Lift kits - Page 3 - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ General Discussion Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 08-02-2013, 02:24 PM   #61
NJO
Jeeper
 
NJO's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 1,388
Quote:
Originally Posted by ktx_jeeper View Post
I'm going to have to agree here. I'm not at all a fan of body lifts cause i think they look horrible, ad im not at all a fan of putting plastic pucks on my coils to lift it more, maybe level it out, but not to rely on lift. I'm currently sitting on a 4 inch lift that was on the jeep when i bought it. If i didnt get such a good deal, i wouldnt have bought it but i did. Needless to say the guy is a moron because he lifted it 4 inches then dropped the tcase 2, so its kind of pointless. But im in the process of fixing that. I Can flex perfectly fine and i get really nice travel with my 4 inches. The bumpstops hit and leave me with about half an inch of room between the top of the fender and the wheel and my 12.50s clear the curve of the fender really well. I'm very happy with the lift as i put currie coils and bilstiens in replace of the pro comp crap that was on it. But back to topic, I would rather spend the money on a 4 then have to mess with a combo lift knowing that if installed correctly, I could have a little more travel both ways. But thats my opinion. Im not at all saying that a smaller combo lift isnt as effective because they are, personally i would prefer 4 inches to a combo.
I felt the same way about body lifts about 3-4 years ago. Didn't like them for a few reasons, one being raised COG and the other being looks. I see ALOT of wranglers around my neck of the woods on stupid looking 3" plus body lifts.......real redneck builds.

But a small 1" BL I became a fan of. First off in terms of looks, most people can't even tell your on a BL, except for those who know what to look for. But the benefits for having a small 1" BL are NUMEROUS.

A. You now have access to the entire frame rail and some hard to get at bolts. This is important for cleaning, maintenance and repair. Rust prevention and repair especially. Having access to specific parts of the frame is especially nice for doing spot touchup work.
B. Overall lower COG with a 2" SL lift PLUS a 1" BL vs. just a 3" SL. You keep the COG a bit lower due to the frame sitting lower when you combine a smaller SL with a BL to get the same.
C. Tummy tuck: You can tuck up your TC assembly tighter up into the frame when you run a small BL" The weak link on the TJ/LJ is the break over angle. 1" BL means a better potential break over angle giving you an extra inch of clearance underneath. Another side benefit is using a gas tank skid with an extra inch of clearance underneath. Another nice side benefit is doing a 1" MML too.....doing both together means everything remains factory stock in alignment basically.
D. Rear shock length capability. That's right, with a 1" BL you can utilize a longer compressed length/longer travel out back without the need for added BUMPSTOPPING. You can do this via the bolt in Teraflex bracket, or easily DIY(And actually gain about 1.75" on shock sizing. I run 10" travel shocks in the back and use only 20mm of added bump stopping(due to spring bind length). That means you can use a long travel shock with a 14"-14.75" compressed length using stock shock mounting locations. Doesn't that get some of you thinking?
E. Less suspension lift needed. The less suspension lift you need, the better your suspension/drivetrain geometry stays intact. Simple as that. When you get past about 2.5" of suspension lift the short arm geometry starts to suffer significantly. Keep your arms as flat to the road surface as you can. Besides, when with just 2 to 2.5" of lift, with a little care and planning you can effectively run 10-12" travel shocks with 50/50 up/down travel both front and back. I have more suspension travel on my OME 2" springs than most people do sporting 4" springs or more.

So doing a small 1" BL IMO is all gravy. There are no downsides to it at all, including "looks".

NJO is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-02-2013, 02:24 PM   #62
Jeeper
 
Imped's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Indy
Posts: 3,269
Quote:
Originally Posted by 530ktm View Post
You are correct. But at the same time if I had another 1/2 inch of lift I would not have rubbed and also would not limit my wheel travel by adding additional bump stops. Is this not a true statement? I changed out the springs in the rear recently and gained that 1/2 inch or so and I had no rubbing at all this last weekend out in the rocks.
So you raise the frame up away from the axle 1/2". Do your upper bump stops not also raise up by the same 1/2"?

You've gained nothing. You will still hit at the exact same point. It'll just take more coil compression to get to that point.

On a different subject, NJO's post above is right on. I believe I've also gone into detail with a similar list in the past.

__________________
Daily Driver Rock Rig
IndyORV
Imped is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-02-2013, 02:36 PM   #63
NJO
Jeeper
 
NJO's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 1,388
Quote:
Originally Posted by 530ktm View Post
You are correct. But at the same time if I had another 1/2 inch of lift I would not have rubbed and also would not limit my wheel travel by adding additional bump stops. Is this not a true statement? I changed out the springs in the rear recently and gained that 1/2 inch or so and I had no rubbing at all this last weekend out in the rocks.
Adding bumpstops will not limit wheel travel in TOTAL. They will only limit uptravel.

But this is where careful PLANNING comes into play......like shock size for example. So say you would have had to add an additional 1" bumpstop to keep the tires from kissing the fenders. You could have now taken into account that added 1" and just picked up a shock with a compressed length that matches up with the added needed bumpstop on top of the minimal shock #'s needed and actually gained some DOWNTRAVEL without having to add any additional lift, or hurt the suspension geometry numbers. And most likely when you went to a taller suspension lift, you still had to add additional bump stopping anyway.

So basically you went about things @ss backwards in a way and didn't really accomplish anything beneficial for your rigs abilities. Your bump stopping should match up with not just your tire to fender clearance, but for the protection and design limitations of the other major components(shocks,springs,trackbar etc)that are involved in the axle cycle.
NJO is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-02-2013, 02:37 PM   #64
Jeeper
 
530ktm's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 3,703
Images: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
So you raise the frame up away from the axle 1/2". Do your upper bump stops not also raise up by the same 1/2"?

You've gained nothing. You will still hit at the exact same point. It'll just take more coil compression to get to that point.

On a different subject, NJO's post above is right on. I believe I've also gone into detail with a similar list in the past.
All I did was put in the heavy duty OME springs and got rid of the light load version which did raise the back of the Jeep up a good inch. Perhaps they had sagged a bit over the last couple of years. I like the way it performs better than before.
530ktm is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-02-2013, 02:42 PM   #65
Jeeper
 
Imped's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Indy
Posts: 3,269
Quote:
Originally Posted by 530ktm View Post
All I did was put in the heavy duty OME springs and got rid of the light load version which did raise the back of the Jeep up a good inch. Perhaps they had sagged a bit over the last couple of years. I like the way it performs better than before.
OK, I'm glad to hear that. But I don't think you grasped what I just said. The net change in your bump stop position did not change relative to your coil and shock mounts. Does that make sense? The position at which your axle hits full bump has not changed and since it wasn't correct before, it's not now. Ride height is the only thing that changed. Quit focusing on ride height and look at full bump, that's what matters.
__________________
Daily Driver Rock Rig
IndyORV
Imped is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-02-2013, 02:44 PM   #66
NJO
Jeeper
 
NJO's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 1,388
Quote:
Originally Posted by 530ktm View Post
All I did was put in the heavy duty OME springs and got rid of the light load version which did raise the back of the Jeep up a good inch. Perhaps they had sagged a bit over the last couple of years. I like the way it performs better than before.
Springs really don't "sag"........not as much as you are led to believe. If the front or rear end started to sag over time, most times its due to a shock wearing out, slowly losing its charge. If your running OME nitrochargers, you will experience this sooner than later. They are basically no better than what came on the Jeep from the factory. Just a longer travel twin tube version. They just don't last and are best kept for light duty use for rigs that are mostly DDs.
NJO is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-02-2013, 02:51 PM   #67
NJO
Jeeper
 
NJO's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 1,388
Quote:
Originally Posted by 530ktm View Post
All I did was put in the heavy duty OME springs and got rid of the light load version which did raise the back of the Jeep up a good inch. Perhaps they had sagged a bit over the last couple of years. I like the way it performs better than before.
What IMPED is trying to say is even if you toss on larger springs, but the bumpstop length remains the same(along with the shocks compressed length, which we both assume kept with the same shock), then you aren't solving the problem. The wheels will still rub the fenders.


BUT, what might be happening with you is that your new coils bind length are actually fully compressing BEFORE your bump stops do and thus acting like an extended bump stop thus keeping your tires out of the fenders but that is BAD too, because now your going to damage and wear out your coils over time from potentially binding them. Your bump stops need to properly match up with your shocks compressed length and your springs bind point. And the bumpstops should bottom out FIRST before your springs bind or your shocks reach their full compressed length.

I highly doubt this is the case on your rig. You need to take out the tape measure and do tinkerin on your rig to see what you find.
NJO is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-02-2013, 02:57 PM   #68
Jeeper
 
530ktm's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 3,703
Images: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
OK, I'm glad to hear that. But I don't think you grasped what I just said. The net change in your bump stop position did not change relative to your coil and shock mounts. Does that make sense? The position at which your axle hits full bump has not changed and since it wasn't correct before, it's not now. Ride height is the only thing that changed. Quit focusing on ride height and look at full bump, that's what matters.
I understand what you are saying here. I purchased the OME kit and put in everything it came with and then some other items. I even put in some 1 inch bumps in the front as it did not come with them, only the rear. I basically have the OME Deluxe kit which for some reason did not come with the stops in front. I like the way it rides and works on the trails.
530ktm is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-02-2013, 02:58 PM   #69
Jeeper
 
530ktm's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 3,703
Images: 3
I am curious, do you think after all this the OP has ever even come back and looked at all this?
530ktm is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-02-2013, 03:05 PM   #70
Jeeper
 
Imped's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Indy
Posts: 3,269
Quote:
Originally Posted by 530ktm View Post
I understand what you are saying here. I purchased the OME kit and put in everything it came with and then some other items. I even put in some 1 inch bumps in the front as it did not come with them, only the rear. I basically have the OME Deluxe kit which for some reason did not come with the stops in front. I like the way it rides and works on the trails.
We're going around in circles. I don't care what you have or where you got it from or why you seem to think it's correct just because some "pro" packaged together the kit for you and shipped it. Is it correct? That's the question. If your tires are hitting your fenders, the bump stops are not correct. Are you bump stops bottoming out before anything else makes contact, interferes, or bottoms out?

You're assuming everything is correct and it doesn't seem like that's the case. In order to prove or disprove that claim, you actually need to do some legwork and have an iota of understanding.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 530ktm View Post
I am curious, do you think after all this the OP has ever even come back and looked at all this?
I don't know and I don't really care. For all I know, he could be hiding in the shadows absorbing this information, which is a positive.

You make it sound like there has been a chaotic war going on in here......this has been nothing more than a technical discussion between (supposed) adults. What's the big deal?
__________________
Daily Driver Rock Rig
IndyORV
Imped is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-02-2013, 03:06 PM   #71
Jeeper
 
MFsoftball22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 433
Quote:
Originally Posted by 530ktm View Post
I am curious, do you think after all this the OP has ever even come back and looked at all this?
LOL I thought about that myself. If he hasn't he should. There was a little pissing going on at first but there is still a lot of good information on here.

Alright Imped on to the next topic LONG ARMS
MFsoftball22 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-02-2013, 03:22 PM   #72
Jeeper
 
530ktm's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 3,703
Images: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
We're going around in circles. I don't care what you have or where you got it from or why you seem to think it's correct just because some "pro" packaged together the kit for you and shipped it. Is it correct? That's the question. If your tires are hitting your fenders, the bump stops are not correct. Are you bump stops bottoming out before anything else makes contact, interferes, or bottoms out?

You're assuming everything is correct and it doesn't seem like that's the case. In order to prove or disprove that claim, you actually need to do some legwork and have an iota of understanding.

I don't know and I don't really care. For all I know, he could be hiding in the shadows absorbing this information, which is a positive.

You make it sound like there has been a chaotic war going on in here......this has been nothing more than a technical discussion between (supposed) adults. What's the big deal?
You are not the easiest person to get along with that is for sure. I never assumed anything, I do have an iota of a lot of things, my tires do not rub on anything and my Jeep works great. I simply posted up what I had done to my Jeep and yet you still somehow like to belittle everything I say. And no there is no chaotic war going on as you imply, just a couple of people that absolutely can not get along. Have a great day.
530ktm is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-02-2013, 04:25 PM   #73
Jeeper
 
ktx_jeeper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 165
Quote:
I felt the same way about body lifts about 3-4 years ago. Didn't like them for a few reasons, one being raised COG and the other being looks. I see ALOT of wranglers around my neck of the woods on stupid looking 3" plus body lifts.......real redneck builds.

But a small 1" BL I became a fan of. First off in terms of looks, most people can't even tell your on a BL, except for those who know what to look for. But the benefits for having a small 1" BL are NUMEROUS.

A. You now have access to the entire frame rail and some hard to get at bolts. This is important for cleaning, maintenance and repair. Rust prevention and repair especially. Having access to specific parts of the frame is especially nice for doing spot touchup work.
B. Overall lower COG with a 2" SL lift PLUS a 1" BL vs. just a 3" SL. You keep the COG a bit lower due to the frame sitting lower when you combine a smaller SL with a BL to get the same.
C. Tummy tuck: You can tuck up your TC assembly tighter up into the frame when you run a small BL" The weak link on the TJ/LJ is the break over angle. 1" BL means a better potential break over angle giving you an extra inch of clearance underneath. Another side benefit is using a gas tank skid with an extra inch of clearance underneath. Another nice side benefit is doing a 1" MML too.....doing both together means everything remains factory stock in alignment basically.
D. Rear shock length capability. That's right, with a 1" BL you can utilize a longer compressed length/longer travel out back without the need for added BUMPSTOPPING. You can do this via the bolt in Teraflex bracket, or easily DIY(And actually gain about 1.75" on shock sizing. I run 10" travel shocks in the back and use only 20mm of added bump stopping(due to spring bind length). That means you can use a long travel shock with a 14"-14.75" compressed length using stock shock mounting locations. Doesn't that get some of you thinking?
E. Less suspension lift needed. The less suspension lift you need, the better your suspension/drivetrain geometry stays intact. Simple as that. When you get past about 2.5" of suspension lift the short arm geometry starts to suffer significantly. Keep your arms as flat to the road surface as you can. Besides, when with just 2 to 2.5" of lift, with a little care and planning you can effectively run 10-12" travel shocks with 50/50 up/down travel both front and back. I have more suspension travel on my OME 2" springs than most people do sporting 4" springs or more.

So doing a small 1" BL IMO is all gravy. There are no downsides to it at all, including "looks".
Yes, you brought all very good points to the table and I agree, I just have a bad taste in my mouth for the same reasons you do, jeeps with 3 inches or worse ive seen a 2 and 3 stacked. You have a lot of good info there and i agree.
ktx_jeeper is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-02-2013, 04:43 PM   #74
Jeeper
 
Imped's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Indy
Posts: 3,269
Quote:
Originally Posted by 530ktm View Post
You are not the easiest person to get along with that is for sure. I never assumed anything, I do have an iota of a lot of things, my tires do not rub on anything and my Jeep works great. I simply posted up what I had done to my Jeep and yet you still somehow like to belittle everything I say. And no there is no chaotic war going on as you imply, just a couple of people that absolutely can not get along. Have a great day.
My thoughts on you haven't changed, either. Have a splendid evening.
__________________
Daily Driver Rock Rig
IndyORV
Imped is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-02-2013, 09:37 PM   #75
Jeeper
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 305
So, what have we learned here?

We've learned that there is more than one way to skin a cat, and there is more than one type of cat to be skinned. We've also learned that small body lifts have their benefits, but everyone seems to agree that large body lifts are ugly as hell. Oh, and bump stops will solve most all other problems.

Have we covered which brand of lift is best?
__________________
American by the grace of God,
Conservative through the power of intellect.
Flashole is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-02-2013, 11:01 PM   #76
Jeeper
 
OmniscientHiers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Florence, AZ
Posts: 464
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashole View Post
Have we covered which brand of lift is best?
+

Quote:
Originally Posted by MFsoftball22 View Post
Alright Imped on to the next topic LONG ARMS
=
OmniscientHiers is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-02-2013, 11:18 PM   #77
Jeeper
 
NCJeepin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Connelly Springs, North Carolina
Posts: 3,780
This has actually been one of the most entertaining, informative threads I've read in a while. Lots of good info in here. Carry on!
__________________
When in doubt, power out!
NCJeepin is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-03-2013, 02:26 AM   #78
Jeeper
 
DavidW954's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 242
I'll dip a cautious toe into this thread!

I'm running 2" Rubicon Express Budget Boost, with their Monoshocks and Bumpstops front and rear, and Crown 6" fender flares. 33x12.50 on 8" rims fit fine and I can't make them rub. The shocks and bumpstop extensions are the same as supplied in the RE 3.5" kit. It's not an optimal setup as I've not gained any total travel but it works for me. Next upgrade will be to swap the pucks for proper 2" springs, either OME or Teraflex I think, but I'll keep my bumpstops and shocks.
DavidW954 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-03-2013, 02:36 AM   #79
Jeeper
 
Jeeplover1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 15,399
I took off my 2" pucks ( for sale) and put on a 4" RR short arm
__________________
Im a Vet and bled for my beliefs and was willing to die for them, what have you done for yours?
Jeeplover1 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 10-10-2013, 11:25 PM   #80
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: California
Posts: 60
you dont need a lift to fit 33"s in fact you actually need to lower it. just pull out the coils and saw off about 3 inches. this will allow for better arrow dynamics and will make you go faster. this will also grant you the opportunity to have to drive sideways over speed bumps and hold up traffic along the way.

__________________
I'd rather push a Jeep than drive a Chevy
oaky1717 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



logo carid shop wrangler parts carid fender flares custom wheels store avs deflectors at carid

» Network Links
»Jeep Parts
» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:34 AM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC