Just a newbie looking for help deciding what to do. And yes, 35" tires. - Page 2 - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ General Discussion Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 02-14-2013, 05:32 PM   #31
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
ken78744's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 689
My Rims are American Racing ATX Series Teflon Coated rims 8" wide and 4" backspacing so tires don't rub...

They stay clean because of rhe Teflon coating...

ken78744 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-14-2013, 05:34 PM   #32
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 38
That's not the stock ratio, is it?

EDIT: I'll look at those too, thanks.

Thunder Mass is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-14-2013, 05:46 PM   #33
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
ken78744's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 689
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunder Mass View Post
That's not the stock ratio, is it?

EDIT: I'll look at those too, thanks.
For the LJ 3.73 gears and Dana44 stock you couldn't get it any other way in 04 they didn't even make a LJ Rubicon :-( until 05...
ken78744 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-14-2013, 05:54 PM   #34
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 38
Mkay, so my stock '05 Unlimted has the proper axle, and the gears aren't perfect for 35s, but they'll work for now. I have a slight problem with my 1st gear, nothing I can't manage though. I guess I'll wait until I decide on a tire size before I replace them. Also I saw a $40 piece that can help fix the speedo error.
Thunder Mass is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-14-2013, 06:03 PM   #35
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
ken78744's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 689
What's up with 1st is yours a standard or auto??? If it is a standard your gearing wont be as noticeable has mine was because mine is a auto... I need 4.88s for 35s and 4.56s for 33s with my auto... A standard would be good at 4.10s with 33s and 4.56s or 4.88s for 35"s depending on how much lowend torque you want more torque go lower with the gears...
ken78744 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-14-2013, 06:17 PM   #36
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 38
I guess powerwise I'd like to keep it as similar to stock as possible, I have no reason to change it aside from adjusting it to resemble what it already is.

It's a manual. A year ago my dad was rearended at a stop light. Only the bumper was damaged, but sometimes it likes to pop out of first. I think it's when the clutch and accelorator aren't even. I keep the stick pressed forward/backward when I'm shifting anyway, so it almost never happens to me. Not a huge problem, but enough to warrant concern.
Thunder Mass is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-14-2013, 06:44 PM   #37
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
ken78744's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 689
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunder Mass View Post
I guess powerwise I'd like to keep it as similar to stock as possible, I have no reason to change it aside from adjusting it to resemble what it already is.

It's a manual. A year ago my dad was rearended at a stop light. Only the bumper was damaged, but sometimes it likes to pop out of first. I think it's when the clutch and accelorator aren't even. I keep the stick pressed forward/backward when I'm shifting anyway, so it almost never happens to me. Not a huge problem, but enough to warrant concern.
Damn that sucks can u get insurance to cover that something like the main shaft in the tranny is bent...
ken78744 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-14-2013, 07:15 PM   #38
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 38
We tried to, but for some reason no one at the dealership could get it to pop out. I've only had it happen once or twice, just because I drive a certain way, I guess.
Thunder Mass is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-14-2013, 07:19 PM   #39
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
ken78744's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 689
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunder Mass View Post
We tried to, but for some reason no one at the dealership could get it to pop out. I've only had it happen once or twice, just because I drive a certain way, I guess.
Hey you saying no one esle gets it to happen makes me think the slave cylinder is in a slight bind, live with it if I was you...
ken78744 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-14-2013, 07:53 PM   #40
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 38
I can make it work without any problem. Just that if it's something that should be fixed I'd like to do it at some time.
Thunder Mass is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-14-2013, 08:21 PM   #41
05 TJ

WF Supporting Member
 
K9HDLR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunder Mass

No worries mate. Just good to know that my axle is one less thing to be purchased.

I like it! But I'm thinking I really want the 35s. I guess I'll have to see them in person before I decide. Do you have any problems with the gear ratio, or speedometer with them?

Nice. Same question though, do you have any problems with the gear ratio or speedometer? I'll probably have enough money in a month or so, I'm sure by then I'll have made up my mind.
I can tell that I'm turning 35s but I do have a manual trans. Speedo is off a bit but that's an easy fix with a new speedo gear for about $25. I'll be re-gearing soon. Going with 4.88s. Love the difference in 35s over 33s!
__________________
My partner Samson says do I get to go?
K9HDLR is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-14-2013, 08:39 PM   #42
Jeeper
 
DetroitRodeo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 374
I'm running 35's on my Rubi LJ, auto, no regearing. No complaints, performs well on the highway and on the trails. Take it I'm not running at 80mph but a good 65-70 no issues whatsoever.
DetroitRodeo is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-14-2013, 10:43 PM   #43
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
ken78744's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 689
Quote:
Originally Posted by DetroitRodeo View Post
I'm running 35's on my Rubi LJ, auto, no regearing. No complaints, performs well on the highway and on the trails. Take it I'm not running at 80mph but a good 65-70 no issues whatsoever.
Detroit

The Rubicons come with 4.10 gears all other LJs have 3.73 gears...

So you can run 35s with factory gear ratio and not really notice the torque shortage...
ken78744 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-14-2013, 11:01 PM   #44
Jeeper
 
DetroitRodeo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 374
Quote:
Originally Posted by ken78744

Detroit

The Rubicons come with 4.10 gears all other LJs have 3.73 gears...

So you can run 35s with factory gear ratio and not really notice the torque shortage...
Yes, I'm aware. Just saw mention of 4.88's so was sharing my experience with the smaller 4.10's and an auto.
DetroitRodeo is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-16-2013, 10:50 AM   #45
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 38
I'm thinking I gotta go with the 33s, simply becasue of the extra cost for the 35s, and the setup I'm going for is fine for 33s, but with a few extra parts it should be fine with the 35s, in a little while.

I really can't justify going over $4000 right now. What I think I'm missing are the steering, brakes, and gear ratio. If I really don't need to upgrade the steering or brakes right now, since it's going to be for street and some trails, and the gearing isn't too expensive, then I suppose I can do the 35s. Can I get by without upgrading the brakes and steering, and how much am I looking at for the gears?

And thanks evreybody for helping me out with this, it's much appreciated.
Thunder Mass is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-16-2013, 11:40 AM   #46
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
ken78744's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 689
Looking at like $1800 for the gearing...
ken78744 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-16-2013, 12:08 PM   #47
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 38
Really? Wow, that's surprising. I thought all I'd need is something like this:
Ring & Pinion & Master Overhaul Kit for 03-06 Jeep® Wrangler TJ & Unlimited Rubicon with Dana 44 Front & Rear Axle - Quadratec
Just to change the gearing ratio. Guess not, though.
Thunder Mass is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-16-2013, 01:56 PM   #48
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
98 tj sport's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: eden nc
Posts: 1,371
Images: 1
Correct that's the parts then u have to figure in labor unless u know someone that knows how to set gears, also incase u didn't know that's the price per axle for parts.so 350 per axle, but u can prolly find the parts cheaper
__________________
98 sport, 4inch skyjacker lift, 35" goodyear wrangler mtrs with kevlar on 15x10 black streetlock wheels, smittybuilt rear bumber with tire carrier, warn m8000 winch, windshield mount hellas, and a rhinolined interior, with aussie locked dana 30 front dana 44 rear with a yukon grizzly locker, 4.10 gears with a 3speed 32rh
98 tj sport is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-16-2013, 01:59 PM   #49
Rock-Rubber

WF Supporting Member
 
GoldenSahara00's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: SCPA
Posts: 16,555
It's very possible to do what you want but it takes a ton of planning, smart shopping, preparation, and DIY know-how. Don't forget about brakes and steering with those larger tires as well. You can get by without them but, it's not going to be nearly as safe or reliable on the streets or trails. You can do A LOT with 3500 if you are smart.

I would go with a smaller lift on your LJ and avoid the SYE/CV costs. try zones 3 inch kit, a 1.25 inch body lift, and some tube fenders, highlines, and add bumpstop as needed. Unless you are considering a tummy tuck, in which case go with the sye/cv. keep in mind you will also need at least rear upper control arms to adjust the pinion angle of the axle if that is the case. So you have about a grand tied up in those three items. New tires in 35 flavor are going to be another grand for 5. Your lift is going to be at least 500. That gives you 1000 left for your wheels, steering, brakes, whatever you need. And your gona need that money.

If you go with a 3 inch lift, 1.25 body lift, shop around for some used 35s with good tread still that come with wheels, You could get away with around 1000-1300 for what would cost you double that if you bought all new and went with 4 inches instead of 3. You can easily gain that inch of clearance back through fender mods.
__________________
Ryan - A good eye, a light foot, and a smart rig.
Bolt-ons are boring
AMERICAN JEEPER
My Build - http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/pr...a00-74622.html
Rausch Creek Trip: 2014 Trip Coming Soon
GoldenSahara00 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-16-2013, 03:05 PM   #50
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98 tj sport View Post
Correct that's the parts then u have to figure in labor unless u know someone that knows how to set gears, also incase u didn't know that's the price per axle for parts.so 350 per axle, but u can prolly find the parts cheaper
I've got people that can help me with the suspension and driveshaft installation, not sure about the gears though. So is that a complete installation kit? Cuz there's also this one:
Alloy USA D44410 - Alloy USA Ring & Pinion Sets for 97-06 Jeep® Wrangler TJ & Unlimited with Dana 44 Rear Axle - Quadratec
Same thing, I think, but it doesn't have as much. It says in the description that the parts fot the complete set are sold seperately, so I'm guessing that what the first link has that this one doesn't have is what I need. And then I need that X2. Wonderful. But you're right, I haven't even looked at ebay or anything. I should check out those places first.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
It's very possible to do what you want but it takes a ton of planning, smart shopping, preparation, and DIY know-how. Don't forget about brakes and steering with those larger tires as well. You can get by without them but, it's not going to be nearly as safe or reliable on the streets or trails. You can do A LOT with 3500 if you are smart.

I would go with a smaller lift on your LJ and avoid the SYE/CV costs. try zones 3 inch kit, a 1.25 inch body lift, and some tube fenders, highlines, and add bumpstop as needed. Unless you are considering a tummy tuck, in which case go with the sye/cv. keep in mind you will also need at least rear upper control arms to adjust the pinion angle of the axle if that is the case. So you have about a grand tied up in those three items. New tires in 35 flavor are going to be another grand for 5. Your lift is going to be at least 500. That gives you 1000 left for your wheels, steering, brakes, whatever you need. And your gona need that money.

If you go with a 3 inch lift, 1.25 body lift, shop around for some used 35s with good tread still that come with wheels, You could get away with around 1000-1300 for what would cost you double that if you bought all new and went with 4 inches instead of 3. You can easily gain that inch of clearance back through fender mods.
I totally forgot to look at Ebay, amazon, or anything else like that. I haven’t even looked at local shops either, because I want to find what I need at the cheapest price possible, and then if the shop can beat the price (probably not, but who knows) get it from them. How much of a safety issue are we talking? As I’m sure you’ve guessed this isn’t going to be the meanest rock crawling machine ever made, but I do want it to be a capable trail rig, while still being a daily driver. I guess if it’s really a safety issue, I’ll have to look at it more. I’m trying to be smart with my money, by badgering you all with questions and planning for about a month before I buy anything.


The Zone 3” is the same cost as the 4”, I believe, which is one of the reasons I wanted the 4”, that and little more height, though I’m sure to the eye 1” won’t be too noticeable. As for the tummy tuck, I’m not sure what you mean. I’m still learning, but when reading up on the SYE and CV, I’ve seen pics of other rigs’ driveshaft just hanging low. I’m guessing that kinda takes away from the clearance, right? Making it less capable on the trail. I would have no problem going to a 3” lift to save myself from the need of a SYE and CV, but if that’s gonna cause clearance issues on trails, I dunno if it’s the best route. If it’ll be fine, then great idea! Tube fenders and bump stops, I’ll look into that. My friends should know all about bump stops. What should I be looking at for the control arms?

I’d like all new if possible, and the tires are BFGoodrich all terrains and Procomp ally rims. I got them online for $1700 shipped. Not great, but not too bad, methinks. I’d also like to ask about the steering and breaks, but I’ll do some more research for myself.

I really have no idea what I’m doing, but that’s why I’m getting help from you all, and getting installation help from people on base (btw, bases have complete garages with every tool imaginable at our disposal) so that I can save money, and learn something.

EDIT: I also keep forgetting, can I safely put a 35" spare on a stock back end, with or without an adapter, or do I need to get something else? That could save some money on this build too.
Thunder Mass is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-16-2013, 03:11 PM   #51
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
98 tj sport's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: eden nc
Posts: 1,371
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunder Mass View Post

I've got people that can help me with the suspension and driveshaft installation, not sure about the gears though. So is that a complete installation kit? Cuz there's also this one:
Alloy USA D44410 - Alloy USA Ring & Pinion Sets for 97-06 Jeep® Wrangler TJ & Unlimited with Dana 44 Rear Axle - Quadratec
Same thing, I think, but it doesn't have as much. It says in the description that the parts fot the complete set are sold seperately, so I'm guessing that what the first link has that this one doesn't have is what I need. And then I need that X2. Wonderful. But you're right, I haven't even looked at ebay or anything. I should check out those places first.

I totally forgot to look at Ebay, amazon, or anything else like that. I haven’t even looked at local shops either, because I want to find what I need at the cheapest price possible, and then if the shop can beat the price (probably not, but who knows) get it from them. How much of a safety issue are we talking? As I’m sure you’ve guessed this isn’t going to be the meanest rock crawling machine ever made, but I do want it to be a capable trail rig, while still being a daily driver. I guess if it’s really a safety issue, I’ll have to look at it more. I’m trying to be smart with my money, by badgering you all with questions and planning for about a month before I buy anything.


The Zone 3” is the same cost as the 4”, I believe, which is one of the reasons I wanted the 4”, that and little more height, though I’m sure to the eye 1” won’t be too noticeable. As for the tummy tuck, I’m not sure what you mean. I’m still learning, but when reading up on the SYE and CV, I’ve seen pics of other rigs’ driveshaft just hanging low. I’m guessing that kinda takes away from the clearance, right? Making it less capable on the trail. I would have no problem going to a 3” lift to save myself from the need of a SYE and CV, but if that’s gonna cause clearance issues on trails, I dunno if it’s the best route. If it’ll be fine, then great idea! Tube fenders and bump stops, I’ll look into that. My friends should know all about bump stops. What should I be looking at for the control arms?

I’d like all new if possible, and the tires are BFGoodrich all terrains and Procomp ally rims. I got them online for $1700 shipped. Not great, but not too bad, methinks. I’d also like to ask about the steering and breaks, but I’ll do some more research for myself.

I really have no idea what I’m doing, but that’s why I’m getting help from you all, and getting installation help from people on base (btw, bases have complete garages with every tool imaginable at our disposal) so that I can save money, and learn something.
Not doubting ur help but if they haven't ever set up gears it isn't the easiest thing to do, and the reason he was telling u to do the 3 in sl with the bl is so u will have the same amount of lift but it would cost less cuz at 3 inches u shouldn't need a sye and new driveshaft which saves u at least 500
__________________
98 sport, 4inch skyjacker lift, 35" goodyear wrangler mtrs with kevlar on 15x10 black streetlock wheels, smittybuilt rear bumber with tire carrier, warn m8000 winch, windshield mount hellas, and a rhinolined interior, with aussie locked dana 30 front dana 44 rear with a yukon grizzly locker, 4.10 gears with a 3speed 32rh
98 tj sport is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-16-2013, 03:18 PM   #52
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 38
I think they can do the gears, but I gotta ask them first. Will I lose anything by doing a 3" instead of a 4"? Turns out the 3" is in fact cheaper. Also, how do you like the lift?
Thunder Mass is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-16-2013, 04:22 PM   #53
Rock-Rubber

WF Supporting Member
 
GoldenSahara00's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: SCPA
Posts: 16,555
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunder Mass
I think they can do the gears, but I gotta ask them first. Will I lose anything by doing a 3" instead of a 4"? Turns out the 3" is in fact cheaper. Also, how do you like the lift?
Lots of questions I'll try to answer but I'm on my phone. You want to be able to stop right? You'll want to at least upgrade your front brakes since they do most of the stopping. Looking into black magic brakes. They are supposed to be able to stop 35s before a more major upgrade.

Steering is a toss up. A cheap upgrade is the zj v8 tie rod. There are other components you can address as well.

The 3 inch lift doesn't come zones iffy control arms. You want adjustables to dial in your pinion if you do go with an sye/cv. So your sort of wasting your money. Also most people prefer an arm with a Johnny joint. I have no experience with zone arms.

I have the 3 inch kit and it's great. No complains.

The only thing your losing is an inch of clearance. You can gain that back easily several ways. 4 inches is a little high for me personally.

You will save some money at first and then add more mods as you go like the sye and cv. The "tummy tuck" is basically doing a sye, new driveshaft, new flat or near flat skid plate to replace the shovel of a stock one, and effectively tucking your belly of the jeep up much higher.
__________________
Ryan - A good eye, a light foot, and a smart rig.
Bolt-ons are boring
AMERICAN JEEPER
My Build - http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/pr...a00-74622.html
Rausch Creek Trip: 2014 Trip Coming Soon
GoldenSahara00 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-16-2013, 04:42 PM   #54
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
Lots of questions I'll try to answer but I'm on my phone. You want to be able to stop right? You'll want to at least upgrade your front brakes since they do most of the stopping. Looking into black magic brakes. They are supposed to be able to stop 35s before a more major upgrade.

Steering is a toss up. A cheap upgrade is the zj v8 tie rod. There are other components you can address as well.

The 3 inch lift doesn't come zones iffy control arms. You want adjustables to dial in your pinion if you do go with an sye/cv. So your sort of wasting your money. Also most people prefer an arm with a Johnny joint. I have no experience with zone arms.

I have the 3 inch kit and it's great. No complains.

The only thing your losing is an inch of clearance. You can gain that back easily several ways. 4 inches is a little high for me personally.

You will save some money at first and then add more mods as you go like the sye and cv. The "tummy tuck" is basically doing a sye, new driveshaft, new flat or near flat skid plate to replace the shovel of a stock one, and effectively tucking your belly of the jeep up much higher.
Yeah, I kinda ask a lot of questions, but even one answer and I'm happy. Are we talking brake pads, or all new brakes? That's where I'm getting a little worried on the price of things, same with the steering. I'll lurk the forums with those key words and see what I can scrounge up. Same with the arms. Glad to hear you're liking the lift.
Thunder Mass is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-17-2013, 08:46 AM   #55
Rock-Rubber

WF Supporting Member
 
GoldenSahara00's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: SCPA
Posts: 16,555
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunder Mass

Yeah, I kinda ask a lot of questions, but even one answer and I'm happy. Are we talking brake pads, or all new brakes? That's where I'm getting a little worried on the price of things, same with the steering. I'll lurk the forums with those key words and see what I can scrounge up. Same with the arms. Glad to hear you're liking the lift.
The black magic kit and pads and suggested new centric rotors using the rest of the stock braking system. The next step after that would be something like the vanco conversion. Which is something like triple that cost. I believe the black magic kit should be sufficient and is like 225 or so.
__________________
Ryan - A good eye, a light foot, and a smart rig.
Bolt-ons are boring
AMERICAN JEEPER
My Build - http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/pr...a00-74622.html
Rausch Creek Trip: 2014 Trip Coming Soon
GoldenSahara00 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-17-2013, 12:34 PM   #56
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 38
Is this it?
Jeep Wranger (TJ) 1999 - 2006 Front Brake Package
But that one has calipers, if I don't need them, just the rotors and pads, then yeah it's $235. Not a bad price for safety.
Thunder Mass is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-17-2013, 01:06 PM   #57
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 38
And I gotta wonder, can I just beef up the tailgate somehow? I've got about $380 lined up for a new rear bumper and spare tire mount, because the stock gate can't handle a 35" tire. So rather than spending nearly $400, could I just make the stock one a little better? I don't know how, of course, but I gott ask
Thunder Mass is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-17-2013, 07:04 PM   #58
Rock-Rubber

WF Supporting Member
 
GoldenSahara00's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: SCPA
Posts: 16,555
There is really no way to do it that is easy. I am sure if you want to go into some heavy fab work you could just swap to different brackets. But you might as well go to a swing out carrier.
__________________
Ryan - A good eye, a light foot, and a smart rig.
Bolt-ons are boring
AMERICAN JEEPER
My Build - http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/pr...a00-74622.html
Rausch Creek Trip: 2014 Trip Coming Soon
GoldenSahara00 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-17-2013, 07:28 PM   #59
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 38
Blasted. Well, a girl can dream... (not a girl, just always wanted to say that)

Okay, I think I've got about everything I need. I've got tires, rims, suspension and body lift, fender, speedometer gear, rear bumper/tire mount, fenders, and brakes. I found what I think are the gears I need/want, just gotta make sure they work.
Thunder Mass is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-17-2013, 10:14 PM   #60
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by ken78744 View Post
Here is a picture of my LJ with 33s 4" lift and 2" spacers up front to help with the weight of the winch and bumper... and lots and lots of other mods too...


Attachment 209881



Attachment 209882

After much discussion with the guys who will help me do all of this stuff, and looking at my budget, I'm gonna go with something like this Jeep.

33" BFG tires on 15" Procomp alloy rims
4" Zone lift
SYE
Tom Woods driveshaft
Fenders
Speedometer gear

That all keeps me within my $3500 budget, I might add a front bumper and winch later. This way if in a few years I still want the 35" tires, I can keep everything I already have, and just add the tires, brakes, steering, and change the gear ratio. I should be halfway to a proper 35" tire setup, but have everything I need for 33" tires. Would you all agree?

Also, what do you mean by the 2" spacers for bumper and winch?

Thanks everyone for this long battle, I know a lot mroe than I did when I started.

Thunder Mass is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



logo carid shop wrangler parts carid fender flares custom wheels store avs deflectors at carid
» Rates
Get low rates on auto insurance in Canada!

» Network Links
»Jeep Parts
» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:56 AM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC