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Old 02-19-2010, 07:04 PM   #1
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just bought a 1997 TJ today manual?

anyone have a link or can send me an email of this owners manual for this 97 wrangler TJ sport 4.0 liter. all i really need is the pages for the proper procedure to flat tow (dinghy tow) this Jeep.

I know the proper procedure but i need to see it in the manual myself before i actually do it. i guess im just funny like that.

did i say I know the proper procedure but just want to see it in the manual myself before i actually do it?

all I could find was a 2004 owners manual in all my searching.....

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Old 02-19-2010, 10:35 PM   #2
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PM Jerry Bransford..

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Old 02-19-2010, 10:53 PM   #3
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It's pretty simple and the procedure is the same for all Wranglers. The transfer case must be in Neutral, the transmission must be IN gear (yes, NOT neutral), and the ignition lock must be unlocked so the wheels can turn left/right to follow you. Just unlock the ignition with the key, don't turn it to 'On' which will drain the battery.

So if you have an automatic transmission, it must be in Park. If it's a manual transmission, it must be in gear... not Neutral. The reason for this is that the transmission does not have an oil pump that works when being flat towed so the transmission must be prevented from turning when not being lubricated. The transfer case has an oil pump that works via the rear driveshaft so it can be in Neutral.

No rumor, right out of the Owner's Manual.
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Old 02-20-2010, 12:49 AM   #4
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fair enough

thanks for the responses I read some of ur replies while searching they were very helpful. and ya that is right out of the book haha.

thanks again

its my dads jeep he's out of huntington beach ca he's visiting up hear in the NW and just picked this beauty up. $4800? 133,700 miles 4.0 L Auto 1997 TJ sport pretty clean and stock is that a fair deal? I drive a 98 tacoma with some different suspension and run some 33" km2 bfg. (just thought id thow that in there)

that Jeep is cool tho i drove it today. anyways can't wait till i get something with a straight axle up front someday, but i still have fun.

thanks again
Jeff
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Old 02-20-2010, 08:58 AM   #5
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That's a good deal for that jeep.
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Old 02-20-2010, 11:38 AM   #6
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There are other issues when towing a jeep. They've already told you how to set it up for towing but don't forget the tow bar, braking system and your tail light connection.
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Old 02-20-2010, 12:41 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
It's pretty simple and the procedure is the same for all Wranglers. The transfer case must be in Neutral,
Jerry

I have heard that the YJ does not have a true neutral like the TJ, Is this really the case?

Donn
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Old 02-20-2010, 12:55 PM   #8
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I have heard the same thing Donn but my gut feel is that like the TJ's 231, the YJ's 231 probably has a true neutral. The YJ's rear tailshaft cone is different but I can't see it being that much different where the guts & gears of the TC are concerned. Afterall, they are both 231 transfer cases.

But I don't know 100% for sure, I am just talking out of where the sun doesn't shine.
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Old 02-23-2010, 06:23 PM   #9
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Jerry.


Here is a little blurb I found while looking around, with credits going to Tri-County Gear.

serious drawback of most NP231 cases--towing the vehicle without a true Neutral position. We talked to Jason Bunch at Tri-County Gear, who said that the standard NP231 such as that found in a Jeep YJ Wrangler connects the front and rear drive shaft together when it's shifted into Neutral, and drive-train windup is relieved by the front-axle disconnect being disengaged. Unfortunately, when the engine is started and the case is put in Neutral, the vacuum-operated disconnect engages and stays engaged even after the engine is turned off. After a few hundred miles of towing, the resulting drive-train windup can literally cause the transfer case to explode, just as though it were driven in four-wheel drive on the pavement.

The simple solution is not to start the engine before shifting the transfer case into Neutral for towing or to unhook the vacuum hoses to the front axle. But Bunch has some special parts he installs to provide a true Neutral inside the T-case for hassle-free towing, as well as some other beef-up parts for strength and longevity. Although some people believe that converting to an older-style cast-iron case is the only solution to the problem, the NP231 has proven to be a perfectly adequate unit. Follow along as Bunch shows how he modifies and beefs up the NP231 into a durable, tow-able transfer case that won’t leave your rig with a bang.

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