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Old 06-06-2007, 10:54 AM   #1
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IPF Fatboy bulbs

Guess I could put this in the other thread, but this will make it easier to search for I think, if anyone else is interested later.

With these Super Low Beam bulbs, I understand that my low beam has more wattage than my high beam. What I DONT understand is this:

1. Are the low beams actually BRIGHTER than the high beams, or is it just more light OUTPUT in low beam, and the design of the headlights allows for more light with less output during the high beam setting (does this make any sense?)

2. If the low beam is actually brighter than the high beams, despite the fact that it doesnt make much sense to me, are my only options for a brighter high beam to get off road lights, or is there anyother option I am overlooking?

I like the fact that these things produce crazy amounts of lights with a small wattage draw, but I dont know if I could get used to, or even like, pulling my stalk back and finding myself MORE in the dark during high beam than I was in low beam traffic setting. Maybe I am just wierd, but I like more light in high than low (although the more light in both the better).

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Old 06-06-2007, 11:00 AM   #2
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Oh man. I think you're over thinking this. Just buy the IPF's with FatBoys and be done with it. I PROMISE you you won't be dissappointed.

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Old 06-06-2007, 11:02 AM   #3
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Yes master.
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Old 06-06-2007, 11:09 AM   #4
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Done. Can you answer my question now that I bought the stupid lights and housings?
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Old 06-06-2007, 11:16 AM   #5
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I don't know about the amount of light output. I can say that the low beam projects a broader beam that covers a wider area where the high beam is a more concentrated beam that projects further.

After saying that, I have no idea if that answers your question or not?!?!
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Old 06-06-2007, 11:24 AM   #6
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Yes it does thank you. What I was wondering is if the bulbs made High Beam useless, or if the housings still gave them a purpose (does that even make sense either?)

Anyway, you answered my question perfectly, and I can picture what your saying. Now, I hope northridge doesnt take forever to get me these things, I want em now! (Dirk was off today, which I respect, but I am alittle ansy.. Ill buy something from DPG next time mr. cliff )
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Old 06-06-2007, 11:47 AM   #7
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If you want to really see an improvement to those lights get the auxilary harness that plugs the lights into the system and uses one of the old headlight sockets to work it. Immediate 50% improvement using stock lights. It basically has two relays, two sockets and a plug, you wire it directly to the battery using the big lug on the PDC if you want or attach it to battery and ground. The relays get attached to the fenderwell and wires run to both side where the old headlights were run to, then you take the original drivers side socket and plug it into the new harness, plug the two sockets into the headlights and done. www.rallylights.com has them as do painless and a few other companies, I'm just familiar with rallylights as they are local to me.

You can also make one yourself using off the shelf parts, relays, sockets, fuses, wire. There are a few diagrams or how too's out there...
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Old 06-06-2007, 12:20 PM   #8
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If you want to really see an improvement to those lights get the auxilary harness that plugs the lights into the system and uses one of the old headlight sockets to work it. Immediate 50% improvement using stock lights.
While that's true for bulbs that actually draw significantly more current like my 90/120 watt bulbs do, that's not the case with the IPF Fatboys that barely draw more current than the factory bulbs do. It's a wattage thing and even IPF advises its customers they don't need to upgrade their wiring harness for these particular bulbs.

I advise people to install aux wiring harnesses all the time for high wattage headlights but the IPF Fatboys don't need it.
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Old 06-06-2007, 02:04 PM   #9
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While that's true for bulbs that actually draw significantly more current like my 90/120 watt bulbs do, that's not the case with the IPF Fatboys that barely draw more current than the factory bulbs do. It's a wattage thing and even IPF advises its customers they don't need to upgrade their wiring harness for these particular bulbs.

I advise people to install aux wiring harnesses all the time for high wattage headlights but the IPF Fatboys don't need it.
To a point, once the jeep reaches about 5 years old the resistance in the wiring goes up. I keep after mine by using a GC burnishing tool in my sockets yearly along with a few dabs of dielectric. You south western people have alot less issues to deal with in that dept not to mention rust. I drop my rear skid on the XJ as well as the Tomken rear bumper for yearly applications of anti-seize and even that is a 2 hour exercise with breaker bars, thread chasers and new bolts. I've even gone so far as to replace my ground straps on both the TJ and the XJ once they hit the correct shade of green.
I run Hella E codes in the XJ and CIBIE 7" rounds in the TJ, the improvement on the 55/65 Xenon Hella bulbs was interesting I swapped them back and forth between the two to make sure my eyes were not playing tricks on me on the XJ, the TJ gets done once I stock up on the new head unit, 00 cable and the aux harness. I want to take everything apart once and get it done right.
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Old 06-06-2007, 02:34 PM   #10
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To a point, once the jeep reaches about 5 years old the resistance in the wiring goes up.
As one with an electrical engineering background, balogna. Are you saying the resistance in a five year old spool of wire has higher resistance and it should have an expiration date like milk?
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Old 06-06-2007, 02:58 PM   #11
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Jerry, I think he is saying that after about 5 years out here on the East Coast all of our connectors and open wirining starts to rust out and cause resistance caused by the salt water and humidity, and you dont have that issue on there on the west coast.

Now, I have seen some older 10+ year old cars start to have wiring issues, but I have never really noticed it in any of mine Maybe a ground strap sure, or MAYBE a brittle insulation that causes a wire to break prematurly, but I have never had to replace wirinng harness or wires on cars (Some over 10 years old) that I have personally had because of corrosion and resistance.
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Old 06-06-2007, 05:49 PM   #12
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Jerry, I think he is saying that after about 5 years out here on the East Coast all of our connectors and open wirining starts to rust out and cause resistance caused by the salt water and humidity, and you dont have that issue on there on the west coast.
What would rust on an aluminum solderless connector pushed onto a brass spade lug or another aluminum connector? And I lived ON the beach for ten years so while I had rust on most areas of my cars, I never had rust on anything wiring related. Besides, if it's just a connector issue he's thinking of, that can be cleaned off in 30 seconds with a wire brush and then the whole connection can be protected by a small dab of dielectric grease.

I'm not arguing with you but for him to state the headlight harness would need replacing with an aftermarket relay controlled harness for IPF Fat Boy bulbs due to increased electrical resistance after ten years of use was a pretty silly claim. My TJ is already over 11 years old and I don't exactly believe its wiring is increasing its resistance.
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Old 06-07-2007, 06:26 AM   #13
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What would rust on an aluminum solderless connector pushed onto a brass spade lug or another aluminum connector? And I lived ON the beach for ten years so while I had rust on most areas of my cars, I never had rust on anything wiring related. Besides, if it's just a connector issue he's thinking of, that can be cleaned off in 30 seconds with a wire brush and then the whole connection can be protected by a small dab of dielectric grease.

I'm not arguing with you but for him to state the headlight harness would need replacing with an after market relay controlled harness for IPF Fat Boy bulbs due to increased electrical resistance after ten years of use was a pretty silly claim. My TJ is already over 11 years old and I don't exactly believe its wiring is increasing its resistance.
I did not say it would need replacing, what I said is that here in the NE wiring degrades, it degrades from winter road treatments, large temperature swings, steam from off roading when crossing streams. What I said was there is a marked improvement when adding an aux harness. The voltage difference between my stock wiring to the drivers side bulb and the aux harness driver side bulb was +1.8V higher with the aux. And as far as the wiring degrading, cars use braided cable, it is much more prone to surface oxydation under the sheathing than sold is. When I was stationed out on the silver strand and had a sportster back in the 70's my only major issues were having to clean the chrome, aluminum and seagull crap on the seat and tank. The problem is you so are spoiled
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Old 06-07-2007, 08:11 AM   #14
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What would rust on an aluminum solderless connector pushed onto a brass spade lug or another aluminum connector? And I lived ON the beach for ten years so while I had rust on most areas of my cars, I never had rust on anything wiring related. Besides, if it's just a connector issue he's thinking of, that can be cleaned off in 30 seconds with a wire brush and then the whole connection can be protected by a small dab of dielectric grease.

I'm not arguing with you but for him to state the headlight harness would need replacing with an aftermarket relay controlled harness for IPF Fat Boy bulbs due to increased electrical resistance after ten years of use was a pretty silly claim. My TJ is already over 11 years old and I don't exactly believe its wiring is increasing its resistance.
I agree with you Jerry, which is why I am not going to replace the harness untill I get some new lights to replace my fogs, then I will just kill 3 birds with one stone. Upgrade fog light and headlight harness, new off road lights (probably IPF 968s), and take my crappy stock Hellas and toss them in the back for reverse lights where they belong...
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Old 06-07-2007, 12:27 PM   #15
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oh quit your whining man. you live in a sandbelt state... if you take care of your vechiles you don't have an issue, grumpy is proof of that... engine issues mabye but not electrical.. smile you got a new jeep
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Old 06-07-2007, 01:42 PM   #16
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oh quit your whining man. you live in a sandbelt state... if you take care of your vechiles you don't have an issue, grumpy is proof of that... engine issues mabye but not electrical.. smile you got a new jeep
Man if it was only sand and some salt, in Pa they started using this blue liquid they spray BEFORE the snow or ice gets going. I can't speak for how well it works but on the snow/ice but the underbody rust and corrosion is unreal. Its the same stuff they use in NY, the home of the 5/50, looks 5 years old up top, 50 years old underneath.
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Old 06-07-2007, 03:33 PM   #17
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He was talking to me Dave I am agreeing you and Jerry, like I said above, I havent really ever had any wiring issues. Speaking of whining, you better call me or Kim ya douche, you aint been up here in a few weekends. Some shieat went down at Coca Cola, and Paragon/Rausch are teh only off road parks now. Some coke head decide to go do donuts in the Verizon parking lot and flipped his car down the erosion wall. State closed coca cola (So I heard, but its closed and something DEFFINATLY happened to the erosion wall..)
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Old 06-07-2007, 08:48 PM   #18
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once again the power of stupid people in large numbers never ceases to amaze me. I have had some issues with vechiles the comanches starter went out and its being rebuilt. anyways should be back to my usual weekend warrior. tell kim suby started kemo on tuesday, he is doing good with it, bastards to strubbren to even slow down

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