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Old 07-02-2011, 11:20 PM   #1
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Krylon Fusion - Painting Dash (Tacky Grab Handle?)

So here's the deal...hoping one of you may have more painting experience than I do and can give me a solution here.

I stripped my entire Jeep apart recently and painted all the tan dash panels, door panels, center console, etc all black (Krylon Fusion Satin Black). They turned out AMAZING looking...but I screwed them up when I decided to do some touch-ups the next day because I'm just that good...

I waited the week it said to let it fully cure before messing with them and when I removed the components, the passenger side grab handle was still kind of tacky. I don't know what it's made out of but the paint doesn't seem to be bonding to it like it does the hard plastic dash panels. Last night I repainted everything...again making it look amazing...except this time I'm not going to screw it up again. However, that grab handle is back to being extremely tacky...and I know all it's going to take is one or two passengers using it to enter/exit my Jeep (especially now that it's lifted on 33's) before that paint gets rubbed off. Does anybody know of any way I can make the paint dry/fully cure faster? It wouldn't be a big deal if it weren't the number one component my passengers are going to be grabbing ahold of when entering the vehicle...but it is...so yanno...

I guess if nothing else...I'll pull the damn thing off and use a spray on bedliner on it. That should harden like a rock...lol

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Old 07-02-2011, 11:45 PM   #2
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It won't ever dry since it's rubber based. About the only thing you can do is take it off and strip it. But it will always look like crap. If it looks even still you could also spray a quick dry clear coat over the top and it should take out the stickiness.

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Old 07-02-2011, 11:54 PM   #3
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Argh...figures. I'm finding dark gray ones on Ebay for bout $20-25 plus shipping. Looks like that's probably my next option then. I'll try and shoot some clear on it and see what that does. Figures there's always got to be one tan thing on the dash that can't accept the paint everything else needs. Thanks for the info.
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Old 07-03-2011, 12:20 AM   #4
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I think I just found the perfect solution for this...costs about $6 at Home Depot and I just happen to have a fresh can of it sitting at work...which I was going to use on my D-Rings until I decided I'm going to paint them red instead.

Plastidip -- according to their website it will work on rubber.



I'll update this later on how it holds up in case anyone else is trying to figure out how to paint their grab bar.
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Old 07-03-2011, 12:21 AM   #5
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Rugged ridge grab handle covers
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Old 07-03-2011, 12:32 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LilYeller View Post
Rugged ridge grab handle covers
lol, I'll keep that in mind as a last resort...that'd be more of a band-aid fix though.
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Old 07-03-2011, 12:34 AM   #7
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just giving some options >< tho Im thinking about painting my interior black also. Its good to learn from other ppl. any other snags or hangups you found while doing yours?
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Old 07-03-2011, 01:04 AM   #8
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Yeah... buy a monkey and teach him how to turn a wrench. lol

In order to get the airbag cover off, you need to have monkey hands...and good luck putting it back on. I ended up losing the 2 bolts that hold it on when I tried to put it back on. Pretty sure they were kind of important too...to keep from blowing the cover off if the airbag ever deploys I'm guessing. I found them when I pulled the dash back apart so gonna try again to reattach it when I put it back together soon. It's held by like 12 screws as well. When you get to that part...after you unscrew the airbag cover, it's gonna flip up on both ends like it's loose enough to remove. It is NOT held on by clips so don't tug on it trying to pop the clips...you'll just damage it. You have to remove the 2 bolts mentioned above. When you get closer to doing the job, shoot me a PM and I'll give you some pointers. In order to get the main dash surround off, you have to remove the airbag cover. Aside from that being a real pain in the butt, it's a pretty simple job removing the dash...LOTS of screws, but that's really about the most difficult part.

You have to remove the gauge cluster, radio, etc...but it all is very easily removed. Well, stock radio is a pain in the butt because it's bolted to a bar in the back, but if you put an aftermarket headunit in and removed that bar then that step is already done. Also...if you use Krylon Fusion, after you paint it, even though it can be handled in an hour, give it a few days to dry (preferably a full week) so it will be more chip resistant. Otherwise every time you bump it with a ratchet or screwdriver, you're going to chip it. And if you do need to touch it up...DON'T be an idiot like me and just spray the spots with your can of paint. It won't match when it dries! lol. Spray some in the cap and use a qtip to touch it up. Or just don't nick it...lol
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Old 07-03-2011, 01:20 AM   #9
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i used a clear coat over it and it is not tacky anymore.
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Old 07-03-2011, 08:01 AM   #10
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last resort is black duct tape...lol
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Old 07-03-2011, 09:04 AM   #11
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beige door panels came with gray handles, i guess its so you can immediately see them and also annoy you because they cant be painted
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Old 07-03-2011, 10:51 AM   #12
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I painted my visors with black Fusion about a month ago and they're still grossly tacky when it's hot and mildly tacky when it's cool. I'm not a big fan of that stuff on the interior stuff. It worked great on my fender flares though. I'll probably try some clear coat and if that doesn't work, then there's always eBay for some replacements.
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Old 07-03-2011, 01:35 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strebs View Post
I painted my visors with black Fusion about a month ago and they're still grossly tacky when it's hot and mildly tacky when it's cool. I'm not a big fan of that stuff on the interior stuff. It worked great on my fender flares though. I'll probably try some clear coat and if that doesn't work, then there's always eBay for some replacements.
Dammit, I forgot about my visors! lol

Yeah, I'll probably just replace those with black/dark gray ones. I'm out of paint and don't feel like buying more.

The visors are probably not a real paintable material either...my dash honestly looks and feels like it was painted black from the factory until you look for any imperfections like a little paint splatter here and there. Krylon Fusion definitely works great on materials it was designed to work for.
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Old 07-04-2011, 12:42 AM   #14
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Sure would like to some pics of the painted dash, I'm thinking of doing the same. In black and maybe accenting the center area with the same color as my TJ
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Old 07-04-2011, 01:11 AM   #15
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I used Krylon Fusion paint on my 4 fender flares, and also on my rocker guards, all of them still feel tacky to the touch... almost like the paint is still wet... it seams to scratch pretty easily, and it picks up finger prints easily too... I'm thinking of sanding it down and using something else as it doesn't seem to be very durable, even after 24 hours to cure...
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Old 07-04-2011, 02:32 AM   #16
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I used the Krylon Fusion paint on bumpers,fenders, door pulls, plate holder and didn't get that sticky feel. I washed, scuffed and painted in the heat of the day outside. dried tack free in 2 hours or so.
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Old 07-04-2011, 04:12 AM   #17
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Got my dash back together...few observations...

The Krylon Fusion scratches pretty easily when rubbed against hard objects...ie, putting center console back in, got some nice rub marks where the seat belts rubbed against the sides. Everything else seems to be holding up decently. I was much more careful installing it all this time. I managed to get one of my airbag cover bolts back on this time...lost the other one...again. I seemed to end up with extra screws this time around as well...ah well, now my dash is held on with 997 screws instead of 1000....

I put my shift boot retainer bezel back in even though it's cracked however due to my body lift, the boot barely allows the shifter to go into 2nd, 4th and Reverse. It's about 3/4" from actually contacting the edge of anything, but the boot binds it up. I removed the bezel and shoved the boot down into the opening. Not the prettiest but better than removing the boot entirely (also removed the foam padding on the shifter handle).

Shooting the grab bar with clear coat did not solve my problems entirely... it was no longer tacky, but after it dried, I grabbed the bar and found the clear coat was not adhering to the Krylon Fusion and it ended up basically wrinkling up on top of it like it was sliding across the paint. I used Xylol and removed all the paint and started over...I painted that panel with the PlastiDip mentioned above...not only did it dry perfectly with a nice rubbery feeling, but the black PlastiDip matches the satin black Krylon Fusion almost perfectly! I think I put 3-4 coats on it.

I need to touch up a few spots...missed the whole top edge of my door (just bout 1/16" line but it's noticeable to me) and I'm thinking about maybe putting clear coat over the lid of my center console as well as my doors...basically anywhere that will get a lot of contact. Pics will come soon... ran out of energy tonight. My buddy was helping me out and he snapped quite a few pics at random times playing with his new DSLR camera.
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Old 07-04-2011, 07:12 AM   #18
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Thanks for the info, I was wondering how it would hold up. I might look into an auto body supply shop and get the actual dye for my dash and do it right. The dye is expensive but if the krylon is gonna cause issues with flaking and scratching I think it might be worth the few extra bucks. Usually runs $30 for a pint which will do about 50 cars ><. But hey at least I will have back up lol. Havent found any place that will sell it to me in smaller a quanty.
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Old 07-22-2011, 06:03 PM   #19
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pictures
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Old 07-22-2011, 07:31 PM   #20
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Removing dash

Question for those that painted the entire dash board. I am assuming that the dash was removed prior to painting. I have followed instructions in the Haynes manual and still cannot get the dash off. All screws are out. The problem area is around the airbag. Do I have to remove the rivets? Can't I just take the plastic cover off without taking off the metal frame behind it?

FYI - my project is a complete interior overhaul. I plan to do the floors with Raptor truck bed liner. New Corbeau Moab seats for the front. Rampage slit bench for the back. New seat belts for the front. Paint dash and center console (colors undecided but probably a mix of black and a gunmetal silver). My Jeep is 97, white with spice interior and top. Bought it new November 1996. This is my first post to this site. Regrettably, my camera is on the other side of the world with my wife so I will not be able to take pictures to post progress but I will take some of the finished product and post those.

Any assistance appreciated.
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Old 07-22-2011, 09:08 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lambhair McDaniel View Post
Question for those that painted the entire dash board. I am assuming that the dash was removed prior to painting. I have followed instructions in the Haynes manual and still cannot get the dash off. All screws are out. The problem area is around the airbag. Do I have to remove the rivets? Can't I just take the plastic cover off without taking off the metal frame behind it?

FYI - my project is a complete interior overhaul. I plan to do the floors with Raptor truck bed liner. New Corbeau Moab seats for the front. Rampage slit bench for the back. New seat belts for the front. Paint dash and center console (colors undecided but probably a mix of black and a gunmetal silver). My Jeep is 97, white with spice interior and top. Bought it new November 1996. This is my first post to this site. Regrettably, my camera is on the other side of the world with my wife so I will not be able to take pictures to post progress but I will take some of the finished product and post those.

Any assistance appreciated.
There are two bolts holding the airbag cover on that can only be accessed by reaching up from behind the glove box... I'll post a link to a thread on it momentarily. Be foerwarned, I got them off using a small 10mm wrench...but you damn near gotta be a monkey to do it. You'll be cussing up a storm by the time you're done...
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Old 07-22-2011, 09:10 PM   #22
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http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/pass...ics-59971.html

Here ya go! Good luck!

Btw...the PlastiDip on my grab handle is holding up very nicely. I would recommend that over painting and clearing over the handle. Leaves the original rubbery texture as well.
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Old 07-23-2011, 01:04 PM   #23
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Exactly what I needed

Thanks s3nt3nc3d, that is exactly what I needed. I used the special ratchet tool when I removed my fenders, it was a life saver for that project. I believe that was 3/8 so I had to get the 10mm. Worked like a charm, although still difficult to get to. Totally understand the bloody fingers in the pics.
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Old 08-23-2011, 05:02 PM   #24
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Tacky grab handle solution

I just finished painting anything I could find to paint on my 97 Wrangler. I used both Krylon Fusion and SEM Color Coat. Initially I was using Krylon for everything black. In the end, the Color Coat went on most interior parts and I used Krylon for exterior because I found that the Color Coat is just a better product and, where I purchased it, not much more expensive than Krylon ($10 vs. $7 per can ). Anyway, like I said, initially everything black was painted with Krylon. That included the half door handles which are a very similar material as the grab handle. They were super tacky. However, the grab handle, which I painted with the Color Coat was not. It came out perfect. So, I srubbed and sanded the Krylon off of the door handles and repainted them with Color Coat. Again, perfect. No tackiness. I will say, Krylon is a good product for some things. It looks great on all of my exterior parts. The Color Coat requires more prep work but is a superior product.
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Old 08-23-2011, 05:06 PM   #25
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Got pics?
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Old 08-23-2011, 05:10 PM   #26
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got pics?
x2!
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Old 11-12-2012, 01:33 PM   #27
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Another Grab Handle alternative

Here's something I saw in another thread. Can't beat it for 10.99. I saw some grey ones out there too.

Yak Gear Kayak Handles - SportsAuthority.com
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Old 11-12-2012, 05:54 PM   #28
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I have used that SEM color coat on my Neoprene Jack cover, works great and hasnt faded in the least. Youre spot on with that stuff, its very good.
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Old 11-13-2012, 10:17 AM   #29
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SEM Color Coat is GREAT! Fusion is meant for plastic parts...a flexible coating is what should be used for alot of the interior parts...I'm sorry, but I'm no fan of ANY Krylon products out there...I've never used Fusion, but IMO if it's going on an Auto of any kind, it should be auto grade paint, not something you can buy at Home Depot...

Paint shouldn't take that long to cure and if it's still tacky a month after you shot it, something is wrong. Most auto paints will flash in a matter of minutes, especially out of spray cans since there is so much reducer and propellants in there (about 2/3 of the can, and 1/3 is actually paint).

If you can't find SEM, you can buy a flexible coating from Duplicolor...

Also no one mentioned environment - if it is 60 or below your paint may not even cure...and if you have a ton of coats on there it will take forever too...
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Old 11-13-2012, 05:40 PM   #30
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I wish I could have found the SEM in yellow to do my interior, but sadly they only have the "common" colors. Thats why I had to go with the Krylon Fusion, its actually a decent product, when enough coats are applied.

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