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Old 09-21-2010, 12:22 PM   #1
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LCG...where to start?

OK, so I've been doing LOTS of reading on this...and love the way the LCG Jeeps look...and since I do not foresee myself doing much mudding (but rather trail riding and daily driving), I think this is probably the way to go (by the way, its an 06 Unlimited, 4.0, 6-speed, D44 in the rear, D30 up front...stock at the moment). So with that in mind...

Where the heck do I start, while on a budget? And by budget I don't necessarily mean cheapest complete project (I tend to prefer quality stuff...even if I have to pay a bit extra), but rather something I can take on in chunks as funds become available. Also not sure whether to go 33's or 35's. I know 35's will require a bit of work to the axles (at the bare minimum regearing...ideally beefing up the front), a stronger tire carrier for the spare, and obviously more expensive tires. Probably, from what I'm seeing, require more work to make them fit...tube fenders, cutting, a small lift, etc...they're probably overkill too, at least in the short term (next couple years). 33's, from what I've gathered, shouldn't be too bad with the stock gearing (3.73) and 4.0 (eventually I'd regear it...though, again, trying to figure out a plan of action to upgrade in small chunks)...but obviously will still require work to the fenders (flat fender flares? Or go straight for the tubes?) and possibly bump stops. I'm also assuming that regardless of which size, better shocks will be in order to deal with the heavier tire.

Thoughts?

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Old 09-21-2010, 12:37 PM   #2
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Here's my thoughts: JKS 1.25" BL with 31 or 32" tires. Leave everything else alone.

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Old 09-21-2010, 01:20 PM   #3
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The cheapest way around the flat fender/tube fender is to go with MCE flat fenders. Im going for the same idea, except 35" tires eventually. Ive got a 2.5" suspension lift, 1.25" BL and the MCE fenders. Here is a pic at that point...

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Old 09-21-2010, 11:56 PM   #4
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Wow...was expecting a little bit more

So, Cons Table, I like that...those look like the type of thing that could be done short term while I get everything else in order until I can pony up for a nice set of tube fenders or highline (still not sure about those though).

JeepnJim, while that would certainly give clearance on the cheap, its not really what I'm looking for (especially the 31's...I can do that without any lift or cutting from everything I've read). I'd like to find a way of running no lift with 33's or a small lift with 35's (primarily to maintain some up-travel). And don't get me wrong, I'm not looking to take the easy way out just to stuff big tires under it...I want to make sure I end up with plenty of down-travel with whatever I do (which I'm assuming will eventually require adjustable control arms). For the up-travel, I'm planning on adjusting the bump stops and using high-clearance fenders of some kind. If down the road I go with 35's, I'd add a little bit of a lift...2" or so (I've seen 35's on a no lift Jeep...while it looks good, I'd like a bit more room for up-travel).

But as I said, being on a budget, I'd like to take this on in small chunks...the more I look, the more I'm thinking 33's to start. In order to put 35's on, I'd either have to half-*** it, or spend big money with little real difference in performance short term. Not sure either option really appeals to me that much.

Anyway...just running through options...I tend to want stuff thoroughly researched before throwing money and time at it. Thanks for the replies!
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Old 09-22-2010, 09:34 AM   #5
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You could run them long term or short term. It is kind of up to you on the route you wanna go. I like the fact with these, if one of the two parts breaks for whatever reason (I think itd be pretty hard to do), you can replace it. Also I liked how they will not affect the body. Since tube fenders are significantly stronger than the body they attach to, if you were to take a hard hit in the rocks or something, the fenders would probably hold up, but would your body where they are attached?
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Old 09-22-2010, 11:29 AM   #6
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You could run them long term or short term. It is kind of up to you on the route you wanna go. I like the fact with these, if one of the two parts breaks for whatever reason (I think itd be pretty hard to do), you can replace it. Also I liked how they will not affect the body. Since tube fenders are significantly stronger than the body they attach to, if you were to take a hard hit in the rocks or something, the fenders would probably hold up, but would your body where they are attached?
THIS is the reason I like MCE's design - if you do hit something the fender takes the grunt of it, unlike tube fenders...

I'd do basically what Cons has done

My plan if I keep this jeep (if I locate a rubi, LJ, automatic for a good price I'll swap) is OME 2.5'' lift, JKS 1.25 BL, MCE fenders and 33'' tires on an unknown wheel. and armored head to toe. I've considered no lift and the MCE fenders to see if 33's would work w/o issue. but my 31's are still new, so I'm not in any hurry
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Old 09-22-2010, 11:36 AM   #7
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THIS is the reason I like MCE's design - if you do hit something the fender takes the grunt of it, unlike tube fenders...

I'd do basically what Cons has done

My plan if I keep this jeep (if I locate a rubi, LJ, automatic for a good price I'll swap) is OME 2.5'' lift, JKS 1.25 BL, MCE fenders and 33'' tires on an unknown wheel. and armored head to toe. I've considered no lift and the MCE fenders to see if 33's would work w/o issue. but my 31's are still new, so I'm not in any hurry
I am on 32's right now with that exact setup, and they just look too small lol. I am def going to 35's, but will have to swap in a new axle first. There is plenty of room up front, with minimal trimming in the rear
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Old 09-22-2010, 12:41 PM   #8
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I really line the MCE fenders but I can't run them because they don't have a flare. The cops in CA are normally pretty picky about those kinds of laws.
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Old 09-22-2010, 12:44 PM   #9
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I really line the MCE fenders but I can't run them because they don't have a flare. The cops in CA are normally pretty picky about those kinds of laws.
Not my CA cops
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Old 09-22-2010, 01:11 PM   #10
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Not here either, as far as I know the requirement is a fender be in place, it doesn't say how big it has to be.
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Old 09-22-2010, 09:26 PM   #11
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I thought that it had to cover the tire or you had to have mud flaps?

I might be able to get away with it in my town, but some of the other cities close by pull people over for the smallest things (not using turn signal, etc.). A lot of times it's just for probable cause to see if they can spot anything else though...
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Old 09-22-2010, 09:46 PM   #12
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Old 09-22-2010, 09:52 PM   #13
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Old 09-23-2010, 11:29 AM   #14
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My own LCG plan...3.5" RE, Tube fenders, Modified cut or comp cut rear, 37" tires.
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Old 09-23-2010, 11:36 AM   #15
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I thought that it had to cover the tire or you had to have mud flaps?

I might be able to get away with it in my town, but some of the other cities close by pull people over for the smallest things (not using turn signal, etc.). A lot of times it's just for probable cause to see if they can spot anything else though...
I believe this is how it should be, but my cops dont hassle me about it.
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Old 09-23-2010, 11:53 AM   #16
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You could run them long term or short term. It is kind of up to you on the route you wanna go. I like the fact with these, if one of the two parts breaks for whatever reason (I think itd be pretty hard to do), you can replace it. Also I liked how they will not affect the body. Since tube fenders are significantly stronger than the body they attach to, if you were to take a hard hit in the rocks or something, the fenders would probably hold up, but would your body where they are attached?
Yeah I read that on their site...and it'd probably be a situation where I put on the MCE stuff, then as I move on to the rest, figure whether I really want something else or not. You can get a few sets of those fenders for the cost of a set of tube fenders...so even if they don't hold up long term (no idea whether they do or not), its not like it'd be a bad experiment.


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Wow...those guys have some cool rigs. Site bookmarked
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Old 09-23-2010, 11:57 AM   #17
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Yeah I read that on their site...and it'd probably be a situation where I put on the MCE stuff, then as I move on to the rest, figure whether I really want something else or not. You can get a few sets of those fenders for the cost of a set of tube fenders...so even if they don't hold up long term (no idea whether they do or not), its not like it'd be a bad experiment.




Wow...those guys have some cool rigs. Site bookmarked
They have held up well for me. Ive had them on for around 6 months, no deforming but a little fading (thats with temps reaching 115 or more at times during the summer). The cool thing is that their new ones will have a UV protectant mixed in the plastic to hold up to the sun better. I dont mind tho, nothing a little rattle can cant fix. And rokmen makes some SWEET stuff, love watching their builds.
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Old 09-23-2010, 12:08 PM   #18
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They have held up well for me. Ive had them on for around 6 months, no deforming but a little fading (thats with temps reaching 115 or more at times during the summer). The cool thing is that their new ones will have a UV protectant mixed in the plastic to hold up to the sun better. I dont mind tho, nothing a little rattle can cant fix. And rokmen makes some SWEET stuff, love watching their builds.
Well cool...looks like a cheap way to gain some tire clearance! Now, what to do about the rear? Will different flares be enough? Minor trimming? Major trimming? Lets say, for now, 33's.
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Old 09-23-2010, 12:11 PM   #19
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How much lift would you do with the the 33's?
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Old 09-23-2010, 12:16 PM   #20
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My own LCG plan...3.5" RE, Tube fenders, Modified cut or comp cut rear, 37" tires.
RE 3.5 is really 4.5. I'd love 37s but would prob need to trim coils for it to be true lcog.
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Old 09-23-2010, 01:13 PM   #21
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How much lift would you do with the the 33's?
I'd like to do none, as I think it'd be cool to keep it as low as possible. But lets say a maximum of 2" to get the tires on...after which I could work on getting the suspension dialed in to allow maximum drop. Actually, just thought about this, doing the 2" lift would allow me to put on the tires and not worry about doing the tummy tuck right away either. It may be a better route to do a small lift, get everything sorted, then go back down later...thoughts?
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Old 09-23-2010, 01:21 PM   #22
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2.5" Custom put together lift, with a 1.25" JKS body lift. Comp Cut the rear with a upper rub rail, and hi-line front fenders. Stretch the front and rear end a little, tummy tuck, and armor everything. Adjustable everything. 17" WE satin black Bead's and 37" of course 14 bolt rear D60 front

^ Dream build that will be done one day. Along with a Cummins 4bt and Allisons tranny, south bend clutch and atlast II transfer
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Old 09-23-2010, 01:21 PM   #23
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honestly based on rokmen's builds a 2'' lift won't hurt your LCG plans. there are some guys who use stock height LCG setups, but others that go 2'' lift as a basis for it. Either way gets the job done. MCE fenders, 33's, and a tummy tuck. 1-1.25" BL would make for a very good basis I would think. unless I'm overlooking something?

I'd think if you were going to just 33's the MCE fenders, and trimming rear flares would be good for that. if you plan on 35's or larger the whole thing changes, and I'll let those with experience in this comment on that.
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Old 09-23-2010, 01:27 PM   #24
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Depending on the size tires you wanted to run in the future, Id consider keeping just the 2" lift. If you look at those Rokmen rigs, they run 2.5" and probably a 1.25" BL with 40" tires. That is with a lot of work up front and a large cutout in the back. If you keep the 2" lift you wont have to do quite as much cutting in the rear end once you go to larger tires. I personally am keeping cutting of the rear wheel well to a minimum until I can retire my jeep from DD to trail only. But if you did the 2" lift with the flat fenders up front, you may be able to get away with just trimming the rear flares rather than the wheel well.
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Old 09-23-2010, 02:22 PM   #25
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LCOG is a Fad, and it seems most people dont do it right..... not all but most. Half the idiots on these forums,especially Jeepforum.com, throw on a 2in lift,tube fenders and 35's and dont do anything except preach to ppl about LCOG when they didnt even take to correct steps to do it. You need to shove up the undercarage to get any clearence,upgrade the steering and axles if you are gonna run 35's and up
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Old 09-23-2010, 02:26 PM   #26
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Who needs LCOG lol

6in lift,37's,D44 rear/ HP D30 front

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Old 09-23-2010, 02:47 PM   #27
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LCOG is a Fad, and it seems most people dont do it right..... not all but most.
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And don't get me wrong, I'm not looking to take the easy way out just to stuff big tires under it...I want to make sure I end up with plenty of down-travel with whatever I do (which I'm assuming will eventually require adjustable control arms). For the up-travel, I'm planning on adjusting the bump stops and using high-clearance fenders of some kind. If down the road I go with 35's, I'd add a little bit of a lift...2" or so (I've seen 35's on a no lift Jeep...while it looks good, I'd like a bit more room for up-travel).
Got it

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You need to shove up the undercarage to get any clearence
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Actually, just thought about this, doing the 2" lift would allow me to put on the tires and not worry about doing the tummy tuck right away either. It may be a better route to do a small lift, get everything sorted, then go back down later...thoughts?
Got it

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upgrade the steering and axles if you are gonna run 35's and up
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In order to put 35's on, I'd either have to half-*** it, or spend big money with little real difference in performance short term. Not sure either option really appeals to me that much.
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I know 35's will require a bit of work to the axles (at the bare minimum regearing...ideally beefing up the front), a stronger tire carrier for the spare, and obviously more expensive tires. Probably, from what I'm seeing, require more work to make them fit...tube fenders, cutting, a small lift, etc...they're probably overkill too, at least in the short term (next couple years).
Got it



But thanks anyway...as I said, I don't want to half-*** it.
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Old 09-23-2010, 02:55 PM   #28
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Depending on the size tires you wanted to run in the future, Id consider keeping just the 2" lift. If you look at those Rokmen rigs, they run 2.5" and probably a 1.25" BL with 40" tires. That is with a lot of work up front and a large cutout in the back. If you keep the 2" lift you wont have to do quite as much cutting in the rear end once you go to larger tires. I personally am keeping cutting of the rear wheel well to a minimum until I can retire my jeep from DD to trail only. But if you did the 2" lift with the flat fenders up front, you may be able to get away with just trimming the rear flares rather than the wheel well.
I agree, that sounds like the most reasonable plan to get started down this road. And that allows me to be ready for the 35's when I have the money to set up the running gear properly.

Do the fenders, lift, 33" tires, then move to control arms, tummy tuck, beefing up the running gear...then on to 35's and more serious hardware...probably beef up the bumpers, add some armor, and a winch before doing the 35's. Seems like a good plan to get to that stage in smaller chunks without cutting corners.
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Old 09-23-2010, 02:56 PM   #29
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Got it





Got it







Got it

I'm really starting to like you.

Here's another piece of advice, armor up first....esp if you plan on offroading while you are going through the stages. A wise man once told me "armor is one of those things that will always be good to have, you won't ever need less armor" (I guess I shouldn't have paraphrased it in quotes, but you get the point) the only offroading mods I have are riddler dif covers and a beefy tie rod. why? those are the two most likely parts to get destroyed in minor offroading. Many wait until it breaks, then fix it, I believe that setting it up to prevent breakage is a better plan.
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Old 09-23-2010, 02:59 PM   #30
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I'm really starting to like you.
I have a rather dry sense of humor that usually either sucks people in, or puts them off entirely

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