
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Here's the driver's side fender, painted/bed lined, with the nutsert holes.


Jeep Fender Flare Upgrade by Travis Hoops, on Flickr

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Old 09-03-2012, 06:10 PM   #3
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In case anyone looks at this in the future, and wonders the same...

You can get the front flares on - even if you had to pry out the nutserts. You should be able to reach up behind the body panel to get the new nuts on the screws for the back three holes - I did, and I have big hands.

The rear flares are a different story.

The front two holes (above the back part of the rocker) are inaccessible from the backside of the body panel - so you're screwed if you pried out those nutserts. I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet, but it will unfortunately require a visit to someone that I'm going to have to pay (i.e., a body shop). It's a bummer way to end a project.

I guess the bright side is that the front flares look awesome with my newly bed lined fenders.
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Current Jeep: 2009 JK UR (3.8L, 4-spd auto)
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Previous Jeep (2): 1997 TJ SE (2.5L, 5-spd manual)
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:13 PM   #4
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I feel a tad vain for continuing this thread all by myself, but in case anyone finds this thread on a search in the future....

The finished product:


Bushwacker Flat Flare Project by Travis Hoops, on Flickr


Bushwacker Flat Flare Project by Travis Hoops, on Flickr

I had a body shop drill the front two holes bigger for the rear fenders, and then they installed larger nutserts for me - and they bolted the flares on. I had the front flares done. It took the body shop guys 15 minutes, and they got the rear flares on - their part cost me $50. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. Now all I need is a re-gear and bigger tires!!
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:30 PM   #5
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looks good..

Dana
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Old 09-05-2012, 12:29 AM   #6
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Looks great I'm looking into getting some on mine what size tires do you wanna go with.
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Old 09-05-2012, 08:24 AM   #7
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I want 33" MT/Rs - probably on 15" steel wheels (I like Black Rock Type D 942s, but my wife thinks they're too "hole-ly" :-) ).

The tires for the 15s are less expensive than 16s (by ~ $40 a piece), and I like the look. A friend of mine at work put 35s on 15" wheels, and they look pretty awesome. I still have life left in my current 31" MT/Rs, and it sounds like we might not have much snow this winter - so I might wait until spring.
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Current Jeep: 2009 JK UR (3.8L, 4-spd auto)
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Previous Jeep (2): 1997 TJ SE (2.5L, 5-spd manual)
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Old 09-05-2012, 11:40 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bugeater
I want 33" MT/Rs - probably on 15" steel wheels (I like Black Rock Type D 942s, but my wife thinks they're too "hole-ly" :-) ).

The tires for the 15s are less expensive than 16s (by ~ $40 a piece), and I like the look. A friend of mine at work put 35s on 15" wheels, and they look pretty awesome. I still have life left in my current 31" MT/Rs, and it sounds like we might not have much snow this winter - so I might wait until spring.
Nice that sound pretty exact on the specs I want on mine so when you do get the tires later on make sure you post pics it's gonna look BA!
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Old 10-26-2014, 03:34 PM   #9
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thanks. i have this kit right and had no idea you had to do something with the back. I might be Fudged as well.

what did you say to the body shop guys?
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Old 10-26-2014, 03:37 PM   #10
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i am assuming you measured and drilled new holes for the rear section of both the front and rears as the directions say ?

if I still have my factory holes in the read I should be good, right?

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