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Old 03-05-2012, 01:20 PM   #1
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just front locker?

hi iv got a dana 35 rear axle so what iv learned from the forum is to not put lockers on the rear 35 cause it will snap how much help would it be while wheeling (mostly mud and dirt hills here in ga) if i put a locker on my front axle also what brand would u suggest and how hard is it to install? thank you

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Old 03-05-2012, 01:28 PM   #2
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It will help alot, im not sure how much money your looking to spend, but what i am thinking about doing is putting an automatic locker in the front because it only engages while your in 4wd. you can get a lockrite or aussie locker for around 260-300. from what ive learned this isnt a bad idea. there are a couple others on here that are more experienced in this area to let you know. but thats what i decided im goin with.

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Old 03-05-2012, 01:48 PM   #3
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You can successfully lock an upgraded d35, i.e. Superior Super35 kit (defaults with an automatic Detroit Softlocker). For the front d30, many will opt for a lunchbox (Aussie, Lock-Right, Powertrax No-Slip,or Spartan) locker due to cost savings and "bang for buck" performance.

Note: a locked Super D35 will tolerate tires up to 35" tall.
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Old 03-05-2012, 01:52 PM   #4
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Installing a front locker would be a huge help for offroading, especiallywhen you can't install a rear locker first due to the rear axle being a Dana 35. My three lunchbox locker suggestions for the front axle are an Aussie or Lockrite (in that order) or for click-free silent operation, a Powertrax No-Slip. All three work the same, the only real difference is the front two click during turns when you're in 2wd and the No-Slip is silent.

Just avoid shifting into 4x4 when those Georgia ice storms hit, a front automatic locker gets pretty squirrely on icy or snow-covered roads when you're in 4x4.
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Old 03-05-2012, 01:55 PM   #5
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hi iv got a dana 35 rear axle so what iv learned from the forum is to not put lockers on the rear 35 cause it will snap how much help would it be while wheeling (mostly mud and dirt hills here in ga) if i put a locker on my front axle also what brand would u suggest and how hard is it to install? thank you
I ran a Lock Rite in the front only for a few months and it was most impressing at what it was capable of doing. Lock Rite, Aussie are a couple of automatic lockers that work very nice and are reasonable in the pricing. You are wise to not lock the rear with the dana 35. You will want to put in different axles or replace the whole thing with a dana 44 or other.
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:42 PM   #6
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as long as i know my front axle is a dana 30 theres nothing else i need to know b4 i buy the locker right?
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:47 PM   #7
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Yep, you've got a standard 27 spline D30. A front locker alone will make a massive difference and can get you into trouble. Make sure you're ready for that trouble by protecting the other vulnerable areas.
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:03 PM   #8
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so you mean i should get some skid plates?
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:17 PM   #9
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Front Lock-Right Performance Lockers LR2210

how does this look and will i need to buy anything else along with this im sry for all the questions i just wanna be sure b4 i make the purchase
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:21 PM   #10
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so you mean i should get some skid plates?
What do you think? What's weak and vulnerable?
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:23 PM   #11
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You will need some gear lube, RTV, Brake Cleaner and a can of PB Blaster.
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:39 PM   #12
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well i just called morris 4x4 to make the buy and asked the guy that answered the phone for some info on front lockers he asked if i had the rear locked already and i said no and he told me that there was no point in locking the front axle untill the rear was locked he claimed to have been building jeeps for 15 years now and seem to be very sure that i would not get a big performenc boost with just a locked front axle and sais i should just save my money and upgrade my dana 35 whitch he also said could handle just as much as a dana 44 if i upgraded it right but all the upgrades woulod be alot more money then i wanna spend so anyways now so are u all sure i should get a front locker?
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:43 PM   #13
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That guy's on crack. In 'almost' all scenarios if I had one choice, I'll take my front locker over my rear locker any day of the week.

Think of this in a logical manner--you're on a rock wall with a nice step preventing the rear tire from jumping up and over. If you can't even get that front axle over that step, you've got a 0% chance of making it up and over. If you can get the front up and over and use a bit of momentum and throttle to bump the ass up and over, you've got a 50% chance of making it up and over. With correct timing and a little motivation from your buddies, that'll usually turn into a victory. Watched that exact scenario last weekend, in fact.
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:52 PM   #14
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That's okay if he doesn't want to sell you one just buy it elsewhere.
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:55 PM   #15
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Opinions are as varied as there are people in this forum on whether it's more useful to lock the front or rear first, assuming the rear is strong enough to be locked. Personally, I believe there is more benefit by locking the rear axle first. Most of the time, with my selectable lockers, I'll only lock the rear. With the rear locked, I rarely need to lock up the front. Not to mention that if the climb is steep enough, so little weight is on the front tires that they can't really do all that much, with the axle locked or unlocked. In my personal opinion that is.

That said, if the rear axle wasn't strong enough to be locked, I'd definitely lock up the front first and know it's still going to make a big improvement for offroading.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:27 PM   #16
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ok i bought it ill let everyone know when I put it in and how much improvment it made i already have a hill in mind that i know i cant do with out it thank you all very much for help
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:34 PM   #17
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On install, it should be relatively easy if your gear ratio is lower than 3.73. If its higher you will have to pull the whole carrier and remove the ring to install. You will need a bench vice if that's the case, to retorque the ring gear bolts.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:36 PM   #18
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And if you need to remove the ring gear, don't fail to remember to use Locktite on the ring gear bolts when you reinstall them!!!!!! When the ring gear bolts back out from lack of Locktite, and they do, havoc (and a destroyed ring & pinion) is the result.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:42 PM   #19
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Also mark the ring gear and carrier so that it goes back on the carrier in the same place.

Make a mental note as to the shims as well.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:44 PM   #20
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Also mark the ring gear and carrier so that it goes back on the carrier in the same place.

Make a mental note as to the shims as well.
And the up/down-left/right orientation of the bearing caps which have to go back on exactly as they came off.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:48 PM   #21
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And the up/down-left/right orientation of the bearing caps which have to go back on exactly as they came off.
Suddenly this doesn't sound so easy.


To the OP. There is a great video on YouTube for installing a Aussie locker in a D30.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:52 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick50471

Suddenly this doesn't sound so easy.

To the OP. There is a great video on YouTube for installing a Aussie locker in a D30.
It's not bad, I pulled it off. Just don't strip a ring gear bolt by over torquing with a 25 year old torque wrench. A lot of lessons learned in my lockrite install.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:54 PM   #23
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The bearing caps and housing are marked....you'll only screw that up if you're blind. Marking the ring gear/carrier orientation is as easy as it sounds.
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Old 03-06-2012, 01:00 PM   #24
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I look forward to the report of how it performs on the hill you have in mind. It will make a huge difference in performance. I feel that the guy who told you it was not worth it just wanted to make a sale on doing all the work and getting you a whole new rear end in the process. That is not a bad idea, but all in due time and you will always be able to run the front locker.
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Old 03-06-2012, 02:35 PM   #25
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Yeah I feel the same way to thanks again everyone for the help, now its the waiting game for me.
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Old 03-06-2012, 03:24 PM   #26
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Yeah I feel the same way to thanks again everyone for the help, now its the waiting game for me.
Don't wait...Start spraying the bolts with PB Blaster.
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Old 03-06-2012, 03:31 PM   #27
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well i just called morris 4x4 to make the buy and asked the guy that answered the phone for some info on front lockers he asked if i had the rear locked already and i said no and he told me that there was no point in locking the front axle untill the rear was locked he claimed to have been building jeeps for 15 years now and seem to be very sure that i would not get a big performenc boost with just a locked front axle and sais i should just save my money and upgrade my dana 35 whitch he also said could handle just as much as a dana 44 if i upgraded it right but all the upgrades woulod be alot more money then i wanna spend so anyways now so are u all sure i should get a front locker?

...it is easier to pull a load than to push a load. And the steered front wheels provide more positioning possibilities when searching for a spot with traction. A front locker is better off road, you just need to be careful as it can reduce steering precision when locked.

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