This was my first Jeep build and I had it in my mind to go low center of gravity with MetalCloak fenders, 35's, a 2" OME and a 1" Total deprh UCF belly up pan. I avoided a costly long arm lift, it drives as good or better than stock on the road and handles off camber trails with ease, but at the sacrifice of ground clearemce and flex. Friends with 4-5.5" roll the same obstacles I do and their rigs drive nice on pavement, so as it really worth going LCG?
Anywhere that off camber situations are encountered will benefit from LCG. A tire in the air is better than all four in the air.
There are other ways to get more flex than MC fenders. There are DIY highlining threads are out to allow for more uptravel. Tube fenders or MCE flat fenders will gain a little more too.
Keep in mind that you also have to pay attention to your shocks. You don't want those guys bottoming out on you if you want them to last. For more gains in flex look into shock tower mods with F 150 brackets or tube brackets.
For clearance on the belly pan, yes a 5" lift with belly up pan will be 2" higher than a 3" lift given the same pan and tires but you can work with it. The important thing is to make the bottom as flat as possible (get rid of the shovel) and picking the right line so you will be fine sliding over stuff.
it's all realitve man. It depends on where you are wheeling and your style. I've seen 40's on 2" of lift or so. Just make it functional and whatever you like. I run a TT, 1.25" BL lift, 3" suspension, and MC overline fenders and do just fine.
YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.
IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
Perhaps you should look at easier-defined parameters that are easy to measure. I like belly height and up travel. I've got 19" of belly height and 6" of up travel at all corners measured from ride height to full bump. "Lift height" doesn't tell you anything of value, nor does saying that you're "LCG." Those two metrics are of value. Come up with a goal, set it where you want the belly, then get to work on the shock mounts and rest of the suspension to provide you with a nice 50/50 travel bias. Stability and balance (two supposed benefits of "LCG") come with a good suspension and a conscience height/length/width balance.
Well, I set a goal of 35" tires based on my axles D30/D44, I have Metalcloak fenders, so I started off with no lift, then added a 2" OME, which is sagging about an inch due to weight. I also have a UCF ultra high belly pan, which extends an inch below the frame rails. My rocker panels sit 23"/24" from the ground and the belly pan is 17.5". The only thing I have not done is replace the body mounts and the frame rail suspension arm mounts, which is why I am asking about the real benefit of LCOG. I need to change out my springs for heavier capacity springs, so I am second guessing my build and contemplating a good 4" long arm; e.g., Clayton, Metalcloak, etc., which will require about the same amount of effort by the time it is all done.