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Old 09-05-2013, 09:50 PM   #1
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Lift and Tires

Im looking to lift my jeep and put on some new tires with in a year. I want to do it right and get quality gear. My jeep is mostly a daily driver with some off roading, nothing too hard core, but I still want some room to flex if I get in a spot on a trail. I was hoping to go with an OME 2.5 inch lift kit and kmc 17 by 11.2 rockstar wheels with 33 inch duratrac tires. Just wondering if I am on the right track or if I should reconsider some of my choices that I am aiming to purchase. Please correct me if I am wrong and help steer me in the right direction, thanks for the input.

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Old 09-05-2013, 10:06 PM   #2
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for the 2.5" OME alone, stick with 31" tires...

33s won't fit with just the 2.5", and i certainly wouldn't recommend 17" wheels for what you want. stick with 15x8" wheels for 33x10.50-33x12.50's....

33's are fit in two common ways on TJ's:

1. 4" suspension lift, with ~2" bumpstop extensions in front and ~2.5" in the rear. Requires a SYE/CV shaft.
2. 2.5" suspension lift, with a 1.25" body lift, with ~1.25" bumpstop extensions in front and ~1.5" in the rear. The 1.25" BL usually accompanies a 1" Motor Mount Lift to offset some of the driveline angles.

Either way you go, figure on some or many of the following components: longer front brake lines, extended sway bar links front and rear, gears, brake and steering upgrades to accommodate larger tires, SYE, CV shaft, bumpstop extensions, new shocks, adjustable track bars, and a rear track bar bracket.

For reference, I run OME springs and shocks, along with some other stuff...more here.

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Old 09-06-2013, 06:16 AM   #3
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Okay cool thanks for the help.
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Old 09-06-2013, 07:45 AM   #4
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for the 2.5" OME alone, stick with 31" tires...

33s won't fit with just the 2.5", and i certainly wouldn't recommend 17" wheels for what you want. stick with 15x8" wheels for 33x10.50-33x12.50's....

33's are fit in two common ways on TJ's:

1. 4" suspension lift, with ~2" bumpstop extensions in front and ~2.5" in the rear. Requires a SYE/CV shaft.
2. 2.5" suspension lift, with a 1.25" body lift, with ~1.25" bumpstop extensions in front and ~1.5" in the rear. The 1.25" BL usually accompanies a 1" Motor Mount Lift to offset some of the driveline angles.

Either way you go, figure on some or many of the following components: longer front brake lines, extended sway bar links front and rear, gears, brake and steering upgrades to accommodate larger tires, SYE, CV shaft, bumpstop extensions, new shocks, adjustable track bars, and a rear track bar bracket.

For reference, I run OME springs and shocks, along with some other stuff...more here.
Correct on the OME 2.5" lift being good for 31's. But the rest of what you stated has some innacuracies.

A. I agree with ditching 17" rims. 15x7 or 15x8 rims are the way to go with 33's depending on which width is used.

B. 2.5" OME lift with 1" BL(Doesn't need to be 1.25", just 1" will suffice) will fit 33x10.5's(which IMO is a much better option to go with than 33x12.5's for quite a few reasons)on correct backspaced rims will fit and stuff correctly only needing OME's 20mm bumpstop extensions only. Again though close atten. needs to be done when choosing rim/tire combo(a 15x7 rim with with 4.25" BSing will fit correctly on 33x10.5" tire for this application). I know this for a fact, as I have installed this setup in the past with no rubbing issues. I believe IslandTJ has done this as well. PM him with details as well or maybe he will chime in here.

C, Rear trackbar bracket is needed(Which comes in the OME kit along with the needed rear 20mm bumpstops), but adjustable front trackbar isn't needed. Though you can get Metal Cloaks front adjustable TB which is the highest clearance aftermarket TB on the market for about $150, if you have the funds.

D. with a 2.5" lift, front extended brakelines are not needed.

In all expect about $1000 in total to fit 33x10.5's properly. $700 for the OME kit. $300 for the 1" BL/MML, and you should be good to go.
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Old 09-06-2013, 07:56 AM   #5
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Correct on the OME 2.5" lift being good for 31's. But the rest of what you stated has some innacuracies.

B. 2.5" OME lift with 1" BL(Doesn't need to be 1.25", just 1" will suffice) will fit 33x10.5's(which IMO is a much better option to go with than 33x12.5's for quite a few reasons)on correct backspaced rims will fit and stuff correctly only needing OME's 20mm bumpstop extensions only.
once again, as i told you before in another thread, OME's 20mm (0.8") bumpstop extensions are NOT enough for their shocks, you actually need 1.25" to prevent bottoming out. I verified that myself.

full bump (notice the washers added):


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D. with a 2.5" lift, front extended brakelines are not needed.
they may in fact be needed - you need to check that. that's what you do when you setup a suspension, cycle the axle and see what needs to be done.

this is a 2" BB picture from a forum member here...


this is an OME kit w/ N66 shocks, again another forum member.


Both posted flexing pics/videos to show how their rig flexed, but didn't notice the brake lines were taut.

That's why when you're setting up a suspension, you put the axle at full droop, and slowly turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock, while watching brake line length.

You may be surprised on your TJ, like my friend was with his JK:



from here: JK Lift Install & Suspension Lessons Learned - JeepForum.com
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Old 09-06-2013, 08:13 AM   #6
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Ive seen the pictures before.

A. On the OME rear shocks. Those extra spacers are not needed. I verified this myself as well. Springs and jounce bumpers pulled, axle fully stuffed with N^& shocks installed. There was about an 1/8th of an inch left before those shocks bottomed out. That's with metal to metal contact on the spring perches. Then when you add back in the jounce bumpers, the amount of force needed to fully compress them in, and take into account the shock end BUSHINGS at both sides of the shocks having play as well and compressing in on hard compression, between both bushings, right there alone gives another fraction of an inch of play...........so again, its just not going to happen. Those spacers you added in are NOT necessary at all. There are probably thousands of those kits installed on various TJ's and I haven't really seen anyone complain of clearance issues on the rear. If there actually was, don't you think OME would have provided longer bumpstop pucks?

One the front shock lines, I will agree though that the OP should check and verify how taught his lines are at full droop if at all. Because one thing I have found out is that there is some variances on the length of the stock lines from the factory through the years. Ive replaced a few stock sets that were shorter than the old stock ones I had.
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Old 09-06-2013, 08:24 AM   #7
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A. On the OME rear shocks. Those extra spacers are not needed. I verified this myself as well. Springs and jounce bumpers pulled, axle fully stuffed with N^& shocks installed. There was about an 1/8th of an inch left before those shocks bottomed out. That's with metal to metal contact on the spring perches. Then when you add back in the jounce bumpers, the amount of force needed to fully compress them in,
the jounce will fully compress into the cup. you pushing them in with your hand is a whole lot different than a 4000lbs rig pushing on them at speed.

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and take into account the shock end BUSHINGS at both sides of the shocks having play as well and compressing in on hard compression, between both bushings, right there alone gives another fraction of an inch of play...........
so you're promoting hammering on the shock bushings on a regular basis? ...really? why not save your shocks & bar pins from damage?

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don't you think OME would have provided longer bumpstop pucks?
Absolutely not. This is like asking, "don't you think company XX would have thought of that?"

Replace XX with Rough Country, Rubicon Express, Skyjacker, Procomp, JKS, etc, etc, etc.

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One the front shock lines, I will agree though that the OP should check and verify how taught his lines are at full droop if at all. Because one thing I have found out is that there is some variances on the length of the stock lines from the factory through the years. Ive replaced a few stock sets that were shorter than the old stock ones I had.
To be clear, I'm not saying the OP needs to do anything at all. I'm saying there's a lot of stuff that needs to be addressed or at least investigated - regardless of lift height. You can choose not to address certain things, or address them in a variety of ways - as long as you identify the issues and understand what's going on.
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Old 09-06-2013, 08:45 AM   #8
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the jounce will fully compress into the cup. you pushing them in with your hand is a whole lot different than a 4000lbs rig pushing on them at speed.



so you're promoting hammering on the shock bushings on a regular basis? ...really? why not save your shocks & bar pins from damage?


Absolutely not. This is like asking, "don't you think company XX would have thought of that?"

Replace XX with Rough Country, Rubicon Express, Skyjacker, Procomp, JKS, etc, etc, etc.



To be clear, I'm not saying the OP needs to do anything at all. I'm saying there's a lot of stuff that needs to be addressed or at least investigated - regardless of lift height. You can choose not to address certain things, or address them in a variety of ways - as long as you identify the issues and understand what's going on.
A. Absolutely those jounce bumpers will compress in. But not quite as much as you think. The vehicle is 4000 pounds, but the rear end doesn't support that much weight, no where near it. And even if it did, you have to factory the amount of the opposing force a pair of rear springs, a pair of shock absorbers AND the jounce bumpers combined will have in offsetting any type of downward force. You would literally have to be AIRBORN to accomplish that. But low speed crawling or typical trail riding? Not gonna happen.

B. Again read the last part of A. All those items(Jounce bumpers,springs and shock, combined with the shock bushings)......do you really think you are going to be beating on those shock ends?

C. Comparing OME engineering or standards with any other company is not valid in this discussion. This discussion focuses solely on the OME kit. Not all mfg's have the same engineering or standards. OME is one of the better ones.

D. I agree.
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Old 09-06-2013, 08:54 AM   #9
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Not gonna happen.
happening right here.


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B. Again read the last part of A. All those items(Jounce bumpers,springs and shock, combined with the shock bushings)......do you really think you are going to be beating on those shock ends?
people manage to rip shock mounts off the rear and break bar pins all the time.

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C. Comparing OME engineering or standards with any other company is not valid in this discussion. This discussion focuses solely on the OME kit. Not all mfg's have the same engineering or standards. OME is one of the better ones.
None of these companies are infallible. OME is indeed one of the better ones, which is why I recommend their stuff....but you absolutely need to question them, as you have to question ANYTHING you install. Same with Currie, Metalcloak or any other "high end" company.

Ever heard of the Currie rear control arms being too short? Ever wonder why their instructions tell you set their adjustable control arms at factory lengths for a 4" lift??
currie adjustable arms too short or bad install? - JeepForum.com

Like I said - learn, do the homework yourself, and question everything.
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Old 09-06-2013, 09:15 AM   #10
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happening right here.



people manage to rip shock mounts off the rear and break bar pins all the time.



None of these companies are infallible. OME is indeed one of the better ones, which is why I recommend their stuff....but you absolutely need to question them, as you have to question ANYTHING you install. Same with Currie, Metalcloak or any other "high end" company.

Ever heard of the Currie rear control arms being too short? Ever wonder why their instructions tell you set their adjustable control arms at factory lengths for a 4" lift??
currie adjustable arms too short or bad install? - JeepForum.com

Like I said - learn, do the homework yourself, and question everything.
A. You are showing the FRONT, not the rear. Different springs and spring ratings, different weight(more in that picture), not valid. SHow me a picture of the rear doing that.

B. Again, show me pics or links on instances specifically involving the rear OME setup(Their springs, shocks,TB relocation bracket and 20mm spacers combined) where there are cases of broken bar pins and/or lower shock mounts that have broken. And specifically in a case where it can be stated that the root cause of the issue was due to the 20mm spacers being a bit too thin.

C. I agree with you again here FULLY. No company is infallible. 100% agree with you. But you are trying to make something out of nothing, that just isn't an issue in the specific case of the rear OME setup. But lets hypothetically say there is SOME truth in your speculation that does exist........if someone was able to bottom out those jounce bumpers FULLY, to the point where there was metal on metal contact and/or putting direct force onto the shocks as a result of it and even doing damage to them, then that setup in question has much bigger issues, specifically using springs and shocks that are INCORRECT for the task at hand to begin with.

Again, those extra rear washers are not needed for the N67 shocks in the rear. This was something I verified fully and to great length. It was something I did because of my curiosity from your add on mod from a past post that you did. Found that it is 100% unnecessary running stock length on the control arms. Even more so for anyone who runs a SYE/DS kit where the pinion off the axle is rotated up resulting in the bottom shock mount rotating a bit down and away.

D. I agree 100%, and that's exactly what I did. My own homework, and my own verification, which is why I question you here and find its inaccurate.

That being said. I would love to see you post new pictures, with your rear springs and jounce bumpers removed and fully stuff the axle(shocks installed, and upper and lower control arms at stock length)fully and post up some pics. If those shocks are too long, then there will be a significant gap with no metal to metal contact. Lets see it. While your at it regardless of the outcome(which I am very confident will prove me being correct), do the same test with the springs still out, but the jounce bumpers installed(and add a TON of weight to the rear cargo area at the same time, like heavy sand/concrete bags etc)while supporting the axle on 2 jackstands.
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Old 09-06-2013, 09:23 AM   #11
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oh sweet a pissing match between the veterans. I love when this happens because us nooblets get schooled !

keep it up fellas !!!
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Old 09-06-2013, 09:25 AM   #12
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oh sweet a pissing match between the veterans. I love when this happens because us nooblets get schooled !

keep it up fellas !!!
No pissing match here, no heated discussion going on. Its always been very civil with 04' and vice versa.
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Old 09-06-2013, 09:36 AM   #13
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No pissing match here, no heated discussion going on. Its always been very civil with 04' and vice versa.
nah man, I knew that... I was just being a goof.

Carry on !
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Old 09-06-2013, 09:55 AM   #14
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nah man, I knew that... I was just being a goof.

Carry on !
Its fine man.


I just hope 04' doesn't "disappear" from this thread. Because Im going to expand even further, that if he does go back and revisit this on his own time, that after he does the testing at full stuff(both sides simultaneously), that he should again do the test stuffing one side only. Stuffing one side only gives even more clearance to the side the shock(because in REAL world situations having both sides fully stuffed with both springs, shocks and jounce bumpers fully compressed in is basically near impossible unless that rear end is free falling down literally from being airborn)is stuffed on because the axle is dropping down towards the other side that isn't stuffed.

In reality all 04' did on his setup was add a bit more limitation on his uptravel that he didn't need to do at all. Especially with those insanely stiff springs that he uses.
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Old 09-06-2013, 10:19 AM   #15
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In reality all 04' did on his setup was add a bit more limitation on his uptravel that he didn't need to do at all. Especially with those insanely stiff springs that he uses.
I added the correct amount of limitation in my setup. The shock bushings are for misalignment - I'm not interested in using the shocks or shock bushings as bumpstops. Similarly, I wouldn't recommend anyone use their shocks as bumpstops, but unfortunately for unknowning readers, you are comfortable doing so.

And those "insanely" stiff springs of mine did great this past weekend when loaded down with camping gear and a fully loaded trailer.
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Old 09-06-2013, 10:29 AM   #16
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I added the correct amount of limitation in my setup. The shock bushings are for misalignment - I'm not interested in using the shocks or shock bushings as bumpstops. Similarly, I wouldn't recommend anyone use their shocks as bumpstops, but unfortunately for unknowning readers, you are comfortable doing so.

And those "insanely" stiff springs of mine did great this past weekend when loaded down with camping gear and a fully loaded trailer.
The kit comes with the correct length extensions already. All you did was add an EXTRA amount that wasn't needed or necessary. Your now starting to bypass a lot of the points I made. I suggest on your own free time to revisit the situation if you happen to be working on the rear end of your Jeep. When you originally added those spacers in you never took into account all the points I made, instead focusing on pictures and points that had no bearing on the specific rear setup in this discussion. On top of my own points though, even the ARB/OME techs will tell you that the correct bumpstops are included and no additional washers are needed at all and a lot of the points I brought up here will be brought up again by them.

So in conclusion the rear OME bumpstops are correct and the N67 shocks will NOT act as bumpstops as you perceive.

Your intentions are great, but you are 100% wrong in this situation and have still not offered up any valid reasonable proof or basis to state otherwise.

On a side not Im sure your springs did do a good job this past weekend. I know your standard nitrochargers though didn't have much say in the matter.
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Old 09-06-2013, 11:38 AM   #17
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The kit comes with the correct length extensions already. All you did was add an EXTRA amount that wasn't needed or necessary. Your now starting to bypass a lot of the points I made. I suggest on your own free time to revisit the situation if you happen to be working on the rear end of your Jeep. When you originally added those spacers in you never took into account all the points I made, instead focusing on pictures and points that had no bearing on the specific rear setup in this discussion. On top of my own points though,
your whole argument is based around the jounce bumper not compressing into the cup fully, which is in itself an invalid point. we've gone around this circle before, theres no sense in repeating our disagreement on the subject.

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even the ARB/OME techs will tell you that the correct bumpstops are included and no additional washers are needed at all
yea, and other techs will tell you no bumpstops are needed at all with their kit, and that 1" of uptravel on their extra long shocks is perfectly normal. or that their track bar couldn't possibly hit your diff cover. or that their joints/bushings couldn't possibly cause your control arm mounts to rip off. the list goes on and on and on....

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So in conclusion the rear OME bumpstops are slightly too short and the N67 shocks will need ~1.25" bumpstop extensions (~0.5" more than OME provides) to NOT act as bumpstops.
fixed it for you.

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Your intentions are great, but you are 100% wrong in this situation and have still not offered up any valid reasonable proof or basis to state otherwise.
once again, we've gone around in this circle before, and we're talking about a 0.5" difference. You recommend people bottom out their shocks, I recommend they take a more conservative approach, and not bottom out their shocks.

the other thing is without 1.25" bumpstop extensions, that OME relocation bracket ends up hitting the underside of the tub (no body lift).

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On a side not Im sure your springs did do a good job this past weekend. I know your standard nitrochargers though didn't have much say in the matter.
Once again, you try to claim my setup has problems, yet you've never seen it, ridden in it or driven it. My setup in fact work great for me, despite what you may think. Similar to how 0.8" bumpstop extensions are not quite enough for N67 shocks, despite what you may think.
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Old 09-06-2013, 12:17 PM   #18
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your whole argument is based around the jounce bumper not compressing into the cup fully, which is in itself an invalid point. we've gone around this circle before, theres no sense in repeating our disagreement on the subject.


yea, and other techs will tell you no bumpstops are needed at all with their kit, and that 1" of uptravel on their extra long shocks is perfectly normal. or that their track bar couldn't possibly hit your diff cover. or that their joints/bushings couldn't possibly cause your control arm mounts to rip off. the list goes on and on and on....


fixed it for you.


once again, we've gone around in this circle before, and we're talking about a 0.5" difference. You recommend people bottom out their shocks, I recommend they take a more conservative approach, and not bottom out their shocks.



Once again, you try to claim my setup has problems, yet you've never seen it, ridden in it or driven it. My setup in fact work great for me, despite what you may think. Similar to how 0.8" bumpstop extensions are not quite enough for N67 shocks, despite what you may think.
A. No actually, my whole argument is NOT based around the jounce bumpers not fully compressing into the cup. That's just a side point that augments my points if anything. Yes I remember where you used a table mounted VICE GRIP to fully compress ONE SINGLE jounce bumper in. Any intelligent individual here will see that for what its worth.

B. Fair enough in respect to the techs there, but again, this was something that my own physical findings backed up. And again, your still missing MULTIPLE POINTS made.

C. No actually, not fixed, again, post the correct pictures(pictures actually showing the REAR axle at full stuff with no springs, no jounce bumpers featuring N67 shocks, not the FRONT axle as you did. To add the one correct REAR pic you did show, was incomplete as in no shock shown installed, and the axle itself wasn't even centered correctly on the bumpstops....which makes me think the control arms were in fact not at factory length settings as you would find on a typical install) showing the findings. Not gonna happen.

Conservative approach is fine, Im for it, but in this case it isn't needed, its already set up correctly.

D. Yes your right we have gone around in this circle before, and again you have yet to post any legitimate facts or proof stating in any way shape or form that I am flat out wrong. I'm not. Ive done the full test already. On 2 different rigs in fact. There is no clearance issue requiring extra washers installed. Simple as that. And I will be positing pictures up within the month backing that up too, and I will make sure all scenarios are included in those pics so there will be no arguments in any form whatsoever. And I will expect you to post back with an apology on your error to me too.

E. I made the remark I did, because you basically went about everything backwards to get to the same point. And you most likely made a significant compromise doing it as well.

You mentioned the 2942 springs were too soft, which is why you made the change due to bottoming out issues. That's fine, I don't doubt you were having bottoming problems. But that was due to the fact that your using a weak twintube shock that's a few years in age and that quite frankly isn't up to the task of heavy loads and towing. Everything you stated points to that. For what you do the Nitrocharger is a cr@p shock to be using. Its barely adequate enough to control HD 2942 springs, let alone the 2949's you use now.

My LJ is without question heavier than yours. Especially in the rear end. When I load up and go camping, I use the receiver hitch basket as well and most likely put more weight on the tongue than your small trailer does. Plus I have the added weight of a heavy bumper, heavy spare, EXOGATE, DOM tubing safari rack and basket, heavy rear fenders/flares etc etc. I run the 2942 springs you found to be lacking. The big difference here is I use a HD high pressure gas charged monotube shock that's able to keep the rear from sagging and from bottoming out, especially with heavy loads. Your using a light duty tiny twin tube shock that's not meant for what your doing. So what you did to compensate, was go up to a much heavier spring since your shocks just can't augment your springs to keep the load and body under control, when in fact all you had to do was get a better shock. And I know how heavy those 2949's are. I used mine for a few weeks. They are stiff, brutally so when unloaded. It was like riding on a wheeled pogo stick with em without an extra 500 pounds in the back end.

Im sure your setup works just fine for YOU. But I already know how it rides, and to me its not a great ride at all, or a great way to set up the suspension. I can guarantee you that the difference in ride quality between our 2 rigs is a night and day difference.

I assume this video link here is your ride as it sits currently. I can tell you right now, that the ride is extremely rough compared to mine. The roads your corssing over at the lows speed you are just confirm what I would find if I was there riding shotgun to you. That ride is extremely stiff and unforgiving. The vibrations, shocks etc from the road imperfections are transmitting significantly into the body of your vehicle. That radar detector is bouncing up and down all over the place. Your bodypanels, interior plastic panels etc have alot of flex and vibrations thats visual. On coarse dirt roads like that my Jeep's axles allow my body to float over that stuff. I actually have the same(or similiar) fuzz buster that you have. It would be completely still in that video. To me thats a big F'n difference.

Your video:

SaintsJohn - YouTube


BTW: Trip looks like it was a blast. What state is that in exactly? I would actually love to go there and check it out in person, and may very well do so next summer.
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Old 09-06-2013, 12:52 PM   #19
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A. No actually, my whole argument is NOT based around the jounce bumpers not fully compressing into the cup. That's just a side point that augments my points if anything. Yes I remember where you used a table mounted VICE GRIP to fully compress ONE SINGLE jounce bumper in. Any intelligent individual here will see that for what its worth.
I'm sure they will accept it as it was intended - an example that the jounce bumper will in fact completely compress into the cup.

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B. Fair enough in respect to the techs there, but again, this was something that my own physical findings backed up. And again, your still missing MULTIPLE POINTS made.
like where you stated the shock bushings are compressing because you didn't install enough bumpstop extension?

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Conservative approach is fine, Im for it, but in this case it isn't needed, its already set up correctly.
see above.

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Ive done the full test already. On 2 different rigs in fact.
once again, I've demonstrated my point with pictures...but you have not.

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There is no clearance issue requiring extra washers installed.
you don't have to use washers...you can use whatever you want as long as it adds up to ~1.25"

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You mentioned the 2942 springs were too soft, which is why you made the change due to bottoming out issues.
I know for a fact that I have not. In this case you're actually fabricating lies.

I replaced 933s with 934s, in front. Don't believe me? Go check my build thread....so that whole essay about 942s vs 949s is pretty much useless.

Now, think about this - you said OME's engineering skills are so good that they have included the correct bumpstop extensions, unlike loads of other companies out there. But then in the next sentence, you say they didn't properly engineer their shock/spring combination? One would think their shocks are designed to work with their springs, considering they do come together in a kit? Another example of your own backwards, self serving thinking.

As I told you before, I'm definitely open to the possibility that there are better shocks out there than OME N66/N67's. I've ridden in & driven a Jeep with the high dollar Fox shocks, fully outboarded, spring perch relocation, etc. That Jeep's owner also rode in & drove my Jeep. The ride wasn't very different, and for now I'm quite happy with what I've got. In fact, the other Jeep's owner seemed surprised at the lack of difference.
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Old 09-06-2013, 01:21 PM   #20
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I'm sure they will accept it as it was intended - an example that the jounce bumper will in fact completely compress into the cup.


like where you stated the shock bushings are compressing because you didn't install enough bumpstop extension?


see above.


once again, I've demonstrated my point with pictures...but you have not.


you don't have to use washers...you can use whatever you want as long as it adds up to ~1.25"


I know for a fact that I have not. In this case you're actually fabricating lies.

I replaced 933s with 934s, in front. Don't believe me? Go check my build thread....so that whole essay about 942s vs 949s is pretty much useless.

Now, think about this - you said OME's engineering skills are so good that they have included the correct bumpstop extensions, unlike loads of other companies out there. But then in the next sentence, you say they didn't properly engineer their shock/spring combination? One would think their shocks are designed to work with their springs, considering they do come together in a kit? Another example of your own backwards, self serving thinking.

As I told you before, I'm definitely open to the possibility that there are better shocks out there than OME N66/N67's. I've ridden in & driven a Jeep with the high dollar Fox shocks, fully outboarded, spring perch relocation, etc. That Jeep's owner also rode in & drove my Jeep. The ride wasn't very different, and for now I'm quite happy with what I've got. In fact, the other Jeep's owner seemed surprised at the lack of difference.
This post has alot of hogwash. What your doing here is picking out specific parts of my statements, and not taking them in their entirely or in full context. Just a heads up. Its kinda cheesy.

A. I know a jounce bumper can be fully compressed into its cup, especially when your using a VICE GRIP to do it. But how far will it actually go in, under real world conditions with the aide of a shock and spring? Now how about both sets of springs, shocks and jounce bumpers? Again, your taking things out of context and fuzzing the big picture.

B. No, again your taking things out of the context of their meaning and intentions. Im now expecting it at this point from you.

C. "See above".........again.

D. You havent posted any pictures of meaning. The front axle is not under scruitiny here. The rear axle picture shows an axle not correctly centered on the bumpstop, no shock installed.

Now show a full picture with a shock installed on acurrectly centered axle, without the washers. Show us the gap due to the shocks being too long. You haven't done that. You haven't shown anything thats proves me findings wrong. All you did was show one picture of a close up of a fe washers installed on a poorly centered jounce cup.

E. No you don't. You need .75" under stock conditions as per intended from OME.

F. You havent used 2942's? I could have sworn you mentioned trying them with bottoming issues. I do know you made mention of the fronts being switched. I will look back on that..............

As for me stating OME's engineers are great......you are now posturing and exxagerating a comment I made. But I never said that they didnt properly engineer their shock/spring combos. They ballparked em decently, but its not a be all end all guideline. You just didn't implement them correctly in YOUR CASE. 2942 and 2949's are recommended to be run with their SPORT "monotubishlike" shocks. They dont recommend the standard nitrocharger shocks for their stiffer springs at all. Especially not 2949's. And they certainly did not mention how well a worn used nitrocharger shock will work on said springs.

All fox shocks are not tuned the same. Mine are not. Outboarding them etc isnt going to change ride quality either.
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Old 09-06-2013, 02:10 PM   #21
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And to add.....fox shocks or any other quality shock wont guarentee a great ride either......they need to be valved and matched up properly with the springs used.....vehicles weight requirements etc etc.......so the swap you did there has no hard info on type of wrangler its weight....springs used etc etc.......what i do know is that most jeeps arent set up to their full potential......most are set up poorly in retrospect.
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Old 09-06-2013, 04:06 PM   #22
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Lol......not a dick swingin contest here.......far from it. Nothing more than lively debate that i will end at the end of the month with plenty of detailed pics featuring 4 ome parts......everyone can benefit from the info.
hahahaa ! Honestly I for one am truly absorbing all that is in this thread. It was getting buried and I wanted to bump it up.


Can't wait to see the pics, and uhm line me up for your old " junk "

I'll even come get it.


Please !
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Old 09-06-2013, 05:11 PM   #23
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This post has alot of hogwash.
it's a whole lot less hogwash than the bullshit you're feeding the newbs.

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Its kinda cheesy.
about the same amount of cheesy as your whole argument has been on this subject since long before this thread.

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A. I know a jounce bumper can be fully compressed into its cup, especially when your using a VICE GRIP to do it. But how far will it actually go in, under real world conditions with the aide of a shock and spring?
the same exact amount - demonstrated to you multiple times, including once in this thread. you just continue to choose to ignore common sense.

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Now how about both sets of springs, shocks and jounce bumpers? Again, your taking things out of context and fuzzing the big picture.

B. No, again your taking things out of the context of their meaning and intentions. Im now expecting it at this point from you.

C. "See above".........again.
here's some cheesy hogwash if I ever seen any.

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D. You havent posted any pictures of meaning.
they're only of zero meaning to you specifically, because you have chosen it that way and refuse to understand facts.

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Now show a full picture with a shock installed on acurrectly centered axle, without the washers. Show us the gap due to the shocks being too long. You haven't done that. You haven't shown anything thats proves me findings wrong. All you did was show one picture of a close up of a fe washers installed on a poorly centered jounce cup.
I'm not going to take my entire rear suspension apart because you're too ignorant to use common sense.

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E. No you don't. You need .75" under stock conditions as per intended from OME.
OME intended N66/N67's to be perfectly good shocks for their springs, yet you keep picking a beef with that.

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F. You havent used 2942's?
more cheesy hogwash.

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They ballparked em decently, but its not a be all end all guideline.
yea, kinda like they did with their bumpstop extensions. 0.8" is better than nothing, but it's not quite 1.25" either.

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You just didn't implement them correctly in YOUR CASE.
well in OME's opinion, when I talked to ARB USA, I in fact did implement them correctly.

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2942 and 2949's are recommended to be run with their SPORT "monotubishlike" shocks. They dont recommend the standard nitrocharger shocks for their stiffer springs at all. Especially not 2949's. And they certainly did not mention how well a worn used nitrocharger shock will work on said springs.
well ARB/OME told me different. who am i supposed to trust, your cheesy hogwash opinions, or the guys that engineered them?
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Old 09-06-2013, 06:04 PM   #24
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This discussion is progressing only toward insults.
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Old 09-06-2013, 07:02 PM   #25
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what's really funny is we've already gone around this circle more than once, yet for some reason he feels the need to totally disrupt this poor poster's thread with hogwash that should be discussed elsewhere. The OP doesn't learn anything, is more confused, and the answers to his original questions are lost.
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Old 09-06-2013, 07:39 PM   #26
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The OP doesn't learn anything, is more confused, and the answers to his original questions are lost.
You forgot one thing...

If this bickering continues the thread gets shut down. and then the OP really is up a certain creek without a paddle. At the moment, this thread has gone beyond a intelligent debate, and it is not to continue that way.
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Old 09-06-2013, 07:41 PM   #27
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Funny how the OP came for lift advice and got all the info on shocks he ever needed. No wonder he hasn't returned. Good job on destroying yet another thread.
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Old 09-06-2013, 09:43 PM   #28
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No Im still here just trying to read through everything and find what works best so I can make an informed purchase when I go to lift my lj.
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Old 09-06-2013, 09:55 PM   #29
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No Im still here just trying to read through everything and find what works best so I can make an informed purchase when I go to lift my lj.
Excellent. Thoughts/plans so far? Still want the 33s?
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Old 09-06-2013, 10:01 PM   #30
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for the 2.5" OME alone, stick with 31" tires...

33s won't fit with just the 2.5", and i certainly wouldn't recommend 17" wheels for what you want. stick with 15x8" wheels for 33x10.50-33x12.50's....

33's are fit in two common ways on TJ's:

1. 4" suspension lift, with ~2" bumpstop extensions in front and ~2.5" in the rear. Requires a SYE/CV shaft.
2. 2.5" suspension lift, with a 1.25" body lift, with ~1.25" bumpstop extensions in front and ~1.5" in the rear. The 1.25" BL usually accompanies a 1" Motor Mount Lift to offset some of the driveline angles.

Either way you go, figure on some or many of the following components: longer front brake lines, extended sway bar links front and rear, gears, brake and steering upgrades to accommodate larger tires, SYE, CV shaft, bumpstop extensions, new shocks, adjustable track bars, and a rear track bar bracket.

For reference, I run OME springs and shocks, along with some other stuff...more here.
You also need to put in there, 3" suspension lift. Running 3" suspension with 33s and still have a little room...

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