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Old 08-28-2012, 06:04 PM   #1
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Lift Install Continues...stuck...again.

Any ideas on how to get the rear track bar bolt out that stripped? Been soaking in PB blaster for 3 days. Went at it a few mins ago and blam...stripped it. Thing is frozen solid, didn't even flinch.


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Old 08-28-2012, 07:12 PM   #2
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I'm sooooo glad I live in Colorado where that doesn't happen to our vehicles. I can't remember how much room is there, but can you drill it out?

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Old 08-28-2012, 07:17 PM   #3
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I'm not sure how much room you have to work with, but a Dremmel with a cutoff wheel could work. Cut a single slot in the head of the bolt, insert a flat-head screwdriver and go to town. Did you try torching it?
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:19 PM   #4
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Torch it then hammer and chisel is an option too. You'd be amazed at what heating it up will do. Just remember not to touch it, that bitch will be hot lol.
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:22 PM   #5
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are you spraying the head of the bolt with PB, or the flag nut on the backside?

also, you can grab it with a pair of channel locks or locking pliers...and use a pipe if you need more leverage.

also are you doing this with the axle hanging? or at ride height? ride height would be best....
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:47 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasongind
you'd be amazed at what heating it up will do. Just remember not to touch it, that bitch will be hot lol.
lol...
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:49 PM   #7
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Oh man, I feel your pain.
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:49 PM   #8
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Grind the head off
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:53 PM   #9
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Thanks for the suggestions.

Not much room at all with the gas tank in the way (don't want to drop it If I don't have too). Been soaking every nook and cranny of it...is completely saturated.

Been looking at it and I'm not sure I can get a drill in there. Space is really tight.

Haven't tried torching it yet, but it did cross my mind. Torch plus the dremel slot MIGHT work but I dunno....that thing is fronzen as far as I can tell.

Had a torx + rachet + long pipe which is what stripped it. Can't get a grip on it with channel lock pliers...not enough to really turn it. The axel is hanging but its jacked up around ride height. The other end of the bar (pass side) is disconnected...thought that might relieve some tension to help it out....nope.

If I torch it will it melt the rubber bushing in the track bar? I have a feeling I'm going to need a new track bar once this is over......
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:57 PM   #10
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Grind the head off
Another idea I was thinking as well. I don't own an angle grinder, but its looking like I probably should.
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:23 PM   #11
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Weld a hex nut onto the head. Works beautifully
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:35 PM   #12
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take a brush wheel to it (you can get a grinder and a wheel at harbor frieght for less than $50), weld a large nut to it, then take a boxed end wrench to it
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:03 PM   #13
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Weld a hex nut onto the head. Works beautifully
This is what I would suggest.
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:54 PM   #14
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Sawz all and a new metal blade.mabey a few blades should fix the no room issue. Cut both sides of the bolt off and use a center punch to knock the bolt out.

I have a feeling that there is a lot of tension on the bolt....ad o be careful when u get the bolt out...mabey the bar is bent...
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Old 08-28-2012, 10:34 PM   #15
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I don't know how to weld...wish I did though.

Shouldn't be any tension on the bar itself. I disconnected the passengers side as well.

Probably gonna get a Harbor Freight angle grinder tomorrow and grind the head off and just punch the bolt out. Seems like the easiest / cheapest solution. Appreciate the help from everyone.
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Old 08-28-2012, 11:56 PM   #16
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fwiw it looks in the picture that you likely used a torx bit one size too small its pretty easy to do with those, as the proper size usually fits in pretty darn tight, and sometimes doesnt fit at all if its corroded. I know this doesnt help much now, but just something to think about for any future work you do on the jeep, since those darn things are everywhere
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Old 08-29-2012, 12:12 AM   #17
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fwiw it looks in the picture that you likely used a torx bit one size too small its pretty easy to do with those, as the proper size usually fits in pretty darn tight, and sometimes doesnt fit at all if its corroded. I know this doesnt help much now, but just something to think about for any future work you do on the jeep, since those darn things are everywhere
When I was replacing my trackbar I had give the T55 I believe a light tap with a hammer :/
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:31 AM   #18
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fwiw it looks in the picture that you likely used a torx bit one size too small its pretty easy to do with those, as the proper size usually fits in pretty darn tight, and sometimes doesnt fit at all if its corroded. I know this doesnt help much now, but just something to think about for any future work you do on the jeep, since those darn things are everywhere
Yeah thought that was probably the case after it happened. Tried the size up but I couldn't get it to fit. Probably should have tried to hammer it in, which I'll do on the others from now on.

Anyone know the bolt size off the top of their head?
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Old 08-29-2012, 07:06 AM   #19
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For future reference.....PB Blaster hardly does anything worthwhile, especially if you're just spraying it where it doesn't matter (the bolt is frozen to the nut so that's where you need to blast). When you encounter this again, give it a nice, long shot of heat prior to messing with it. You want the bolt to increase in size help break the rust between it and the nut then once it shrinks down, that should help. Doing this several times with a few shots of Kroil (great penetrating fluid) in between works well.
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Old 08-29-2012, 08:15 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by umake View Post
I don't know how to weld...wish I did though.

Shouldn't be any tension on the bar itself. I disconnected the passengers side as well.

Probably gonna get a Harbor Freight angle grinder tomorrow and grind the head off and just punch the bolt out. Seems like the easiest / cheapest solution. Appreciate the help from everyone.
Be careful with the grinder sparks and the gas tank. I know the gas is inside the tank, but just sayin. I prefer a sawzall for area like that....less/no sparks.

That bolt head takes a T55. It is not likely you have a T60 socket in your set, so it sounds like you used the T50 (one of the reasons it stripped), and tried the T55.
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:38 AM   #21
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Grinding the head off and banging the bolt out should work.

What you could also try is to hammer in a T55, see if it still grips.

Here's what space there is..

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Old 08-29-2012, 10:50 AM   #22
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i used kroil
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:53 AM   #23
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Kroil is good but the best way to get any rusted shut fastener out is heat up the nut with a torch and stick a candle on it. It will draw the wax down into the threads and you will be able to back it right off.
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Old 08-29-2012, 11:20 AM   #24
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Kroil is good but the best way to get any rusted shut fastener out is heat up the nut with a torch and stick a candle on it. It will draw the wax down into the threads and you will be able to back it right off.
Ill have to try this next time i have a rusty bolt...
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:50 PM   #25
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Sparks are flying, half the bolt is grinded down. It looks like the back of bolt head is actually rusted to the track bar housing.

Starting to wonder if there will be enough room to bang the bolt out through the back though....?
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Old 08-29-2012, 09:11 PM   #26
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Once both sides r cut off it shouldn't take to much to hit it out.....but then again....lol
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Old 08-29-2012, 09:25 PM   #27
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Once both sides r cut off it shouldn't take to much to hit it out.....but then again....lol
Seems to be my luck
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Old 09-01-2012, 05:53 PM   #28
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Its out....finally

Here's what I did so someone else might benefit from this cause I was stumped for a while.

I grinded the head off with an angle grinder till it was flat (went into the bracket a bit while grinding the head off, not a big deal...just took the rust off really). Next I drilled a hole 1/2 way through the bolt (stepped up from small to medium drill bit sizes). Then I disconnected the upper control arm and punched it out with a hammer and standard phillips head screw driver bending the nut tab to push the bolt out of the back (toward the engine). It wasn't the cleanest way, but it worked none the less and its done.
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Old 09-01-2012, 06:15 PM   #29
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OEM replacement bar is in the mail, Old Man Emu relocation bracket is gonna get installed tomorrow. Almost there. Thanks for the help everyone. Appreciated.

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