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Old 07-19-2011, 04:11 PM   #1
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 81
Red face intro and suspension questions?

So please bear with me on these questions, I am somewhat new to tj mods.

First things first, my name is chuck and I have a 06' tj stock minus rims/tires. rock crawler rims with 31X10.50R15's, 4.0, six speed, X model.

I have owned the jeep since new, and am finally looking to mod the jeep. What I do is a lot of wheeling in mountains, rocky trails, and trails with many washouts and such. nothing to the point of busting up my jeep but I very much enjoy peaking out the suspension. These are the questions I have and feel free to educate me. I have a mechanical background so you don't have to stupify things for a toddler but I do ask that you bear in mind that I intend to learn here.

First question is, suspension flex is primarily axle drop correct? my understanding is that the best way to keep all four tires in contact is not to increase upward travel so much as downward travel due to the limit imposed by the bumpstops. am I misguided?

Second question is, how can I get more flex out of mostly stock suspension/ride height? I will be getting a budget boost coil lift and stay with 31" tires. I am familiar with the consept of disconnects and that WILL happen shortly by modifying the existing bolts to accept a codder pin or something of that nature. My real intrest is if I can gain anything by converting to a long arm set up with better shocks and SYE? I know the geometry doesn't require it for a better ride or anything, but I am under the impression that it would allow for more usable flex as the axle drops away from the chassis. Am I misguided here?

The reason for these questions it because I am in no way modest when it comes to getting to my favorite fishing/camping hole or hunting trail and refuse to walk when I have my $XXXXX four wheeler. I have maxed the suspension without removal of the trac bar and front sway bar by both contacting the fender due to upward travel with the 31's (hence the BB lift) and losing contact with the dropped wheels. I know a locker in the front and back would solve that problem and that is comming as well. I just dont enjoy the teetering back and forth thing and would like to avoid it if possible.

So please fire away with any advice, experience, or expert knowledge but please understand that I want to stay as close to stock ride height as possible to stick with 31's for now. when I am rich and it is reasonable to spend thousands on long arm lifts and 35's I will look into that side of the spectrum.

Thank you so much for the advice, I am frequently on 460ford and expect you will all be as helpful as they are.


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Old 07-19-2011, 04:22 PM   #2
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Quality control arms will be the best thing you can do. Currie, Rokmen, or Savvy. The next stage would be eliminating the rear track bar. I want to eventually do Rokmen lower control arms, Savvy front uppers, and Rock Krawler rear 4 link conversion.

Disconnecting sway bar will give you more flex. Most would consider down travel most important, but up travel should not be completely forgotten about. There should be a good balance between up and down travel.

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Old 07-19-2011, 04:29 PM   #3
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that makes sense, I have heard a ton about these control arms but how to they help the cycling of the suspension offering more? I am a little "wrapped around the axle" on control arm length and the effect that has.

I do understand what you mean about the upward and downward travel, but you make a good point.
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Old 07-19-2011, 04:40 PM   #4
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The difference is in the joints. They all use Johnny Joints, which are far better than anything else. You could have a long arm with crappy bushing joints and it will not perform as well as short arms with JJs.

There are tons of discussions on long arm vs short arm and it would be pointless reiterating everything.

Jeep & Off-Road Discussion Forum for every model plus Galleries, Reviews, Links, Parts & Articles. Jeep Wrangler Grand Cherokee Liberty CJ MJ XJ TJ YJ DJZJ WJ - Search Results for long arm vs short arm
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Old 07-19-2011, 04:44 PM   #5
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Old 07-19-2011, 04:49 PM   #6
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alright thanks for the help you offered
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Old 07-19-2011, 05:20 PM   #7
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Sup Chuck! Welcome!
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Old 07-21-2011, 05:47 PM   #8
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so anyone else have any advice? I checked out the links and they look good. I think I agree with the theory of any flex being useable flex if you have lockers and I am definately going that route. I like the idea of the new short arms with the budget boost. if I kept it like that with quality short arms, lockers, and disconnects, would that still be sufficient if I bumped up to 33" tires and high clearance fenders down the road? Also, for those with experience, if I flat fender the jeep with the 3" tube extension will that be enough clearance for 33's or would I need the highline kit or something like that?

thanks again,
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Old 07-22-2011, 07:20 PM   #9
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Any of the tube fenders out there have plenty of room to flex 33's.
I had Poison Spyder fenders and had plenty of room for 33's and even tried out some 35's as well

Post #17, Flexed out with 33's

Jeep Flexing Pictures
98TJ / Hi-Lined / Zip Lockers / 35s

Family Rig / Tow Rig: 08 Tundra & 16ft Trailer
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Old 07-22-2011, 07:28 PM   #10
Creepy Crawler

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If you're interested in tube fenders for tire clearance without much or any lift, check out metalcloaks. They are a replacement system so you don't have to hack into your stock fenders or hood (highline). I don't have them, but definately want some after seeing them firsthand. yes, they are pricey, but probably about the same as if you were to get a quality 4" lift.

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