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Old 10-20-2011, 07:02 PM   #31
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Quote:
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This is why most people recommend taking the jeep/axle in for gear work, regearing, locker installation, etc. If I were the OP I would just look into finding a complete D35 and sliding it back under the jeep instead of tearing into the diff. This will lower the chance of screwing something up with reinstalling. Getting a carrier and ring gear out of another axle and putting it in their axle probably wouldnt be the best since the ring gear may not mesh right with the old pinion either.
True, but if I was gonna do that it'd be my luck I'd find a rear with a different gear ration than the front

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Old 10-20-2011, 07:04 PM   #32
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True, but if I was gonna do that it'd be my luck I'd find a rear with a different gear ration than the front

thats why you check before you buy it

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Old 10-20-2011, 07:24 PM   #33
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it was raining so i didnt launch it...just a little wheel spin then a louuuud bang noise.
pix included. do you think that one chip off of the ring gear is ok?
It couldn't have broke because of not being serviced That looks like it has never had the oil changed.

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Old 10-20-2011, 07:30 PM   #34
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:31 PM   #35
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thats why you check before you buy it
The number wouldn't matter, I'd pick the one and only one in the whole junk yard that had already had the guts changed LOL
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:33 PM   #36
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The number wouldn't matter, I'd pick the one and only one in the whole junk yard that had already had the guts changed LOL
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:41 PM   #37
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It couldn't have broke because of not being serviced That looks like it has never had the oil changed.

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Old 10-20-2011, 08:21 PM   #38
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My dad owned a service station for 50 years and every time I change my front and rear diff fluid he tells me I'm waiting my time unless I putt them in the drink.... He had work trucks with well over 100k and never changed any fluid other than trans and engine...He never had his or a customers rear end go so I don't think it was the old oil.
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Old 10-20-2011, 09:50 PM   #39
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i changed the diff fluid 4k miles ago. been through a lot of water though.
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Old 10-20-2011, 10:03 PM   #40
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I don't know... That ring gear has a pretty good chunk missing....how many miles do you have on it? I have 128k on mine and have plowed, 4wheeled, and towed a 3500+ pound trailer for 3 years and still haven't blown mine up yet... I guess I'm on borrowed time...maybe I should start looking for a d44
You're talking about a stock d35?
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Old 10-20-2011, 10:35 PM   #41
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The pictures you showed looks like that axle has been submerged in water. Looks more like mud than gear oil in there. That could have helped break. Swapping out the whole axle would be easier and cheaper in the long run. I still think we need to hear the whole story of how you lost traction.
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Old 10-21-2011, 07:20 AM   #42
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I wasn't doing anything too crazy. I pulled out of my parking spot (it was raining hard), and I gave it just enough gas to spin tires. It caught traction within a second and I heard that loud bang. That's what happened. And yeah, I had been through a muddy stream a week before.
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Old 10-21-2011, 05:03 PM   #43
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Keep laughing been there actually done that, I had an old Chevy Pickup 4X4 once with 411 gears in it, well, after 200,000 the rear dif was flat out worn out, so instead of shimming and measuring like you have to do on Chevy's, I got a whole 411 rear end only to find out the hard way the guts had been changed to a 76 Pontiac rear gear setup
And I found that out at 55 mph
Loudest boom I have ever heard out from under any vehicle.
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Old 10-21-2011, 05:09 PM   #44
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Keep laughing been there actually done that, I had an old Chevy Pickup 4X4 once with 411 gears in it, well, after 200,000 the rear dif was flat out worn out, so instead of shimming and measuring like you have to do on Chevy's, I got a whole 411 rear end only to find out the hard way the guts had been changed to a 76 Pontiac rear gear setup
And I found that out at 55 mph
Loudest boom I have ever heard out from under any vehicle.
Why were you going 55 in 4WD? The only time it matters that your gears up front, and gears in the rear match is when you are in 4WD...
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Old 10-21-2011, 06:12 PM   #45
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Why were you going 55 in 4WD? The only time it matters that your gears up front, and gears in the rear match is when you are in 4WD...
He had a Chevy 4x4 pickup. He didn't have it in 4wd.

Edit: Never mind, I just re-read a few posts ago. lol
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Old 10-21-2011, 09:08 PM   #46
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Why were you going 55 in 4WD? The only time it matters that your gears up front, and gears in the rear match is when you are in 4WD...
Simple, I was on the way to school and it had rained about 3" the night before so the road was about an inch deep so I had it in 4H. As soon as I hit a dry patch of dirt the front drive shaft let go. And at 16 years old 55 was about the fastest I went on those old dirt roads.
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Old 10-21-2011, 09:10 PM   #47
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Lol alot of life lessons in this thread...

Maybe I should stop spinning tire in my tj now...

nah
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Old 10-21-2011, 11:48 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfen

Simple, I was on the way to school and it had rained about 3" the night before so the road was about an inch deep so I had it in 4H. As soon as I hit a dry patch of dirt the front drive shaft let go. And at 16 years old 55 was about the fastest I went on those old dirt roads.
Only 55 haha.
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Old 10-22-2011, 03:58 AM   #49
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defazio, yes, i am talking about a stock d35.... i have 128k on it... the pinion gear wines but thats because of the 2"lift effecting the angle... i have plowed every winter since 2004/5, have 4 wheeled lightly since 02, and towed a 3500lb trailer for 3 years, locally and on I95...i'm sure it will go eventually but it's served me well so far....unless they made d44's with the rubber fill plug and i've been wrong on what rear i have all these years....
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Old 10-22-2011, 07:53 AM   #50
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Only 55 haha.

Yea only 55, road was 10feet wide with oak trees on each side, my dad always told me, " Boy, don;t you go no faster that 55 after the road grader makes it soft"
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Old 10-22-2011, 09:19 AM   #51
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does anyone near me have a d35 with 3.07s? im zip code 20882 and im trying to find something within a few hours away
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Old 10-22-2011, 10:39 AM   #52
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Id regear and super35 it

theres no way I'd leave a chipped gear in my drivetrain to fail later,plus without removal you really cant see if there are any other cracks or fractures.

what size tires you running maybe its time for a regear anyway.

A wrangler should never break traction unless under a heavy foot,just saying
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Old 10-22-2011, 01:27 PM   #53
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With 3.07s and 33s your wrangler wont move very fast without a heavy foot, just saying
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Old 10-22-2011, 03:19 PM   #54
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With 3.07s and 33s your wrangler wont move very fast without a heavy foot, just saying
235/75/15's with 3.73's are bad enough in town for takeoff speed.
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Old 10-22-2011, 05:01 PM   #55
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Id regear and super35 it

theres no way I'd leave a chipped gear in my drivetrain to fail later,plus without removal you really cant see if there are any other cracks or fractures.

what size tires you running maybe its time for a regear anyway.

A wrangler should never break traction unless under a heavy foot,just saying
i dont have the money to regear right now. and im not putting any money into upgrading the d35.
and i already stated it was raining hard. so even accelerating from a full stop would easily break traction.
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Old 10-22-2011, 05:08 PM   #56
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anyone know a ballpark figure of how much a welding shop would charge to have this welded up? Artec TJ 8.8 Swap Kit with Truss
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Old 10-22-2011, 05:29 PM   #57
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What size tires will you be running? I wouldn't bother trussing an 8.8 until you got to at least 37" tires and was doing trails that required 37" tires.
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Old 10-22-2011, 05:36 PM   #58
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What size tires will you be running? I wouldn't bother trussing an 8.8 until you got to at least 37" tires and was doing trails that required 37" tires.
the reason behind the truss is the ease of install and also the whole system fits together so the shop/i won't have anything to measure incorrectly. but i am not set on trussing it.
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Old 10-22-2011, 05:42 PM   #59
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$280 for a complete bracket kit that includes the truss isn't bad at all, I just noticed that low price. That it will help the welder get the brackets positioned is a plus, that actually looks like a good kit the more you think about it. It could actually reduce the cost to weld the brackets to the axle since it helps to position most of them, another plus.
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Old 10-22-2011, 05:52 PM   #60
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$280 for a complete bracket kit that includes the truss isn't bad at all, I just noticed that low price. That it will help the welder get the brackets positioned is a plus, that actually looks like a good kit the more you think about it. It could actually reduce the cost to weld the brackets to the axle since it helps to position most of them, another plus.
Your input means a lot, Jerry. Thanks. Does anyone have experience with the install of this kit? I can tack weld the truss on then bring it to a shop. I am more worried about the brake lines etc.

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