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Old 02-05-2009, 08:47 PM   #1
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Lift

Hey guys I'm new to this forum and looking to hook my 2000 wrangler sport up with a lift. Initially I wanted a three inch lift, but have decided on a 4 inch, however, I've heard there could be other things I need to purchase such as new drive shaft etc.........I was looking at BDS or Rancho let me know if there are better ones out there at a more economical price.

I'm not much into the rock crawling thing and all I really want is a more aggressive stance w/ 33 inch 12.5 on 15 by 10 inch wheels. I just want it capable enough to reach some of my backwoods camping spots and such.

I was told by my buddy I should not overlook an upgraded steering stabalizer and/or track bar as well. I have about $2,500 I was looking to spend on a lift and tires and was wondering if it's possible to proceed with the 4 inch or should I settle for the 3 inch suspension lift and maybe at a 1 inch body lift later. I've had my Jeep now for 6 years and I've always wanted to do something with it and it's finally paid off so I figured what the hell. It's my daily driven car. Any tips or help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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Old 02-05-2009, 09:03 PM   #2
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For a 4 inch lift, you will need to get more supplies.
I went with a 3 inch F/T lift, with 32's and I love the look and am capable of going places where a 4 inch lifted Jeep can go.
Heres mine to give you an idea of how it looks:



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Old 02-05-2009, 09:08 PM   #3
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That actually looks exactly like something I want. You're just Jeep is same as mine down to interior and everything except for the sport 4.0 Ltr sticker they always have to throw down on it. I didn't think a 3 inch lift with give me that much clearance, but looks great.
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Old 02-05-2009, 09:09 PM   #4
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Total just on the lift tires and wheels what did it run you?
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Old 02-05-2009, 09:12 PM   #5
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I bought the rims used off craigslist for $300 (the guy was a Jeeper, the rims were brand new, got a hell of a deal)
the tires cost me around $800, 32 inch BFG A/T's, lift was $550 (and I bought a new Steering stabilizer for $30), also got Pro Comp shocks because they were not included in the lift
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Old 02-05-2009, 09:15 PM   #6
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Wow man it looks great and thanks for the help. I was going to go with all black wheels but those look great on your Jeep. Also my bar covers turned that purplish color a couple years ago and instead of buying new ones I went after them with a can of black all purpose spray paint and a brush and to this day they're still death black with the top down in Florida every day. Thanks bro.
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Old 02-05-2009, 09:17 PM   #7
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thanks for the info, I was trying to figure out what to do about them, the purple was pissing me off.
If you have any questions, shoot me a PM
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Old 02-05-2009, 09:29 PM   #8
Knows a couple things...

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First, it's right at about the 4" lift height where you should install a longer CV (constant velocity) driveshaft and its required partner, a SYE (slip yoke eliminator) kit. The SYE kit gives more room for a longer driveshaft which is pretty much required to eliminate the vibrations a taller suspension causes from steepened driveshaft u-joint angles.

On the lifts you mentioned, I'd recommend something besides a Rancho brand lift. They always include those UBER-stiff R5000 shocks that are better suited for a tank than a Wrangler. BDS has a better reputation than Rancho. Another good brand to think of is Rubicon Express.

I would avoid a 15x10 wheel, a 15x8 wheel is actually better for a 33x12.50 or 35x12.50 tire if you plan on airing your tires down for offroading. Pretty much anyone offroading that size tire that is experienced will stick with 15x8 wheels. Think of it this way... it takes less air pressure to hold a tire securely against two edges 8" apart than two edges that are 10" apart so the wider the wheel, the more likely the tire is to come unseated when aired down on a tough trail.

Another thought is that 3" suspension lift plus the 1" body lift combination you mentioned. That's an outstanding way to get the 4" recommended for a 33" tire that eliminates the cost of the SYE kit and longer CV driveshaft. A SYE and CV driveshaft is always a good idea for 3" and taller but you can get away without it for a 3" lift more easily than with a 4" suspension lift.

Those are a few opening thoughts before I leave my office to leave for home, I hope they help a bit.
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Old 02-06-2009, 01:09 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
First, it's right at about the 4" lift height where you should install a longer CV (constant velocity) driveshaft and its required partner, a SYE (slip yoke eliminator) kit. The SYE kit gives more room for a longer driveshaft which is pretty much required to eliminate the vibrations a taller suspension causes from steepened driveshaft u-joint angles.

On the lifts you mentioned, I'd recommend something besides a Rancho brand lift. They always include those UBER-stiff R5000 shocks that are better suited for a tank than a Wrangler. BDS has a better reputation than Rancho. Another good brand to think of is Rubicon Express.

I would avoid a 15x10 wheel, a 15x8 wheel is actually better for a 33x12.50 or 35x12.50 tire if you plan on airing your tires down for offroading. Pretty much anyone offroading that size tire that is experienced will stick with 15x8 wheels. Think of it this way... it takes less air pressure to hold a tire securely against two edges 8" apart than two edges that are 10" apart so the wider the wheel, the more likely the tire is to come unseated when aired down on a tough trail.

Another thought is that 3" suspension lift plus the 1" body lift combination you mentioned. That's an outstanding way to get the 4" recommended for a 33" tire that eliminates the cost of the SYE kit and longer CV driveshaft. A SYE and CV driveshaft is always a good idea for 3" and taller but you can get away without it for a 3" lift more easily than with a 4" suspension lift.

Those are a few opening thoughts before I leave my office to leave for home, I hope they help a bit.
i disagree
i would look into the rancho 2.5" rock crawler kit......it is very complete and can be purchased for just under 1k bucks....i ran it for 3 years and loved it plus it flexed as good, or almost as good, as my custom long arm lift i run now...the lcas are bulletproof and the stiff shocks he speaks of are what you are looking for out of an offroad performance lift kit....if you dont like the ride you can always exchange them but you cannot compete with the completeness of this kit..you wont have to go back and buy anything
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Old 02-06-2009, 04:51 PM   #10
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The stiff shocks suck for a daily driver and for the guy who drives to the trail. They are not optimum at all. If you do anything at all above 5mph they will grow tiresome quick. When your in low range and crawling you wont notice how stiff a shock is.
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Old 02-07-2009, 01:54 PM   #11
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I went with the Superlift 4 inch kit. It has a transfer case lowering kit. I didnt have to do the extended drive shaft or the SYE. I did the black steelies and agree on doing the 15X8 instead of the 10.
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Old 02-08-2009, 11:51 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fire Wrangler View Post
I went with the Superlift 4 inch kit. It has a transfer case lowering kit. I didnt have to do the extended drive shaft or the SYE. I did the black steelies and agree on doing the 15X8 instead of the 10.


Im doin round 2 on the 4" superlift kit Saturday. (1st attempt was a major FAIL!) Did you do your kit yourself? if so can you give me any heads up on snags with the kit, or anything else you had to add to it? I already got the adj trac arm and extended brake lines.

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