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Old 03-28-2012, 05:19 PM   #1
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is 300.00 a good price for a rear brake job

i need just need my rear brakes done. the guy im taking it to saids that he will do it for 300.00 with parts and labor. should i go for it.

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Old 03-28-2012, 05:25 PM   #2
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Disc or drum?? Does it include rotors or drums along with shoes or pads??? Seems a little steep to me as I would do my own with new rotors and the best pads $200.00. But then again, I enjoy wrenching!! About an hour job if you have the proper tools......

If you don't wrench, or do not have the tools or location to do your own, $300 is a fair price. Go for it......

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Old 03-28-2012, 05:28 PM   #3
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Ouch!
Sounds like a good time to learn how to do it yourself.

what it cost me when I did my rear brakes.

Drums $33 x2 = $66
Shoes $17
All in one kit $6
Total $89

If you lived close by I would show how to do it.
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Old 03-28-2012, 06:32 PM   #4
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My 12 yr old nephew was helping me install a 4" lift this past weekend...he ask about brakes and how they worked.....we had the rear wheels off and he seen the drums. So I pulled the passenger side drum off and found the front shoe had the spring coiled into the shoe's mounting hole. We side tracked from our lift install, removed the shoes, looked everything over and we reinstalled them in 15 minutes. If you lived closer I would show you just like my nephew. In 30 minutes tops we would be done. Do I think $300 is over priced??? Yep ....by about $150 considering you can buy new shoes, the mounting spring kit, and drums for $150 and have the best brakes available.
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Old 03-28-2012, 06:39 PM   #5
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Way high no matter if it is disc or drum brakes.
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Old 03-28-2012, 06:41 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonii View Post
Ouch!
Sounds like a good time to learn how to do it yourself.

what it cost me when I did my rear brakes.

Drums $33 x2 = $66
Shoes $17
All in one kit $6
Total $89

If you lived close by I would show how to do it.
is it hard to do rear brake
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Old 03-28-2012, 06:48 PM   #7
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is it hard to do rear brake
If, you have been spoiled by disc brakes, it make seem that way. Tons of write ups available online. Really depends on your willingness to learn and the tools that you have or might have to buy. If, you need tools, they will last you a lifetime. You might not come out ahead if, you have to buy tools "this time" but, the next time will be much more cost effective.
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Old 03-28-2012, 06:55 PM   #8
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Getting mine done at a local 4x4 shop right now and they are charging me $80 in labor, I purchased the parts from Qtec for $39 with free shipping from the Qtec rep on here (they were here THE day after I placed the order), so I wouldnt pay more than $150 to get them done, personally

Original Replacement Parts 4723367MK - Rear Brake Shoe Set with Hardware for 90-00 Jeep® Wrangler YJ, TJ & Cherokee XJ with 9" X 2-1/2" Drums - Quadratec
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Old 03-28-2012, 07:57 PM   #9
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RUN! Your getting ROBBED! Save a little more and put in Disc if it is Drum.
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Old 03-28-2012, 08:21 PM   #10
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I wouldn't say your getting ripped off depending on what's being done, but for how simple brakes are, just do it yourself.

If you have rear drum brakes, the job is literally pulling springs, removing the shoes, and putting new springs on. Take a picture before you start, or only do one side at a time so you have a guide to follow. There are a million guides, and the link I followed when I first started is right below.

Jeep Rear Drum Brake Remove - Install and Adjust

There are two particular tools you'll need. The first is a spring puller to help you release the springs and put the new ones on.



The second is a brake spring compressor tool. This is an absolute must. When you remove the pads, there are tiny bars that hold the pads down with springs to provide the tension. This tool makes childs play out of removing the spring and only costs roughly $5. Just twist it and you'll feel the spring release.



From there it's all a matter of taking your time, removing springs and making a mental note of where things go. Always use a new spring kit, get proper brake grease and brake cleaning spray. Lube the contact points in the proper spot.

This is honestly one of the first jobs I performed, and the first time will take you a while, but now I'm a pro with drum brakes and actually sickingly enough - enjoy doing them more than disc brakes.



... that said, if you're replacing disc brake pads the job is a 10 minute one at best.
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:28 PM   #11
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wear gloves

I've done all my own brake work for 40 years. The one thing I have found with drum brakes is that a good pair of leather gloves is a finger saver.

I have the tools mentioned but never seem to use them. Just use a medium sized vice grips for the springs. I grip the round washer part of the retainer with a pliers, push in and rotate. Just popped the ones off the salvage Jeep last night and took about 30 seconds. But then the drum was off already.

The one part to check is the adjustment. There is a star adjuster in the bottom between the front and rear shoe. be sure to get it back in the right orientation. You will need to spin it back in as it will be backed out from the brakes wearing down.

Take some time and figure out just how they function. Makes it a lot easier to deal with.

Yoiu manually adjust it thorugh a slot in the back plate. That slot should have a rubber cover in it that you need to pop out and put back after you adjust it.

There is an adjust bar that ratchets the star wheel when you back up and apply the brakes. It is designed not to over tighten. But you can over tighten it manually, so you need to adjust it so you can just turn the drum without any drag.

This can be a dangerous operation as you need to be underneath to adjust it. Best to put the tire back on just to be safe. Better than block or jack stands.

Also you will need to deal with the emergency brake activator. You won't need to disconnect it from the cable. It is a pain to get it off and back on. There is a spring that holds it in place and an offset to the cable that locks it in so it don't fall off. But you should be able to change brakes out without taking the activator bar off the cable.

Check the drums for grooves. They can have some grooves and still be good. The rear brakes give only about 20% of the braking so they aren't heavily used.

Pay close attention to which springs go over the holder first and last. It is important that they go back in the same order.

Another thing is to check the wheel cylinder. You really should pull the rubber cup off and see if there is any brake fluid inside. If so, they need to be changed. You can push the rods back in and reuse them. But there will be a dirt ridge inside that has accumulated over time. That can cause a leak later. If you plan to keep the vehicle it is best to just replace the wheel cylinder. Also, that facilitates flushing the system which should also be done. Besides, the bleeder valves will probably be stuck and want to strip the hex off. Usually happens to me anyway.

As stated, it is actually quite simple and straight forward. As with anything there are some specific things to check. I would just figure on replacing the cylinders, shoes, spring kit, etc. That way you are done for another 150,000 miles. Drums depend on if they are actually grooved.

Good luck
There is an adjustment tool for adjsting it
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:53 PM   #12
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i need just need my rear brakes done. the guy im taking it to saids that he will do it for 300.00 with parts and labor. should i go for it.
Nope... Midas has a lifetime brake installation for $150 an axle. If you pay more than that, make sure that you are getting at least $200 in upgraded parts
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:11 PM   #13
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Nope... Midas has a lifetime brake installation for $150 an axle. If you pay more than that, make sure that you are getting at least $200 in upgraded parts
Sorry, I wouldn't trust Midas with my grandsons Bigwheel....
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:23 PM   #14
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Sorry, I wouldn't trust Midas with my grandsons Bigwheel....
A lot of people would though and for free lifetime replacements, $150 is a good price point comparison.
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:32 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wheel2Work

A lot of people would though and for free lifetime replacements, $150 is a good price point comparison.
I did all 4 and new rear U joints for 500
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:46 PM   #16
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A lot of people would though and for free lifetime replacements, $150 is a good price point comparison.
Chief, the Midas guarantee is a total crock. The use cheap parts and are happy when you come back for a warranty replacement. That way, they can charge you big time for labor to install some more dirt cheap brake pads/shoes. The quicker the parts wear out, the sooner you come back. This isn't their first rodeo; good luck beating them at their own game.
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:59 PM   #17
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I have worked for Napa, Autozone and Advance in the commercial department selling parts to auto repair shops including Midas, Firestone, Goodyear and plenty of private owned shops.

FYI... most of them buy the cheapest parts when you hire them to do a brake job and they charge you the highest price they can.


Brakes are a pretty easy routine maintenance repair that you can do yourself, and save yourself some money.
I just did a complete brake job on my '06 TJ.
On the rear: new drums, new shoes and new hardware (spring etc.)
On the front: new rotors, new ceramic pads and new rubber boots for the caliper bolts.
Pads and shoes are the best that Autozone sells and have free lifetime replacement.
Everything to do the job, including lubricant for caliper bolts and pads, brake parts cleaner, red paint for front calipers, black paint for rear drums and a Fruit Punch Powerade came in under $300.
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:01 PM   #18
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Chief, the Midas guarantee is a total crock. The use cheap parts and are happy when you come back for a warranty replacement. That way, they can charge you big time for labor to install some more dirt cheap brake pads/shoes. The quicker the parts wear out, the sooner you come back. This isn't their first rodeo; good luck beating them at their own game.
OK I'll submit... We are going to agree to disagree on how the lifetime guarantee works Still a $300 brake job is WAY too much for drum brakes.
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:18 PM   #19
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Still a $300 brake job is WAY too much for drum brakes.
It's also way less than Midas has been known to charge.
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:21 PM   #20
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I'll tell you I'm no mechanical genius, but I change my own brakes. I'm too cheap to pay someone. I just did the fronts on my 06 tj for 80$. That's rotors and pads. So if someone wants to charge me 300$, then I saved 200$ just by doing them myself. Its really a very easy job, don't let it intimidate you. My tool kit is pretty sparse and I'm able to easily change brakes even using the few things I have. A basic socket set, small vice grips, a c-clamp and a little bottle brake bleeder. I think that's about all I use.
Go for it, really easy to do. If I can, then you can. :-)
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Old 03-29-2012, 01:18 AM   #21
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This is a fairly easy task to do on your own. All you really need is a good set of pliers. I did my rear drums for the first time after a buddy had taken them completely apart and just left them. It took me a few minutes of looking at it and sorting out what went where but once i figured it out (with the help of a diagram of this very site) they went back together like cake. Trust me, the best way to learn is to just tear into it and get your hands dirty. It'll teach you more about your Jeep and then it is truly yours because your blood sweat and tears go into it. I say screw paying 300 bucks. Just dive in and learn it yourself. It may not be a huge task but this gives you confidence in your skills to tackle and figure out bigger tasks. The knowledge and pride in your work is worth it in the end.
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Old 03-29-2012, 07:36 AM   #22
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Depends on what is going to be done for that price,For Shoes-Wheel Cylinders-Hardware Kit-Labor Etc it's about a average shop price around here,Yes you can do it yourself much cheaper,Most shops do not buy parts from Advance-O Reillys-Autozone.
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Old 03-29-2012, 10:07 AM   #23
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Drum brakes are dead simple to fix, work on, swap out, and repair when everything goes right. When it doesn't, that 150 for labor will look like a godsend.

Don't let the guys quoting the very cheap prices for parts skew your perspective too much. If you get the premium stuff like we sell, the labor in the 300 dollar quote drops to 75 bucks.

And finally for the record, I've yet to see anyone take out an eye doing rear discs and I know a couple of guys who have done severe damage to themselves doing rear drums. One in particular was using needle nose vise grips and pulling on one of the big take up springs when they popped off. He was pulling towards his face and the end of the pliers went into his eye.

He is a pretty good one eyed weldor though.
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Old 03-29-2012, 10:08 AM   #24
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,Most shops do not buy parts from Advance-O Reillys-Autozone.
Yep, they do their best to buy the cheaper stuff.
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Old 03-29-2012, 10:14 AM   #25
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I paid $275 for the rear discs on my 8.8.

I bought calipers, rotors, pads, lines.
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:06 AM   #26
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Most shops do not buy parts from Advance-O Reillys-Autozone.
Those stores don't maintain all those delivery trucks for nothing. Somebody's buying their parts.
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:12 AM   #27
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Those stores don't maintain all those delivery trucks for nothing. Somebody's buying their parts.
Yeah... Local mom and pop shops... Or we used to get them to deliver to our high school auto shop.
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:33 AM   #28
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Aside from all the info so far, something else safety wise.

You are dealing with asbestos on most brake systems. Nasty little bugger that can lead to some serious health problems. Take the time, especially on drum brakes, to wear some type of breathing protection, body protection, and wash down the unit to reduce exposure to the asbestos dust.
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:43 AM   #29
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Are you getting this done at the dealer? Factory pads list at about $145.00 and labor with resurfacing runs about 1.4 hours with resurfacing rotor/drum thats equal to right around $300.00 at a dealer. Most shops locally can get get pads/shoes at a wholesale price from the dealer and i would definately resurface or replace rotor/drum when i get that done
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Old 03-29-2012, 12:15 PM   #30
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,Most shops do not buy parts from Advance-O Reillys-Autozone.
Wanna bet?

Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
Those stores don't maintain all those delivery trucks for nothing. Somebody's buying their parts.
A lot of shops are.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Peepers View Post
Yeah... Local mom and pop shops... Or we used to get them to deliver to our high school auto shop.
Not just local mom and pop shops guys. I'm telling you. I worked commercial for PepBoys, Autozone, Advance and Napa over the years. I also Managed an AAMCO shop for a while.

Autoparts store sell to all the major shops. Our biggest customers were Firestone, Goodyear, Midas, Tire Kingdom... you name it. The "mom and pop" shops were just a drop in the bucket.

Why do you think Autozone removed all of the AZ badging from their delivery trucks? Firestone told them to. It was part of their national account agreement. Firestone does so much business with AZ that they told them to remove the stickers from the trucks or they would not renew their contract....... that's right. Contract, national contract.

So go take your car to the shop and think that you aren't getting the same parts as the guy that walked into Autozone, or Advance or O Reillys.... truth be told, you are getting from there, you are just getting the cheap parts from there.

Only way you are not getting autopart store parts would be if you take it to the dealer. They use OEM parts..... which are usually a lesser quality than the high level stuff at an autoparts store.

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