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Old 03-10-2006, 12:18 PM   #1
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Lift Options

Here is the age old question. I am looking to lift my 05 X Rocky Mountain. I have been looking at 4" kits and some 3.5" kits. Now everwhere I go I seem to get different information. Some say SYE and new shaft, some say it is not needed. I want to get a decent amount of lift without spend too much money. I am not really using this for off road purposes, mainly just to enahnce the look.

So basically I am wondering what would be the simplest and cheapest way to do this job right. I want to go up about 4" and put some 33s on there. Any suggestions on a kit, preferably something complete. I have seen a few kits on ebay that run about 500-600 and the sellers I have contacted say the kits are complete. Are there a good choice, or would I be wasting money.

I have been looking at Rubicon Express, the 3.5 kit, but this one does not come with shocks and cost alomst 900. I also saw a budget boost setup.. Now is this setup worth the money. I have seen these cheap and I am sure the install would not cost too much.

I was also thinking about maybe getting the budget boost at 2 inches and then maybe a 2 inch body lift to fit those tires in there...

Any direction would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 03-10-2006, 01:31 PM   #2
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I just put a lift on my 01 Sport. I got it off of e-bay it is a black mountian 4in. lift ( made by rough country actually)came to 507.97 or something. Took about 11hrs. to install with the help off my friend. (first time. looking for the correct tools took the most time though.) It rides good and I didn't need a sye but plan on getting one anyways. I have no driveshaft vibes or deathwobble so all in on I'm pretty happy. Only complaint is it didn't have the brake line extension brackets, but the company said they'll ship them right out. here is some before and after pics.


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Old 03-10-2006, 01:32 PM   #3
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4" is the height where most agree that a SYE kit and CV driveshaft is strongly recommended. Those who say they're not needed are most often shops who try to low-ball the cost of their kits. The OE driveshaft's length becomes too short at that height which means it could be pulled right off the t-case splined slip-joint in the right offroad conditions.

And that height steepens the rear driveshaft angles enough that it takes both a deep t-case drop (lowering kit) and usually 1" taller motor mounts to reduce the angles enough so the vibrations go away.

In other words, 4" of suspension lift is where things start getting expensive. What I always recommend in these situations is a 3" suspension lift with a 1" body lift which is a good compromise. It gives the same overall tire clearance without the expense of the SYE kit and CV driveshaft being required.
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Old 03-10-2006, 01:33 PM   #4
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I run 4" currie coils with just a t-case drop... trust me.... get the SYE. I wish I could afford one but I'll have to wait a bit. Mine hasn't had problems pulling out even though my setup is pretty flexy for a shortarm; but the vibes are outright obnoxious.
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Old 03-10-2006, 02:12 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by JeepCrawler98
the vibes are outright obnoxious.
You cannot just live with drivetrain vibrations, they will definitely damage the seals and/or bearings in either the t-case or axle before long. I'd do something asap to get rid of those vibes... either more t-case drop or a set of 1" taller motor mounts. But both might be required to completely get rid of the vibes.
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Old 03-10-2006, 02:35 PM   #6
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what about going with a 2" budget boost and a 2" body lift... i am shooting to get those 33s under there.. but i want to keep the price down.. mainly because i only want this for looks.. if i decide to go off-road then one day i can change up my suspension.

The reason i say 2" budget boost and then the body lift, is that i think it would cost less for the shop to install the budget boost than a 3" lift...

Also, what do ppl think about a 3" body lift... I am not that familiar with body lifts and in general i have tried to avoid them... but i would like to do all this without having to get into ordering a SYE and a new driveshaft..
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Old 03-10-2006, 02:44 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homerjay4242
The reason i say 2" budget boost and then the body lift, is that i think it would cost less for the shop to install the budget boost than a 3" lift...
The labor to install 3" springs is the same to install 2" spacers on top of those springs.
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Old 03-10-2006, 03:03 PM   #8
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again not to sound retarded... but i can just change the springs and the shocks to get an additional 3" w/o having to change anything else... do you know a place that has a good 3" kit..

I think this might be the perfect option for me.. i can run 3" up, go with 32 x 11.50 tires and then try to fit them on a decent rim, or maybe the stock rim with a 1" spacer.. i have 30 x 9.5 now...
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Old 03-10-2006, 03:07 PM   #9
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No, you need to adjust the pinion angle of the rear driveshaft..
If you're lucky a 1" transfercase-drop will do the trick.
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Old 03-10-2006, 03:08 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
The labor to install 3" springs is the same to install 2" spacers on top of those springs.
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Old 03-10-2006, 03:10 PM   #11
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so i would need the 3" kit and a transfer case drop of 1" to avoid vibration... does anyone know of a decent 3" kit... i would love to go with 4" but i do not want to spend all the additional money on the SYE and a new driveshaft..
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Old 03-10-2006, 03:19 PM   #12
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A 3" lift will still produce vibrations but they will be easier to eliminate and you won't absolutely need a SYE kit and CV driveshaft.
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Old 03-10-2006, 04:51 PM   #13
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The best option for you IMHO, would be to look into an Old Man Emu suspension system. It will lift your truck about 2.5" and give you room for 32" tires, while giving you an improved road ride. If you are looking to spend less money than that, I would look into doing some 2" lift with a 1" body lift to clear your 32" tires. And as stated above, your labor will be the same to install spacers as new springs. Good luck with your search for the "perfect" setup! We have all been looking for that forever! The worst part is, yours will be different than the guy down the street. So go with what your heart (and wallet) tells you, and let us know how it works out!
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Old 03-10-2006, 05:49 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
You cannot just live with drivetrain vibrations, they will definitely damage the seals and/or bearings in either the t-case or axle before long. I'd do something asap to get rid of those vibes... either more t-case drop or a set of 1" taller motor mounts. But both might be required to completely get rid of the vibes.
I know I'm really not too concerned about it - bearings are still ok for now, I check the whole rig from top to bottom especially in those departments about once a month (running this setup for about 1.5 years) and I don't plan on holding onto my 231's tailshaft and the Dana 35 pinion shaft much longer I'm just cool like that lol
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Old 03-10-2006, 06:01 PM   #15
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right now i have 30 inch tires on my X.. so if i put a 2" budget boost i should be able to get 32s on there.. My question is, how hard is the install for the budget boost kit... it is spacers and shocks... is this easier than putting on a full 4" kit...

i am not sure if i would do this myself.. or have a shop do it.. but i am trying to figure out what it is going to cost me for the install..

i saw a mice pic just before of a jeep with a 2" RE budget boost and 32s... i like the look.. it is more aggressive than stock and it is not so far over the top that i will need more mods to the jeep... plus i should fair better on gas with 32s.. and that will help since this is my daily driver...
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Old 03-10-2006, 06:11 PM   #16
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A 'full' 4" lift kit will have new track bars, control arms, brake lines, sway bar disconnects probably, etc. - is it harder? nah. If you can do a BB you can do a full lift 'kit. Is a 4" full kit more involved? yeah.

If you want a write up on my BB install when I still had it check out the article I wrote:

http://www.4x4tj.com/articles.php?id=2
or here: http://jeeparticle.com/content/view/16/46/
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Old 03-13-2006, 01:04 PM   #17
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So I am in the UK and have just purchased a left hooker wrangler TJ. It already had a 3" black diamond suspension lift, and I do not notice any vibration but the seals on the front and back diff are leaking oil just where the prop is connected. Is this because of the lift or just bad luck?
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Old 05-21-2007, 01:18 PM   #18
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Old 05-21-2007, 06:16 PM   #19
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Old 05-21-2007, 06:44 PM   #20
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get the 3" full traction kit. It's a good price and comes with a new front track bar.
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flowmaster40,hpd30 with aussie locker,currie upper joints,4.88's, lca skids,chromo shafts,vanco brakes,d35 with super 35 and arb locker,re 4.5" springs,currie arms,re front uppers,Re shocks in back,walkerevens shocks up front, Re track bars with currie jj joints,anti rock,ss brake lines,re rear sway bar links,jks 1.25" bl and mml,bfg 35x12.5 km2's,craiger soft 8's,ome steering stabilizer,currie hd steering,rockmen front bumper,emp tank skid,lots more too.
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Old 05-21-2007, 08:01 PM   #21
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get the 3" full traction kit. It's a good price and comes with a new front track bar.
FYI this thread was started over a year ago. It was recently resurected by a now :BANNED: spammer.
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Old 05-21-2007, 08:05 PM   #22
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dumb scammers. Sorry didn't look at the date.
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99 sahara
4.0/np231/ax15/d30/d35
flowmaster40,hpd30 with aussie locker,currie upper joints,4.88's, lca skids,chromo shafts,vanco brakes,d35 with super 35 and arb locker,re 4.5" springs,currie arms,re front uppers,Re shocks in back,walkerevens shocks up front, Re track bars with currie jj joints,anti rock,ss brake lines,re rear sway bar links,jks 1.25" bl and mml,bfg 35x12.5 km2's,craiger soft 8's,ome steering stabilizer,currie hd steering,rockmen front bumper,emp tank skid,lots more too.
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Old 05-21-2007, 08:14 PM   #23
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whops that same person again

sheesh you think he would give up
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Old 05-21-2007, 08:38 PM   #24
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He did give up (sorta )

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