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Old 03-03-2011, 02:49 PM   #1
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Leaking rear axle

Have a 04 LJ and my Dana 44 rear is leaking oil. Question is when I go to buy parts to start this project what should I get other then seals. Also wanna change my diff oil with Royal purple but they only sell 75-90 and 75-140 or 80--145 I think which one would should I use or can I use cause I know oem is 80-90. Last question any advance on change them? I plan on taking the shafts to a shop or something so they can press everything on them.
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Old 03-03-2011, 02:58 PM   #2
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Are you sure its gear oil (axle seal) leaking and not break fluid from a wheel cylinder. Mine was leaking and when I took the break drum off and cleaned it up with break cleaner I found that it was a wheel cylinder

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Old 03-03-2011, 03:38 PM   #3
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LJ's have 4 wheel disk's I beleave. My 05 does atleast.
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Old 03-03-2011, 03:43 PM   #4
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I just hope your leak wasen't caused by a slightly bent axle shaft.
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Old 03-03-2011, 03:45 PM   #5
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Your going to need axle seal, axle bearing, and bearing retainer ring. You will also have to have someone press the new bearing and retainer ring on the axle.
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Old 03-03-2011, 03:49 PM   #6
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From the picture it looks like drum to me
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Old 03-03-2011, 03:59 PM   #7
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just4fun has a good point but yours from the look of it is rear disk. You'll want to buy the seals like you said, bearings and bearing retainers. I know ALMOST everyone is going to raz me when I say this, but Autozone has Timken bearings and retainers as a set together and the bearings are already pre-packed with grease. Why you say grease when it uses gear oil to keep the bearings happy? The grease is there for break-in until the actual oil makes its way down the shaft to the bearings. The grease will not harm your differential. Timken is the way to go when getting bearings. Also when you have your axles out you're going to want to make sure that the axle retainers are straight. I checked them by just setting them on my smooth concrete floor and checking for bends or any warping. Most times you'll be fine. When I did my seals for the first time just recently with 84,000 miles they were fine and I reused them. Word of warning, the factory manual told me to use new nuts for the axle retainers. I didn't but I leave it up to you to decide whether you need new retainer nuts or not. It might not be a bad idea. They are lock nuts. You'll want atleast grade 5 minimum I believe.

As far as removal, jack the vehicle up and onto jack stands. Remove the tire, remove the brake caliper and bracket and secure somewhere on the frame so it's not hanging by the brake line. Remove the rotor, and you'll see a hole in the mounting surface of the axle, it is there to access the 4 nuts that hold the axle retainer to the axle. Remove all four nuts and slide the axle out. It might take just a little effort to slide it out but it should with a slight yank pop right out. Slide the assembly out and you're ready to take to the shop where you're going to have the new bearings put on. You can either remove the bearing retainer, bearing and seal yourself, or just as easily have the shop do it.

Reassembly is just as easy, reverse the process. Make sure who ever you take the seals and new bearings to that they thoroughly coat the inside surface of the seal with some grease, otherwise we just defeated the whole purpose of replacing them. When I reassembled mine (and you don't have to do this) I put a thin layer of rtv on the outer mounting surface of the seal for some extra piece of mind. Stick the axle into the housing, you'll have to spin it a bit to line the splines up and then bolt the retainer back down to spec. torque and you're good to go. Any problems with this, just come on back and we'll be glad to help you out!
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Old 03-03-2011, 04:07 PM   #8
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Here is also an excellent write-up on replacing the seals and bearings. This is probably alot more detailed than what I just explained. Stu-Offroad D44 Axle Overhaul
This is also a good place to go if you need some good tips and helpful hints. I've used it quite a bit before.
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Old 03-03-2011, 04:37 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by friedfish
LJ's have 4 wheel disk's I beleave. My 05 does atleast.
Mine does have 4 wheel disk's
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Old 03-03-2011, 04:40 PM   #10
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How about the gear oil?
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Old 03-03-2011, 06:39 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubicon2 View Post
just4fun has a good point but yours from the look of it is rear disk. You'll want to buy the seals like you said, bearings and bearing retainers. I know ALMOST everyone is going to raz me when I say this, but Autozone has Timken bearings and retainers as a set together and the bearings are already pre-packed with grease. Why you say grease when it uses gear oil to keep the bearings happy? The grease is there for break-in until the actual oil makes its way down the shaft to the bearings. The grease will not harm your differential. Timken is the way to go when getting bearings. Also when you have your axles out you're going to want to make sure that the axle retainers are straight. I checked them by just setting them on my smooth concrete floor and checking for bends or any warping. Most times you'll be fine. When I did my seals for the first time just recently with 84,000 miles they were fine and I reused them. Word of warning, the factory manual told me to use new nuts for the axle retainers. I didn't but I leave it up to you to decide whether you need new retainer nuts or not. It might not be a bad idea. They are lock nuts. You'll want atleast grade 5 minimum I believe.

As far as removal, jack the vehicle up and onto jack stands. Remove the tire, remove the brake caliper and bracket and secure somewhere on the frame so it's not hanging by the brake line. Remove the rotor, and you'll see a hole in the mounting surface of the axle, it is there to access the 4 nuts that hold the axle retainer to the axle. Remove all four nuts and slide the axle out. It might take just a little effort to slide it out but it should with a slight yank pop right out. Slide the assembly out and you're ready to take to the shop where you're going to have the new bearings put on. You can either remove the bearing retainer, bearing and seal yourself, or just as easily have the shop do it.

Reassembly is just as easy, reverse the process. Make sure who ever you take the seals and new bearings to that they thoroughly coat the inside surface of the seal with some grease, otherwise we just defeated the whole purpose of replacing them. When I reassembled mine (and you don't have to do this) I put a thin layer of rtv on the outer mounting surface of the seal for some extra piece of mind. Stick the axle into the housing, you'll have to spin it a bit to line the splines up and then bolt the retainer back down to spec. torque and you're good to go. Any problems with this, just come on back and we'll be glad to help you out!
As for the nuts were could I get them at? I plan on just taking the shafts out my self buy or not buying the parts and taking it somewhere to get done. Sure its cheaper that way plus i got a new ARB and lube lockers to install to taking it to a shop i am sure they are not going to wanna add after market parts plus i can do all the hard work myself for free and pay for what i cant do myself. As for the axle nut not sure if the rear has it but incase cause im going to take my front ones off i see the oem torque is 175lbs my torque wrench only goes to 150lbs would that b fine or should i use an impact guy to put the nut back on?
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Old 03-03-2011, 07:12 PM   #12
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If you have an ARB you are going to install, I would just take everything to an off-road shop. As far as the front axle nut do not use an impact to torque it down. You run the risk of stripping the nut, shaft or both.
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Old 03-03-2011, 07:50 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubicon2
If you have an ARB you are going to install, I would just take everything to an off-road shop. As far as the front axle nut do not use an impact to torque it down. You run the risk of stripping the nut, shaft or both.
I mean like a ARB diff cover and would it be cool if I just torque it to 150lbs and not the 175lbs? Plus the whole reason I'm doing this is to save money don't got much to spend. Plan on working on both my axle doing trans flush trans case flush and other things I wanna get done before summer. I live in Philadelphia not sure if there are any off road shops around here anyways.
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Old 03-03-2011, 08:35 PM   #14
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I don't know about the 150 torque. Some auto parts stores rent special tools. You could see if they rent out torque wrenches. If it were me, I would do whatever it takes to torque it to spec. as far as anything related to driveline goes. It is up to you to decide on the correct course of action.
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Old 03-04-2011, 01:00 AM   #15
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I just did this on our LJ not two weeks ago, I ordered the bearings, retaining ring and seal from Randy's Ring and Pinion since I was getting some other stuff. Took the axles to Napa and had them press the old ones off and the new ones on for 60 bucks (took less than an hour). Slid them back in with the rtv like above. Reused the bolts with a little locktite.

Can't add more than they have already above except you will probably need new parking brake shoes as they will probably be contaminated, I replaced mine for less than 20 bucks at the same time. Bonus is the parking brake works now
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Old 03-04-2011, 10:25 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverTJMike
I just did this on our LJ not two weeks ago, I ordered the bearings, retaining ring and seal from Randy's Ring and Pinion since I was getting some other stuff. Took the axles to Napa and had them press the old ones off and the new ones on for 60 bucks (took less than an hour). Slid them back in with the rtv like above. Reused the bolts with a little locktite.

Can't add more than they have already above except you will probably need new parking brake shoes as they will probably be contaminated, I replaced mine for less than 20 bucks at the same time. Bonus is the parking brake works now
Mine is a auto with disk brakes all around so I don't use my parking brake at all haha. But as for the rtv where am I using that for?
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Old 03-04-2011, 11:42 AM   #17
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It was above, you can put a thin bit of rtv on the outside of the seal that goes into the axle housing. Gives some extra insurance if there are any defects in the housing.

I live on a hill with a manual and have pictures of a truck that rolled into the porch Love my parking brake!
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Old 03-04-2011, 02:02 PM   #18
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What does having an automatic have to do with not using your parking break. I have an auto and use my break everywhere mostly on hills or inclines to keep the pressure of the vehicle off of park .there is nothing worse then trying to move and it wont come out of park cause im to lazy to use the parking break.different strokes for different folks lol
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Old 03-04-2011, 02:30 PM   #19
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I don't live or park on hills so never use my parking brake only used it once or twice off road on a hill trying to take a picture of my wrangler. Other then that don't use it on a daily basics

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