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Old 04-19-2011, 10:29 PM   #31
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Ah, some relief. You know how it is, you buy something like this and automatically have some buyers remorse b/c you know it's not a real necessity. And then to start reading through all this and go "well crap".

Good news....I'll defintely be installing the 2" bumpstops.

I'll take pics of the install & before & afters.

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Old 04-19-2011, 11:55 PM   #32
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Yeah... I'd like to hear more from Unlimited on this as well.

I was planning to call Dirk tomorrow to order my Ultimate kit. I'm planning to not use the BL as I am only going with 265/75/16's. I want a beefier look without straying too far from the stock look, but I'm willing to spend the $ up front to get a "complete" kit done RIGHT. Now I'm not feeling as confident???

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Old 04-20-2011, 12:02 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
set your bumpstops correctly and you won't have any problems.
This is the critical component that causes all the confusion.
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Old 04-20-2011, 12:39 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLjeep View Post
Yeah... I'd like to hear more from Unlimited on this as well.

I was planning to call Dirk tomorrow to order my Ultimate kit. I'm planning to not use the BL as I am only going with 265/75/16's. I want a beefier look without straying too far from the stock look, but I'm willing to spend the $ up front to get a "complete" kit done RIGHT. Now I'm not feeling as confident???
OME & JKS are two of the best names in the business. Call Dirk and talk to him tomorrow. He'll probably tell you to only believe about 1/2 of what you read on the forums. LOL He know's these kits like the back of his hand, as he has sold them for the past 10-15 years.

When you spend $1200 to $1500 on a lift, the last thing you want to read, is someone telling you send your parts back because they are going to give you problems. I respectfully disagree, as these parts will work fine for me, as they have worked fine for thousands of others.

Give Dirk a call, and rest assured, your spending your money wisely IMHO.
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Old 04-20-2011, 06:48 AM   #35
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I ordered the hd springs as well. Also the sport shocks. Dirk called and said arb was behind and it's the busiest time of the year. It should be here any day now. Body and motor mount lift are on already.
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Old 04-20-2011, 11:08 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tjae View Post
Unlimited, what is your overall opinion on your OME springs & shocks?
I love my OME springs and shocks. I replaced the 933 HD front's with 934's, so I must like em if I'm willing to buy another set of OME springs! My LJ is fat and heavy, especially in the front...so I wanted to eliminate "leveling" spacers and do it right by getting the proper spring rate on the front. My only complaint about OME is they don't include the proper bumpstop extensions for the rear or the longer bolts...you actually need ~1.25" minimum bumpstop extension in the rear. OME only includes 0.8". You can make up the difference with grade 8 fender washers if you like.

Please make sure to read & digest how to check your bumpstops.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/corr...gth-70047.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tjae View Post
Like I said before, I read your build thread, and asked specifically to Dirk if the front track bar would be an issue, and I was assured that it would not.
Dirk's actually wrong on this one. I'll bet hes just going on what JKS told him. I just showed you pics of the new generation JKS needing ~1" bumpstop to clear a ZJ v8 tie-rod, and ~2" bumpstop to clear a stock tie-rod.

You're almost better off with the old style JKS...at least that didn't hit the tie-rod (but it hit the diff cover). hitting the tie-rod is worse than hitting the diff cover!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tjae View Post
I did lots of research before my purchase, and I'm afraid others whom have done the same, may come away from this thread a little confused.

Tjae
The main thing is do NOT trust what people say. I don't care if its Dirk, me, mrblaine, joe blow on the forums or John Currie himself. If you're worried about suspension/track bar/diff cover clearance YOU need to check it. Thats why I post all this educational crap....so YOU learn something & can go check it YOURSELF.

It doesn't matter what other people run - what matters is what works for YOUR rig and YOUR setup. I can tell you what to do all day till we're both blue in the face and will not have learned anything...you gotta go see it yourself, on your rig. And yes, that might mean you waste money on stuff and go ohhh crap. I know i have.

In my case, 1-3/8" bumpstop, a ZJ tie-rod & hacking half the face off the "SOLI" cover was necessary to clear the track bar.

Please make sure to read & digest how to check your bumpstops.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/corr...gth-70047.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by FLjeep View Post
Yeah... I'd like to hear more from Unlimited on this as well.

I was planning to call Dirk tomorrow to order my Ultimate kit. I'm planning to not use the BL as I am only going with 265/75/16's. I want a beefier look without straying too far from the stock look, but I'm willing to spend the $ up front to get a "complete" kit done RIGHT. Now I'm not feeling as confident???
Dirk knows his stuff for the most part. I'd still recommend buying from him, he's a good guy and has the best prices around.

But like I said above - don't trust what others say. Mainly because your rig might be different...blame it on manufacturering tolerances if you want. But the only way YOU will know if you have issues is to CHECK YOURSELF. While installing the lift - Push the axle to full bump with a floor jack on each side - with the new shocks installed & the springs removed. That will give you the minimum bumpstop extension requirement you need. Flexing it doesn't tell you crap about suspension clearance...it only says something about tire clearance.

Please make sure to read & digest how to check your bumpstops.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/corr...gth-70047.html

I would recommend using the STOCK track bars on less than 4" of lift, unless you're willing to lose uptravel and run 2" or more bumpstop extension. The reason I say stay away from aftermarket bars in front is simply because they create more issues than they're worth. And stay away from aftermarket diff covers. Solid, Riddler and ARB covers create the most interference...stick with stock covers, bolt on skids & junkyard 70s front D44 covers (3/16" thick), or a Barnett/T&J cover.

You can modify the stock track bars in many ways to make them work great...and they're plenty strong for most folks. You can weld some 1/8" plate to the front axle side mount to reinforce it, then drill a new hole...or you can cut the track bar in half along the straight section, sleeve it, and weld it back together. Bingo, two ways to recenter your axle without an adjustable front bar. In the rear, do the relocation bracket, and reinforce the axle side bracket a bit. You won't have any issues with that combo until you go over 4" and/or get a CV shaft.

And remember - once you drill out the stock frame side mount for a new fancy supposedly "working" adjustable front track bar, you can't go back to stock. Sure, the manufacturer will say you can...but you just drilled half the taper out...and the stock tie-rod end track bar will wallow that hole out and work loose over time. Only way to fix it is bore it out completely, and TIG weld in a new taper piece.

Please make sure to read & digest how to check your bumpstops.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/correct-bumpstop-length-70047.html
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Old 04-20-2011, 11:43 AM   #37
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Dirk includes 2" bumpstops with his Ultimate set-up for this reason.
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License to kill gophers by the government of the United Nations. Man, free to kill gophers at will. To kill, you must know your enemy, and in this case my enemy is a varmint. And a varmint will never quit - ever. They're like the Viet Cong - Varmint Cong. So you have to fall back on superior intelligence and superior firepower. And that's all she wrote.
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Old 04-20-2011, 11:54 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick50471 View Post
Dirk includes 2" bumpstops with his Ultimate set-up for this reason.
well there ya go. make sure to get the bumpstops...but still check like i mentioned above...so YOU understand whats going on
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Old 04-20-2011, 01:15 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
well there ya go. make sure to get the bumpstops...but still check like i mentioned above...so YOU understand whats going on
Very good advice.

Checking the fit and function is critical. When you hear that noise you know is not supposed to be there you are prepared. Doing the work yourself is also a big plus if you are planning on wheeling.
__________________
License to kill gophers by the government of the United Nations. Man, free to kill gophers at will. To kill, you must know your enemy, and in this case my enemy is a varmint. And a varmint will never quit - ever. They're like the Viet Cong - Varmint Cong. So you have to fall back on superior intelligence and superior firepower. And that's all she wrote.
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Old 04-21-2011, 11:54 PM   #40
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Dirk knows his stuff for the most part. I'd still recommend buying from him, he's a good guy and has the best prices around.

But like I said above - don't trust what others say. Mainly because your rig might be different...blame it on manufacturering tolerances if you want. But the only way YOU will know if you have issues is to CHECK YOURSELF. While installing the lift - Push the axle to full bump with a floor jack on each side - with the new shocks installed & the springs removed. That will give you the minimum bumpstop extension requirement you need. Flexing it doesn't tell you crap about suspension clearance...it only says something about tire clearance.

Please make sure to read & digest how to check your bumpstops.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/corr...gth-70047.html

I would recommend using the STOCK track bars on less than 4" of lift, unless you're willing to lose uptravel and run 2" or more bumpstop extension. The reason I say stay away from aftermarket bars in front is simply because they create more issues than they're worth. And stay away from aftermarket diff covers. Solid, Riddler and ARB covers create the most interference...stick with stock covers, bolt on skids & junkyard 70s front D44 covers (3/16" thick), or a Barnett/T&J cover.

You can modify the stock track bars in many ways to make them work great...and they're plenty strong for most folks. You can weld some 1/8" plate to the front axle side mount to reinforce it, then drill a new hole...or you can cut the track bar in half along the straight section, sleeve it, and weld it back together. Bingo, two ways to recenter your axle without an adjustable front bar. In the rear, do the relocation bracket, and reinforce the axle side bracket a bit. You won't have any issues with that combo until you go over 4" and/or get a CV shaft.

And remember - once you drill out the stock frame side mount for a new fancy supposedly "working" adjustable front track bar, you can't go back to stock. Sure, the manufacturer will say you can...but you just drilled half the taper out...and the stock tie-rod end track bar will wallow that hole out and work loose over time. Only way to fix it is bore it out completely, and TIG weld in a new taper piece.

Please make sure to read & digest how to check your bumpstops.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/correct-bumpstop-length-70047.html[/QUOTE]

Thank you! It's guys like you that make this forum great. I appreciate (as I'm sure everyone else does) you taking so much time to share your knowledge and experience.

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