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Old 10-31-2006, 03:25 PM   #1
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Lift Kit

'06 TJ.

Daily Driver and some Dunes. I'd like to put 33x12.50's on. What brand and model lift kits do you recommend?

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Old 10-31-2006, 03:29 PM   #2
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What kind of a budget did you have in mind?

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Old 10-31-2006, 04:47 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by MR.CLIFFORD
What kind of a budget did you have in mind?
I haven't put a number to that yet. I've looked at the RE kits and they run from 900 to 2600. But it looks to the untrained eye like the $2600 version (the Extreme) may not be as friendly on pavement, although pretty good for rock crawling. (I don't know, though)

So I guess I'm trying to determine the differences in the various lifts so I can start forming a budget. I'll do what I think is best, a higher price will just push the date back.
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Old 10-31-2006, 08:18 PM   #4
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Do a lot of searches and looking around...Lot of people have different opinions. I myself am getting the Rubicon Express standard lift. Fits my needs. I hear the Rough Country and 4WD kits are good as well
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Old 10-31-2006, 09:07 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcdcpakmbs
I haven't put a number to that yet. I've looked at the RE kits and they run from 900 to 2600. But it looks to the untrained eye like the $2600 version (the Extreme) may not be as friendly on pavement, although pretty good for rock crawling. (I don't know, though)

So I guess I'm trying to determine the differences in the various lifts so I can start forming a budget. I'll do what I think is best, a higher price will just push the date back.
if anything that more expensive version would be BETTER on the road. that kit HAS to be a long arm for it to cost that much....which means you'll get a much better ride and it will do way better offroad and you'll get a lot more flex. the longarms are usually a full new suspension system that are hardcore and super good offroad. yet they do great on road. if anything it will be better on the road then stock. you probably don't NEED a long arm though
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Old 11-01-2006, 09:54 AM   #6
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Interesting. One guy told me that the long-arm kit would be squirley on pavement.

How much lift would be necessary to facilitate 33x12.50's?
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Old 11-01-2006, 10:32 AM   #7
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4 inches would clear 33's fine.

nah long arm would be better. once you get to high then a short arm wouldn't be good and the arms would be too short and it won't ride near as good as a long arm. long arm is gonna compensate for the lift. its better on the road then a short arm. its not bad. the arms are now a better length to make up for the lifting it and it makes it much more stable. more flex, better ride, more stability. if anything its more stable
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Old 11-01-2006, 01:04 PM   #8
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Thanks. That makes sense. Do you have a brand / model recommendation for a lift given what I've told you here?
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Old 11-01-2006, 02:59 PM   #9
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if you got the cash then long arms rock! like i said it will be so stable and ride good and do very good offroad with a lot of flex. another good thing is that you can upgrade it and go bigger for larger tires if you ever wanna go bigger. what i mean by that is you can upgrade from a 4" longarm to a 6" longarm if you wanted to without having to get ALL new parts. you just get a few different parts and you can upgrade to the 6".
but you may not need a long arm. or you may not have the cash. i've heard a lot of good things about the rough country lift. quite a few people run it. its very complete and it has a very good price tag. as for long arms i see most people running rubicon express or full traction and most of them seem to be pretty happy with them
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Old 11-01-2006, 05:38 PM   #10
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Lots of kits to pick from. I have run rubicon express 4.5" short arms on two my jeeps, the other had a Rusty's off road 3" kit. The long arm kits are nice, but they do charge an arm and a leg for them. a 3-4" kit will be fine for the 33's. Which ever kit you decide on, get a complete kit. What I mean by that is, 4 springs, 8 control arms, all adjustable if you can, front and rear track bars, sway bar disco's etc etc. Also the type of shocks you run can make a big difference. As for the short arm vs long arm debate, both good and bad points. Also don't forget about $$ for an SYE kit and rear drive shaft if you get a taller lift.
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Old 11-01-2006, 06:28 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Jeepn
Lots of kits to pick from. I have run rubicon express 4.5" short arms on two my jeeps, the other had a Rusty's off road 3" kit. The long arm kits are nice, but they do charge an arm and a leg for them. a 3-4" kit will be fine for the 33's. Which ever kit you decide on, get a complete kit. What I mean by that is, 4 springs, 8 control arms, all adjustable if you can, front and rear track bars, sway bar disco's etc etc. Also the type of shocks you run can make a big difference. As for the short arm vs long arm debate, both good and bad points. Also don't forget about $$ for an SYE kit and rear drive shaft if you get a taller lift.
Great advice and I'll add that I suggest you drive/ride in a Jeep with long arms, if you have the opportunity, before investing that kind of money. Frank's rides like a slinky IMO, which I don't care for.
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Old 11-02-2006, 10:15 AM   #12
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Great advice and I'll add that I suggest you drive/ride in a Jeep with long arms, if you have the opportunity, before investing that kind of money. Frank's rides like a slinky IMO, which I don't care for.
I'm gleaning that the Rubicon Express RE7000 would be a decent decision. That's a 4.5" short arm kit that can be "upgraded" to a long-arm later if so desired. I'd have to add a Slip-Yoke Eliminator and a CV Drive Shaft Kit when installed.

To avoid creating another thread:

With the 33's is the 3.73 trak-loc OK, or should I go to a 4.10 or 4.56. (Dana 35, 6-speed manual.)

Sorry to ask so many questions, but it appears you need a plan and a time-line so you don't spend a lot of good money after bad. I already did that. Didn't know I'd be better off getting the D44 to start with.
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Old 11-02-2006, 11:07 AM   #13
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of course 4.10 or 4.56 would be better but 3.73's won't be bad. i run 3.07's with 32's and its fine. i know 1BLKJP runs 3.73's with 35's and he has no problems.

by the way, i think going over 4 inches its better off getting a long arm cause to make it more stable. arms get to short when going over 4 inches but its whatever you want. if you get too high without the new arms then they will be too steep and the ride won't be great
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Old 11-02-2006, 01:11 PM   #14
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of course 4.10 or 4.56 would be better but 3.73's won't be bad. i run 3.07's with 32's and its fine. i know 1BLKJP runs 3.73's with 35's and he has no problems.

by the way, i think going over 4 inches its better off getting a long arm cause to make it more stable. arms get to short when going over 4 inches but its whatever you want. if you get too high without the new arms then they will be too steep and the ride won't be great

Ok. More food for thought. I appreciate everybody's input so far. I'll have to check on the installation challenges presented by the long arm kit. It's about $1200 more, but I don't know about the install. Thanks. Guess I'll leave the 3.73 alone for a while.
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Old 11-02-2006, 06:47 PM   #15
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The RE 4.5"short arm is a very nice kit and rides just fine on the highway.. remember its a jeep not a Lexus. Below is mine with 4.5 springs rear and 4.5 springs plus a 2" spacer front, sitting on 35's. The 3.73's are fine with 33's. The real cost in the long arm is the install unless you can do it yourself. They have to cut the lower frame mounts off, grind them down and go from there plus some exhaust routing as I recall and a few other little tings. Thus more time and money to do it.

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Old 11-02-2006, 08:48 PM   #16
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4jeepn is right. a lot of longarms require cutting. you have to cut the control arm mounts off because the new longer arms will be mounted into a new sub frame (at least for some long arms. not sure about all of them) and you won't use the stock ones any more. and some require welding too
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Old 11-03-2006, 08:40 AM   #17
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Thanks guys, you've been a lot of help.

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