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Old 12-11-2010, 09:11 PM   #1
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is it worth the extra money?

i want a 4.0 so im selling the white devil (name drivin because my jeep hates me) is a rubicon worth the extra 5 or 6 grand?

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Old 12-11-2010, 09:14 PM   #2
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well, depends.. can you add the dana 44's, lockers 4:1 and lower gears for less than 5 to 6k, if you can then no its not a value..if you can't then yes.. Over all rubi's are a very nice option.

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Old 12-11-2010, 09:26 PM   #3
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Also depends if you are going to wheel the Jeep enough to actually need the dana 44's, lockers, 4:1 and lower gears. 44's would also be beneficial if you plan on putting on anything bigger then 33's.
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Old 12-12-2010, 01:57 PM   #4
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ive had a 99 SE, 00 Sport and now I have my 03 Rubi.... YES it is worth it!!!
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Old 12-12-2010, 02:05 PM   #5
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i want a 4.0 so im selling the white devil (name drivin because my jeep hates me) is a rubicon worth the extra 5 or 6 grand?
depends entirely upon how you intend to use your jeep. 4:1 is great for rocks, but not for mud.
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Old 12-12-2010, 02:26 PM   #6
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Having had a '97 Sport (stolen earlier this year) and now an '04 Rubicon I bought used, I miss my Sport. The only thing I really like about my Rubicon is its 4:1 transfer case which is good for my rock crawling interests but isn't a good ratio for any 4x4 needs where you need wheelspeed to get through like deep mud or snow. If I had it all to do over again, I would have bought a stock Sport and installed my own 4:1 and different f/r lockers.
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Old 12-12-2010, 02:36 PM   #7
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I agree 110% with Jerry. Remember the Rubi "D44" axles are not true D44's. They are a hybrid of D44 gears and just about all the rest are D35 parts and housing tubes. So the weak link in the Rubi 44 axles is still D35 strength parts.
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Old 12-12-2010, 02:53 PM   #8
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The Rubicon gets you...

- dana 44 axles, front and rear, which are stronger and can handle bigger tires
- locking differentials, front and rear
- 4:11 gears in the diffs
- the 241 transfer case, which has a 4:1 low range (great for slow crawling) and solid yokes (stronger than the standard slip yokes)
- diamond plate rocker guards
- if it's a JK, you get push-button swaybar disconnects
- a "Rubicon" sticker to let everyone know that you're super hard core

If you want to put on 35 inch tires and a 6 inch lift, get the Rubicon. You'll want the extra strength. If you're only doing light wheeling and plan on keeping it mostly stock, it's not worth the money.
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Old 12-12-2010, 02:58 PM   #9
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Biggest thing you have to remember, it will always be a Rubicon versus a sport with bolt on stuff. A rubicon will always be worth more because of what it is.
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Old 12-12-2010, 03:11 PM   #10
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Biggest thing you have to remember, it will always be a Rubicon versus a sport with bolt on stuff. A rubicon will always be worth more because of what it is.
I dunno, I'd pay more for a Sport with a 4:1 and ARB lockers than I would a Rubicon and its less desirable lockers like I ended up with.
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Old 12-12-2010, 03:20 PM   #11
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Well I know you would lol.....but 90 percent of the people on the market don't want someones project (myself included). Its the same as a muscle car the way I see it, whats a Nova restomod worth with a 502 in it versus a real Yenko nova with documentation?
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Old 12-12-2010, 03:24 PM   #12
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To me no . I,m not going to off road not going to rock crawl . I,m just going to drive my Wrangler and have fun .

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Old 12-12-2010, 03:36 PM   #13
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depends entirely upon how you intend to use your jeep. 4:1 is great for rocks, but not for mud.
I second that!
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Old 12-12-2010, 03:53 PM   #14
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Who uses 4-low in the mud? Just put it in 4-high.
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Old 12-13-2010, 04:42 AM   #15
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We use 4 low in mud up here all the time. But then again we usually will be 4low on the tcase and 2nd or 3rd in the trans. The rubi 4:1 is way too low for most of the wheeling we do out here, not enough wheel spin for our conditions.
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Old 12-13-2010, 04:47 AM   #16
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I have seen many stock rubi's that are just as capable as the bigger rigs. Its all in how you wheel it.
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Old 12-13-2010, 09:32 AM   #17
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So if I want a mudding jeep go for a sport? I like mudding more than rock crawling...
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Old 12-13-2010, 10:23 AM   #18
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Quote:
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I agree 110% with Jerry. Remember the Rubi "D44" axles are not true D44's. They are a hybrid of D44 gears and just about all the rest are D35 parts and housing tubes. So the weak link in the Rubi 44 axles is still D35 strength parts.
I totally didn't know that. That's enough of a difference that I'm a bit worried now about mine. Source please?
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Old 12-13-2010, 10:49 AM   #19
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Simply look up the parts, they are the same for both f. axles in the following;
Axle stub shaft
Axle u-joint
Unit bearing
Ball joints
Steering knuckle
Brake rotor, Brake calipher, brake pads, brake mtg. pins, brake lines, etc.
Now I know you can't look up part numbers for the inner "C's" but since the steering knuckle and ball joints are the same then so are they.
When modifying the caster and pinion angle by rotating the knuckle you have to cut off the welds, that exposes the axle tube, it was then that many of us discovered the tube wall thickness and diameter was the same as a D30.
Just noticed I made a typo, I meant to say the Rubi D44 is only as strong as a D30, not 35. when looking at the whole axle as an assembly.
I think calling the Rubi front axle a D44 is a misnomer, a D30hd is closer to the truth. But it still isn't accurate because where and how much of the D30 parts were used the GAWR can't be increased over what a stock D30 is rated.
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Old 12-13-2010, 10:53 AM   #20
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I am not trying to say the Rubi is a bad Jeep, nor am I judging those who own them. In fact I have said quite the opposite in other discussions. I have said the Rubi is the most capable off road Jeep ever offered by the factory. I just think they really missed the mark when it came to that front axle, and the lockers were problematic at best in the early years, and still not that great now.
Just know what you are getting, consider the price tag, AND consider how you will use it. What friedfish said is very true, the vehicle does not make a good driver, skill does.
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Old 12-13-2010, 11:08 AM   #21
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Same rule applies with dana 60 rears....they aren't even 1/3 as strong as the front and yet they are named the same
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Old 12-13-2010, 11:14 AM   #22
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Very true, depending on what model 60. There are some that are quite strong, but IMO most 60's are not the rear axle of choice from a strength point of view. I would choose a 14b, 70, or Sterling for a strong rear, maybe even a 9" over some of the weaker 60's.
But then we are not talking about going to one tons or Ford 9" in this thread.
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Old 12-13-2010, 11:19 AM   #23
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what friedfish said is very true, the vehicle does not make a good driver, skill does.
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Old 12-13-2010, 11:20 AM   #24
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The only 60 rear worth having would be out of an early 80's ford truck. Most had 35 splines and some even had powerlocks....other than that, I take them in for scrap
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Old 12-13-2010, 11:24 AM   #25
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OK Ggg, I'm considering the Rokmen Spider 9's, since I've gotten so much other stuff from them that I'm impressed with. What's your opinion of the Rokmen Spider 9's. (with 35" tires or even bigger) I mostly do Moab rock trails.
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Old 12-13-2010, 11:27 AM   #26
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Pretty sure there are lots of places that could build you the axles from scratch cheaper than they get for um
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Old 12-13-2010, 11:53 AM   #27
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I'll send you a PM so we do not hijack this thread.
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Old 12-13-2010, 02:57 PM   #28
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Yes I am glad I got the rubicon!
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Old 12-13-2010, 05:50 PM   #29
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I bought a Rubicon and haven't regretted it yet. I just graduated college not too long ago and would never had the money to build a sport. Then again again I have a cj 1 ton project at home and could have saved my money to build it faster. Wheeled my 04 Rubi Saturday and don't regret the money spent.
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Old 12-13-2010, 05:56 PM   #30
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My dad had a 97 4.0 5 speed. it was good offroad but i bought my 04 rubicon and its not at all comparable. If you can swing the extra $$ id go for it. I only got mine because it was a salvage from daveys jeeps. I thought 8k was a deal and a half since people want 10k for 04 x's with 4 bangers lol

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