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Old 10-11-2013, 07:07 PM   #211
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Originally Posted by NJO View Post
Which is fine.......you want rake anyway. At abot 2" lift in front just thread heim in as far as it will go on MC tb and you should be centered nearly perfectly.
I had to nip off about 1/2" of the threaded end on the MC trackbar to center my axle with 2" SL. After nipping I screwed it all the way in and threw away the locknut.... which is useless anyway since the trackbar cannot spin. Axle is now centered. Trackbar functions well now but required this modification for only 2" SL.
In short: From the factory their TB is about 1" too long for a 2" SL (but can be modified easily enough)... I'm betting it was designed for lifts 3" and up.

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Old 10-11-2013, 07:30 PM   #212
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I had to nip off about 1/2" of the threaded end on the MC trackbar to center my axle with 2" SL. After nipping I screwed it all the way in and threw away the locknut.... which is useless anyway since the trackbar cannot spin. Axle is now centered. Trackbar functions well now but required this modification for only 2" SL.
In short: From the factory their TB is about 1" too long for a 2" SL (but can be modified easily enough)... I'm betting it was designed for lifts 3" and up.
I'd rather not chop anything off in case I up the lift in the future

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Old 10-11-2013, 07:36 PM   #213
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I'd rather not chop anything off in case I up the lift in the future
Plenty of thread left for a 3" or higher lift. Can also purchase that part of the TB separately from them if I ever really needed it but my Jeep will never see more than 3" of SL. There's more than enough thread left for that.
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Old 10-11-2013, 08:07 PM   #214
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I had to nip off about 1/2" of the threaded end on the MC trackbar to center my axle with 2" SL. After nipping I screwed it all the way in and threw away the locknut.... which is useless anyway since the trackbar cannot spin. Axle is now centered. Trackbar functions well now but required this modification for only 2" SL.
In short: From the factory their TB is about 1" too long for a 2" SL (but can be modified easily enough)... I'm betting it was designed for lifts 3" and up.
Um.....tossing the locknut away? I wouldnt have done that...........plus now you have threads that can wallow out.........your threads arent supposed to be floating whether or not it cant unthread.......also if your saying that at 2" lift the tb is 1" too long then your basically saing that at 3.5 " lift the tb would still be too long by about a half inch roughy. For every inch raised you get a quarter inch shift in axle. The MC tb or at least my mc tb is basically a half inch longer than stock fully threaded in with locknut.
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Old 10-11-2013, 10:35 PM   #215
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Um.....tossing the locknut away? I wouldnt have done that...........plus now you have threads that can wallow out.........your threads arent supposed to be floating whether or not it cant unthread.......also if your saying that at 2" lift the tb is 1" too long then your basically saing that at 3.5 " lift the tb would still be too long by about a half inch roughy. For every inch raised you get a quarter inch shift in axle. The MC tb or at least my mc tb is basically a half inch longer than stock fully threaded in with locknut.
The axle side went in like a dream. Did you have to drill out the frame side hole?
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Old 10-11-2013, 10:54 PM   #216
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Um.....tossing the locknut away? I wouldnt have done that...........plus now you have threads that can wallow out.........your threads arent supposed to be floating whether or not it cant unthread.
"floating"? hardly... and I highly doubt the threads will wallow out since I'm using every millimeter of thread but you're entitled to your opinion, if they wallow out I'll be the first to let you know. Not likely.
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Old 10-12-2013, 09:40 AM   #217
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"floating"? hardly... and I highly doubt the threads will wallow out since I'm using every millimeter of thread but you're entitled to your opinion, if they wallow out I'll be the first to let you know. Not likely.
The thing is these are machined threads......anything you can thread by hand imo should be locked in i would think. Same goes for adjustable control arms......even if you set the length to shortest length they cant readjust themselves out but you still need to use the locknut. What did MC state about their thoughts on this? Id like to hear more opinions......
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Old 10-12-2013, 09:41 AM   #218
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The axle side went in like a dream. Did you have to drill out the frame side hole?
Yes i think per instructions......half inch axle side.....5/8th frame side.
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Old 10-12-2013, 10:00 AM   #219
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The thing is these are machined threads......anything you can thread by hand imo should be locked in i would think. Same goes for adjustable control arms......even if you set the length to shortest length they cant readjust themselves out but you still need to use the locknut. What did MC state about their thoughts on this? Id like to hear more opinions......
I understand what you're saying and don't disagree.
In my case the threads are screwed all the way into the TB (taut). I left no exposed threads to accommodate the locknut (when I nipped) because I wanted to remove a minimal amount of thread to center my axle. If you unscrew it and add a locknut the trackbar is slightly too long for a 2" SL. I bet if I had a 2.5" SL it would work with the locknut... but it would be screwed all the way in.
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Old 10-12-2013, 10:09 AM   #220
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I understand what you're saying and don't disagree.
In my case the threads are screwed all the way into the TB (taut). I left no exposed threads to accommodate the locknut (when I nipped) because I wanted to remove a minimal amount of thread to center my axle. If you unscrew it and add a locknut the trackbar is slightly too long for a 2" SL. I bet if I had a 2.5" SL it would work with the locknut... but it would be screwed all the way in.
Ok. This is the second time there is hostility in this thread this is a happy place. Woosah... woosah...
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Old 10-12-2013, 10:11 AM   #221
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I understand what you're saying and don't disagree.
In my case the threads are screwed all the way into the TB (taut). I left no exposed threads to accommodate the locknut (when I nipped) because I wanted to remove a minimal amount of thread to center my axle. If you unscrew it and add a locknut the trackbar is slightly too long for a 2" SL. I bet if I had a 2.5" SL it would work with the locknut... but it would be screwed all the way in.
Do me a favor......can you measure your front mc tb eye to eye? When i installed mine on 2-2.25" lift i didnt have to cut it at all to get axle cemtered......but i am threaded in all the way with heim/locknut......
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Old 10-12-2013, 10:15 AM   #222
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Ok. This is the second time there is hostility in this thread this is a happy place. Woosah... woosah...
Absolutely no hostility. I have nothing but respect for NJO and have learned much from him in many threads. He's more advanced than me in the tech category... I'm getting there.
Any disagreements between us within this thread have been addressed in a civil manner. Apologies if anything appeared hostile from me.
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Old 10-12-2013, 10:17 AM   #223
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Do me a favor......can you measure your front mc tb eye to eye?
Yes, I'll do that for sure and let you know. Give me a little bit... it's currently 19 degrees out with a little snow on the ground up hya.
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Old 10-12-2013, 10:20 AM   #224
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Absolutely no hostility. I have nothing but respect for NHO and have learned much from him in many threads.
Any disagreements between us within this thread have been addressed in a civil manner.
Im cool with everyone No arguments here......just skeptical on running without a locknut.....which is why Id love to hear more thoughts on it.
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Old 10-12-2013, 10:21 AM   #225
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Absolutely no hostility. I have nothing but respect for NHO and have learned much from him in many threads.
Any disagreements between us within this thread have been addressed in a civil manner.
I know, referring to the absolute @$$ hole that a moderator had to edit earlier on here I like civil, civil is good
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Old 10-12-2013, 10:25 AM   #226
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Im cool with everyone No arguments here......just skeptical on running without a locknut.....which is why Id love to hear more thoughts on it.
My take on it: If metalcloak felt the lock nut was not necessary, they would not have included it. Obviously a lot of engineering went into this track bar if it is one of tree only ones on the market that can clear the diff with NO rub at full bump... I wouldn't mess with their design. Also warranty voided if they get it back with NO lock nut or see stripped threads...
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Old 10-12-2013, 10:29 AM   #227
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My take on it: If metalcloak felt the lock nut was not necessary, they would not have included it. Obviously a lot of engineering went into this track bar if it is one of tree only ones on the market that can clear the diff with NO rub at full bump... I wouldn't mess with their design. Also warranty voided if they get it back with NO lock nut or see stripped threads...
Its my feeling too but if GM was able to cut it down exactly so that the heim end was properly torqued down perpendicular to the axle bushing end then i dont see a problem.......i just dont see how he was able to preload it to that position without using say a washer/shim stack......unless thats what he did........
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Old 10-12-2013, 10:35 AM   #228
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Im cool with everyone No arguments here......just skeptical on running without a locknut.....which is why Id love to hear more thoughts on it.
If I had any thread left to use the locknut, I would. The threads are bottomed out within the TB rod. She needed to go all the way in and I had to cut about 1/2" of thread from the male end to make that happen.
IMHO.... MC should state in their product description - "engineered for Jeeps with 2.5" or higher SL". Maybe they did somewhere and I missed it, I don't know. It would definitely be too long for someone who's stock but there's nothing stated about that either.
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Old 10-12-2013, 10:46 AM   #229
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Its my feeling too but if GM was able to cut it down exactly so that the heim end was properly torqued down perpendicular to the axle bushing end then i dont see a problem.......i just dont see how he was able to preload it to that position without using say a washer/shim stack
It's in position and taut, call me lucky. There was no torque specification listed by MC that I am aware of. No instructions or specs were included with my TB purchase. Product specs listed online but no downloadable instructions available for it.
I still gave it a 4 out of 5 star review on their site. I didn't even complain about it being too long for a 2" SL. My only complaints were "wrong hardware sent" which has happened to others as well.
You can scroll down to my review (Winter Park) here: http://www.metalcloak.com/TJ-LJ-Jeep...Bar-p/7035.htm
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Old 10-12-2013, 11:17 AM   #230
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IMHO.... MC should state in their product description - "engineered for Jeeps with 2.5" or higher SL". Maybe they did somewhere and I missed it, I don't know. It would definitely be too long for someone who's stock but there's nothing stated about that either.
I thought about that too, but I don't think it would be entirely accurate.

Will at MC told me that that at roughly 2" the stock TB is too short and offsets the axle by about half the 3 quarters of an inch to the driver's side. Which I find pretty accurate. When using the MC TB at that same lift its supposed to offset the TB by about a half inch to the passengers side.

This is what he told me. Now right after he told me that I asked him while I was placing my order if he could send me the shortest TB he had in stock because I assumed there were small variances between them due to an issue I found with their CA's having small variances from arm to arm. He told me they were all identical. But when I got mine in, with 2.25-2.5" of lift up front Im centered properly with no visual offset at all using the jounce bumpers/pads as reference. Which was whyIm curious what your current setup is eye to eye. You said you cut down the threads on the heim joint half inch roughly........did you cut down the TB itself too?
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Old 10-12-2013, 11:27 AM   #231
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I cut the threads from the spherical joint so that it would screw all the way into the bar, otherwise it would bottom out inside of the bar with about 1/2" of unused thread exposed along with the locknut.
Nothing else was modified or altered other than shortening the spherical joint and omitting the locknut.
I'll get that eye-to-eye measurement shortly... up to 29 degrees now.
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Old 10-12-2013, 11:44 AM   #232
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I cut the threads from the spherical joint so that it would screw all the way into the bar, otherwise it would bottom out inside of the bar with about 1/2" of unused thread exposed along with the locknut.
Nothing else was modified or altered other than shortening the spherical joint and omitting the locknut.
I'll get that eye-to-eye measurement shortly... up to 29 degrees now.
Im surprised you didnt just tap the female end an extra half inch.
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Old 10-12-2013, 11:48 AM   #233
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Im surprised you didnt just tap the female end an extra half inch.
I didn't even consider that because this is a solid trackbar...... that would hypothetically require drilling deeper into the solid bar in addition to tapping which would compromise the existing female threads.
Eye-to-eye measurement (center to center) is 31".
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Old 10-12-2013, 12:01 PM   #234
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I thought about that too, but I don't think it would be entirely accurate.
I don't think it needs to be "entirely accurate".
JKS and other adjustable TB manufacturers generally state "recommended for Jeeps with 0" - 2" or 2" - 3" of lift", etc.
MC has no general disclaimer to that effect in regard to their adjustable front TB. They should. It's not a 'one size fits all' product with infinite adjustment.
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Old 10-12-2013, 01:05 PM   #235
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I didn't even consider that because this is a solid trackbar...... that would hypothetically require drilling deeper into the solid bar in addition to tapping which would compromise the existing female threads.
Eye-to-eye measurement (center to center) is 31".
Its solid.....but do the threads end at the drill depth?
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Old 10-12-2013, 02:38 PM   #236
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Its solid.....but do the threads end at the drill depth?
no idea but I imagine so since the curvature of the bar starts shortly thereafter
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Old 10-12-2013, 02:43 PM   #237
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... I shouldn't even have to be thinking about this. They market this TB as a "true bolt on"... it is not. Drilling required on both OEM brackets to fit their bolts and needless to say more tinkering if you're only running a 2" lift. They could at least include instructions or installation tips, nothing... and I shouldn't be required to call them.
Some of Metalcloak's products just aren't quite ready for prime time. I think this is obvious. Maybe they hit the ground running a little fast with this company. I'm happy with it but in hindsight maybe I should have just held onto the JKS.
Now leaning heavily toward Currie for my future TJ related suspension investments. I'll give Metalcloak's company a few years to grow up.
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Old 10-12-2013, 03:09 PM   #238
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... I shouldn't even have to be thinking about this. They market this TB as a "true bolt on"... it is not. Drilling required on both OEM brackets to fit their bolts and needless to say more tinkering if you're only running a 2" lift. They could at least include instructions or installation tips, nothing... and I shouldn't be required to call them.
Some of Metalcloak's products just aren't quite ready for prime time. I think this is obvious. Maybe they hit the ground running a little fast with this company. I'm happy with it but in hindsight maybe I should have just held onto the JKS.
Now leaning heavily toward Currie for my future TJ related suspension investments.
Well .......you do BOLT it on......directions for tb bracket are on MCs site. I dont think spending 5 minutes to drill out some larger holes is a big deal......still would have to do it for the other TB's as well........and then deal with poor clearance and bumpstopping.
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Old 10-12-2013, 03:24 PM   #239
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well .......you do bolt it on......directions for tb bracket are on mcs site. I dont think spending 5 minutes to drill out some larger holes is a big deal......still would have to do it for the other tb's as well........and then deal with poor clearance and bumpstopping.
+1
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Old 10-12-2013, 03:31 PM   #240
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...directions for tb bracket are on MCs site.
Please, please.... provide a link for this. I cannot find these particular directions on their site.
Product Description states: "Tools Required - Ratchet Set, Wrench Set, Lift or... Jack w/ Jack Stands."
Doesn't even mention anything about needing a drill or specific bit sizes.
I had no problem drilling, I'm sure you didn't either... might surprise others. Would be kinda nice to know what size bits to buy... or for someone who's never installed an aftermarket TB.
They have a few bugs to work out, lets face it. Awesome products but they have a few bugs to work out.

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