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Old 07-12-2011, 09:50 PM   #1
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Jeep sounds flooded upon start-up

I have a 2001 Sahara 6 cyl auto that for the last several days with temps around 100 and running the air conditioner full time when it is re-started within 30 minutes to 3 hours after shut-down the engine sounds like its missing or flooded for 10-20 seconds before it smooths out. If it was a carbureated engine I'd think the float needle was sticking or the float level was set wrong, but what can it be with the injected engine?

I thought maybe the A/C being left on at shut-down and still on at start-up might be overloading the engine but it does the same even with the A/C turned off before starting the engine.

I installed new Autolight App plugs about 1,000 miles ago replacing the Bosh that had been in for around 30,000 miles even though they weren't causing any problems. The engine seemed to run/idle smoother with the new plugs though, until the last several days.

Any thoughts or ideas?

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Old 07-17-2011, 06:26 PM   #2
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Guess no one has any experience along this line or any good suggestions so probably the only solution will be the Jeep dealer. I know they have all the knowledge to fix all Jeep problems (said with tongue in cheek and trying not to laugh).

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Old 07-17-2011, 11:42 PM   #3
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I have that issue too...changed plugs (stock Champ replacements) and no change.

It does it at random around town driving...start it up and sounds like it's not running on all cylinders. Rev it up or just start driving and eventually all cylinders kick in and it stays normal from there on out. It did it bad today on my way home to OH from IL...drove 133 miles non-stop. Stopped at a Pilot to take a leak and fill my tank, restarted it and it was missing bad...revved it a few times, still missing...started driving...still missing. Hit about 3500 RPMs in first gear as I headed for the exit and the other cylinders finally kicked in and stayed.
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Old 07-18-2011, 09:50 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorving3 View Post
I have a 2001 Sahara 6 cyl auto that for the last several days with temps around 100 and running the air conditioner full time when it is re-started within 30 minutes to 3 hours after shut-down the engine sounds like its missing or flooded for 10-20 seconds before it smooths out. If it was a carbureated engine I'd think the float needle was sticking or the float level was set wrong, but what can it be with the injected engine?

I thought maybe the A/C being left on at shut-down and still on at start-up might be overloading the engine but it does the same even with the A/C turned off before starting the engine.

I installed new Autolight App plugs about 1,000 miles ago replacing the Bosh that had been in for around 30,000 miles even though they weren't causing any problems. The engine seemed to run/idle smoother with the new plugs though, until the last several days.

Any thoughts or ideas?
sounds like the coil is getting too hot
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Old 07-18-2011, 12:43 PM   #5
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Ditto a bad coil will act up after a heat soak.

Also make sure all the heat shields on the fuel rail/injectors are in place and in good shape. A hot soak rough running restart is also a sign of of vapor lock.
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Old 07-19-2011, 12:55 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelby427 View Post
Ditto a bad coil will act up after a heat soak.

Also make sure all the heat shields on the fuel rail/injectors are in place and in good shape. A hot soak rough running restart is also a sign of of vapor lock.
I've got an evap leak that's been causing CEL nightmares the past 6 months (smoke tested twice--replaced leak detection pump and gas cap)...my missing issue has been occurring longer than that, but could the two be related?
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Old 07-21-2011, 11:39 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Shelby427 View Post
Ditto a bad coil will act up after a heat soak.

Also make sure all the heat shields on the fuel rail/injectors are in place and in good shape. A hot soak rough running restart is also a sign of of vapor lock.
What kind of a coil arrangement do the distributorless engines have, and where should it be located? Mine is a 2001 6 Cylinder.
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Old 07-22-2011, 01:18 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorving3 View Post
What kind of a coil arrangement do the distributorless engines have, and where should it be located? Mine is a 2001 6 Cylinder.
Coil rail sits right on top of the plugs on the passenger side...it's a long rail that runs from front to back. Has a harness connector closest to the firewall and is held on with like 2 screws I think. Pretty easy to remove...I paid a buddy to change my plugs a while back and felt pretty stupid when he had them done in about 10 minutes.
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Old 07-22-2011, 04:33 PM   #9
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I've changed the plugs in mine a couple of times by removing that rail, but didn't realize that was also the coil. Will that whole long rail have to be changed if the problem is the coil/coils?
Just checked my new Haynes Manual (my old one ran from 1987-2000 which didn't show the coil rail) and got a good description of the coil rail, but that electrical connection on the end looks to be a hassle pushing and pulling everything in the right order to get it to separate. Guess things will be more clear when I actually have to remove the rail.

I had a intermittent "check engine light" within the first year or so when the Jeep was new and they changed the air pump, something on the engine I didn't see them change, the gas cap, but after over a year with the same problem they ended up dropping the gas tank and it was leaking around the cap on top. Had to replace the tank and no more problems there for over 5 years now (maybe I should be knocking on wood someplace).
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Old 07-23-2011, 08:40 PM   #10
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I would check fuel pressure an make shure you dont have a weak pump, that was the problem on my cherokee when it did the same thing.
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Old 07-23-2011, 09:23 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Shelby427 View Post
Ditto a bad coil will act up after a heat soak.

Also make sure all the heat shields on the fuel rail/injectors are in place and in good shape. A hot soak rough running restart is also a sign of of vapor lock.
Do the newer vehicles with the fuel pump mounted in the fuel tank still have the possibility of vapor lock? I always thought a vapor lock occurred when the fuel pump got so warm (hot) the fuel in it turned to vapor which the pump could not move. Can this happen in the fuel tank?
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Old 07-23-2011, 09:31 PM   #12
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I would check fuel pressure an make shure you dont have a weak pump, that was the problem on my cherokee when it did the same thing.
How long can this go on before it leaves you sitting on the side of the road or left in a parking lot someplace? This only happened about 3-4 times recently just after running in place to keep the air conditioner going while the wife grocery shopped. We used to just install an electric fuel pump anytime the problem was vapor lock or weak fuel pump, which was the easiest permenant fix. Can this be done with today's fuel injected engines?

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